南宁荷韵翻译公司

                  作者：苏静  单位：广西农业职业技术大学人文与艺术学院

制作白芽奇兰茶的工艺相当精湛，制优率特高。 The craftsmanship of making White Bud Qilan tea is quite exquisite, and the rate of making excellence is particularly high.

白芽奇兰茶以烘焙为主，将铁观音的制作方法合二为一，包括凉青、晒青、摇青、杀青、揉捻、初烘、初包揉、复烘、复包揉、足干等步骤。 White Bud Qilan tea is mainly baked, combining the production methods of Tieguanyin into one, including the steps of cool green, sunshine green, shaking green, killing green, kneading, initial baking, initial wrapping and kneading, re-baking, re-wrapping and kneading, and foot-drying.

这样制作的白芽奇兰茶才饱含多种维生素和稀有元素，有提神益思、解酒消滞、降压减肥、消烦解暑、生津活血、延年益寿等功效。 The White Bud Qilan Tea made in this way is full of many vitamins and rare elements, and has the effect of refreshing the mind, relieving alcohol and stagnation, lowering blood pressure and weight loss, relieving summer heat, generating fluids and blood, and prolonging life.

经过数道工艺之后，白芽奇兰茶外形坚实匀称，叶片深绿油润，叶底红绿相映，成为青茶中真正的极品。 After several processes, White Bud Qilan tea has a solid and well-proportioned shape, dark green and oily leaves, and red and green leaf bottoms, making it a truly superb product among green teas.

白芽奇兰茶的出现也是一个偶然。 The appearance of White Bud Qilan tea was also a coincidence.

明代成化年间，福建人陈元和游走到崎岭彭溪水井边，发现一株茶树，枝稠叶茂，芽梢为白绿色，叶片青翠欲滴，散发茶香，气味似兰，清沁心脾，采其芯叶精心炒焙，茶清香浓郁，冲泡后香气徐发，飘散兰花的芬芳，抿上一口，满口清香，片刻清甘醇爽，精神舒畅，筋骨轻松。 During the Ming Dynasty Chenghua, Fujian Chen Yuanhe wandered to the wells of Saki Ling Pengxi, found a tea tree, thick branches and leaves, buds for the white-green, green leaves, emitting tea, smell like orchids, refreshing the spleen, picking its core leaves carefully fried and roasted tea, tea fragrance and rich, after brewing the aroma of Xu Fa, wafting the fragrance of the orchid, sip on a mouthful of fragrance, a moment of Qing Ganol Sharp, the spirit of relaxation, relaxing the muscles and bones.

后来，人们用乌龙茶种与之嫁接，培育成现在的白芽奇兰茶。 Later, people used oolong tea seeds to graft with it and cultivated it into the present White Bud Qilan tea.

用林语堂的喝茶妙论来品味白芽奇兰茶、铁观音、武夷岩茶，我们可以发现：铁观音香气高飘，武夷岩茶香气浓郁，白芽奇兰茶淡雅清香，带着兰花味。 Using Lin Yutang's wonderful theory of tea drinking to savor White Bud Qilan Tea, Iron Goddess of Mercy and Wuyi Rock Tea, we can find that: Iron Goddess of Mercy has a high floating aroma, Wuyi Rock Tea has a strong aroma, and White Bud Qilan Tea is light and fragrant with an orchid flavor.

论口感，白芽奇兰茶滑顺，清纯飘逸，回甘明显，集香甘浓爽于一身，叶底柔软肥厚，叶缘稍透点红，耐冲泡，喝完后觉得小泉涌上喉咙，久久不能退去；铁观音稍带苦涩涨口，柔润舒张，回味时才能感觉其真味；武夷岩茶轻柔润滑，茶水甘甜回味，有越喝越甜的感觉。 On the palate, white bud Qilan tea smooth, pure and elegant, back to the sweet obvious, set of sweet and strong in one, the leaf bottom is soft and plump, the leaf edge slightly through the point of red, resistant to brewing, after drinking, feel a small spring gushing up the throat, can not be retreated for a long time; Iron Goddess of Mercy is slightly bitter and astringent up the mouth, soft Shu Zhang, aftertaste in order to feel the true flavor; Wuyi Rock Tea gentle lubrication, tea sweet aftertaste, the more you drink the sweeter you feel.

不如学林语堂先生的闲适，捧一把茶壶，把这三种茶煎熬到最本质的精髓，那才真正可以品出白芽奇兰茶的独特之味。 Why not learn from Mr. Lin Yutang's leisure, holding a teapot, the three kinds of tea decoction to the essence of the most essential essence, that can really taste the unique flavor of white bud qilan tea.

有些人喝茶有自己的习惯和爱好，有些茶馆也有自己的特色茶叶。 Some people have their own habits and hobbies when it comes to drinking tea, and some teahouses have their own specialty teas.

我在十几年的品茶生涯中，也遇到过很多的奇闻逸事。 I've also come across a lot of oddities and anecdotes in my ten years of tea tasting.

我的学长张建恒和我住得很近，我住的小区与他住的小区只隔一条马路，中间是一个广场。 My senior, Zhang Jianheng, and I live very close to each other, and the neighborhood I live in is only one road away from the neighborhood he lives in, with a square in between.

平时，我们常带孩子到广场上玩耍。 During the week, we often take our kids to the square.

现在，广场周边成了商业区，有很多小饭店、小茶馆。 Now, the area around the square has become a commercial area with many small restaurants and teahouses.

我俩见面聊天或者谈事情的时候，就选择在附近的茶馆见面，有时候一下谈不完，需要中午或者晚上吃完饭接着谈，我们就在旁边的餐馆吃饭。 When we meet and chat or talk about things, we choose to meet in the neighborhood teahouse, sometimes we can't finish the conversation at once, we need to eat at noon or in the evening to continue the conversation, we eat in the restaurant next to us.

我俩一起去喝茶，我一般不喜欢自己点单。 We both go for tea together, and I usually don't like to order for myself.

张建恒就喜欢点正山小种，而这家茶馆最好的茶叶就是正山小种，其他的红茶很少。 Zhang Jianheng liked to order Zhengshan Xiaojiao, and the best tea in this teahouse was Zhengshan Xiaojiao, with few other black teas.

正山小种又称拉普山小种、桐木关小种，18世纪后期由武夷山深处的茶农首创于福建省崇安县（武夷山）桐木地区，是世界上最早的红茶，亦称为红茶鼻祖。 Zhengshan Xiaojiao, also known as Lapu Shan Xiaojiao and Tongmuguan Xiaojiao, was first created in the late 18th century in Tongmu area of Chong'an County (Wuyi Mountain) in Fujian Province by tea farmers deep in the Wuyi Mountains, and is the earliest black tea in the world, also known as the originator of black tea.

张建恒也许是感染了都市白领的习气，他喜欢小资的东西，以为正山小种就是最正宗、最小资、最高档的茶叶。 Zhang Jianheng may be infected with urban white-collar habits, he likes petty things, thinking that Zhengshan Xiaojiao is the most authentic, petty, the most upscale tea.

是的，很多茶叶都有它们自己的味道，也正是这个味道，让它有了很多的欣赏者，从而成为它的忠实消费者和粉丝。 Yes, many teas have their own flavor and it is this flavor that gives it a lot of appreciators and thus loyal consumers and fans.

自从2009年起，我给湖南省旅游局撰写《湖南省旅游志》《湖南省政区大典》等史志和区域性辞书，接触到一些退休干部，他们每年都有一两次旅游的机会。 Since 2009, I have been writing historical records and regional dictionaries such as "Hunan Tourism Journal" and "Dictionary of Political Regions of Hunan Province" for the Hunan Provincial Tourism Bureau, and I have come into contact with some retired cadres who have the opportunity to travel once or twice a year.

2013年秋，省旅游局组织二三十位老干部去武夷山旅游。 In the fall of 2013, the Provincial Tourism Bureau organized a trip to Wuyi Mountain for twenty to thirty old cadres.

退休处的同事都不想去，我们这边有两人没有去过武夷山，两个退休处的同事就把名额让给了我们。 Colleagues from the Retirement Division did not want to go, and two of us on our side had never been to Wuyi Mountain, so two colleagues from the Retirement Division gave us their places.

有两位老领导我曾经在工作中接触得比较多，他们参加过几次顾问会，也为我提供了很多工作上的支持。 There are two veteran leaders whom I used to have more contact with in my work, and they have attended several advisory meetings and provided me with a lot of support in my work.

这次出行，我一路上也比较照顾他们。 I took better care of them along the way on this trip, too.

我们到武夷山的前两天，都在参观、行走。 We spent the first two days of our visit to Mt. Wuyi visiting and walking.

第三天上午，为了让老人缓缓劲，让他们放松一下，就让他们自由活动。 On the morning of the third day, the seniors were allowed to move around freely in order to ease their energy and let them relax.

我们这些年轻人就继续参观，主要是爬山看景点。 We youngsters just continued our visit, mostly climbing the hills to see the sights.

我中午回到酒店，吃完中饭离开餐厅的时候，一位老领导要我去一下他的房间。 I returned to the hotel at noon, and as I was leaving the restaurant after lunch, an old leader asked me to go to his room for a moment.

我以为他有什么困难需要我帮忙，就放下摄影器材马上来到他的房间。 I thought he was in some kind of trouble and needed my help, so I put down my camera equipment and came to his room right away.

他拿起一个塑料袋，递给我。 He picked up a plastic bag and handed it to me.

我打开看时，发现袋子里是一些小纸盒，有十个盒子。 When I opened it, I realized that inside the bag were some small cardboard boxes, ten of them.

我拿起一个来看，是正山小种红茶。 I picked one up to see that it was Sho Shan Xiao Zi black tea.

我们上车后，大概经过半小时的车程，车停下来。 We got in the car and after about a half hour drive, the car stopped.

我走下车，看到车停在一家装修很雅致的茶馆门口。 I stepped out of the car and saw it parked in front of an elegantly decorated teahouse.

张先生马上下车，跑过去扶住曹老先生。 Mr. Zhang immediately got out of the car and ran over to help Mr. Cao.

张先生领我们到一间装修比较豪华的包间。 Mr. Zhang led us to a more luxuriously decorated private room.

我们坐下来，一位漂亮的茶艺师来给我们泡茶。 We sat down and a beautiful tea lady came to make us some tea.

茶艺师向我们介绍正山小种的情况。 The tea master introduces us to Zhengshan Xiaojiao.

她说，真正的桐木关红茶条索肥实，色泽乌润，汤色红浓，香气高长，带松烟香，滋味醇厚，有桂圆汤味。 She said that the real Tongmuguan black tea stripes fat, color and lustre oolong, soup color red and thick, high and long aroma, with pine smoke incense, mellow taste, cinnamon soup flavor.

我们常见的正山小种分叶茶、碎茶、片茶、末茶、菜茶等五个花色。 Our common Zhengshan Xiaojiao is divided into five colors: leaf tea, crushed tea, slice tea, end tea and vegetable tea.

茶艺师烧一壶开水，准备泡茶之前，给我们介绍表演工序，说分宝光初现、清泉初沸、温热壶盏、王子入宫、悬壶高冲、分杯敬客、喜闻幽香、观赏汤色、品味鲜爽、再赏余韵、三品得趣、收杯谢客等十二道工序。 Tea master burned a pot of boiling water, ready to brew tea before, give us an introduction to the performance process, said that the first appearance of the treasure light, the first boil of the spring, warm pots and lanterns, the prince into the palace, hanging pots and high rushing, divided into cups to the guest, happy to smell the fragrance, watch the soup color, taste the freshness, and then enjoy the afterglow, three taste of the fun, collect the cups to thank the guests and other twelve processes.

我喝着茶艺师泡的正山小种红茶，有种天然花香，那香味不强烈，细而含蓄，味醇厚甘爽，喉韵明显。 I sipped the Zhengshan Xiaojiao black tea brewed by the tea artisan, which had a natural floral aroma that was not strong, fine and subtle, with a mellow and sweet taste and a pronounced throatiness.

我听完茶艺师的介绍，对正山小种有了一些新的认识。 I have some new knowledge about Zheng Shan Xiao Seed after listening to the tea master's introduction.

我们又尝了几款张先生做得好的正山小种红茶，它们各有千秋，但茶叶的品质都很好。 We tasted a few more of Mr. Zhang's well-made Zhengshan Xiaojiao black teas, and they each had their own distinctive characteristics, but the quality of the teas was excellent.

张先生见我对茶有浓厚的兴趣，就给我介绍他的茶园和企业的发展情况。 Seeing my keen interest in tea, Mr. Zhang introduced me to the development of his tea plantation and business.

他说，正山小种的核心区东至麻粟，西至挂墩，南至皮坑、古王坑，北至桐木关，以桐木关为中心，方圆五六十公里。 He said that the core area of the Zhengshan small species east to Ma Su, west to hanging dun, south to Pikeng, Gu Wangkeng, north to Tongmuguan, Tongmuguan as the center, a circle of fifty to sixty kilometers.

他的茶园正在桐木关内，面积不大，仅三百亩，年产不足一千斤红茶。 His tea plantation is in Tongmuguan, a small area of only three hundred acres, with an annual output of less than one thousand pounds of black tea.

在崇安、建阳、光泽交界处的高地，有一千亩茶园，那里的海拔、地域与桐木周边相同，可以年产五千斤红茶。 There are one thousand acres of tea plantations in the highlands at the junction of Chong'an, Jianyang, and Glossy, where the elevation and territory are the same as around Tongmu, and they can produce five thousand pounds of black tea per year.

他的茶叶不在市面销售，主要是供一些固定的茶客在网上订购。 His teas are not sold in the market, but mainly for some regular tea drinkers to order online.

张先生给我介绍正山小种的历史。 Mr. Zhang introduced me to the history of Zhengshan Xiaojiao.

1568年，为明朝中后期，那年采茶季节的时候，一支军队路过桐木关，茶农为了避难逃往山中，采摘的茶青没有来得及制作，第二天回到家，茶叶已经发酵。 1568, for the middle and late Ming Dynasty, that year when the tea picking season, an army passed through Tongmuguan, tea farmers fled to the mountains in order to take refuge, picked tea green did not have time to make, the next day back home, the tea has been fermented.

为了挽回损失，用马尾松干柴焙烘，制成的茶叶运往镇上销售，受到茶客的欢迎与喜爱。 In order to recoup losses, the tea made from dry wood roasted with horsetail pine was shipped to the town for sale and was welcomed and loved by tea drinkers.

1604年，正山小种由荷兰商人带到欧洲，在英国、荷兰、法国等地销售，因为茶味浓郁，备受欢迎。 In 1604, Zhengshan Xiaojiao was brought to Europe by Dutch merchants and sold in England, Holland and France, where it became popular because of its strong tea flavor.

随即，正山小种风靡英国皇室乃至整个欧洲，并掀起了下午茶之风。 Immediately, Zhengshan Xiaojiao popular British royal family and even the whole of Europe, and set off the wind of afternoon tea.

嘉庆前期，我国出口的红茶有85%以正山小种的名义出口。 In the pre-Jiaqing period, 85% of the black tea exported from China was exported under the name of Zhengshan Xiaojiao.

鸦片战争后，宁德、祁门等地学习正山小种的种植和加工技术，才有了祁门红茶等品种。 After the Opium War, Ningde, Qimen and other places to learn the cultivation and processing technology of Zhengshan Xiaojiao, before the Keemun red tea and other varieties.

正山小种红茶的加工技艺逐渐传入各大绿茶、泉城绿茶、泉城红茶、乌龙茶、普洱茶的产区，形成闻名全国乃至世界的功夫红茶。 The processing techniques of Zhengshan Xiaojiao black tea were gradually introduced into the production areas of major green teas, Quancheng green tea, Quancheng black tea, Oolong tea and Pu'er tea, forming the Kung Fu black tea which is famous all over the country and even the world.

张先生说，正山小种告诉我们两件事，正山指正确、正宗，小种指小叶种茶。 Mr. Zhang said, Zhengshan Xiao Seed tells us two things, Zhengshan means correct and authentic, and Xiao Seed means small leaf tea.

通过这次考察，我对正山小种有了更进一步的了解。 Through this visit, I have a better understanding of Zhengshan Xiaojiao.

张先生本想安排我第二天到他的桐木关茶园去看看，我不想脱离组织，就谢绝了去茶园实地考察的机会。 Mr. Zhang wanted to arrange for me to visit his Tongmuguan Tea Plantation the next day, but I didn't want to break away from the organization, so I declined the opportunity to go on a field trip to the tea plantation.

我心里很满足，这次旅程使我摒弃了对正山小种的偏见，对它有了深度的了解。 My heart was satisfied, and this journey enabled me to discard my prejudice against Zhengshan Xiaojiao and gain a deeper understanding of it.

在长沙喝茶的这个小圈子里，很多女性都喜欢喝金骏眉茶。 In this small circle of tea drinkers in Changsha, many women like to drink Jin Jun Mei tea.

她们把金骏眉茶当作女性的专用茶，甚至把它当作最高档的茶。 They treat Jinjunmei tea as a special tea for women, and even consider it as the most high-class tea.

与朋友们一起喝茶，常有人带金骏眉茶来，要我品尝品尝，给个评价。 Drinking tea with friends, people often bring Jinjunmei tea to me and ask me to taste it and give a comment.

有些朋友甚至把他们从网上购买的金骏眉茶带来，要我品尝后给它们分级别、定价格。 Some of my friends even brought their Jin Jun Mei teas purchased from the Internet for me to taste and grade and price them.

这常常把我搞得十分狼狈，喝杯茶，要给他们讲解很多的事情，还要无偿回答那些浅陋的提问，根本无法安心喝茶，享受茶带给我的轻松和愉悦。 This often puts me in a very difficult position, drinking a cup of tea, having to explain a lot of things to them, and having to answer those shallow questions gratuitously, so I can't feel at ease with my tea, enjoying the relaxation and pleasure it brings me.

我有位朋友叫刘继德，他并不是专业的爱茶人士。 I have a friend called Liu Jide, who is not a professional tea lover.

每次到他的办公室闲坐，他就会把他收罗来的好茶拿出来，让我品尝品尝。 Whenever I went to his office to sit around, he would bring out the good tea he had collected and let me taste and savor it.

我喝了他的茶，不能闷声不响地走了，一定要给他留下只言片语。 I drank his tea and couldn't go away muffled, I must leave him just a word.

他常会问我，这茶的味道如何、品质怎么样等等问题。 He would often ask me how the tea tasted, what the quality was, and other questions.

我也把自己品尝到的味道、喝的感觉详细地告诉他当作回报。 I also told him in detail about the flavors I tasted and how I felt when I drank it in return.

他经常会大呼小叫起来，说，你知道这是好茶吧！我只拿给你喝的，因为你懂茶。 He would often shout up and say, "You know this is good tea! I only took it for you to drink because you know tea.

有一天，刘继德拿了他的五粮液酒来找我，说要请我吃饭。 One day, Liu Jide brought his Wuliangye wine to me and said he wanted to treat me to dinner.

我又给他介绍金骏眉，金骏眉属于正山小种的分支，产于武夷山市桐木关，由正山小种红茶第二十四代传承人江元勋带领团队在传统工艺的基础上通过创新融合于2005年研制成功。 I also introduced him to Jin Jun Mei, Jin Jun Mei belongs to a branch of Zhengshan Xiao Seed, produced in Wuyishan City, Tongmuguan, by the 24th generation of Zhengshan Xiao Seed Black Tea inheritor Jiang Yuanxun led the team in the traditional craft based on the integration of innovation in 2005 to develop a successful.

金骏眉全程由制茶师傅手工制作，每斤有数万枚茶芽，经过萎凋、摇青、发酵、揉捻等工艺。 Jin Jun Mei is handmade by tea masters throughout the whole process, with tens of thousands of tea buds per catty, after withering, shaking, fermentation, kneading and other processes.

外形细小紧密，伴有金黄色的茶绒茶毫，汤色金黄，入口甘爽。 The shape is small and compact, accompanied by golden-yellow tea floss tea hairs, the soup color is golden, and the taste is sweet and refreshing.

我说过这番话之后，也就没有记在心上。 After I said that, I didn't keep it in mind.

不到半个月时间，刘继德给我打电话，问我有时间去武夷山一趟吗？ In less than half a month, Liu Jide called me and asked me if I had time to make a trip to Wuyishan.

他想去武夷山看看正山堂茶业的金骏眉。 He wanted to go to Wuyi Mountain to see the Jinjunmei from Zhengshantang Tea.

我也正好那段时间事情不多，想到外面去走走，就答应了他一起去武夷山桐木关寻找正山堂茶业的茶园。 I also happened to have few things to do during that time, and wanted to go out for a walk, so I agreed to go with him to Tongmuguan, Wuyi Mountain, to look for the tea gardens of Zhengshantang Tea.

我们这次是出来寻茶，刘继德没有安排旅游的环节，我也没有旅游的心情，就直接进入桐木关，开着一辆越野车在深山老林里到处找茶园。 We are out this time to find tea, Liu Jide did not arrange a tour of the session, I do not have the mood to travel, it is directly into the Tongmuguan, driving an off-road vehicle in the deep forest everywhere looking for tea plantations.

我们看完一圈，再去联系好了的正山堂茶业及几个可以制作金骏眉茶的厂家，主要是观赏和品味他们做出来的茶叶。 We looked around and then went to the well connected Zhengshantang Tea and a few other manufacturers who can make Jinjunmei tea, mainly to view and savor the tea they make.

正山堂茶业派了一位姓姜的女士接待我们。 Zheng Shan Tang Tea sent a lady named Jiang to receive us.

刘继德把来意和想法与她说了，她很高兴，觉得我们有合作的机会。 Liu Jide put the intention and idea with her, she was very happy, think we have the opportunity to cooperate.

她拿出正山堂茶业最好的金骏眉给我们观赏，她指着玻璃罐里的茶叶告诉我们，那金黄色的是茶叶的绒毛和嫩芽，好的金骏眉条索紧结纤细、圆而挺直，看上去有锋苗，放在手里身骨重，每根却很匀整，闻起来香气清新。 She took out the best Jinjunmei of Zhengshan Hall Tea Industry for us to see, she pointed to the tea in the glass jar and told us that the golden color of the tea is the fluff and buds, the good Jinjunmei cord is tightly knotted and slender, round and straight, looks like there is a sharp seedling, put in the hand of the body bone weight, each root is very neat, smells fresh aroma.

我们按着她说的试了试，觉得她讲得非常到位。 We tried what she said and thought she was spot on.

她又给我们演示了冲泡金骏眉茶的全过程，刚泡好的茶汤色泽金黄，喝起来水中带甜、甜里透香，热汤清爽纯正、温汤熟香细腻、冷汤清和幽雅。 She also gave us a demonstration of the whole process of brewing Jinjunmei tea, just brewed tea soup golden color, drink water with sweet, sweet through the fragrance, hot soup refreshing and pure, warm soup ripe fragrance delicate, cold soup and elegant.

那倒掉茶水的杯底，还有花果香溢出。 There was still a floral and fruity scent overflowing from the bottom of that poured cup of tea.

无论热的时候或冷的时候饮用，皆绵顺滑口，有清、和、醇、厚、香的特点。 Whether you drink it when it's hot or cold, it's smooth and creamy, with clear, harmonious, mellow, thick and fragrant characteristics.

这杯金骏眉茶，连泡十二次，茶汤的口感仍然饱满甘甜，那叶片舒展后芽尖鲜活，秀挺亮丽，没有泡烂的现象。 This cup of Jinjunmei tea, twelve times in a row, the taste of the tea broth is still full of sweetness, that the leaf spreads after the bud tip is fresh, show bright, there is no bubble rotten phenomenon.

她又给我们介绍正山堂茶业金骏眉的来历。 She went on to tell us about the origins of Zheng Shan Tang Tea's Jin Jun Mei.

她说这种茶因冲泡后茶汤金黄，有淡而甜的花香、蜜香、果香，喝了甘甜润滑，叶片外形细小金秀，颜色金、黄、黑相间，故取名金。 She said that this tea because after brewing the tea soup golden, light and sweet fragrance of flowers, honey, fruit, drink sweet and lubricating, the shape of the leaf is small gold show, the color of gold, yellow, black, so named gold.

当时开发的第一代新产品只选崇山峻岭中的小叶种茶的一芽为原料，创始人期望这茶能够如骏马般奔腾发展，故取名骏。 At that time, the development of the first generation of new products only selected the small-leafed tea buds in the mountains as raw materials, the founder expects that the tea can be like a stallion galloping development, so the name Jun.

研制出来的茶叶形状似弯弯的眉毛，眉毛有长寿、长久之意，故取名眉。 The shape of the developed tea resembles a curved eyebrow, and the eyebrow has the meaning of long life and longevity, so it is named Eyebrow.

把这三个字合起来，就是金骏眉。 Put those three words together and you've got Golden Stallion.

刘继德找我去是品茶、尝茶，鉴别各个厂家和各种茶叶品质及特色。 Liu Jide sought me out to be tasting tea, tasting tea, identifying various manufacturers and various tea qualities and characteristics.

我们经过三天的考察，看了数千亩茶园，也去了几家茶厂，品尝了十几种茶。 We went on a three-day tour to see thousands of acres of tea gardens, as well as visit several tea factories and taste a dozen types of tea.

对金骏眉有个大概的了解和认识，也确定了我们要的那几种茶。 We have a general idea and understanding of the Golden Stallion and have identified the kinds of tea we want.

祁门红茶是中国历史名茶，因产于安徽祁门一带而闻名于世。 Keemun black tea is a famous Chinese historical tea, famous for being produced in the Keemun area of Anhui Province.

祁门西北有大洪岭、历山，东有楠木岭，南有榉根岭，盛产茶叶，唐代已有名。 Qimen northwest of Dahongling, Alexandria, east of Nanmu Ling, south of Beech Root Ridge, rich in tea, the Tang Dynasty has been famous.

清代光绪以前，祁门不产红茶，主要产绿茶，与闻名的六安茶相仿，曾有“安绿”之称。 Before the Qing Dynasty Guangxu, Qimen does not produce black tea, mainly produces green tea, similar to the famous Lu'an tea, there was "An Green" said.

光绪元年，黟县人余干臣从福建罢官归籍从商，创设茶庄，学习正山小种红茶的制作方法，祁门遂改制红茶，成为红茶界的后起之秀，很快走红全国乃至世界。 In the first year of Guangxu, Yixian Yu Ganchen from Fujian, the official home from the business, the creation of tea estates, learning the production methods of black tea Zhengshan Xiaojiao, Qimen was changed to black tea, black tea became a rising star in the world, and soon became popular throughout the country and even in the world.

祁门采茶分春夏两季，只采鲜嫩茶芽的一芽二叶，经萎凋、初制、揉捻、发酵等多道工序，制成红茶原坯。 Keemun tea picking in spring and summer, only the tender tea buds of one bud and two leaves, through withering, initial production, kneading, fermentation and other processes, made of black tea blanks.

揉捻的嫩芽发酵后由绿色变成深褐色，再经毛筛、抖筛、分筛、紧门、撩筛、切断、风选、拣剔、补火、清风、拼和等数道工艺，精心挑选，芽叶散发着香气。 The twisted young buds turn from green to dark brown after fermentation, and then they are carefully selected through several processes, such as hair sieving, shaking sieving, sieving, tightening the door, lifting the sieve, cutting off, wind-selecting, picking, supplementing the fire, clearing the wind, and putting together the harmony, and the buds and leaves emit an aroma.

祁门红茶现采现制，以保持鲜叶的有效成分。 Keemun black tea is freshly picked and made to maintain the active ingredients of the fresh leaves.

功夫红茶是祁门红茶中的佼佼者，以香高、味醇、形美、色艳四绝驰名于世。 Kung Fu black tea is the best of Keemun black tea, known for its high aroma, mellow taste, beautiful shape and color.

祁门隶属歙州，茶叶的品质并不非常高，可种植者甚众，名声益大。 Qimen belongs to Shezhou, the quality of tea is not very high, but the growers are very many, the reputation of the greater.

唐咸通三年，祁门茶业日益壮大，终于达到鼎盛时代。 Tang Xiantong three years, Qimen tea industry is growing, and finally reached its heyday.

祁门、东至、贵池、石台、黟县一带，处安徽南端，黄山支脉，海拔600米左右的山地占九成，适合槠叶种茶的生长种植。 Qimen, Dongzhi, Guizhi, Shitai, Yixian area, at the southern end of Anhui Province, Huangshan Mountain tributary, the altitude of about 600 meters of the mountains accounted for ninety percent, suitable for chinkapin leaf species of tea growth planting.

加之这一带山区气候湿润、雨量充沛、早晚温差大，茶叶内含物和酶活性较丰富，采摘的茶叶适合制作功夫红茶。 In addition, the climate of this mountainous area is humid, with abundant rainfall and a big temperature difference between morning and evening, the tea leaves are rich in inclusions and enzyme activities, and the tea leaves picked are suitable for making Kung Fu black tea.

祁门茶最好的生长地域是祁门的历口、闪里、平里一带，气候温和、雨水充足、日照适度。 The best growing area for Keemun tea is the area around Rikou, Shanli and Pingli in Keemun, which has a mild climate, sufficient rainfall and moderate sunshine.

祁门红茶条索紧细秀长匀整，锋苗秀丽，色泽乌润；内质清芳带有蜜糖香味，香气酷似果香，上品蕴含兰花香，馥郁清鲜持久；汤色红艳明亮，滋味甘鲜醇厚，叶底红亮翻飞。 Keemun red tea rope tight and thin long and uniform, sharp Miao Xiuli, the color and lustre oolong; inner quality Qingfang with honey flavor, aroma is like fruit, the top grade contains orchid flavor, rich and fresh lasting; soup color red and bright, taste sweet and mellow, the bottom of the leaf is red and bright turn fly.

与印度大吉岭茶、斯里兰卡乌伐的季节茶并列世界三大高香茶。 With India Darjeeling tea, Sri Lanka Uva's seasonal tea and the world's top three highly aromatic tea.

现在，祁门红茶在英国、法国、荷兰、德国、日本、俄国、丹麦等国有巨大消费市场。 Now, Keemun black tea has a huge consumer market in the UK, France, Holland, Germany, Japan, Russia, Denmark and other countries.

光绪元年，余干臣羡慕福建闽红的巨大销量，也想生产红茶，在至德县(今东至县)尧渡街设立红茶庄，仿效闽红的制作方法制作祁门红茶获得成功，次年在祁门历口、闪里设立分茶庄。 The first year of Guangxu, Yu Ganchen envy Fujian Min red huge sales, also want to produce black tea, in Zhide County (now Dongzhi County) Yaodu Street set up a black tea factory, modeled on the production methods of Min red production of Keemun black tea was successful, the next year in the Qimen Li Kou, Shan Li set up a branch of the tea factory.

此时，胡元龙在祁门南乡贵溪进行“绿改红”，设立日顺茶厂试生产红茶成功。 At this time, Hu Yuanlong in Qimen Nanxiang Guixi "green to red", the establishment of Rishun Tea Factory trial production of black tea success.

祁门红茶不断扩大生产，形成我国重要的红茶产区。 Keemun black tea continues to expand production, the formation of China's important black tea production areas.

喝祁门红茶，是有些讲究和规矩的，特别是喝功夫红茶需要经过备具、赏茶、烫杯热罐、投茶、洗茶、第一泡、鲤鱼跳龙门、游山玩水、喜闻幽香、品啜甘茗、第二泡、第三泡等整个过程，才能享受喝茶的乐趣。 Drinking Keemun black tea, there are some instructions and rules, especially drinking Kung Fu black tea need to go through the whole process of preparing equipment, tea appreciation, hot cups and hot canisters, throwing tea, washing tea, the first bubble, carp jump dragon door gate, swimming in the mountains and playing in the water, happy to smell the aroma, tasting and sipping the sweet tea, the second bubble, the third bubble and so on, in order to enjoy the fun of drinking tea.

2013年6月，我应邀参加农夫山泉组织的千岛湖之旅。 In June 2013, I was invited to join a trip to Qiandao Lake organized by Nongfusanquan.

当天上午十点，从长沙黄花机场直飞杭州萧山机场，在萧山机场吃中饭的时候，我看到一个广告，才想起我们已经到了杭州，应该与最有名的西湖龙井来个亲密接触。 At ten o'clock in the morning of that day, we flew directly from Changsha Huanghua Airport to Hangzhou Xiaoshan Airport. While having lunch at Xiaoshan Airport, I saw an advertisement, and remembered that we had already arrived at Hangzhou, and we should have a close contact with the most famous Xihu Longjing.

我就问带队的人有没有安排在杭州停留的时间，以便去西湖看看那几株龙井老茶树。 I then asked the person leading the group if they had arranged a stopover in Hangzhou so that I could go to West Lake to see the old Longjing tea trees.

得到的回复是时间紧，来不及在西湖停留，大家的情绪都有点低落。 The response was that time was too tight to stop at West Lake, and everyone was a little down in the dumps.

我们此行的主要目的是体验农夫山泉采水点和生产线，了解农夫山泉的卫生标准，也只好按照他们的规划线路去玩。 The main purpose of our trip was to experience the Nongfusanquan water collection point and production line, to understand the hygiene standard of Nongfusanquan, and also had to follow their planning line to play.

千岛湖在杭州市淳安县，离萧山机场还有两个多小时的车程。 Qiandao Lake is in Chun'an County, Hangzhou, more than two hours' drive from Xiaoshan Airport.

我们吃完中饭，改乘大巴车走高速公路前往淳安县千岛湖镇。 We finished our lunch and switched to a bus to take the highway to Thousand Island Lake town in Chun'an County.

下午四点多，我们下榻千岛湖酒店。 We stayed at the Thousand Island Lake Hotel just after 4pm.

我住在八楼，临千岛湖畔，在房间里可以看到千岛湖的轮廓，享受千岛湖的风光和新鲜空气。 I stayed on the eighth floor, near the shore of Qiandao Lake, and I could see the outline of Qiandao Lake from my room and enjoy the scenery and fresh air of Qiandao Lake.

晚饭后，我回到房间，拿起摄影器材，匆匆忙忙去千岛湖镇上闲逛。 After dinner, I went back to my room, grabbed my camera equipment, and hurried off to wander around the town of Thousand Island Lake.

千岛湖镇不大，也就三四条街，多是些餐馆、服装和纪念品的店铺。 The town of Qiandao Lake is not big, just three or four streets, mostly restaurants, clothing and souvenir stores.

我觉得没有多大意思，就返回酒店。 I didn't find it very interesting and returned to the hotel.

在镇中心广场旁边角落里，有一个很小的拱门，挂着千岛湖小商品市场的牌子。 In the corner next to the town center square, there is a very small archway with a sign for the Thousand Island Lake Small Commodities Market.

我就钻进去一看，才知道是条小土特产街，有十多家店铺，主要是销售鱼干和茶叶的。 So I dug in and realized it was a small souvenir street with a dozen or so stores, mainly selling dried fish and tea.

大大小小的鱼干都有，最长的一米多，小的是嫩仔鱼，墙壁上、铺板上，到处都是鱼干，让我极其惊讶。 There were dried fish of all sizes, the longest being over a meter long, the smallest being tender fish, and I was extremely surprised by the fact that there were dried fish on the walls, on the paving slabs, and everywhere.

我看着一桶桶的茶叶，它们看起来品质不错，香味浓郁，有市面散装龙井、低档盒装龙井的式样。 I looked at the buckets of tea leaves, they seemed to be of good quality, with a strong aroma, in the style of the market's bulk Longjing and low-grade boxed Longjing.

我就问店家老板，这是什么茶叶，老板说这是淳安县本地产的茶叶，有千岛湖玉叶、千岛湖龙井、千岛湖银针等。 I asked the store owner what kind of tea this was, and the owner said it was locally produced tea in Chun'an County, including Thousand Island Lake Jade Leaf, Thousand Island Lake Longjing, and Thousand Island Lake Silver Needle.

没有多聊，我就回酒店了。 Without much conversation, I headed back to the hotel.

在宾馆里，我查阅了一些千岛湖的资料，才知道淳安三宝为山核桃、山茶油、千岛鱼干，淳安的茶叶没被列入特产，也没有特别的规划和发展，多为商贩按西湖龙井等工艺生产、加工，在杭州以及外地销售。 In the hotel, I consulted some of the information of Qiandao Lake, only to know that Chunan three treasures for the pecans, camellia oil, Qiandao dried fish, Chunan tea is not included in the specialties, there is no special planning and development, mostly vendors according to the West Lake Longjing and other craft production, processing, in Hangzhou, as well as foreign sales.

然而，淳安产茶历史悠久，有千年贡茶的历史。 However, Chunan has a long history of tea production, with a thousand years of tribute tea.

淳安的鸠坑种为中国茶树十大良种之一，鸠坑茶树王位于鸠坑乡塘联自然村，被誉为茶祖茶种国家级鸠坑原种茶，茶树高5.2米、长约10米、宽约8米，有800余年树龄。 Chunan's Hatkeng species for China's top ten species of tea, Hatkeng tea tree king is located in Hatkeng Township Tanglian natural village, known as the tea ancestor of tea species of national Hatkeng original species of tea, tea tree 5.2 meters high, about 10 meters long, about 8 meters wide, with more than 800 years of age.

第二天，我们去了农夫山泉最早的生产厂区和农夫山泉总部，又坐船去了农夫山泉矿泉水的取水点，接着去了千岛湖中最高的黄山尖，在山顶看那些岛屿构成的“公”字。 The next day, we went to the earliest production plant of Nongfushanquan and the headquarters of Nongfushanquan, and took a boat to the water point of Nongfushanquan mineral water, and then went to the highest point of Huangshan Mountain in Qiandao Lake, and watched the "Gong" character formed by those islands at the top of the mountain.

接着，我们去了农夫果园饮料和东方树叶茶饮料的生产基地。 Next, we went to the production sites of Farmer's Orchard Drink and Oriental Leaf Tea Drink.

这段路程稍微有点远，湖面上的雾气散了，太阳露出了灿烂的笑脸，炙烤着我们的身体，船舱里无比闷热，甲板上气温不低，我只好躲到船舱去二楼的过道上，既可以吹风，也能够欣赏湖景。 It was a little bit farther, the fog on the lake lifted, the sun showed its bright smile, baking our bodies, the cabin was incredibly stuffy, the temperature on the deck was not low, I had to hide in the cabin to the second floor of the aisle, both wind and able to enjoy the view of the lake.

中饭后，我们开始参观农夫果园饮料和东方树叶茶饮料的生产线，这是我第一次参观这么先进的全自动生产线，是从国外引进的生产线。 After lunch, we started to visit the production line of Farmer's Orchard Drink and Oriental Leaf Tea Drink, which was my first time to visit such an advanced and fully automated production line, which was introduced from abroad.

为体验他们的产品，我不由自主地拿起了参观走廊上展示柜里一瓶刚下线的农夫果园和一瓶东方树叶红茶，边参观边品味它们，感受千岛湖的水果味道和茶叶味道。 In order to experience their products, I could not help but pick up a bottle of Farmer's Orchard and a bottle of Oriental Tree Leaf Black Tea that had just come off the production line in the display case on the tour corridor, and savored them while visiting, feeling the taste of fruits and the taste of tea from Qiandao Lake.

我本身喜欢红茶，喝了东方树叶茶饮料中的红茶，觉得它香醇不错，甜度不高，就是茶水有些涩而已，没有开水泡茶的甘甜。 I like black tea myself, I drank the black tea in Oriental Tree Leaf Tea Drinks and found it to be nicely aromatic, not too sweet, just a little astringent, not as sweet as the tea brewed in boiling water.

我又喝了一瓶绿茶，绿茶的茶碱涩度更高，稍微带苦味了。 I drank another bottle of green tea, which is much more astringent and slightly more bitter.

我就问陪同我们参观的随行人员，她告诉我，东方树叶茶饮料都是采用新鲜茶叶直接加工制作的茶水，不是用干茶叶烧煮的茶水。 I then asked the entourage who accompanied us on the tour, and she told me that all Oriental Tree Leaf tea beverages are made using fresh tea leaves directly processed to make tea, not tea boiled with dried tea leaves.

我一下就明白了，用鲜茶叶直接制作的茶水不像揉茶制作干茶叶的时候那样去掉了茶碱，茶碱还在茶水里，茶水的茶碱含量就会高一些。 I realized at once that tea made directly from fresh tea leaves does not remove the theophylline like it does when kneading tea to make dry tea leaves, and the theophylline is still in the tea.

东方树叶茶饮料一天要用八吨左右的鲜茶叶，这些茶叶主要来源于淳安县本地的茶树。 Oriental Tree Leaf Tea Drink uses about eight tons of fresh tea leaves a day, which are mainly sourced from local tea trees in Chun'an County.

青溪一带的茶叶叶肥芽壮，是制作千岛玉叶的茶源。 The tea leaves around Qingxi are fat with strong buds, which is the source of tea for making Thousand Island Jade Leaf.

制成后的茶叶扁平挺直，绿翠露毫，芽壮显毫，翠绿嫩黄，香气清高，内质清香持久，汤色黄绿明亮，滋味醇厚鲜爽，叶底嫩绿成朵。 The tea leaves are flat and straight, green and green, with strong buds, green and tender yellow, high aroma, long-lasting fragrance, bright yellow-green soup color, mellow and fresh taste, and tender green leaf bottom.

农夫山泉东方树叶茶饮料为了节省成本，就近开采茶叶原料，用青溪一带的茶叶来生产东方树叶茶饮料的乌龙茶、茉莉花茶、红茶、绿茶。 In order to save costs, Nongfushanquan Oriental Tree Leaf Tea Drinks mines tea raw materials nearby and uses tea from the Qingxi area to produce Oolong Tea, Jasmine Tea, Black Tea, and Green Tea for Oriental Tree Leaf Tea Drinks.

第二天晚上，我们住在新安江水电站下游的一处干休所，再没有机会去看淳安县的茶园。 The next night, we stayed at a dry rest house downstream of the Xin'an River hydropower station and had no further opportunity to see the tea plantations in Chun'an County.

第三天早晨离开去杭州的路上，我从大巴车的窗户里倒是看到了几处茶园，无奈距离太远，无法看清楚，甚为遗憾。 On the third morning on the way to Hangzhou, I did see a few tea gardens from the bus window, but it was too far away to see them clearly, which was a pity.

临安是长江三角洲南端的一颗绿色明珠，更是江浙茶都。 Lin'an is a green pearl at the southern end of the Yangtze River Delta, but also the tea capital of Jiangsu and Zhejiang.

临安位于浙江省西北部，东临杭州市余杭区，南连富阳、桐庐、淳安，西接安徽歙县、宁国、绩溪，北靠安吉。 Lin'an is located in the northwest of Zhejiang Province, east of Hangzhou Yuhang District, south of Fuyang, Tonglu, Chun'an, west of Anhui Shexian, Ningguo, Jixi, north of Anji.

天目山雄踞黄山与东海之间，像龙飞凤舞俯控吴越、狮蹲象立威镇东南。 Tianmu Mountain is located between Huangshan Mountain and the East China Sea, like a dragon flying phoenix overlooking control of Wuyue, lion squatting elephant standing mighty town southeast.

天目山古名浮玉山，是浙江天目山脉的名山之一。 The ancient name of Tianmu Mountain is Fuyu Mountain, which is one of the famous mountains in Tianmu Mountain Range of Zhejiang Province.

天目山中古木参天，山峰灵秀，气候温湿，森林茂密，土壤棕黑，呈酸性，终年云雾笼罩。 Tianmu Mountain in the ancient trees in the sky, the peaks of the spirit, the climate is warm and humid, dense forests, brown and black soil, acidic, year-round cloud cover.

我到天目山，山上雾多，据统计年平均每年有250天以上云雾不散。 I went to Tianmu Mountain, the mountain is very foggy, according to statistics the annual average of more than 250 days a year the clouds do not dissipate.

茶树分布在海拔600米至1200米的山坞间，茶叶湿润清爽，细嫩叶阔，是中国著名产茶区。 Tea trees are distributed among the mountain dock at an altitude of 600 meters to 1200 meters, the tea leaves are moist and refreshing, and the delicate leaves are broad, which makes it a famous tea-producing area in China.

两千年前，茶祖梅福来到临安，在九仙山栽种茶树，后迁到太湖源镇梅家村人工栽培茶叶，开始了人工培育茶叶的历史。 Two thousand years ago, the tea ancestor Meifu came to Lin'an, planted tea trees in Jiu Xian Mountain, and then moved to Taihuyuan Township Meijia Village to cultivate tea artificially, which began the history of artificial cultivation of tea.

其后裔移居杭州梅家坞后，培育出了茶中稀世珍品龙井。 After his descendants moved to Meijiawu in Hangzhou, they cultivated Longjing, a rare gem of tea.

明朝中期，天目山茶被选为浙江贡品，上贡朝廷。 In the middle of the Ming Dynasty, Tianmu Mountain tea was chosen as the tribute of Zhejiang Province and was paid to the court.

天目山的其他茶叶，种类繁多，也很受人们欢迎。 Other teas from Tianmu Mountain, which come in a wide variety, are also popular.

到清朝，於潜王茶被列为名茶。 By the Qing Dynasty, Yu Qian Wang tea was classified as a famous tea.

民国时期，天目云雾茶（天目青顶）荣获“南洋劝业会”金质奖章。 During the Republic of China period, Tianmu Yunwu Tea (Tianmu Qingdian) won the gold medal of "Nanyang persuasion".

还有于临烘青（正路烘青）、顺溪大方、炒青眉茶等香飘四海。 There are also Yulin Baked Green (Zhenglu Baked Green), Shunxi Dafang, and Fried Green Eyebrow Tea, etc., whose aromas are popular all over the world.

天目山茶与江浙僧侣有不解之缘。 Tianmu Mountain tea has an uneasy relationship with the monks in Jiangsu and Zhejiang.

僧侣们凭借山中大树华盖、古生腐殖质肥厚、海拔适宜等得天独厚的自然条件，在天目山中栽茶、采茶、制茶、品茶、论茶。 The monks planted tea, picked tea, made tea, tasted tea, and discussed tea in Tianmu Mountain by virtue of the unique natural conditions of the mountain, such as large trees in Huagai, fertile ancient humus, and suitable altitude.

唐代诗僧皎然与陆迅、元晟饮茶天目山寺，写下《对陆迅饮天目山茶，因寄元居士晟》的茶诗。 Tang Dynasty poet monk Kyauk Ran and Lu Xun, Yuan Sheng tea Tianmu Mountain Temple, wrote "to Lu Xun drinking Tianmu Mountain tea, because sent Yuan Jushi Sheng" tea poem.

明代屠隆把天目茶与虎丘、天池、阳羡、六安、龙井同列佳茗。 In Ming Dynasty, Tu Long listed Tianmu tea with Huqiu, Tianchi, Yangxian, Liu'an and Longjing.

至清代，许多文人学士慕名登上天目山，纷纷会僧、品茗、诵诗，留下不少佳句。 To the Qing Dynasty, many literati and scholars climbed to Tianmu Mountain in honor of the name, and they met monks, tasted tea, recited poems, and left a lot of good lines.

清代杭州名士厉鹗，写下了长篇《天目茶歌》。 Li Osprey, a famous scholar from Hangzhou in the Qing Dynasty, wrote a long article called "Tianmu Tea Song".

在临安行走了月余，我了解到的历史名茶有天目青顶，传统名茶有天目龙井、顺溪大方；大宗茶有炒青眉茶、于临烘青；新特名茶有天目有机茶，深受茶客青睐，我也特别喜欢其清新的香味。 Walking in Lin'an for more than a month, I learned about the history of famous tea Tianmu Qingdeng, traditional tea Tianmu Longjing, Shunxi Dafang; bulk tea has fried green eyebrow tea, Yu Lin baking green; new special tea Tianmu Organic Tea, favored by tea drinkers, and I also especially like its fresh fragrance.

2006年五一期间，我有十多天的时间在安徽、江苏、上海三地行走。 During the first day of May 2006, I had more than ten days to walk in Anhui, Jiangsu and Shanghai.

我在苏州待了三天，去过的景点有拙政园、寒山寺、枫桥夜泊等。 I spent three days in Suzhou and visited the Humble Administrator's Garden, Cold Mountain Temple, and Maple Bridge at Night.

第二天，我与朋友游完枫桥夜泊去虎丘。 The next day, I went to Tiger Hill with my friend after touring Maple Bridge at Night.

我原来没有打算去虎丘这个景点，朋友说他很想去看看，我就同意去了。 I hadn't originally planned to visit the Tiger Hill attraction, but my friend said he'd love to see it, so I agreed to go.

我对虎丘没有什么概念，只知道虎丘有剑池和虎丘茶。 I don't have any idea about Huqiu, I only know that Huqiu has a sword pool and Huqiu tea.

虎丘位于苏州城西北郊，原名海涌山，相传春秋时吴王夫差葬其父阖闾于此，葬后三日有白虎踞其上故名。 Tiger Hill is located in the northwestern suburbs of Suzhou City, formerly known as the Haiyong Mountain, according to legend, during the Spring and Autumn Period, King Fu-chai of Wu buried his father Helu Lu here, three days after the burial of the white tiger perched on it, hence the name.

我们是看完枫桥夜泊才来到虎丘的，已经接近中午，只好找一家饭店吃饭。 We came to Tiger Hill after seeing the Maple Bridge at night, and it was close to noon, so we had to find a restaurant to eat.

周边没有大饭店，门口左边有一排小餐馆。 There are no big restaurants in the neighborhood, and there is a row of small restaurants to the left of the entrance.

我们走了进去，我点了三道苏帮菜。 We walked in and I ordered three sous vide dishes.

服务员给我们每人泡了一杯绿茶，那茶叶修长若寸，泡进开水里，茶叶上还附有一些细小的气泡，茶叶的白毫也完全显露出来。 The waiter gave each of us a cup of green tea, the tea leaves are long and slender if inches, steeped into the boiling water, the tea leaves are still attached to some tiny bubbles, the white hairs of the tea leaves are also fully revealed.

茶叶在杯子里还没完全泡开，一股幽雅的香味就飘然而出。 Before the tea leaves had fully steeped in the cup, an elegant fragrance wafted out.

我知道这是好茶，就问服务员这茶叫什么名字，是哪里产的。 I knew it was good tea, so I asked the waiter what the tea was called and where it was made.

她告诉我，这茶就是虎丘产的，叫虎丘茶。 She told me that this tea is produced in Huqiu, called Huqiu tea.

我是来寻虎丘茶，就这样遇到了，真是高兴。 I was looking for Tiger's Nest tea, and I was so happy to come across it like this.

她还告诉我，虎丘景区还有个云在茶香的景点，是1989年种植的白云茶树，景区还有一口陆羽井，是陆羽留下的遗迹。 She also told me that the Huqiu scenic area also has a cloud in the tea attraction, is planted in 1989 Baiyun tea tree, the scenic area there is also a Lu Yu well, is Lu Yu left the remains.

我是第一次到苏州，还不习惯吃苏帮菜，特别是它的甜和咸。 It's my first time in Suzhou and I'm still not used to sous-vide cuisine, especially its sweetness and saltiness.

不过，我对这杯虎丘茶很感兴趣，要服务员给我送瓶开水来。 However, I was intrigued by the cup of Tiger's Tea and asked the waiter to bring me a bottle of boiling water.

我自己慢慢续水，慢慢品饮，好好地享受这杯虎丘茶。 I refill my own water slowly, sip slowly, and enjoy the cup of Huqiu tea.

我一共兑了四次开水，茶汤已经清澈见底了，早就没有茶汤原有的颜色。 I blended the boiling water four times in total, and the tea broth was already clear and had long since lost its original color.

但是茶汤还是甘甜的，香味不散。 But the tea broth is still sweet and the aroma does not dissipate.

我就干脆把泡过的茶叶放在嘴里，学着一些老先生吃茶叶，茶叶表面很滑很嫩，吃在嘴里没有苦涩味，香味还很浓郁。 I simply put the brewed tea leaves in my mouth, learning from some old gentlemen to eat tea leaves, the surface of the tea leaves is very smooth and tender, there is no bitterness and astringency in my mouth, and the aroma is still very strong.

我读王稼句先生的《姑苏食话》，有一篇《茶荈》就讲到虎丘茶，他进行了很多方面的考证，而且把虎丘茶与天池茶进行了分辨。 When I read Mr. Wang Jiaju's "The Food of Gusu", there was an article entitled "Thea sinensis" which talked about the tea of Huqiu, and he carried out a lot of examinations, and he distinguished the tea of Huqiu from the tea of Tianchi.

我才知道明代以后虎丘茶与天池茶是间种的，当地人多用天池茶来冒充虎丘茶。 I realized that after the Ming Dynasty, Huqiu tea and Tianchi tea is interplanted, the local people use Tianchi tea to pretend to be Huqiu tea.

我们吃完中饭，就去虎丘景区游玩。 After we finished our lunch, we went to visit the Tiger Hill scenic spot.

我们主要是参观云岩寺塔和剑池两个景点。 We mainly visit two sites, Yunyan Temple Pagoda and Sword Pond.

结束后，知道还有陆羽井和虎丘茶园，我们就去景区寻找这两个地方。 When we finished, knowing that there was still Lu Yu Well and Huqiu Tea Garden, we went to the scenic area to look for these two places.

我们在虎丘山上找到了那口石井，相传为陆羽所挖。 We found the stone well on Tiger Hill, rumored to have been dug by Lu Yu.

据《苏州府志》记载，陆羽曾长期寓居吴县虎丘一带，他一边研究全国各地的茶叶，一边著述《茶经》一书，并把甘甜可口的虎丘山泉评为天下第三泉。 According to "Suzhou Province" records, Lu Yu had a long-term residence in Wu County, Huqiu area, he studied tea across the country, while writing the book "Tea Classic", and the sweet and tasty Huqiu mountain springs rated as the world's third spring.

虎丘茶园即云在茶香景点，在离剑池不远的虎皇西部虎丘寺附近。 Huqiu tea garden that clouds in the tea scent attractions, not far from the sword pool in the western Hu Huang Huqiu Temple near.

以寺为中心有一小块茶园，两面有竹林挟持，屈居其中。 There is a small tea plantation centered on the temple, held hostage by bamboo forests on two sides, yielding to it.

园地很小，不到十亩。 The garden is small, less than ten acres.

茶树零星地长在香樟树底下，有种高低配合的感觉，它们安静而寂寞地长在那里，等待游客来观赏。 Tea trees grow sporadically under the balsam fir trees in a kind of high-low match, and they grow there quietly and lonely, waiting for tourists to come to see them.

这片茶园由虎丘寺僧来管理和护理。 This tea plantation is managed and cared for by the monks of Huchu Monastery.

茶树多由野生茶改植而来，也有1989年种植的白云茶树等。 Most of the tea trees are converted from wild tea, but there are also white cloud tea trees planted in 1989 and so on.

我游完景点，心想，没准我中午喝的这杯茶就是来自这里的呢，这该是一种怎样奇妙的缘分呀！南京是六朝古都，仕林文化、茶文化都很丰富，南京从唐代起盛产茶叶。 I finished touring the attractions, thinking, maybe the cup of tea I drank at noon is from here, what kind of marvelous destiny it is! Nanjing is the ancient capital of the six dynasties, Shilin culture, tea culture are very rich, Nanjing from the Tang Dynasty onwards tea production.

《茶经》有记载，陆羽曾到南京栖霞寺采茶，那古迹至今还在。 It is recorded in the Tea Scripture that Lu Yu once went to the Qixia Temple in Nanjing to pick tea, and that monument still exists today.

明清时期，南京人用缸瓮收集雨水。 During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Nanjing people used tanks and urns to collect rainwater.

文人雅士到古迹名胜游玩以品尝雨水烹茶为雨集，成为南京茶文化的鼎盛时期。 Literati to the monuments and attractions to taste the rain cooking tea for the rain set, become the heyday of tea culture in Nanjing.

清末民初，南京牛首山、栖霞山、五台山、钟山均有名茶。 At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, Nanjing Niushoushan, Qixia Mountain, Wutai Mountain, Zhongshan have famous tea.

钟山云雾茶有“取山中一勺泉之水，拾山上之松毯，煮而食之，舌本生津，任何茶不能及也”。 Zhongshan Yunwu tea has "take a spoonful of spring water in the mountain, pick up the pine carpet on the mountain, cook and eat, tongue this Tianjin, any tea can not and also".

2006年五一期间，我到南京。 During May 1, 2006, I traveled to Nanjing.

我去的地方很少，只去了南京大学的赛珍珠故居和中山陵，陪我一起去的是南京理工大学的老师顾欣先生。 I went to very few places, only to Sai Zhenzhu's former residence at Nanjing University and the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, accompanied by Mr. Gu Xin, a teacher at Nanjing University of Technology.

我们坐公交车从南京理工大学出发，前往中山陵。 We took a bus from Nanjing University of Technology to Zhongshan Mausoleum.

开始是说些文友的事情，到了中山陵，顾欣就给我介绍中山陵，从牌坊、墓道、陵门、石阶、碑亭、祭堂到墓室，甚至每一棵有故事的花草树木及每块石头，他的叙说带有很强的文史性和知识性，引经据典，我非常喜欢听。 The beginning is to say something about the literati, to the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, Gu Xin introduced me to the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, from the plaque, tomb road, mausoleum door, stone steps, pavilion, the altar to the crypt, and even every story of the flowers and trees and every stone, his narrative with a very strong literary and historical and intellectual, quoting from the classics, I very much like to listen to.

中山陵从牌坊到祭堂全是石阶，共有392级，有8个平台，分成8段。 The Zhongshan Mausoleum is full of stone steps from the pagoda to the sacrificial hall, with a total of 392 steps and 8 platforms divided into 8 sections.

前面5段，我走得很快，慢慢地就走得腿发软，膝盖打颤了，有些喘。 For the first 5 sections, I walked fast and slowly got weak in the legs, my knees were shaking and I was panting a bit.

顾欣向我说起雨花台，介绍了江南第二泉、纪念碑廊、忠魂亭、烈士纪念馆等景点，还给我介绍了特产雨花茶。 Gu Xin told me about Yuhuatai, introduced the Second Spring in Jiangnan, the Monument Gallery, the Loyalty Pavilion, the Martyrs' Memorial Hall and other attractions, and also introduced me to the specialty Yuhua Tea.

雨花台茶园位于陵园西南部，占地68亩，是20世纪50年代引种的。 Located in the southwestern part of the Mausoleum, the Yuhuatai Tea Garden covers an area of 68 acres and was introduced in the 1950s.

顾欣又告诉我，雨花茶在中山陵附近也种植了，他站起来指着石阶下的那些茶园给我看。 Gu Xin also told me that rainbow tea was also grown near the Zhongshan Mausoleum, and he stood up and pointed to those tea gardens at the bottom of the stone steps to show me.

雨花茶为炒青绿茶，在清明前十天开采，只采到清明节为止，先采一芽一叶芽茶，最多采到一芽三叶的绿茶。 Rain tea for fried green tea, in the Qingming ten days before the mining, only picked until the Qingming Festival, first picking a bud of one leaf bud tea, up to a bud of three leaves of green tea.

经过杀青、揉捻，整形干燥制成。 After killing, kneading, shaping and drying made.

炒茶必须是手涂乌柏油在锅里徒手炒作，不能借助任何器具。 Stir-frying tea must be hand-coated with ubiquitous oil in a wok with bare hands, without the aid of any utensils.

干茶为细嫩针状，成为中国茶叶三针之一。 The dried tea is in the shape of a fine needle, making it one of the three needles of Chinese tea.

我们参观完中山陵，也累了。 We were also tired after visiting the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum.

因为下午还要参观位于南京大学北园的赛珍珠故居，我们坐公交车回市区，到南京大学站下车。 Since we had to visit Sai Zhenzhu's former residence in the North Park of Nanjing University in the afternoon, we took a bus back to the city and got off at the Nanjing University station.

在离赛珍珠故居不远的一条小巷里，有一些餐馆。 There are some restaurants in an alley not far from Pearl Sai's home.

顾欣在南京大学读书的时候常来这里吃饭，他毕业后，也常来这里玩，对每家餐馆都很熟悉。 Gu Xin often came here to eat when he was a student at Nanjing University, and after he graduated, he often came here to hang out, so he was familiar with every restaurant.

他特意选择了一家有雨花茶的餐馆。 He purposely chose a restaurant with rainbow tea.

我们点了南京盐水鸭、锅巴菜等，顾欣特意嘱咐服务员来两杯雨花茶。 We ordered Nanking salt water duck and pot roast, etc. Gu Xin specially instructed the waiter to have two cups of rainbow tea.

服务员用玻璃杯泡好茶，把玻璃杯拿茶盘端了送到我们桌前。 The waiter made tea in a glass and brought the glass to our table on a tea tray.

顾欣为了让我看真切雨花茶的模样，他要服务员拿些没有泡水的干茶来。 In order for Gu Xin to show me what real rain tea looks like, he asked the waiter to bring some dry tea that hadn't been steeped.

我看到成品雨花茶，呈墨绿色，绿里透着银光，形似松针，条索紧直浑圆，两端略尖，锋苗挺秀，茸毫隐露。 I saw the finished product rain tea, dark green, green with silver, shaped like pine needles, straight and round, slightly pointed at both ends, the front of the seedling quite show, velvet hair hidden.

我一闻它的香气，浓郁高雅，沁人心脾。 As soon as I smelled its aroma, it was rich, elegant and refreshing.

玻璃杯里的雨花茶茶芽直立、上下沉浮，像一排针箭。 The rain tea buds in the glass cup are upright, sinking up and down like a row of pin arrows.

三五分钟，茶芽泡开，在杯里犹如翡翠，清香四溢，神清气爽。 In three to five minutes, the tea buds are steeped, as if they were emeralds in the cup, with a refreshing aroma.

再看杯里的茶汤，碧绿清澈。 Then look at the tea soup in the cup, turquoise and clear.

再看叶底，嫩匀明亮。 Look at the bottom of the leaf, it is tender and even and bright.

我端起茶杯，轻轻喝了一口，那滋味鲜醇，回味甘甜，不涩不苦。 I picked up the cup of tea, gently sipped, the taste of fresh, sweet aftertaste, not astringent and not bitter.

顾欣向我介绍，雨花茶以紧、直、绿、匀为特色，外形圆绿，条索紧直，锋苗挺秀，带有白毫，犹如松针。 Gu Xin introduced to me, Yu Hua tea is characterized by tight, straight, green, uniform, round green shape, straight, straight, sharp, with white hair, like pine needles.

茶农在取名的时候，希望它象征革命先烈坚贞不屈、万古长青，因故命名为雨花茶。 When the tea farmers named it, they hoped that it would symbolize the steadfastness of the revolutionary martyrs and last forever, so it was named Rainflower Tea.

年幼时，我就爱上了品茶。 At a young age, I fell in love with tea tasting.

家乡产茶，也有很好的泉水，泡出的茶有甘甜的味道。 Tea is produced in my hometown, and there is also a very good spring, which gives the tea a sweet flavor.

长大后，我向往全国各地的名茶，因此常年游走在外。 Growing up, I longed for famous teas from all over the country, so I traveled a lot.

成年时到长沙，开始品味铁观音、岳阳银针、人参乌龙、碧螺春等，长沙还有麓山泉、白沙泉、怀沙泉等名水，泡的茶水非常香甜可口。 When he came to Changsha as an adult, he began to savor Tieguanyin, Yueyang Silver Needle, Ginseng Oolong, Biluochun, etc. Changsha also has famous water such as Lushan Spring, Baishazhajuan and Huaisazhazhajuan, etc., which makes the tea very sweet and tasty.

长沙也有很多茶馆，闲暇时，我常与三五好友去品功夫茶。 Changsha also has many teahouses, and in my spare time, I often go with three or five friends to enjoy kung fu tea.

2007年1月，我从长沙去西北，到兰州出差。 In January 2007, I traveled from Changsha to the Northwest, to Lanzhou on business.

好友带我去马大胡子羊羔肉店吃蒸羊排，喝了一种八宝盖碗茶，记忆深刻。 A good friend took me to Ma Da Bei's Lamb Restaurant for steamed lamb chops and a kind of Eight Treasures Gai Bowl Tea, which I remember fondly.

八宝盖碗茶是兰州的一大特产，由绿茶、冰糖、桂圆、大枣组成。 Eight Treasures Gai Bowl Tea is a specialty of Lanzhou, consisting of green tea, rock sugar, cinnamon and jujubes.

但是，这些原料选择却非常严格：冰糖不能用其他的糖类代替。 However, the choice of these ingredients is very strict: icing sugar cannot be replaced by other sugars.

八宝盖碗茶的碗只有拳头大，冰糖块不能大于碗底。 The bowl for Eight Treasures Gaiwan Tea is only as big as your fist, and the icing sugar cubes should not be larger than the bottom of the bowl.

绿茶需清明前茶，即两叶一针的茶叶，并且成色要绿。 Green tea needs to be pre-Ching Ming Dynasty tea, i.e., tea with two leaves and one needle, and the color should be green.

桂圆需圆润、颗大，外壳完整、饱满，成色纯黄。 Cinnamon should be round, large, with a complete, full shell and pure yellow color.

大枣即红枣，需要颗粒长形的王村枣，还要每颗完好无损、没虫病等。 Jujubes, i.e. red jujubes, need to be long and granular Wangchun jujubes, and each one should be intact and free of insects and diseases.

泡茶之水须黄河水，黄河水要用铁壶在铁板煤火上烧烤，边喝边续水，保持一定的水温。 The water for making tea must be Yellow River water, which should be barbecued in an iron pot on an iron plate coal fire, and the water should be refilled while drinking to maintain a certain water temperature.

喝茶也有讲究，不要揭开碗盖，只留一条小缝，露出醇香的茶水。 There are also rules for drinking tea. Don't uncover the lid of the bowl, leave only a small slit to reveal the mellow tea.

喝时托起底盘，拇指括着碗盖，口对缝隙轻轻吸，茶水沿嘴唇缓缓流入口里，舌尖慢慢品味茶的芳香和醇正。 When you drink it, lift up the bottom plate, thumb bracketed by the bowl cover, mouth to the gap gently suck, tea along the lips slowly into the mouth, the tongue slowly taste the aroma of tea and mellow.

续水时把碗盖插于托盘与杯的夹缝，加水后马上括盖，以保水温。 Insert the lid of the bowl between the tray and the cup when refilling, and bracket the lid immediately after adding water to keep the water warm.

八宝盖碗茶的味道需要慢慢地渗透，才能把味道泡出来，品茶也不宜狂饮，只能小口小口地啜。 The flavor of Eight Treasures Gaiwan Tea needs to penetrate slowly in order to soak out the flavor, and it is not advisable to drink wildly, but only to sip it in small bites.

刚泡的茶很淡，没有任何味道；稍过一阵，茶叶的味道透出来，水微涩，有大枣的味道；再泡，桂圆香漂起，水微甜；接着，甜味上升；稍等，茶叶的清香飘起；又后，茶、冰糖、桂圆、大枣的味道俱全；最后，才是八宝盖碗茶的真正味道，既清香又不失甘甜。 Just brewed tea is very light, there is no flavor; a little after a while, the flavor of the tea leaves come through, the water is slightly astringent, there is the taste of jujubes; then steep, cinnamon aroma floats up, the water is slightly sweet; then the sweetness rises; wait a little, the tea's clear aroma floats up; and then, the taste of tea, icing sugar, cinnamon, jujubes are full; finally, it is the eight treasures gaiwan tea's real taste, both fragrant and not lose the sweetness.

在兰州喝八宝盖碗茶是马大胡子羊羔肉店的一道特色。 Drinking Eight Treasures Gai Bowl Tea in Lanzhou is a specialty of Ma Da Bei's Lamb and Meat Restaurant.

但是，我认为，如果要喝八宝盖碗茶，就应该找几个志同道合的朋友，边聊天边喝茶，那就更有一番滋味。 However, I think that if you want to drink Eight Treasures Gai Bowl Tea, you should find a few like-minded friends and drink tea while chatting.

在青海旅游，饭店里常见一种红色的茶水，喝起来有咸咸的味道，那就是青海有名的茯茶。 When traveling in Qinghai, it is common to see a kind of red tea in the restaurants, which has a salty taste, that is the famous Por Tea in Qinghai.

茯茶产于湖南益阳，是一种粗茶，由红茶做成。 Produced in Yiyang, Hunan Province, coca tea is a coarse tea, made from black tea.

茶摘过清明前的两叶一心后，雨水时便不再采摘茶叶，新叶迅猛生长，到阳历八月，有五六叶，每叶大如巴掌，茎叶尺来长。 Tea picked before the Qingming two leaves a heart, the rain will no longer pick tea, the new leaves grow rapidly, to the solar calendar in August, there are five or six leaves, each leaf as large as a palm, the stem and leaves feet to long.

摘时一般用弯刀或者镰刀一把一把抢割，切断后再用揉茶机揉碾，发汗后压成砖块状，烤干，运往青海、新疆等地发售。 Picked generally with a machete or sickle a handful of grab cut, cut off and then kneaded with a tea machine kneading and grinding, sweating and then pressed into a brick shape, baked, shipped to Qinghai, Xinjiang and other places for sale.

青海属于高原地带，蔬菜生长受到很大的限制。 Qinghai belongs to the plateau zone, and vegetable growth is greatly restricted.

特别是冬天，想吃一口蔬菜很不容易。 Especially in winter, it's hard to get a bite of vegetables.

除了家里自制的泡菜，就是吃肉。 Other than homemade kimchi at home, it's all about the meat.

而肉吃多了会感到油腻，也容易影响消化，需喝点解油腻的茶水，青海人就喝茯茶来解腻、去骚、护肤（防御紫外线）等。 And meat eat more will feel greasy, but also easy to affect the digestion, need to drink a bit of greasy tea, Qinghai people drink Por Tea to relieve greasy, go tart, skin care (defense against ultraviolet rays) and so on.

医学上说，茯茶有去油脂油腻、降血压血脂、生津止渴、解酒等作用，还有降血糖和抗衰老等功效。 Medical science says that Por Tea has the effect of removing grease and oil, lowering blood pressure and blood lipids, quenching thirst and quenching alcohol, as well as lowering blood sugar and anti-aging effects.

这茶就是久负盛名的茯茶，也是湖南人说的红茶。 This tea is the prestigious Por Tea, also known as black tea in Hunan.

青海人喝茶喜欢色浓味涩，也就是湖南人所说的浓茶。 Qinghai people like to drink tea with strong color and astringent taste, which is what Hunan people call strong tea.

青海人不像湖南人那样喜欢喝新茶，他们喜欢的是陈茶、老茶。 Qinghai people don't like new tea like Hunan people, they like aged and old tea.

由于青海不产茶，喝茶靠在集市上买，茶叶买回来放在家里搁一段时间，再拿出来喝，他们喝的不是茶的香和清淡，而是茶的涩味以及年份。 Because Qinghai does not produce tea, tea by buying in the bazaar, tea bought back at home to put aside for a period of time, and then take out to drink, they are not drinking the aroma and light tea, but the astringency of the tea as well as the year.

茯茶是青海人冬天熬制的茶（那是以前的习惯，其实一年四季都有），红色，有油脂状感觉，暖融融的，还有点咸和花椒味。 Porcha is a tea boiled by Qinghai people in winter (that was the custom in the old days, in fact, it is available all year round), red in color, with a greasy feeling, warm and melting, and a little salty and peppery flavor.

煮茯茶与其他的茶不同，其他茶先烧开水，水开后放入洗干净的茶叶即可。 Boiling Por Tea is different from other teas, other teas boil water first, when the water boils, put in the cleaned tea leaves.

煮茯茶不仅要放茯茶叶，还要加入红枣、桂圆、枸杞、核桃、冰糖、盐、花椒等物，用文火慢慢熬，待汁浓味甜，诸味俱现，才能停火。 Cooking Por Tea not only to put Por Tea leaves, but also add red dates, cinnamon, wolfberries, walnuts, rock sugar, salt, pepper and other things, slowly simmering over a gentle fire, to be the juice is thick and sweet, all the flavors are present in order to cease fire.

一般熬好一锅茯茶要数小时，因为熬茶加入了诸物，再不像单独的茶水一样清爽，而本身就带着一股油味。 Generally boil a pot of Por Tea to a few hours, because boiling tea to join the plurality of things, and then not as refreshing as the tea alone, but itself carries a flavor of oil.

但是，茯茶又解油腻、油脂，是很好的止腻之物，也是促进食物消化的好茶水。 However, Por Tea also detoxifies grease and oil, making it a good stopper for grease and a good tea to promote food digestion.

初上青藏高原吃羊肉，客人要多喝点茯茶：一是可以缓解油腻感，二是缓解水土不服，清洗肠道里多余的油脂。 First time on the Tibetan Plateau to eat mutton, guests should drink more Por Tea: one can relieve the greasy feeling, and the other is to ease the water and soil, cleaning the intestinal tract of excess oil and grease.

作为一个到青海旅行的人来说，要想接受青海的食物和生活习惯，首先要从接受青海的茯茶开始，才可以进一步了解青海的饮食。 As a traveler to Qinghai, the first place to start in order to accept the food and habits of Qinghai is to accept the Porch Tea of Qinghai before you can learn more about the food and drink of Qinghai.

茯茶是根据“附茶”的谐音发展而来的。 Por Tea is developed from the harmonic sound of "attached tea".

唐代开始，在丝绸之路上，中原和边疆就开始进行茶叶交易。 Since the Tang Dynasty, tea has been traded between the Central Plains and the frontier along the Silk Road.

当时，茶叶由官方控制，把这种销往边疆的茶叫边销茶，贮存在边地府库，主要换取中原人需要的马匹。 At that time, tea by the official control, the sale of this tea to the border called border tea, stored in the border treasury, mainly in exchange for horses needed by the Central Plains.

而中原的茶叶由茶商贩运到边疆，再由茶马司统一交易，茶商须向户部纳税请领执照，时称“请引”。 Tea from the Central Plains by the tea merchants trafficked to the border, and then by the Tea Division of the unified transactions, tea merchants must be taxed to the Ministry of Households to receive a license, known as the "please quote".

每“引”可贩茶100斤，纳税200钱；不及“引”者，谓之“畸零”，另发“由贴”。 Each "cited" can be traded tea 100 pounds, tax 200 money; less than "cited", called "abnormal zero", another "by the sticker The "cited" ones are called "abnormal zero" and issued another "by posting".

无“由引”及茶引者即为“私茶”。 Without "by the guide" and tea guide is "private tea".

当时朝廷为了鼓励茶商贩运茶叶去边疆交易马匹，增加骑兵所需，允许附茶。 At that time, the court allowed the attachment of tea in order to encourage tea merchants to traffic tea to the border to trade horses and increase the need for cavalry.

上引附茶700斤，中引560斤，下引420斤，作为朝廷的奖励酬劳，由茶商自己出售换马。 The upper cited attached tea 700 catties, the middle cited 560 catties, and the lower cited 420 catties, as a reward reward for the court, by the tea merchants themselves to sell for horses.

附茶是有别于正茶（即交割的茶）之外附发给茶商的奖励，茶商称为“附茶”。 Attached tea is different from the main tea (i.e., delivery of tea) attached to the reward issued to tea traders, tea traders called "attached tea".

而这些茶叶主要卖给边疆老百姓，从此，茯茶之说就流传至今。 And these teas are mainly sold to the border people, from then on, Por Tea said that it has been passed down to the present day.

我在青海喝过两次茯茶，就喜欢上了茯茶，我发现茯茶除了有茶味、甜味，还有花椒等味，青海人把它当成一种高原饮料，慢慢地品饮，可以消磨时间，也可以缓减高原的干燥，并可生津，防止喉咙干燥。 I drank Por Tea twice in Qinghai and fell in love with Por Tea. I found that Por Tea not only has tea flavor and sweetness, but also has flavors such as pepper, etc. People in Qinghai treat it as a kind of highland drink and sip it slowly to pass the time and ease the dryness of the plateau, as well as to generate fluids to prevent dryness of the throat.

现在回味起茯茶，很想再品一次。 Now that I look back on Por Tea, I would love to taste it again.

我到敦煌旅游，去鸣沙山月牙泉时，喝到一种长生不老茶——罗布麻茶，印象深刻。 I traveled to Dunhuang and was impressed when I went to the Crescent Spring at Mingsha Mountain and drank a kind of immortality tea, rooibos tea.

鸣沙山月牙泉位于敦煌城南五公里处，东起莫高窟崖顶，西接党河水库，由细米粒状黄沙堆积而成，轻风拂过，声音似管弦丝竹。 Mingsha Mountain Crescent Spring is located five kilometers south of Dunhuang City, east of the Mogao Grottoes cliff tops, west of the Party River Reservoir, by the accumulation of fine granular yellow sand from the light wind, the sound of the sound like strings and silk bamboo.

月牙泉在鸣沙山的环抱中，酷似一轮新月，泉水清澈明丽，千年不涸。 Crescent Spring in the embrace of the Mingsha Mountain, resembling a round of crescent moon, the spring water is clear and bright, not dry for a thousand years.

月牙泉有三宝，铁背鱼、五色沙、七星草，我都见识过。 I've seen the three treasures of Lunar Spring, the ironback fish, the five-colored sand, and the seven-star grass.

鸣沙山的沙子有红、黄、绿、白、黑五色，装在玻璃瓶里非常美丽，很多游客都会带一瓶回家。 The sand at Mingsha Mountain comes in five colors: red, yellow, green, white and black, and is so beautiful in glass bottles that many visitors take a bottle home with them.

传说铁背鱼和七星草一起吃，能长生不老，我却有些不信，铁背鱼是月牙泉的鱼，七星草就是我喝过的罗布麻茶。 Legend has it that iron back fish and seven star grass eaten together, can live forever, but I'm a little unconvinced, iron back fish is the fish of the crescent moon springs, seven star grass is the rooibos tea I drank.

月牙泉南岸，有种独特的小红花，叫罗布红麻，每年六至八月盛开，似夜幕中的繁星点点，也叫七星草。 The south shore of the crescent moon spring, there is a unique small red flowers, called Robb red hemp, blooming every year from June to August, like the stars in the night, also known as the seven star grass.

敦煌西南76公里的罗布泊东缘的南湖，盛产野麻，南湖人叫碗碗花，他们喝罗布麻茶，吃葡萄，不感冒。 South Lake, 76 kilometers southwest of Dunhuang, on the eastern edge of the Lop Nor, abounds in wild hemp, South Lake people called the bowl of flowers, they drink rooibos tea, eat grapes, do not catch a cold.

汉武帝时张骞出使西域三十六国，除了打通西域的交通外，还有一项特殊任务：到西域探求长寿不老药。 Zhang Qian's mission to the 36 countries in the Western Regions during the reign of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, in addition to opening up transportation in the Western Regions, had a special task: to explore the Western Regions for longevity medicine.

张骞不负重托，到楼兰古国，即罗布泊，楼兰国王献给汉武帝特殊贡品——以罗布麻研制的长寿不老药丸。 Zhang Qian lived up to his responsibility and traveled to the ancient country of Loulan, or Lop Nur, where the king of Loulan offered a special tribute to Emperor Wu of Han - a longevity pill developed from Lop Nur.

汉武帝服用长寿药后，活到71岁，是我国历史上第一位超过70岁的皇帝。 Emperor Wu of Han lived to the age of 71 after taking a longevity pill, making him the first emperor in the history of China to be over 70 years old.

古罗布泊地区，最古老的土著人叫罗布人，他们逐水而居，穿罗布麻衣服、喝罗布麻茶、吃罗布麻粉、抽罗布麻烟，都很长寿。 Ancient Lop Nor region, the oldest indigenous people called Lop people, they live by the water, wear Lop clothes, drink Lop tea, eat Lop powder, smoke Lop smoke, are very long life.

现在罗布泊地区的百岁老人占全国的四分之一，被国际自然医学界认定为全世界第四个长寿区。 The Lop Nor region now accounts for a quarter of the country's centenarians and has been recognized by the international natural medicine community as the world's fourth longevity zone.

罗布泊人不吃水果蔬菜，不食咸盐，缺医少药，却很少生病，都非常健康，这得益于大漠神物罗布麻茶。 Lobo people do not eat fruits and vegetables, do not eat salt, lack of medicine, but rarely sick, are very healthy, thanks to the desert God thing Lobo tea.

常年饮用罗布麻茶，可调节血压、延缓衰老、延年益寿。 Drinking rooibos tea year-round can regulate blood pressure, slow down aging and prolong life.

罗布麻在敦煌以天然野生为主，又名野麻、茶叶花、碗碗花，敦煌周边的阿克塞哈萨克族称“塔拉特儿”、肃北蒙古族称“赛尔里奥尔斯”、新疆维吾尔族称“哈拉其干”。 Lobelia in Dunhuang to natural wild mainly, also known as wild hemp, tea flowers, bowl flowers, Dunhuang around the Akse Kazakhs called "Talat Er", Su Bei Mongolians called "Sairi Ours", Xinjiang Uygur called " Harakigan".

罗布麻主要生长在罗布泊范围内的塔里木河、孔雀河、疏勒河沿岸，北方其他地区也有分布，罗布泊内的罗布麻最好，有效成分高。 Lobelia mainly grows in the range of Lobelia Tarim River, Peacock River, Shule River along the coast, other areas in the north are also distributed, Lobelia within the best Lobelia, the active ingredient is high.

敦煌罗布麻分红麻和白麻，红麻的槲皮素、芸香甙、三萜比白麻含量高，而且稀少珍贵，为麻中极品。 Dunhuang rooibos hemp is divided into red hemp and white hemp, red hemp quercetin, rue glucoside, triterpenes than white hemp content is high, and rare and precious, for the best of hemp.

敦煌罗布麻茶用优质野生罗布麻嫩叶为原料，剔除枯黄、虫眼、锈斑叶、粗梗及其他杂质，冷水洗净，减少碱性成分，摊晒，水分散发，叶与叶黏连，用平底锅将沙加热，达180～200℃,投入嫩叶；再用两个木叉翻动，迅速灵敏，不住抖开，杀青均匀，不焦，叶脉柔软不断，置竹笸箩内摊晾片刻，揉成条索状，固定成型，置锅内再炒，温度在120～140℃;炒到颜色由浅变为黑绿色即成，放80～90℃烘箱中烤干，即成炒青罗布麻茶。 Dunhuang rooibos tea with high-quality wild rooibos young leaves as raw materials, remove withered yellow, insect eyes, rust spots leaves, coarse stalks and other impurities, cold water wash, reduce alkaline components, spreading sun, moisture emanation, leaf and leaf adhesion, with a pan will be heated up, up to 180 ~ 200 ° C, into the young leaves; and then two wooden fork turning, rapid sensitivity, do not live to shake open, kill the green uniformly, do not scorch, the leaf veins are soft and continuous, placed in a bamboo colander stalls Drying for a moment, kneaded into a rope-like, fixed molding, placed in the pot and then fried, the temperature at 120 ~ 140 ℃; fried to the color from light to black-green that is, put 80 ~ 90 ℃ oven drying, that is, into the fried green rooibos tea.

罗布麻茶经过杀青、烘炒、配制、喷料，保持其药性，兼具饮茶、祛病、延年益寿的特性，同时又是弱碱性茶。 Rooibos tea is killed, baked and fried, prepared and sprayed to maintain its medicinal properties, and has the characteristics of drinking tea, dispelling diseases and prolonging life, and at the same time, it is a weak alkaline tea.

罗布麻茶不含咖啡因，无茶叶苦味，口味淡，稍有异味。 Rooibos tea does not contain caffeine, no tea bitterness, light flavor, slightly off-flavor.

《三国志·华佗列传》载，罗布麻是神医华佗主治眩晕症、延年益寿的传世方剂。 In "Three Kingdoms Zhi - Hua Tuo Lie Zhuan", Luobu Ma is the heirloom prescription of Hua Tuo, the divine doctor, to treat vertigo and prolong life.

《本草纲目》载，罗布麻有平心悸、止眩晕、消痰止咳、强心利尿的功能。 The Compendium of Materia Medica contains the functions of calming palpitations, stopping dizziness, eliminating phlegm and relieving cough, and strengthening the heart and diuresis.

当地人将罗布麻纤维纺织成衣，常用于治疗头晕、感冒。 Locals weave rooibos fibers into clothing, often used to treat dizziness and colds.

罗布麻还可以制成其他茶类，用罗布麻茶与啤酒花可制成罗布酒花茶；罗布麻叶加4％的咖啡因可制成罗布咖啡茶；罗布麻茶与珍眉绿茶按二比一的比例可制成罗布珍眉茶；罗布麻茶与茉莉花茶按十比七的比例可制成郁香罗布麻茶；罗布麻茶加可可粉、蔗糖粉制成强化罗布麻茶。 Rooibos can also be made of other teas, with rooibos tea and hops can be made of rooibos wine flower tea; rooibos leaves plus 4% of the caffeine can be made of rooibos coffee tea; rooibos tea and jasmine green tea according to the ratio of two to one can be made of rooibos jumbo tea; rooibos tea and jasmine tea according to the ratio of ten to seven can be made of lush rooibos tea; rooibos tea plus cocoa powder, powdered sugar made of fortified rooibos tea.

优质罗布麻茶有股清香的干草味，常闻头脑清醒，入口清香略咸；劣质罗布麻茶有股呛鼻的干草味，常闻头脑发晕，入口涩苦。 High-quality rooibos tea has a fragrant hay flavor, often smell the mind awake, the entrance is fragrant and slightly salty; low-quality rooibos tea has a choking hay flavor, often smell dizziness, the entrance is astringent and bitter.

罗布麻茶刚冲泡好后，茶汤为带点黄的绿色，优质罗布麻茶的茶汤很快会变成金黄色，劣质罗布麻茶的茶汤色则不变。 Rooibos tea just after brewing, the tea broth for the green with a little yellow, high-quality rooibos tea tea broth will soon become a golden yellow, low-quality rooibos tea tea broth color is unchanged.

罗布麻茶分整叶茶、袋泡茶两种。 There are two types of rooibos tea: whole leaf tea and bagged tea.

我在敦煌旅居的两个月里，习惯了喝罗布麻茶，每天提着一杯茶，满沙漠跑，直到落日渐渐沉下去，才依依不舍回到住处。 I live in Dunhuang in two months, used to drink rooibos tea, every day carrying a cup of tea, running all over the desert, until the sunset gradually sinking, only reluctant to return to the residence.

要说宝鸡最地道的美食或者说最脆爽的美食，很多朋友都会毫不迟疑地告诉你，那就是油面茶酥或者说宝鸡茶酥。 When it comes to the most authentic food or the crunchiest food in Baoji, many of your friends will tell you without hesitation that it is the oil noodle tea pastry or Baoji tea pastry.

不管是油面茶酥还是宝鸡茶酥，都不是宝鸡市区的特产，而是凤县的土特产，为凤县人发明和食用，后来逐渐传到宝鸡，所以大家干脆叫它宝鸡茶酥，成为宝鸡的一张美食名片。 Whether it's oil tea cake or Baoji tea cake, it's not a specialty of Baoji city, but a local specialty of Fengxian County, which was invented and consumed by people in Fengxian County, and then gradually spread to Baoji, so people simply call it Baoji tea cake, which has become a gourmet business card of Baoji.

茶酥本来是当地的一种小吃，一度没有名字，吃起来“外嚓里酥”，宝鸡方言“嚓”是形容入口脆酥的声音，所以当地人就叫它“嚓酥”，多用在饮茶的时候，成为茶酥。 Tea cake was originally a local snack, once no name, eat up "outside the chow inside the crisp", Baoji dialect "chow" is to describe the entrance to the sound of crispy, so the locals called it "chow crisp! ", more often used in tea time, become a tea cake.

宝鸡当地人在明代以前很少有喝茶的习惯，自从武夷山茶进入西北牧区之后，必然会在陕西境内停留一段时间，并沿着丝绸之路向甘肃、青海、宁夏、新疆以及俄罗斯等地运输、贩卖，宝鸡及其辖区的人才慢慢有了喝茶解油腻的习惯。 Baoji locals in the Ming Dynasty before very few tea habits, since Wuyishan tea into the Northwest Pastoral Region, will inevitably stay in Shaanxi territory for a period of time, and along the Silk Road to Gansu, Qinghai, Ningxia, Xinjiang, and Russia and other places of transportation, trafficking, Baoji and its jurisdictions only slowly have the habit of drinking tea to relieve the grease.

特别是左宗棠任陕甘总督的时候，他整改陕西茶叶市场，湖南黑茶大量进入陕西，并且在泾阳县将散茶压制成为茶砖，方便运输。 Especially when Zuo Zongtang served as governor of Shaanxi and Gansu, he rectified the tea market in Shaanxi, Hunan black tea entered Shaanxi in large quantities, and pressed loose tea into tea bricks in Jingyang County to facilitate transportation.

凤县人沾染了喝茶的习气之后，就要以香茶为饮，以其他点心来噎茶。 After the people of Fengxian County got into the habit of drinking tea, they had to use fragrant tea as their drink and choke on it with other snacks.

亲戚朋友上门来的时候，就要开茶会，大家聚在一起喝茶，那就更需要点心噎茶。 When relatives and friends come to your door, you have to have a tea party, and everyone gets together to drink tea, and that's all the more reason why you need Dim Sum Choke Tea.

咸丰年间，凤县的茶点需求越来越大，当地没有特色的茶点，只有晋商贩卖茶叶时从山西携带来的瓜子和花生等。 During the Xianfeng period, the demand for refreshments in Fengxian grew, and there were no local specialties, only melon seeds and peanuts, etc., which were carried from Shanxi when Jin merchants sold tea.

当地一位年轻人叫秃娃，给人家做帮工，学过白案的厨师，揉过面、做过馒头。 A local young man named Baldwa, who worked as a helper for others, learned to be a cook in the white case, kneaded and made steamed buns.

一天做完帮工，案头上还剩下一小坨面，他总惦记着喝茶的时候没有点心噎茶，想自己做点噎茶的点心，但是面不多，做馒头还蒸不成一笼，只够做两三个卷子，又不知怎么把它们弄熟。 One day after doing help, there is still a small pile of flour left on the desk, he always thought of drinking tea without snacks to choke tea, want to do some of their own tea to choke snacks, but not much flour, do steamed bread can not steam a cage, only enough to do two or three rolls, and do not know how to make them cooked.

灶上正好还有一锅热油，是红案用来炸鱼炸肉的，还没有收拾好，他就把面团捏成卷子形状，投入热油中炸，炸的时间稍长了点，卷子炸透了，又酥又脆。 There happened to be another pot of hot oil on the stove, which was used by Red Case to fry fish and meat, and it hadn't been cleaned up yet, so he pinched the dough into the shape of a roll and threw it into the hot oil to deep fry it for a little bit longer, and the rolls were fried through, crispy and crunchy.

晚上与人聚会喝茶的时候，他拿出油炸卷子与人分享，朋友们见它色、香、味、型俱佳，就问秃娃这道美食的名字。 In the evening when he met with people for tea, he took out his deep-fried rolls to share with them, and when his friends saw that it had excellent color, aroma, taste and shape, they asked Baldwa the name of this delicacy.

秃娃随口道：“茶酥”，意思是喝茶时的酥脆点心。 Baldwa blurted out, "Tea Crisp," meaning a crunchy snack for tea.

外人以为是秃娃发明的茶酥，就干脆叫它“秃娃茶酥”。 Outsiders thought it was the invention of tea cakes, simply called it "Baldy tea cakes".

秃娃为了对得起这个名号，不停地对油炸卷子进行改良，确定为以面粉、猪板油、菜籽油、豆沙、绿茶外加佐料，以水面和烫面相合加入特制板油泥，用手反复揉捏使面油融合，将面团拍薄成椭圆形，用三扇鏊的木炭火上烤下烙，加油煎、烘烤而成。 Baldwa in order to stand up to the name, non-stop improvement of deep-fried rolls, identified as flour, lard, canola oil, bean paste, green tea plus condiments, water and hot noodles combined to add a special plate oil mud, kneaded repeatedly by hand to make the noodles and oil fusion, will be patting the dough thinly into an oval, with a three griddle charcoal fire on the grill under the branding, oil frying, baking and become.

做这道小吃，最关键的是要掌握火候。 The key to making this snack is to master the heat.

成品茶酥色泽金黄、外皮酥脆、内层松软、层层落花、油而不腻、口味香酥。 The finished product is golden in color, crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, with layers of falling flowers, oily but not greasy, and crispy in taste.

经过秃娃无数次改良，今天的宝鸡茶酥逐渐成形。 After countless refinements by Baldwa, today's Baoji Tea Cake gradually took shape.

现在，宝鸡人常以油煎荷包鸡蛋配合宝鸡茶酥食用，这样味美可口，软脆搭配，营养丰富。 Now, Baoji people often fried eggs with Baoji tea with crispy food, so flavorful, soft and crispy with rich nutrition.

秃娃把自己制作茶酥的技艺传授给了他的徒弟根诚。 Baldwa passed on his skill of making tea cakes to his apprentice, Nemcheng.

根诚为人忠厚老实，继承了秃娃的技术和技巧，从而传承了茶酥的制作方式。 Gen Cheng is a loyal and honest man who inherited the skills and techniques of Baldwa, thus passing on the way of making tea crisps.

1927年，鲁金诚、鲁子清两兄弟拜根诚为师，学做茶酥这道小吃，经过多年的学习，终于得到根诚的真传，能够做出美味可口的茶酥，后成为凤县最有名的茶点师傅。 In 1927, Lu Jincheng, Lu Ziqing two brothers to worship the root of Cheng as a teacher, learn to do the snack tea cake, after years of study, finally got the root of Cheng's true heritage, can make delicious tea cake, after becoming the most famous Phoenix County tea master.

1956年，鲁子清在宝鸡市三好食堂收张秋兰为徒，使得凤县的茶酥技术在宝鸡相传。 In 1956, Lu Ziqing took Zhang Qiulan as an apprentice in Baoji Sanhao canteen, which made the technology of Fengxian's tea pastry spread in Baoji.

从此，茶酥作为宝鸡市的一种地方名小吃被人们所喜爱。 Since then, the tea crisp as a local snack in Baoji City is loved by people.

随着今天制作工艺的进步与发展，现如今也有人将韭黄炒鸡蛋或香椿炒鸡蛋加入刚熬出的茶酥内的做法，香味更加浓郁可口。 With the progress and development of today's production process, nowadays there are also people who will leek scrambled eggs or scrambled eggs with toon added to the freshly boiled tea crisp within the practice, the flavor is more rich and delicious.

我没有想过敦煌这座小城会有砖茶，而且就是我家乡的砖茶。 I hadn't realized that the little town of Dunhuang would have brick tea, and it's the same brick tea from my hometown.

湖南的砖茶在西北流行，是在左宗棠任陕甘总督之后，左宗棠在陕西、甘肃两省推行他的茶务政策，并设立南柜，任命湖南人朱昌琳为掌柜，办理陕甘茶务，渐渐把陕西本地的和山西的茶商打压下去。 Hunan brick tea popular in the northwest, is in Zuo Zongtang after the governor of Shaanxi and Gansu, Zuo Zongtang in Shaanxi and Gansu provinces to implement his tea policy, and the establishment of the South Cabinet, the appointment of Hunan Zhu Changlin for the cabinet, handle the tea business in Shaanxi and Gansu, and gradually Shaanxi local and Shanxi tea merchants to suppress.

曾经流行西北的武夷山茶也因为太平天国起义而衰败了，因此才有湖南茶叶独霸西北的局势出现。 Once popular in the northwest Wuyishan tea also because of the Taiping Rebellion and the decline, so there is a Hunan tea monopoly in the northwest of the situation appeared.

为了在西北这块广阔的土地上销售湖南的黑茶，茶商将湖南茶叶发酵后散装运到陕西泾阳县，在此进行再加工，经过蒸和压等两道主要工序，做成一块一块的黑茶砖，即现在的砖茶，且以益阳茯茶为名，用黄色土纸包裹，码堆装篓子运往西北的其他地方。 In order to sell Hunan's black tea in this vast land in the Northwest, tea merchants will be Hunan tea fermented bulk shipped to Jingyang County in Shaanxi Province, where reprocessing, after steaming and pressing and other two main processes, made into a piece of black tea bricks, that is, the current brick tea, and to Yiyang Por Tea for the name, wrapped in yellow earth paper, yards of stacks loaded with baskets shipped to the Northwest to the rest of the world.

后来益阳、安化等地为了往西北运输方便，干脆引进西北的蒸、压方法，直接生产砖茶运往西北，为了增加运输量，出现了花卷，有十两茶、百两茶、千两茶等。 Later, Yiyang, Anhua and other places in order to transport to the Northwest convenient, simply introduce the Northwest of the steam, pressure method, direct production of brick tea to the Northwest, in order to increase the amount of transportation, the emergence of the rolls, there are ten two tea, one hundred two tea, one thousand two tea, and so on.

我第一次到敦煌旅游，是在2006年。 I first traveled to Dunhuang in 2006.

我与妻子刚结婚不久，年底的时候，岳父岳母要我们俩去敦煌过春节，顺便去认认妻子家的亲戚。 My wife and I just got married not long ago, at the end of the year, my parents-in-law want us both to go to Dunhuang to spend the Spring Festival, and to recognize my wife's relatives.

我对敦煌极其向往。 I'm extremely drawn to Dunhuang.

这次有幸去敦煌，我希望能够在敦煌多待些时间，多了解敦煌，熟悉那些里的绘画艺术及丝绸之路的历史。 I was lucky enough to go to Dunhuang this time, and I hope to spend more time there to learn more about Dunhuang and familiarize myself with the art of painting and the history of the Silk Road.

我们一起去莫高窟、鸣沙山玩，是为一享美景。 We went to Mogao Caves and Mingsha Mountain together to enjoy the scenery.

我们一起去沙洲市场，是为敦煌美食和特产。 We went to Shazhou Market together for Dunhuang food and specialties.

有一天，岳母陪我们夫妻俩到敦煌城里买衣服，我们买完衣服，又买了些敦煌的小吃，准备回家。 One day, mother-in-law accompanied our couple to Dunhuang city to buy clothes, we bought clothes, and bought some Dunhuang snacks, ready to go home.

岳母突然对我们说，她想去敦煌市菜市场买点新鲜蔬菜带回去。 My mother-in-law suddenly told us that she wanted to go to the Dunhuang market to buy some fresh vegetables to bring back.

敦煌是大沙漠的中心即绿洲，冬天几乎不产蔬菜，只有牛羊肉。 Dunhuang is the center of the great desert, i.e. an oasis, and produces almost no vegetables in winter, only beef and mutton.

岳父岳母是青海石油局的职工，20世纪70年代，他们支边来到青海省海西州花土沟，到20世纪90年代，他们才从花土沟搬到敦煌七里镇。 My father and mother-in-law were employees of the Qinghai Petroleum Bureau, and in the 1970s, they branched out to Huatugou, Haixi Prefecture, Qinghai Province, and it was only in the 1990s that they moved from Huatugou to Qili Town, Dunhuang.

其实，岳母就住在七里镇的菜市场边上，只是那里的蔬菜既不新鲜，又很贵。 In fact, my mother-in-law lives right next to the vegetable market in Seven Mile Town, only the vegetables there are neither fresh nor expensive.

青海石油局的第一代、第二代职工中四川人最多，占到总人数的近一半。 The Qinghai Petroleum Bureau has the largest number of Sichuanese among its first- and second-generation workers, accounting for nearly half of the total.

随着生活水平的提高，在边远地区支边的工人的工资也在增加，他们的生活条件也逐渐变好，四川人日夜想念家乡的食物，很多四川的食材不远千里运到敦煌，在石油工人中交易。 As the standard of living improved, the wages of workers supporting the border in remote areas increased, and their living conditions gradually became better. Sichuanese miss the food from home day and night, and many Sichuanese ingredients were shipped to Dunhuang from thousands of miles away to be traded among the oil workers.

敦煌的青海石油局生活基地的冬天蔬菜，经过了数千里的奔波，有些都已经变了颜色，不再新鲜了。 Some of the winter vegetables at the Qinghai Petroleum Bureau's living base in Dunhuang have changed color and are no longer fresh after thousands of miles of travel.

我们来到敦煌市的菜市场，这里的蔬菜种类要比七里镇多，也要新鲜得多。 We went to the food market in Dunhuang, where the vegetables were more varied and much fresher than in Chili Town.

岳母看到什么蔬菜都想买，一问价格，才知道很贵，又舍不得买。 Mother-in-law wants to buy every vegetable she sees, but when she asks the price, she realizes it's very expensive and she can't afford to buy it.

她问我们想吃什么，我们都回答说不必了，她知道我们在长沙生活，冬天的蔬菜很丰富，也就不说什么了。 She asked us what we wanted to eat and we both replied that we didn't have to, knowing that we lived in Changsha and that vegetables were plentiful in the winter.

走来走去，就到了干货区。 Walking around, you come to the dry goods section.

我看到一个摊位上摆满了土纸包裹的东西，却不知道是什么东西。 I saw a stall full of things wrapped in earthy paper but had no idea what they were.

我拿起一块来看，只见土纸上有“砖茶”两字，为1992年出厂的产品。 I picked up a piece to see, only to see the earth paper on the word "brick tea", for the 1992 factory products.

我记得我小时候每年七八月份都要采粗茶，就是用于做砖茶的。 I remember that when I was a child I had to pick coarse tea every July and August, which was used to make brick tea.

我小学一年级的班主任兼语文老师在村里有个加工厂兼电影院，那里除了打米机、磨粉机之外，还有一台水利揉茶机。 My first grade homeroom and language teacher had a processing plant-cum-cinema in the village, where, in addition to rice beaters and grinders, there was also a water-powered tea kneading machine.

每年采茶的时节，白天他就为村民加工揉茶，经过机器揉好的粗茶要用湿布蒙起来，让它密封出汗发酵两三个小时，茶叶由嫩绿色转变成酒红色，再在学校操场里用晒毡晒干，交给砖茶厂加工成一块一块的砖茶。 Every year when the tea picking season, during the day he processed for the villagers kneading tea, after the machine kneaded the coarse tea to be covered with a wet cloth, so that it is sealed sweating fermentation for two or three hours, the tea leaves from the tender green into burgundy, and then in the schoolyard with the sun felt sun-drying, to the brick tea factory to be processed into a piece of brick tea.

晚上，他就利用加工厂的场地放电影，赚些钱补贴家用。 In the evenings, he uses the processing plant's premises to show movies and earn some money to subsidize his family.

村里的年青男女去他那里看电影，多半是为了避开父母谈恋爱。 Most of the young men and women in the village go to his place to watch movies, mostly to avoid their parents and fall in love.

电影播放之后，他们就躲到加工区去，有的坐在揉茶机上谈天说地，一面闻着那茶香，一面体验爱情的味道。 After the movie, they ducked into the processing area, some of them sitting on the tea kneading machine to talk about the tea, smelling that tea on one side and experiencing the flavor of love on the other.

我想看看那是不是湖南的砖茶，或者是不是我们小时候采摘的那种粗茶的成品。 I'd like to see if that's Hunan brick tea, or if it's the finished product of the crude tea we picked as kids.

我一看就吓一跳，那正是安化县洞市某茶厂的砖茶。 I was shocked when I saw that it was exactly the brick tea of a tea factory in Dongshi, Anhua County.

这可找到我老家产的砖茶了。 This finds my old home grown brick tea.

我老家是新化圳上镇，我们托山村与安化县浮青乡相邻，隔一个杉山村与安化洞市相邻。 My hometown is Xinhua Zhenshang Township, and our Toshan Village is adjacent to Fuqing Township in Anhua County, separated by a Sugishan Village adjacent to Anhua Dong City.

圳上镇是一个被安化包围的小镇，只有南面与白溪镇相连。 The town is a small town surrounded by Anhua and only connected to Baixi Town in the south.

老家有句俗话“新化一根线，安化包一圈”。 There is a saying in my hometown that "Xinhua is a thread, Anhua is a circle".

圳上镇早在唐朝末年就有方氏等六大姓氏迁徙到此，在左宗棠任陕甘总督时，圳上镇依靠茶叶种植、采摘、加工，经济迅速发展，移民大量涌入，成为新化一个经济强镇。 As early as the end of the Tang Dynasty, six major surnames, including the Fang Clan, migrated to this town. When Zuo Zongtang was the governor of Shaanxi and Gansu, the town relied on tea planting, picking, and processing, and its economy developed rapidly, with a large influx of immigrants, making it an economically strong town in Xinhua.

我找到的这块砖茶经过近三千公里辗转来到这个被沙漠包裹的古城敦煌，我可以想象得到它经过资江、湘江、长江，走铁路，跨黄河，过祁连山，入沙漠。 I found this brick tea after nearly three thousand kilometers rolled to this desert wrapped ancient city of Dunhuang, I can imagine it through the Zijiang River, Xiangjiang River, Yangtze River, take the railroad, across the Yellow River, across the Qilian Mountains, into the desert.

特别是在河西走廊，它们在骆驼队的背脊上颠簸，最后在敦煌这个驿站停下来。 Especially in the Hexi Corridor, they bumped along on the backs of camel caravans, finally stopping at Dunhuang, a stagecoach stop.

这一等就是十五年，我们又在异地他乡的敦煌见面了，这也许就是我1990年采摘的粗茶呢。 It's been fifteen years since then, and we're meeting again in a foreign land, Dunhuang, and this may be the rough tea I picked in 1990.

我问老板这块砖茶的价格是多少，老板要30元钱。 I asked the owner how much this brick tea cost, and he wanted 30 dollars for it.

老板还建议我买那些包装崭新的砖茶，说它们的价格要便宜些，有10到20元钱不等。 The owner also suggested that I buy those brick teas with brand new packaging, saying that they were cheaper, ranging from 10 to 20 dollars.

妻子问我：你买这种砖茶干什么？ My wife asked me: what are you buying this brick tea for?

我很惊讶，拿起几块新包装的砖茶，看到上面写着“茯茶”两字，再看厂家是“益阳茯茶厂”，它的生产日期是1995—1998年。 I was very surprised, picked up a few pieces of newly packaged brick tea, see written on the top of the word "Fu tea", and then look at the manufacturer is "Yiyang Fu Tea Factory", its production date is 1995-1998.

老板听了我与妻子的对话，一下变得亲切起来，并告诉我他姓马。 The owner listened to my conversation with my wife, became instantly friendly and told me his last name was Ma.

马老板要我们在摊位前的凳子上坐坐，并马上给我们烧水煮茶。 Boss Ma asked us to take a seat on the stools in front of the stall and immediately boiled water for us to make tea.

原来，马老板在1992年从农村到敦煌市做生意。 It turns out that Boss Ma came from the countryside to do business in Dunhuang City in 1992.

但无论做什么生意都亏，一年下来，三千块钱的本钱所剩无几，眼看就要到年底了，只有逃难回家。 But no matter what business you do, you lose money, a year down the road, three thousand dollars of capital left, see the end of the year, only to flee home.

走投无路的时候，遇到一位蒋姓湖南安化人，蒋老板拖了一板车砖茶在敦煌城转悠、兜售，卖的速度却很慢。 Desperate times, met a Jiang surnamed Hunan Anhua, Jiang boss dragged a crate of brick tea in Dunhuang City around, peddling, selling speed but very slow.

蒋老板想找个伙计帮他在敦煌把砖茶卖掉，自己先回老家安化。 Boss Jiang wants to find a fellow to help him sell the brick tea in Dunhuang, and return to his hometown Anhua first.

当时，蒋老板留了五百块砖茶给他，并告诉他煮茶的方法。 At that time, Mr. Chiang left 500 bricks of tea for him and told him how to make the tea.

说也奇怪，马老板每天煮一壶砖茶，自饮或分享给周边的商贩和选茶的人，一周之后，来买砖茶的人就慢慢多起来，不到半个月时间，他就卖了差不多四百块砖茶。 Strange to say, the owner of the horse every day to cook a pot of brick tea, self drinking or sharing to the surrounding vendors and choose tea, a week later, to buy brick tea people slowly more, less than half a month, he sold almost four hundred brick tea.

蒋老板也曾告诉他，砖茶的成本是一块钱一块，市场价卖两块钱一块就行了，多卖的钱就算销售人员多赚的。 Boss Jiang had also told him that the cost of brick tea is one dollar a piece, the market price of two dollars a piece on the line, more money even if the sales staff earn more.

马老板把剩下的一百块砖茶藏起来，停止销售。 Boss Ma hid the remaining one hundred brick teas and stopped selling them.

他把五百块砖茶以两块钱一块的价格与蒋老板结账。 He settled the bill with Boss Jiang for five hundred pieces of brick tea at two dollars a piece.

蒋老板因此很信任马老板，他们持续合作了五年，每年蒋老板给马老板供货，从第一年五百块砖茶发展到第五年五千块。 Boss Jiang thus trusted Boss Ma, and they continued to work together for five years, with Boss Jiang supplying Boss Ma every year, growing from 500 brick teas in the first year to 5,000 in the fifth year.

生意做得很火爆，马老板在敦煌也有了点知名度，附近的牧民、餐馆老板都来他那里购买砖茶。 Business is doing very well, the owner of the horse in Dunhuang also has a bit of popularity, the nearby herdsmen, restaurant owners have come to him to buy brick tea.

两年前，马老板在一位朋友家玩，见到了他二十年前卖出去的砖茶，这块茶与马老板收藏的一百块茶是同一批茶，无论茶叶、包装都一模一样。 Two years ago, Ma boss in a friend's house to play, saw his twenty years ago sold brick tea, this piece of tea and Ma boss collection of one hundred pieces of tea is the same batch of tea, no matter the tea leaves, packaging are exactly the same.

那位朋友告诉马老板，这是安化的贡砖，是砖茶里的极品。 The friend told Mr. Ma that this is Anhua's Tribute Brick, which is the best of all brick teas.

这批砖茶的茶叶品质好，茶梗子细，没有硬梗子，茶汤颜色深，如红酒。 The tea leaves of this batch of brick tea are of good quality, with fine tea stalks and no hard stalks, and the tea broth is dark in color, like red wine.

马老板的朋友是花了上百元从另外一个茶贩子手里买的。 Boss Ma's friend bought it from another tea vendor for hundreds of dollars.

马老板回家之后，找出来那一百块收藏了二十多年的砖茶，拿了一块放在摊位上做招牌，吸引顾客，另外拿一块在摊位上煮茶喝，招揽顾客。 After Boss Ma went home, he found out the one hundred pieces of brick tea that he had collected for more than twenty years, took one piece and put it on the stall as a signboard to attract customers, and took another piece to cook and drink the tea on the stall to solicit customers.

后来，在马老板那里买茶的人越来越多了，很多是为了目睹他的贡砖而来，有的是为喝他一口贡砖茶而来，他都一一满足他们，并不拒绝。 Later on, more and more people bought tea at Boss Ma's place, many came to witness his Tribute Brick, and some came to drink a mouthful of his Tribute Brick Tea, and he met them one by one and didn't reject them.

我们喝了马老板煮的茯茶，才知道他是用我老家的土法所煮。 We drank the Por Tea made by Mr. Ma and realized that he made it using the local method in my hometown.

先把水烧开，把翘下来的一小块茶叶投入水里，等茶叶随着茶水在锅里翻腾跳跃，完全舒展开来，并浮在水上面，就停火，等茶水稍微凉一下，就可以喝了。 First boil the water, the warped down a small piece of tea leaves into the water, and when the tea leaves with the tea in the pot tossing and jumping, completely stretch and float above the water, cease fire, and wait for the tea to cool a little, you can drink.

这样煮的砖茶，茶汤有着自然的甘甜，喝后让人久久回味。 Brick tea cooked in this way has a natural sweetness in the tea broth, which makes people savor it for a long time after drinking it.

听了马老板的故事，我就欣然买下了那块有二十多年历史的砖茶。 After hearing Boss Ma's story, I gladly bought the brick tea that was more than 20 years old.

这让我联想起2018年的春天，在福建政和精心制作的那批高山白茶。 It reminds me of the batch of alpine white tea crafted in Zhenghe, Fujian in the spring of 2018.

野放的政和大白老茶树，由于多年无人管理、台刈，发芽率极低，因此只能在小开面后采摘。 The old wild Zhenghe Dabai tea trees, due to many years of unmanaged, tai mowing, germination rate is extremely low, so it can only be picked after a small open face.

茶青叶张肥大却柔嫩丝滑，气息清芳，令人惊喜。 The tea green leaves are fat but tender and silky, with a surprisingly fresh aroma.

事后细想，大概是野生茶叶面的角质层较厚，白茶又没经过揉捻，其丰富的内质，在茶叶细胞不能破壁时，很难自然快速地溶出所致。 In hindsight, it is probably due to the thicker cuticle layer on the leaf surface of wild tea, and white tea has not been kneaded, and its rich inner texture is difficult to dissolve naturally and quickly when the tea cells cannot break through the wall.

从孟诜的记载可以断定，唐代初期的蒸青绿茶业已存在。 It can be concluded from Monk's records that the steaming green tea industry already existed in the early Tang Dynasty.

那么，唐代以前的茶又是怎样的呢？ So what was tea like before the Tang Dynasty?

在找不到确凿的文字记载之前，我们还不好定论。 Until we can find a solid written record, it's not easy to be conclusive.

可能在部分地区，存在着先进的茶叶蒸青工艺；而在某些落后的地区，也可能还没有诞生蒸青工艺。 It is possible that in some areas, there exists an advanced tea steaming process; while in some backward areas, it is also possible that the steaming process has not yet been born.

我在《茶与茶器》一书中做过考证，茶的揉捻工艺，的确是在元代开始出现的。 I have done a test in the book "Tea and Tea Ware", the kneading process of tea, indeed, began to appear in the Yuan Dynasty.

基于这个认知，我们就可以得出一个推论：在唐以前，乃至更长的一段历史时期内，一个既没有杀青也没有经过揉捻的生晒茶，应该更近似于我们今天的白茶类。 Based on this knowledge, we can draw an inference that before the Tang Dynasty, and even for a longer period of history, a raw sun-dried tea that was neither killed nor twisted should be more similar to the white tea category we have today.

因此，我们完全有理由、有证据，把唐代以前煎煮的茶叶，定义为“天然白茶”。 Therefore, we have every reason and evidence to define tea brewed before the Tang Dynasty as "natural white tea".

这类远古的所谓的“白茶”，并不存在特定的加工工艺，只是生产力比较落后条件下的自然为之。 This kind of ancient so-called "white tea", there is no specific processing technology, just the productivity of the relatively backward conditions of nature.

陆羽在《茶经·之事》，也确认过这条记载的可靠性。 Lu Yu, in his "Tea Classic - The Matter of Tea," also confirmed the reliability of this account.

其中的荆、巴间，即是现在的川东、鄂西一带。 One of them was between Jing and Ba, which is now the area of east Sichuan and west Hubei.

这是有据可查的最早的巴人献茶的记载。 This is the earliest documented account of tea offered by the Bajans.

之后，西汉王褒的“武阳买茶”，就发生在四川眉州的彭山，这里也是苏轼的故乡。 Later, the "Buying Tea in Wuyang" by Wang Bao of the Western Han Dynasty took place in Pengshan, Meizhou, Sichuan Province, which is also the hometown of Su Shi.

巴人献茶与武阳买茶，这两个著名的历史事件，进一步证实了荆巴地区，的确是中国最早开始利用茶的发源地。 Baren offering tea and Wuyang buying tea, these two famous historical events, further confirming the Jingba region, is indeed China's earliest began to utilize the birthplace of tea.

三国时期的茶叶，采得比较粗老。 Tea leaves from the Three Kingdoms period were picked coarser and older.

以茶压饼时，叶片之间缺乏粘性的果胶，只能依靠黏度较高的米膏，粘茶成饼。 When pressing cakes with tea, there is a lack of sticky pectin between the leaves, so you can only rely on the higher viscosity of the rice paste, sticking the tea into cakes.

张揖的记载，从侧面证实了此时的茶叶制作，既没有蒸青工艺的出现，也没有捣碎工艺的存在。 Zhang Yi's record, from the side to confirm the tea production at this time, neither the emergence of steaming process, nor the existence of pounding process.

假设茶叶经过了蒸青，压饼时，就不需要“以米膏出之”了。 Assuming that the tea leaves have been steamed, when the cake is pressed, there is no need for "rice paste out of it".

此时的茶叶，因为没有经过杀青，茶的刺激性及苦涩度都会较高，所以在饮用时，很有必要对茶进行烤炙，这类同于中药的炮炙，又可烤出茶叶的焦糖香气。 At this time the tea, because it has not been killed, tea irritation and bitterness will be higher, so when drinking, it is very necessary to roast tea, which is similar to the Chinese medicine of the gun, and can be baked out of the caramelized aroma of tea.

经过烤炙、氧化变红的茶，在捣碎后，继而用热水冲泡，再调以葱、姜、橘皮饮用。 Tea that has been roasted and oxidized to turn red, after mashing, followed by brewing with hot water and mixing with onion, ginger and orange peel to drink.

假如在茶中不添加任何调料，其饮法，已很近似今天云南少数民族地区常见的罐罐茶了，从中可以深刻地感受到，悠久的饮茶文化，在中华大地上那种割不断的脉动与传承。 If you do not add any seasoning in the tea, its drinking method, has been very similar to today's Yunnan ethnic minority areas common cans of tea, from which you can deeply feel, a long history of tea culture, in the Chinese land of the kind of cutting the pulsation and inheritance.

为什么最早的茶叶加工，会是蒸青工艺呢？ Why was the earliest processing of tea, the steaming process?

这就需要对古老中国的饮食发展，作一梳理。 This requires an overview of the development of food in ancient China.

在人类历史上，最早加工食物的器皿，是陶制的砂锅。 The earliest vessels used to process food in human history were ceramic casseroles.

因为砂锅的传热系数低，所以，砂锅只能用来蒸、煮食物。 Because of their low heat transfer coefficient, casseroles can only be used for steaming and boiling food.

到了春秋战国时代，随着冶铁工艺的成熟与普及，才使铁锅的问世成为可能。 It was only during the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods, with the maturation and popularization of the iron smelting process, that the introduction of the iron pot became possible.

但是，仅仅有了铁锅还不行，还需要以油作为传热介质，才能为“炒”的出现，奠定必要的基础条件，这二者是缺一不可的。 However, only with the iron pot is not enough, but also need to oil as a heat transfer medium, in order to "fry" appeared, laying the necessary foundation conditions, the two are indispensable.

南北朝以后，随着植物油的普及，食物的炒制技术开始出现，尤其是唐宋以后，炒法开始散见于各类典籍之中。 After the North and South Dynasties, with the popularization of vegetable oil, the technology of stir-frying food began to appear, especially after the Tang and Song dynasties, the stir-frying method began to be scattered in all kinds of canonical books.

由炒菜技法的形成时间可以推断，茶叶炒制技术的出现，一定是落后于蒸青工艺的。 It can be inferred from the formation time of the stir-frying technique that the emergence of tea stir-frying technology must have lagged behind the steaming process.

并且在南北朝之前，不可能有茶叶炒青工艺的存在。 And it is unlikely that the tea frying process existed before the North and South Dynasties.

这个考证结果，与唐初孟诜对茶叶“蒸、捣”工艺的记载，是基本吻合的。 The results of this examination, and the early Tang Monk on the tea "steam, pounding" process, is basically consistent.

在茶的制作历史上，晒干或蒸青的茶青，主要以采摘茶树的嫩叶为主。 In the history of tea production, sun-dried or steamed tea green, mainly based on picking the young leaves of the tea tree.

当时的最佳饮用方式又是如何呢？ What about the best way to drink it at the time?

晋代杜育的《荈赋》，已经脱离了煮茶和煎茶的食、药层面，对唐代陆羽系统地总结煎茶规律，起到了启蒙作用。 Thea sinensis fugu by Du Yu of Jin Dynasty, which has been detached from the food and medicine level of boiling and decocting tea, played an enlightening role for Lu Yu of Tang Dynasty to systematically summarize the laws of decocting tea.

杜育的煎茶，强调的是茶叶安神解倦的精神层面，陆羽推崇和宣扬煎茶的贡献，在于系统总结了唐以前的煎茶工艺，使之系统化、理论化、规范化，并把饮茶从亦食亦药的煮茶技法中剥离出来，上升到不受辅料滋味影响的高洁清饮，一举使茶成为“参百品而不混，越众饮而独高”的泓然清流。 Du Yu's decoction of tea, emphasizing the spiritual dimension of tea to calm the mind and relieve fatigue, Lu Yu's contribution to the promotion and propagation of the decoction of tea lies in the systematic summary of the decoction of tea before the Tang Dynasty, so that it is systematized, theorized, standardized, and the drinking of tea from the food and medicine of the tea cooking techniques stripped out, rising to the taste of the auxiliary materials without the influence of the high and clean drink, in one fell swoop, so that the tea has become a "reference to the hundreds of products and not mixed, more than the masses of drink and only high" of a vast and clear stream. The tea has become a clear stream which is "not mixed with all kinds of products, and is higher than all other drinks".

张孟阳在成都喝的一定是煎茶，否则，煮出的羹饮、茗粥，香气滋味驳杂，又怎会芬芳“冠六清”呢？ Zhang Mengyang in Chengdu must be drinking decoction tea, otherwise, the cooking of the soup, tea porridge, aroma and flavor mixed, and how can the fragrance of the "crown of the six clear" it?

陆羽在《茶经》的煎茶技法中，规范了二十四器，把煮茶中添加的葱、姜、枣、薄荷、橘皮、茱萸、薄荷等调剂品，从茶饮中剥离出去，只保留了一味盐的存在。 Lu Yu standardized the twenty-four vessels in the tea decoction technique of the Classic of Tea, stripping the seasonings such as onion, ginger, jujube, mint, orange peel, cornelian cherry, and peppermint, which were added in the boiling of tea, from the tea drink, and retaining only the presence of a single taste of salt.

把过去的“煮之百沸”，精减为目辨的煎之“三沸”，有效降低了茶汤的浓度和久煮造成的苦涩滋味，使茶的真香得以纯洁，使茶的滋味变得更加单纯和清雅。 In the past, the "boiling of a hundred" was reduced to "three", effectively reducing the concentration of tea and the bitter taste caused by the long cooking, so that the true aroma of tea can be pure, so that the taste of tea has become more simple and elegant.

陆羽视过去的煮茶，为“斯沟渠间弃水耳”。 Lu Yu regarded the past tea, as "the ditch between the abandoned water ear".

如果仅仅站在茶的品饮角度来看，陆羽的观点或许是对的，茶的表达要纯粹，要展现出茶本身的真香真味。 If we just stand on the tea tasting point of view, Lu Yu's point of view may be right, the expression of tea should be pure, to show the true aroma and flavor of the tea itself.

但是，如果从医疗和保健角度思忖，陆羽的上述观点，似乎有些失之偏颇。 However, if we think about it from a medical and health care perspective, Lu Yu's viewpoint above seems to be somewhat biased.

首先，我们要看到，茶的利用和发展，是从食用到药用，由食药并用再发展到广泛的食用阶段。 First of all, we have to see that the utilization and development of tea is from edible to medicinal, and from food and medicine to a wide range of edible stage.

人们在长期的生活实践过程中，意识到茶的寒性，可能会对不同体质的人，造成不同程度的影响，故在日常的饮用中，加入了一些辛温的调料，尤其是葱的微温通中、姜的温中散寒、薄荷的清利头目、橘皮的燥湿化痰、茱萸的暖肝温胃，这些辅料相互协同，综合作用于人体，可有效抑制长期过量饮茶造成的痰湿、偏寒等副作用，这其中，蕴含着祖先们高超的生存智慧和对食药属性阴阳平衡的把握。 People in the process of long-term life practice, aware of the cold nature of tea, may be on the different physique of people, causing different degrees of impact, so in the daily drinking, adding some pungent and warm spices, especially the green onion slightly warm through the middle, ginger warming dispersal of cold, peppermint's clear head and eyes, tangerine peel of the phlegm of the dampness, the Cornus corniculatus of the warm liver and warm stomach, the auxiliary materials synergize with each other, the combined effect on the human body, can effectively inhibit the long-term excess of tea caused by phlegm and dampness, partial cold side effects, which, contains the wisdom of our ancestors to survive and grasp the balance of food and medicine properties. Drinking tea causes phlegm-dampness, partial cold and other side effects, which contains the ancestors' superior survival wisdom and grasp of the balance of food and medicine properties of yin and yang.

姜、茶的天作之合，一阴一阳，寒热平衡，直到今天，仍是医疗、保健中祛除湿邪、暑邪、寒邪的经典配伍。 The heavenly combination of ginger and tea, one yin and one yang, with a balance of heat and cold, is still a classic pairing in medical treatment and health care to get rid of dampness, summer and cold evils until today.

其次，在茶中添加淀粉、薯蓣等煮成茗粥，可有效减少茶对胃肠的刺激，尤其适于体质虚弱、低血糖的人群。 Secondly, adding starch and dioscorea to the tea and cooking it into a tea porridge can effectively reduce the stimulation of the tea on the stomach and intestines, especially suitable for the weak and hypoglycemic people.

陆羽《茶经》问世以后，世人受到《茶经》的影响，茶饮逐渐从以治疗为目的的药物范畴中抽离出来，淡化为以保健为主的精神饮品，厘清了茶的真实面目。 Lu Yu "Tea Classic" after the introduction of the world by the "Tea Classic" influence, tea drink gradually from the therapeutic purpose of the drug category, watered down to health care-based spiritual drinks, clarified the true nature of tea.

茶的主要作用，还是以生物碱为主的“荡昏寐”。 The main effect of tea is still alkaloid-based "drowsiness".

至于热渴、凝闷等生理性不适，陆羽讲得非常清楚，不是药物治疗，而是用于缓解症状。 As for physiological discomforts such as heat and thirst, congestion and stuffiness, Lu Yu made it very clear that it is not a medication but is used to alleviate the symptoms.

上述这些功效，都是基于茶中所含咖啡碱的活性及其含量。 All of these effects are based on the activity of the caffeine contained in the tea and its content.

这是陆羽在《茶经》中，从茶的本质和哲学层面，对茶作出的基本定义。 This is the basic definition of tea given by Lu Yu in The Classic of Tea, in terms of the nature and philosophical aspects of tea.

在自然界中，喝起来苦而回味甜的，唯有茶。 In nature, the only thing that tastes bitter and has a sweet aftertaste is tea.

茶的苦，主要是由茶中咖啡碱的含量决定的。 The bitterness of tea is mainly determined by the amount of caffeine in tea.

在生物界的植物叶片中，含有2%以上咖啡碱的只有茶，这也是茶类区别于其他植物的根本标志。 Among the leaves of plants in the living world, the only one that contains more than 2% caffeine is tea, which is the fundamental mark that distinguishes tea from other plants.

古人在论述茶的功效时，强调的多是咖啡碱的作用。 When the ancients discussed the effects of tea, they emphasized mostly the effects of caffeine.

茶多酚、糖类、茶氨酸、维生素等物质，并非茶类所独有，因此，茶叶的独特功效，应该是以咖啡碱的作用为主，其他组分协同、拮抗的综合表达。 Tea polyphenols, sugars, theanine, vitamins and other substances are not unique to tea, therefore, the unique efficacy of tea should be a combination of caffeine's action as the main focus, and the synergistic and antagonistic expression of other components.

茶中的茶多酚、氨基酸、多糖类、维生素、矿物质等，都会具有一定的药效或保健作用，但这并非是茶中所独有的物质，其表现出的药理作用，是不应该列入茶的主要功效的。 Tea polyphenols, amino acids, polysaccharides, vitamins, minerals, etc., will have certain medicinal or health effects, but this is not unique to the substances in tea, which exhibit pharmacological effects that should not be included in the main effects of tea.

个别物质所呈现出的单独功效，在茶的组分自我平衡后，也不见得会起明显作用。 The individual effects presented by individual substances do not necessarily play a significant role even after the components of the tea have balanced themselves.

例如：桑叶、苦菜、苦丁、车前草、薄荷等等，都可作为代茶饮，都可能含有除咖啡碱之外的其他物质，有的成分含量，甚至比茶还要高，但是，它们并不属于真正的茶类，所以这些代茶类，便在医疗和保健中，各自表现出各自的独特药物功效。 For example: mulberry leaves, bitter vegetable, bitter, plantain, mint, etc., can be used as a substitute for tea, may contain other substances in addition to caffeine, and some components of the content, and even higher than the tea, but they do not belong to the real tea, so these substitute for the tea, they are in the medical and health care, each showing their own unique medicinal effects.

而每一种药物表现出的特殊药效，往往不是由其中的某一种化学成分决定的。 And the particular potency that each drug exhibits is often not determined by one of its chemical components.

真正起作用的，一定是该物质内部的稳定有序的组成成分。 It must be the stabilized and ordered constituents within that substance that really make a difference.

各组分之间，还具有天然的稳定的配伍配比关系。 The components also have a natural and stable relationship with each other.

从这个意义上讲，单纯把茶内除咖啡碱以外的其他成分，作为茶的主要药效，去刻意的过分强调，这是极端片面和不科学的误导。 In this sense, it is extremely one-sided and unscientific misinformation to deliberately overemphasize the other components of tea, other than caffeine, as the main medicinal effect of tea.

从上古到唐代，茶的泻火解毒、利尿止痛、兴奋神经中枢的药理、保健作用，主要体现在以咖啡碱为主的组分含量上。 From ancient times to the Tang Dynasty, tea's diaphoresis and detoxification, diuretic and pain relief, excitation of the nerve center of the pharmacological, health effects, mainly in the caffeine-based component content.

其后，唐代湖州刺史裴汶所著的《茶述》中，记载的茶“其用涤烦”，与咖啡碱的泻心火功效，不无关系。 Later, the Tang Dynasty Huzhou assassin Pei Wen's "Tea Description", recorded in the tea "its use to cleanse the trouble", and caffeine's caffeine diarrhea heart fire effect, not unrelated.

茶的啜苦咽甘，主要是以咖啡碱为主导的稳定组分在起作用。 Tea's sip bitter and swallow sweet, mainly to caffeine as the dominant stabilizing component in the role.

咽甘即是回甘，这是“为饮最宜精”的好茶的重要特征。 The sweetness of swallowing is the sweetness of returning, which is an important characteristic of good tea that "is the most suitable for drinking".

回甘的产生，首先是与咖啡碱的苦味，形成的鲜明的对比效应，没有苦便无所谓甜。 The production of sweetness, first of all, with the caffeine of the bitter, forming a sharp contrast effect, no bitter is no sweet.

这一点，多么像我们的人生！ How like our lives this is!

其次，是不溶于水的糖类，在口腔的苦味逐渐消失时，会慢半拍地被口腔里的唾液淀粉酶，分解成为可溶于水的糖类。 Secondly, it is the water-insoluble sugars that are slow to be broken down into water-soluble sugars by the salivary amylase enzyme in the mouth, as the bitterness in the mouth fades.

因此，苦涩弥散，清甜缓来，便表现为非常惬意愉悦的生理体验了。 Therefore, when the bitterness dissipates and the sweetness eases in, it manifests itself as a very pleasant and enjoyable physiological experience.

第三，茶多酚与口腔粘膜上的蛋白结合，生成的不透水的膜层，便表现为茶多酚的涩味。 Thirdly, the combination of tea polyphenols with proteins on the mucous membranes of the oral cavity produces an impermeable membrane layer, which manifests itself as the astringent flavor of tea polyphenols.

等膜层破裂，伴随苦涩味退去，迎来的恰好是，绵绵不尽的微苦中的清甜。 When the membrane layer ruptures, along with the bitter taste recedes, it is ushered in, just in time, by a lingering sweetness in the midst of a slight bitterness.

回甘越好的茶，往往寒性较弱，从而对人体的刺激相对较轻，这往往是生态良好的高品质春茶的特征。 The better the aftertaste, the less chilly the tea tends to be, and thus the relatively lighter the stimulation to the body, which is often a characteristic of ecologically sound, high-quality spring teas.

回甘与寒性，二者存在着某些必然的关联。 There is some necessary correlation between sweetness and coldness.

当然，茶的回甘，还与茶中鲜甜的氨基酸、儿茶素的水解、有机酸对唾液腺体的刺激以及可溶性糖类的含量相关。 The sweetness of the tea is, of course, also related to the fresh sweet amino acids in the tea, the hydrolysis of catechins, the stimulation of the salivary glands by organic acids, and the content of soluble sugars.

回甘的悠长欣悦，主要取决于茶氨酸含量的高低。 The long and pleasant aftertaste mainly depends on the level of theanine content.

陆羽之后，对饮茶文化影响最大的诗文，要数卢仝的《七碗茶诗》了。 After Lu Yu, the poem that has the greatest influence on tea-drinking culture is Lu Tong's Seven Bowls of Tea Poem.

如果卢仝茶诗中的七碗，还表述不尽内心对茶的感受和情愫，那么，他可能要在诗中写到九碗、十八碗不等。 If the seven bowls in Lu Tong's tea poems are not enough to express his inner feelings and sentiments towards tea, then he may have to write up to nine or eighteen bowls in his poems.

尽管禁得住三碗不容易，但是仔细想来，健康需要自律，一个抵制不住嘴巴诱惑的人，又如何去成就自己的人生呢？ Although it's not easy to forbid three bowls, when you think about it, health requires self-discipline, and how can someone who can't resist the temptations of his mouth go on to fulfill his life?

深谙医理的东坡，从另一层面提醒人们，在食不饱、力不足的夜晚，尽量少喝茶，喝淡茶，或者不喝茶。 Dong Po, who was well versed in medical science, reminded people on another level to drink as little tea as possible, light tea, or no tea at all on nights when they do not have enough food or strength.

对此，苏轼曾深有感触，“归来记所历，耿耿清不眠”；“东坡调诗腹，今夜睡应休”。 In this regard, Su Shi had a deep feeling, "return to remember the experience, Geng Qing do not sleep"; "Dongpo tuning poetry belly, tonight sleep should be rested".

咖啡碱令人失眠的恹恹痛苦滋味，昏昏难以言表。 The sickly, painful taste of caffeine that causes insomnia is too faint for words.

苏轼夜饮所历，我也感同身受。 I can relate to what Su Shi experienced when he drank at night.

春季在茶山做茶，常常试茶到深夜，那种因咖啡碱摄入过量，引起的心慌、失眠、恶心等，甚至会伴随着一种莫名的抑郁感觉，至今思来，犹在昨日。 In the spring in the tea mountain tea, often test tea late into the night, the kind of excessive intake of caffeine, caused by panic, insomnia, nausea, etc., and will even be accompanied by a kind of inexplicable feeling of depression, so far thought, still yesterday.

尽管宋代的某些团茶中，掺有淀粉类等辅料，可以缓和茶对胃肠的刺激，但是，东坡仍能很清醒地察觉到饮茶过量的危害。 Despite the fact that certain group teas of the Song Dynasty were mixed with starch and other auxiliary materials to moderate the stimulation of tea on the stomach and intestines, Dong Po was still able to perceive the harm of drinking too much tea very soberly.

东坡确实是一个出色的别茶高人，他能敏锐地意识到，中下等茶，因季节、制作、生态等差别，可能会造成咖啡碱、茶多酚等物质的含量过高；或因杀青不透等因素的存在，对这类茶的饮用，如果不加节制，可能会对人体造成过度的刺激或损害。 Dong Po is indeed an outstanding high tea, he can keenly realize that the middle and lower tea, due to the season, production, ecological and other differences, may cause caffeine, tea polyphenols and other substances in the content is too high; or due to the presence of impermeable factors, such as the killing of green, the consumption of this type of tea, if not restrained, may cause excessive stimulation of or damage to the human body.

因此，他提倡尽量喝上等茶，且数日一啜为宜，这与我一直倡导的“喝好茶、少喝茶”，其内涵是基本一致的。 Therefore, he advocated trying to drink the best tea, and a few days a sip is appropriate, which I have been advocating the "drink good tea, less tea", the connotation is basically the same.

当然，这里要考虑到古人生活条件的局限，他们可能没有我们今天的富足，体内也没有那么多的累积营养可供消解。 Of course, the limitations of the living conditions of the ancients have to be taken into account here; they may not have been as rich as we are today, and they did not have as much accumulated nutrients in their bodies to dissipate.

但是，这种告诫、提醒、警觉，对我们正确地认知茶，学会健康地去喝茶，是有百利而无一害的。 However, this kind of caution, reminder and alertness is beneficial and not harmful for us to perceive tea correctly and learn to drink tea in a healthy way.

凡事需要趋利避害，理性分析。 Everything needs to be avoided and analyzed rationally.

苏轼并没有因此完全去否定茶的健康功效。 Sushil did not therefore go on to deny the health benefits of tea altogether.

这是他对适量饮茶的充分肯定。 This is his full endorsement of drinking tea in moderation.

我们饮完茶后，会感觉精神抖擞，实质上是咖啡碱调动了人的元气所致，临时透支了自己的精、气、神。 After we drink tea, we will feel refreshed, in essence, caffeine mobilized the human energy due to the temporary overdraft of their essence, gas and spirit.

如果长期透支而得不到及时修复，必然会导致气虚体弱。 If a long-term overdraft is not repaired in time, it will inevitably lead to qi deficiency and weakness.

如果再长期饮食不节，不注意营养的全面摄入，就是过劳过量，就会损伤气血。 If you then eat poorly for a long period of time without paying attention to the full intake of nutrients, you are overworking and overdoing it, and you will damage your qi and blood.

当然，事物的发展变化，还存在着一个从量变到质变的过程。 Of course, there is still a process from quantitative change to qualitative change in the development and change of things.

“不复病黄”，是指茶的苦寒可清热燥湿，对湿热引起的黄疸型疾病，有很好的预防功效。 "Do not return to the disease yellow" means that the bitter cold of the tea can clear heat and dry dampness, jaundice-type diseases caused by dampness and heat, has a good preventive effect.

现代医学也证明，茶对急性肝损伤，有很显著的修复作用。 Modern medicine has also proven that tea has a very significant restorative effect on acute liver injury.

适量饮茶能够保肝护肝，降低脂肪肝的发病率。 Drinking tea in moderation can protect the liver and reduce the incidence of fatty liver.

唐代的常伯熊，就因年轻气盛，饮茶过量，导致腰腿风湿疾病缠身，遗恨残生。 Chang Bo Xiong of the Tang Dynasty, due to youthful exuberance, drinking too much tea, resulting in waist and leg rheumatism disease, hate the rest of his life.

等级较低的夏秋茶，往往寒性较重，苦寒伤气。 Lower graded summer and fall teas tend to be more chilly and bitterly cold, injuring the qi.

如若过量饮用，不加节制，确实会损伤体内的阳气，打破人体健康的阴阳平衡，这是得不偿失的。 If you drink too much without moderation, it will indeed damage the body's yang energy and break the balance of yin and yang in the body's health, which is more than worth the loss.

饮茶从唐至明，一直存在着雅与俗的纷争。 Tea drinking from Tang to Ming, there has been a dispute between elegant and vulgar.

到了清代，饮茶人群不断沿着雅与俗的边界，向两端拓展、聚集，并交融为可雅可俗、雅俗共赏，尤其是茶馆、茶庄、茶号、茶行的纷纷出现，标志着茶已经真正融入各阶层人民的日常生活，列入到柴、米、油、盐、酱、醋之中。 To the Qing Dynasty, tea-drinking crowd along the border between the elegant and vulgar, to both ends of the expansion, gathering, and intermingling of elegant and vulgar, elegant and vulgar, especially the emergence of teahouse, tea house, tea, tea house, marking the tea has been truly integrated into the daily life of all classes of people, included in the firewood, rice, oil, salt, soy sauce, vinegar.

另外，在清代，茶树无性扦插繁育技术的发明，极大地推动了茶叶产量与品质的不断提高，为武夷岩茶、政和与福鼎大白茶的出现，奠定了良好的品种茶的选育基础。 In addition, in the Qing Dynasty, the invention of tea tree asexual cuttings breeding technology, greatly promoting the continuous improvement of tea production and quality, for the emergence of Wuyi Rock Tea, Zhenghe and Fuding Great White Tea, laying a good foundation for the selection and breeding of varieties of tea.

清代茶的发展，继承发扬了明代及其之前的成就，在此基础上，迎来了难得的百花齐放、六茶共春。 The development of tea in the Qing Dynasty, inherited and carried forward the achievements of the Ming Dynasty and before, on this basis, ushered in a rare blossoming of flowers, six teas in spring.

西湖龙井、碧螺春、罗岕茶、六安茶等新茶种、新茶类，此起彼伏，不断涌现。 Xihu Longjing, Biluochun, Luojiaoxian tea, Liu'an tea and other new tea species, new tea types, one after another, continue to emerge.

闽北乌龙茶，受明代松萝茶的技术影响，由蒸青散茶改为炒烘结合。 Minbei oolong tea, influenced by the technology of Songluo tea in the Ming Dynasty, was changed from steamed green loose tea to a combination of frying and baking.

之后，半青半红的武夷松萝，面对旬月后“紫赤如故”的不堪，经过复焙，使之一色，便同时诞生了武夷岩茶和红乌龙。 Afterwards, half green and half red Wuyi pineapple, face ten months after the "purple red as before" is not good, after re-roasting, so that one of the color, it was born at the same time Wuyi rock tea and red oolong.

清代僧人释超全在《安溪茶歌》里，翔实记述了安溪乌龙茶，通过模仿闽北武夷茶而独树一帜的历史背景。 In his Anxi Tea Song, the Qing Dynasty monk Shi Chaoquan wrote an informative account of the historical background of Anxi Oolong Tea, which became unique by imitating Wuyi Tea from northern Fujian Province.

武夷岩茶的制作技术，之后接连影响了闽南乌龙茶和潮州凤凰单丛的诞生。 The production technology of Wuyi Rock Tea then successively influenced the birth of Minnan Oolong Tea and Chaozhou Phoenix Monoceros.

闽南乌龙茶的制作技术，继而又影响到了台湾乌龙茶的崛起。 The technique of making oolong tea in southern Fujian, in turn, influenced the rise of oolong tea in Taiwan.

其证据链，可参见拙作《茶与茶器》的考证。 For its chain of evidence, see the examination in my humble book Tea and Tea Ware.

松烟小种红茶自明末诞生以来，一直以出口为主，影响着各地红茶的纷纷兴起。 Since its birth at the end of the Ming Dynasty, Song Yan Xiao Seed black tea has been mainly exported, influencing the rise of black tea in various places.

鸦片战争以后，开辟五口通商，茶叶出口供不应求。 After the Opium War, the opening of the five ports of commerce, tea exports in short supply.

1886年之后，随着印度、锡兰红茶的崛起，由于清政府的腐败、太平天国战争、英国对茶的操纵、国内某些红茶的质次价高等原因，致使中国在欧美的红茶、绿茶销售一败涂地。 After 1886, with the rise of India, Ceylon black tea, due to the corruption of the Qing government, Taiping Heavenly Kingdom War, the British manipulation of tea, the domestic quality of certain black tea, such as the price of black tea, resulting in China in Europe and the United States, black tea, green tea sales were a flop.

红茶、绿茶出口销路的日益壅塞，国内又消耗不掉如此多的茶叶，接踵而至的惨况，必然是茶园荒芜、民生凋敝。 Black tea, green tea export sales increasingly congested, the domestic consumption of so much tea, the ensuing tragedy, is bound to be the tea plantations barren, people's livelihood.

巧妇难为无米之炊。 The coquettish woman can't cook without rice.

只有在大白茶改植成功以后，具备了好的茶青原料，才能做出品质优良的白毫银针。 Only after the successful reforestation of large white tea, with good tea green raw materials, to make excellent quality of white silver needle.

光绪十五年（1889），政和开始首制白毫银针。 In the fifteenth year of Guangxu (1889), Zhenghe began to make the first white-hair silver needle.

白茶类在光绪年间开始生产，算不上什么重大发明，这在当时纯属是另辟蹊径，也是茶叶市场滞销、无奈之下的自谋出路。 White tea class in the Guangxu years began production, not what a major invention, which at the time was purely another way, but also the tea market stagnation, helpless to seek their own way out.

茶叶制作换个花样，主要是为开拓华人较多的南洋和港澳市场。 Tea production was changed to a different pattern, mainly to open up the market in South China, Hong Kong and Macau, where there were more Chinese.

政和白茶和福鼎白茶在光绪年间的出现时间，与红茶、绿茶在国际市场上的出口受阻与败落，基本是吻合的。 The emergence of Zhenghe White Tea and Fuding White Tea in the Guangxu period basically coincided with the blockage and defeat of black tea and green tea exports in the international market.

真正意义上的黄茶类出现，一定是在炒青技术成熟以后，借鉴过去制作绿茶时、发生黄变的失败经验，通过炒黄、闷黄等技法，提高茶叶品质的一种方式。 The real meaning of the yellow tea class appeared, must be in the frying technology after the maturity of the green technology, drawing on the past production of green tea, the failure of yellowing experience, through the yellowing of frying, smothering yellow and other techniques to improve the quality of tea in a way.

黄茶的加工，一般包含摊晾、杀青、揉捻、闷黄、干燥等基本环节。 The processing of yellow tea generally includes such basic aspects as spreading, killing, kneading, smothering and drying.

杀青，是黄茶加工的重要工序之一。 Killing is one of the important processes in yellow tea processing.

通过杀青以钝化酶的活性，促进茶青内含物质的转化，这对黄茶后期的变化、乃至成茶的品质，都会起到非常重要的作用。 By killing the green to passivate the enzyme activity, to promote the transformation of the tea green content material, which will play a very important role in the later changes of the yellow tea, and even the quality of the finished tea.

黄茶的杀青温度较绿茶稍低，采用多闷少抛的技法，以营造高温湿热的环境，使叶绿素受到较大程度的破坏而降解；同时多酚类化合物，发生非酶性自动氧化和异构化，生成少量的茶黄素，这是黄茶形成黄汤、黄叶的主要物质基础。 Yellow tea greening temperature is slightly lower than green tea, using more smothering less throwing techniques to create a high-temperature, hot and humid environment, so that chlorophyll by a greater degree of destruction and degradation; at the same time polyphenolic compounds, the occurrence of non-enzymatic auto-oxidation and isomerization, the generation of a small amount of theaflavin, which is the formation of yellow tea yellow broth, yellow leaves, the main material basis.

揉捻，可以促进黄茶的黄变。 Kneading promotes the yellowing of yellow tea.

如果揉捻过重，就会造成茶汁损失过多，而使茶汤寡淡。 If kneading is too heavy, it will cause too much loss of tea juice and make the tea soup bland.

因此，对于茶质较嫩的黄芽茶，可以省掉揉捻环节，如蒙顶黄芽、君山银针等。 Therefore, the kneading process can be omitted for the more tender yellow bud tea, such as Mengding Yellow Bud and Junshan Silver Needle.

对于茶青粗老的黄叶茶，适度揉捻是非常必要的。 For the coarse and old yellow leaf tea, moderate kneading is very necessary.

因闷黄工艺的客观存在，若是揉捻过重，不利于黄茶品质的整体提高。 Due to the objective existence of smothering yellow process, if the kneading is too heavy, it is not conducive to the overall improvement of yellow tea quality.

闷黄工艺，是影响黄茶品质的关键工序，对黄茶的黄汤、黄叶、香气以及醇厚鲜甜的高品质的形成至关重要。 Smothering yellow process, is the key process that affects the quality of yellow tea, is crucial to the formation of yellow soup, yellow leaves, aroma and mellow sweet high quality of yellow tea.

黄茶在杀青后闷黄，由于茶叶的含水量较高，其湿热作用可促使蛋白质发生水解和热解，表现为氨基酸总量的上升；使多糖类发生水解，可溶性糖的含量略有增加。 Yellow tea smothered yellow after killing, due to the high water content of tea, its moist heat effect can promote protein hydrolysis and pyrolysis, manifested as a rise in the total amount of amino acids; so that polysaccharides hydrolyzed, the content of soluble sugar increased slightly.

受闷黄工序的影响，生成的部分茶黄素会与茶汤中的咖啡碱发生络合，可使游离的咖啡碱减少20%左右。 Under the influence of the smothering process, some of the theaflavin generated will complex with the caffeine in the tea broth, which can reduce the free caffeine by about 20%.

湿热作用还会使苦涩的酯型儿茶素减少，简单儿茶素的含量增加，使得黄茶的滋味，不苦不涩而甜醇，这是黄茶区别于绿茶滋味的根本不同。 The effect of heat and humidity will also make the bitter ester-type catechins to reduce the content of simple catechins increased, making the taste of yellow tea, not bitter and astringent and sweet alcohol, which is yellow tea different from the taste of green tea is fundamentally different.

黄茶的制作，经过了杀青和闷黄，使得可溶性糖类与氨基酸的含量增加，咖啡碱减少了大约20%，因此，黄茶甘醇味厚，汤滑水细，基本消除了苦味、涩味、鲜爽滋味的存在。 The production of yellow tea, after killing and smothering the yellow, makes the content of soluble sugars and amino acids increased, caffeine reduced by about 20%, so the yellow tea sweet and flavorful, soup smooth water fine, basically eliminating the existence of bitter, astringent, fresh taste.

与绿茶相比，黄茶茶性更趋温和，对胃肠的刺激减缓很多，即使饮得稍浓一点，也无明显的不适感觉。 Compared with green tea, yellow tea is more gentle, the stimulation of the stomach and intestines slowed down a lot, even if you drink a little thicker, there is no obvious discomfort.

黄茶作为一个独特的茶类，甜香宜人，茶性偏于温和，其独特的韵味，是其他茶类无法替代的，本来幽微难从俗。 Yellow tea as a unique type of tea, sweet aroma pleasant, tea nature is on the mild side, its unique flavor, is other types of tea can not be replaced, originally subtle and difficult from the vulgar.

近几年的黄茶市场，萎缩十分严重，在市场上，基本见不到真正闷黄到位的黄茶，很多人已经不识黄茶真滋味。 In recent years, the yellow tea market, shrinkage is very serious, in the market, basically can not see the real boring yellow in place of yellow tea, many people already do not know the true flavor of yellow tea.

其根本原因在于：黄茶的制作工艺复杂，对闷黄的把握较难，制作起来耗时费力，还不见得能够成功。 The fundamental reason is: the production process of yellow tea is complex, difficult to grasp the smothered yellow, time-consuming and laborious production, but also do not necessarily be able to succeed.

市场上的黄茶，要么闷黄太轻，近似绿茶；要么闷黄过度，会有一股不愉悦的水闷、酸腐味道。 The yellow tea on the market is either too lightly smothered, approximating green tea; or overly smothered, and will have an unpleasant watery, sour rotting flavor.

这种非黄非绿、或者外黄芯绿的“假黄茶”，仅有黄茶之名而无黄茶之实，到头来，只能是，十年一觉黄茶梦，赢得青楼薄幸名。 This non-yellow non-green, or outside the yellow core green "fake yellow tea", only the name of yellow tea and no yellow tea, in the end, can only be, ten years a dream of yellow tea, to win a building thin name.

闷黄不足的黄茶，外观不如绿茶翠绿，滋味不如红茶甜醇，苦涩、鲜爽又雷同绿茶，其品质，自然无法得到市场的认可和青睐。 Stuffy yellow insufficient yellow tea, the appearance is not as green as green tea green, taste is not as sweet and mellow as black tea, bitter, fresh and similar to green tea, its quality, naturally, can not be recognized and favored by the market.

而从业者，又不愿为此付出更多的成本和努力，这就是今天的黄茶市场集体沦陷的怪现状。 And practitioners, and unwilling to pay more for this cost and effort, this is today's yellow tea market collectively fell into the strange status quo.

岁月悠悠，欲说黄茶好困惑。 The years are long, and I want to say that yellow tea is good and confusing.

我一度曾对市场上的所谓“黄茶”绝望过，在国内各地的系列课程中，我也很少去讲黄茶，因为找不到能够打动我的、且符合“静清和私房茶”标准的样茶。 I once despaired of the so-called "yellow tea" on the market, and in a series of courses around the country, I seldom talk about yellow tea, because I could not find a sample tea that could impress me and meet the standards of "Jing Qing He Private Tea".

功夫不负有心人，2018年的清明时节，我正好在长沙授课，偶尔喝到一款雅安学生带来的蒙顶黄芽，品后暗暗大喜，内心思忖，这不就是我要苦苦寻觅的传统黄茶吗？ I happened to be teaching in Changsha during the Qingming Festival in 2018, and occasionally drank a Mengding yellow bud brought by a student from Ya'an. I was secretly delighted after tasting it, and thought inwardly, "Isn't this the traditional yellow tea I've been searching for so hard?

课程结束后的第二天，我果断买了直飞成都的机票，满怀信心地奔赴蒙顶山，大有“仗剑天涯，任行远，誓不空还”的气概。 The day after the course, I decided to buy a direct flight to Chengdu, full of confidence to go to Mengding Mountain, with a "sword to the end of the world, any travel far, vowed not to return empty".

在蒙顶山，精选高海拔的老川茶，历时半个多月，从杀青、闷黄、烘干诸环节，亲力亲为，密切关注，终于做出了20余斤令人惊喜的传统蒙顶黄芽。 In the Mengding Mountain, selected high-altitude old Sichuan tea, more than half a month, from the killing, smothering yellow, drying links, personally, pay close attention to, and finally made more than 20 pounds of the surprise of the traditional Mengding yellow buds.

谁知杯中茶？ Who knows the tea in the cup?

粒粒皆辛苦。 The grain of truth.

蒙顶黄芽制作的实践，让我明白，甘醇、温和、甜香，才是黄茶的本来面目。 The practice of making Mengding yellow buds made me realize that sweet, mild and sweet aroma is the original face of yellow tea.

近年来，一哄而上的所谓大师茶，把人们对茶应持有的正确理念带偏了，甚至混淆了是非真相。 In recent years, a flurry of the so-called Master Tea, the people of tea should hold the correct concept of bias, and even confused the truth of right and wrong.

嫩度较高的黄芽茶，在闷黄时，一定要把含水率降到较低的水平，尽可能去干坯闷黄。 Yellow bud tea with higher tenderness, when smothering, must reduce the water content to a lower level, as far as possible to go to dry blank smothering.

我们成功制作的这批黄茶，仅使茶芽稍稍发生黄变，就需要耗时12个小时。 The batch of yellow tea that we successfully made took 12 hours to make just the tea buds slightly yellow.

其后至闷黄到位，所消耗的时间竟长达5天之久。 The subsequent time consumed until the smothered yellow was in place was as long as five days.

最终的结果表明，这批黄芽的内质丰厚，茶汤杏黄明亮，细腻粘稠，滋味甘甜，无任何的苦涩与收敛感，花香浓郁兼有淡淡的果香，耐泡度在十水以上。 The final results show that the yellow buds of this batch of rich inner texture, tea soup apricot yellow bright, delicate viscous, sweet taste, without any bitter and astringent and astringent, floral aroma and light fruity aroma, resistance to brewing in more than ten water.

其优异的品质与表现，基本颠覆了过去我对黄茶的认知。 Its excellent quality and performance basically overturned my perception of yellow tea in the past.

由此我能感悟到，不是黄茶的品质不好，影响了市场的认可度；而是当下，没有人肯埋下头来，下足功夫去用心做茶。 From this I can realize that it is not the quality of yellow tea is not good, affecting the market recognition; but now, no one is willing to bury their heads and make efforts to do tea.

如果仍把绿茶的“鲜爽”滋味，误以为是黄茶的审评标准而去照猫画虎，那基本可以预言，如此做出的黄茶，是不会有明天的！ If the green tea "fresh" flavor, mistaken for yellow tea review standards and go to the cat and draw tiger, it can be basically predicted that so made yellow tea, is not tomorrow!

黄茶在加工过程中，轻微发酵的闷黄原因，造就了黄茶干茶黄、汤色黄、叶底黄的“三黄”特征。 Yellow tea in the processing process, slightly fermented smothered yellow cause, resulting in yellow tea yellow, yellow soup color, yellow leaf bottom "three yellow" characteristics.

由于在整个轻微发酵的过程中，没有茶红素的生成，因此，黄茶的显毫是白色的。 Since there is no production of theobromine throughout the slight fermentation process, the yellow tea's apparent hair is white.

贾母才吃了酒肉，为什么会直接表明自己不喝六安茶呢？ Why would Jamu, who had only eaten the wine and meat, directly indicate that she did not drink the six-anchor tea?

因为深谙养生之道的贾母清楚，六安茶是绿茶，味重性寒，不太适合身体虚弱的老年人饮用。 Because of the deep understanding of the way of health care JiaMu clear, six Ann tea is green tea, taste heavy cold, not very suitable for the frail elderly drink.

在清代的北京，能够品到六安贡茶的人，自然是非富即贵，这也隐隐衬出了妙玉身世背景的不俗。 In Beijing during the Qing Dynasty, people who could taste the Lu'an Tribute Tea were naturally either rich or noble, which also vaguely set off the background of Miaoyu's life.

在梁实秋先生笔下的六安茶，是叶大而绿，饮之有荒野的气息扑鼻。 In Mr. Liang Shiqiu's Liu'an tea, the leaves are large and green, and the drink has the smell of the wilderness in the nose.

有资料表明，在七十年代之前，六安传统茶区中的群体种，25%为大叶种，60%为中叶种，小叶种占15%。 Some data show that before the seventies, 25% of the group species in the traditional tea area of Lu'an were large-leaf species, 60% were medium-leaf species, and small-leaf species accounted for 15%.

这个品种比例告诉我们，六安茶的咖啡碱含量，相对于其他的小叶种绿茶而言，确实是偏高的。 This variety ratio tells us that the caffeine content of Lu'an tea is, indeed, on the high side compared to other small-leaf green teas.

所以，六安茶性偏寒凉，助消化，容易刺激胃肠，降血糖较快。 Therefore, Liu An tea is cold in nature, helps digestion, easily stimulates the stomach and intestines, and lowers blood sugar faster.

张英是清代重臣张廷玉的父亲，官至文华殿大学士兼礼部尚书，他很明白，性寒而重的茶叶，适用于身体壮实之人。 Zhang Ying was the father of Zhang Tingyu, a major minister of the Qing Dynasty, who served as a university scholar of the Mandarin's Hall and the Minister of Rites, and he understood very well that tea, which is cold and heavy in nature, is suitable for people who are physically strong.

这也是贾母不饮六安茶的根本原因。 This is also the fundamental reason why JiaMu does not drink LiuAn tea.

有研究表明，陈期20年左右的白牡丹茶，氨基酸含量降低了13倍，茶多酚减少了2.8倍，黄酮含量升高了2.24倍。 Some studies have shown that white peony tea aged for about 20 years has a 13-fold decrease in amino acid content, a 2.8-fold decrease in tea polyphenols, and a 2.24-fold elevation in flavonoid content.

黄酮含量的升高，与白茶不炒不揉、低温凋萎的制造工艺有关。 The elevated flavonoid content is related to the manufacturing process of white tea without frying or kneading and low temperature withering.

我们知道，茶多酚是茶叶中三十多种酚类物质的总称，约占茶叶干重的18%～36%。 As we know, tea polyphenol is the general name of more than thirty kinds of phenolic substances in tea, accounting for about 18% to 36% of the dry weight of tea leaves.

根据其化学结构的不同，主要分为儿茶素，黄酮，花色素和酚酸等四大类。 According to its chemical structure, it is mainly divided into four main categories: catechins, flavonoids, anthocyanins and phenolic acids.

其中，儿茶素占茶叶干重的10%～25%，而黄酮类物质仅为总量的2%～5%。 Among them, catechins account for 10% to 25% of the dry weight of tea leaves, while flavonoids are only 2% to 5% of the total.

从上述数值我们能够看出，即使黄酮的含量增加2.8倍，与茶多酚总量减少2.8倍的损失相比，不过是九牛一毛。 From the above values we are able to see that even a 2.8-fold increase in flavonoid content is nothing compared to a 2.8-fold decrease in the total amount of tea polyphenols lost.

因此，那种动辄就夸大随着白茶黄酮含量的提高，就会使白茶的抗氧化能力同步提高的谬论，早该休矣！ Therefore, the kind of readily exaggerated with the improvement of white tea flavonoid content, will make the white tea antioxidant capacity of the fallacy of the synchronization of the increase, should have been put to rest!

对任何事物的评价，都需要一分为二、综合衡量，不能只习惯于商业宣传的趋利避害，为什么就看不到茶多酚总量的巨幅降低呢？ Evaluation of anything, need to be one-sided, comprehensive measure, can not only be accustomed to the commercial propaganda of the tendency to avoid harm, why can not see the total amount of tea polyphenol huge reduction?

客观地讲，随着白茶经年的陈化，白茶类总的抗氧化能力，是呈整体下降的。 Objectively speaking, with the aging of white tea over the years, the total antioxidant capacity of the white tea category is in overall decline.

刻意强调或夸大茶中某一种成分的功效，都是只见树木，不见森林。 Deliberately emphasizing or exaggerating the efficacy of a particular ingredient in tea is all about seeing the wood for the trees and not the forest for the trees.

皆是杀敌八百、自伤一千的掩耳盗铃。 It is all a cover-up that kills 800 enemies and injures 1,000.

其认识一定是局限的、片面的，对受众必然会是一种误导。 Its understanding must be limited and one-sided, and it is bound to be misleading to its audience.

我们对老白茶的追求，更多关注的是其甜醇厚滑的口感，如沐春风的愉悦感。 Our pursuit of Old White Tea is more concerned with its sweet, mellow, thick and smooth taste, as pleasant as a spring breeze.

有些高品质的白茶，与岁月俱往时，会陈化出令人惊喜的滋味、嫣红的汤色、迷人的香气，如佳人红颜未老。 Some high-quality white teas, when aged with the years, will be aged with surprising flavor, reddish soup color, and charming aroma, such as a beautiful woman's red face has not aged.

2010年，我存储的一批政和高山荒野料，系高级白牡丹，传统炭焙工艺，别有一种清凉、浓郁的杏仁香气，故名“杏仁香”。 In 2010, I stored a batch of Zhenghe Alpine Wilderness material, which is high-grade white peony, with traditional charcoal roasting process, it has a kind of cool and rich almond aroma, so it is called "Almond Fragrance".

现在品来，竟见梅花的清幽滋味。 Now that I'm tasting it, I can actually see the tranquil flavor of plum blossoms.

为了验证此茶的滋味、香气，2018年的早春，我专程来到南京的梅花山，在微雨薄寒中，细细咀嚼过数十种含苞的、半开的红梅、白梅、绿萼梅等，竟然与“杏仁香”入口的清绝滋味无别。 In order to verify the flavor and aroma of this tea, in the early spring of 2018, I made a special trip to Nanjing's Plum Blossom Hill, in the light rain and cold, chewed through dozens of buds, half-open red plums, white plums, green calyx plums, and so on, but surprisingly, it is no different from the "Almond Fragrance" entrance to a clear and absolute taste.

白茶的咖啡碱含量较高，但茶汤的滋味，为什么甘醇而不苦涩呢？ White tea has a high caffeine content, but the flavor of the tea broth, why is it sweet and not bitter?

白茶的不施揉捻是一个原因，更重要的是，茶汤内各物质相互平衡协调的结果。 White tea is not kneaded for one reason, but more importantly, it is the result of the balance and coordination of the substances within the tea broth.

一方面，茶多酚含量减少了30%左右；茶汤内的咖啡碱与茶黄素形成复合物质，大大减少了茶汤的苦涩程度。 On the one hand, the content of tea polyphenols is reduced by about 30%; the caffeine and theaflavin within the tea broth form a compound substance that greatly reduces the bitterness and astringency of the tea broth.

另一方面，凋萎适度的白茶类，可溶性糖和氨基酸含量的提高，使得茶汤滋味的甜、鲜、稠、厚感增色颇多，遮蔽了茶汤的苦涩。 On the other hand, withering moderate white tea, soluble sugar and amino acid content of the increase, so that the tea soup flavor of sweet, fresh, thick, thick sense of color, obscuring the bitter tea soup.

量较小、溶解度大的物质。 Substances with small amounts and high solubility.

芳香物质由结合态变成游离态，香气成分逐渐增加，低沸点的青臭气逐渐向外散发。 The aromatic substances change from the bound state to the free state, the aroma components gradually increase, and the green odor of the low boiling point is gradually emitted to the outside.

这一切，都为做青奠定了充足的物质条件。 All this lays down sufficient material conditions for being green.

乌龙茶的做青，包含了摇青与凉青两个环节，其本质上就是一个深度凋萎兼发酵的过程，表征为鲜叶与嫩梗反复的缓慢失水以及水分从梗到叶面的补充过程。 The greening of oolong tea, which includes both shaking and cooling, is essentially a process of deep withering and fermentation, characterized by the repeated slow loss of water from the fresh leaves and young stalks and the replenishment of water from the stalks to the leaf surface.

叶面这种由神采奕奕软萎到无精打采，再由蔫头耷脑恢复到水分充盈状态的反复过程，俗称“走水”，即茶青反复交替的“死去”与“活来”。 Leaf surface of this soft withered by the vigor to listless, and then by the wilting and drooping back to the moisture-rich state of the repeated process, commonly known as "go water", that is, the tea green repeatedly alternating between "dead" and "live! The process is commonly known as "water walking", that is, tea green repeatedly alternating between "dead" and "alive".

如果茶青出现局部的梗叶受损，会使梗叶各部位的均匀走水受阻，必然表现为茶汤的青涩与香劣。 If there is localized damage to the stalks and leaves of the tea green, it will prevent the uniform water movement of all parts of the stalks and leaves, which will inevitably manifest itself in the greenish astringency and poor aroma of the tea broth.

在乌龙茶的做青过程中，酯型儿茶素水解，涩感降低；茶多酚氧化为部分的茶黄素和茶红素，使得茶汤橙黄明亮。 During the greening process of oolong tea, ester catechins are hydrolyzed and astringency is reduced; tea polyphenols are oxidized to part of theaflavin and thearubigin, making the tea broth orange and bright.

糖类、氨基酸、果胶等暖性物质增加，香气依次由草青味转变为高沸点的花香、花果香。 Warming substances such as sugars, amino acids, and pectin increase, and the aroma changes sequentially from grassy green to high-boiling-point floral, floral-fruity.

叶绿素发生降解、脱镁、氧化，叶色渐渐由青绿转变为黄绿色。 Chlorophyll undergoes degradation, demagnetization, and oxidation, and leaf color gradually changes from lime green to yellowish green.

当茶青的含水率、香气等万事俱足，接下来就是高温杀青，以钝化酶的活性，并适量散发水分，纯净香气，巩固提高茶的品质，为揉捻创造条件。 When the tea green water content, aroma and other things are sufficient, the next is high temperature killing, in order to passivate the enzyme activity, and the right amount of water, pure aroma, consolidate and improve the quality of tea, to create the conditions for kneading.

茶的焙火，是为了消除残余酶的活性，蒸发水分，并起热化作用，以消除苦涩味，提升茶汤滋味的醇厚度。 Tea is roasted to eliminate residual enzyme activity, evaporate water, and act as a thermalizer to eliminate bitterness and astringency and enhance the mellowness of the tea broth flavor.

适当的焙火，能够有效减少咖啡碱的含量，促进氨基酸与可溶性糖的增加，使茶汤粘稠细滑，茶的寒性便会进一步降低。 Proper roasting can effectively reduce the content of caffeine, promote the increase of amino acids and soluble sugar, so that the tea soup is viscous and smooth, and the coldness of tea will be further reduced.

从乌龙茶的采摘标准及其制作的生化机理分析，传统乌龙茶的寒性，依次会比白茶、绿茶、黄茶、红茶等要低很多，当然，这也要视具体的茶叶而议，因此，乌龙茶对胃肠的刺激较轻。 From the analysis of the harvesting standard of Oolong tea and its production of biochemical mechanism, the coldness of traditional Oolong tea, in turn, will be much lower than white tea, green tea, yellow tea, black tea, etc., of course, this also depends on the specific tea and discussion, so the Oolong tea is lighter stimulation of the stomach and intestines.

若从茶的加工环节审视，其他乌龙茶的成品茶，相当于是传统武夷岩茶的毛净茶。 If you look at the processing of the tea, the finished tea of other oolong teas is equivalent to the gross net tea of traditional Wuyi rock tea.

武夷岩茶独特的焙火工艺，确实是乌龙茶类的一道靓丽风景，通过伐毛洗髓，去芜存菁，才可成就武夷岩茶的岩骨花香，和而不同。 Wuyi rock tea unique roasting process, is indeed a beautiful scenery of oolong tea, through the hair washing marrow, to eliminate the essence of the achievement of Wuyi rock tea rock bone flower fragrance, and different.

查阅古往今来关于茶的文献，茶性大致分为大寒、冷、寒、微寒、凉、微凉等。 Checking the literature on tea throughout the ages, tea properties are broadly categorized into big cold, cold, cold, slightly cold, cool, slightly cool and so on.

茶性的或寒或凉，都源于饮茶后的身体反应，表现为身体对寒的刺激和感受的程度不同。 Tea nature of either cold or cool, are derived from the body's reaction after drinking tea, manifested in the body's stimulation of cold and feel the degree of difference.

能使身体产生清凉感的、舒缓体内燥热之气的，就属寒性。 Those that produce a cooling sensation in the body and soothe the dryness and heat in the body are cold.

中医典籍或诸多文献里记载的茶性“温”，既不是热的表达，也不是暖的感受，是相对其他茶类的不寒而已，更多的言外之意是在强调，茶性温和，刺激性弱。 Chinese medicine canon or many documents recorded in the tea "warm", neither the expression of heat, nor warm feelings, is not cold relative to other types of tea only, more words are emphasizing that the tea is mild, stimulating the weak.

茶禀草木之灵，喜阴好湿，本性难移。 Tea endowed with the spirit of grass and trees, preferring shade and humidity, nature can not be changed.

从属于六大茶类的各种茶，无论怎样加工，无论新旧，茶的清凉本性是不会改变的，发生改变的，仅仅是程度的不同。 Belonging to the six categories of tea, no matter how the tea is processed, no matter how old or new, the tea's cool nature will not change, what has changed is only the degree of difference.

抛除新茶加工时吸收的燥气影响，我们在品饮任何茶类时，身心、胃肠感受到的那种清泠、凉爽、滋润、平静的感觉，就是茶的寒性使然。 Throwing out the dryness absorbed during the processing of new tea, we are drinking any tea, body, mind, stomach and intestines feel the kind of refreshing, cool, moisturizing, calming feeling, is the coldness of the tea to make it so.

这是由于不同季节、不同生态、不同等级、不同加工方式等原因，造成的茶内咖啡碱、氨基酸、糖类等物质的含量差异所致。 This is due to the differences in the content of caffeine, amino acids, sugars and other substances within the tea caused by different seasons, different ecology, different grades, different processing methods and other reasons.

我注意到，在明代的47种中医古籍中，共记载了14种茶性“微寒”的茶，其对应的性味是“甘苦”，而非“苦甘”或“苦”。 I notice that in the 47 ancient Chinese medical books of the Ming Dynasty, there are 14 types of tea that are "slightly cold" in nature, and their corresponding flavors are "sweet and bitter" rather than "bitter-sweet" or "bitter". "Bitter".

这进一步证实了，凡是偏甜的茶，其寒性会相对较弱。 This further confirms that any tea that is on the sweeter side will be relatively less cold.

我们知道，茶树中的生物碱以嘌呤碱为主，而嘌呤碱又以咖啡碱为主要成分，咖啡碱就是决定茶性的根本所在。 We know that the alkaloids in the tea tree are mainly purine alkaloids, and purine alkaloids are mainly caffeine, and caffeine is what determines the nature of tea.

抓住了咖啡碱的含量变化，大致就可掌握茶类寒性的动态变化。 Capturing the changes in the content of caffeine, you can roughly grasp the dynamics of the coldness of the tea.

而咖啡碱的含量，会因茶树品种、季节、生态、加工方式的不同而不断变化着。 The content of caffeine is constantly changing depending on the variety of tea plant, season, ecology and processing method.

适宜做黑茶类的大叶种、比适合做乌龙茶的中叶种和做绿茶的小叶种，其咖啡碱的含量要高得多，其寒性会更重。 The caffeine content of the large-leafed species suitable for black tea is much higher than that of the medium-leafed species suitable for oolong tea and the small-leafed species suitable for green tea, and its coldness will be heavier.

在不同季节中，夏茶、秋茶依次会比春茶的咖啡碱含量高，故夏、秋茶更苦涩。 In different seasons, summer tea, fall tea will be higher than spring tea caffeine content, so summer and fall tea is more bitter.

在同样一株茶中，芽、叶的咖啡碱含量，以茶芽和第一叶含量最高，余者依次递减，而又以茶梗中的含量最低。 In the same tea plant, the caffeine content of buds and leaves is highest in the buds and the first leaf, and decreasing in the rest, and lowest in the tea stalks.

故等级越高、越细嫩的芽茶，在冲泡时投茶量宜适当减少，细嫩的新茶也不适合煮饮。 Therefore, the higher the grade, the more tender bud tea, the appropriate amount of tea in the brewing should be reduced, and the tender new tea is not suitable for cooking and drinking.

另外，咖啡碱在120℃以上具有升华的特性，因此，焙过火的茶类或久存的茶，苦味较低，寒性减弱。 In addition, caffeine has the property of sublimation above 120°C. Therefore, tea that has been roasted or stored for a long time has lower bitterness and weakened coldness.

火的轻重高低，攸关茶叶的寒性变化。 The fire's lightness and severity is a matter of the tea's coldness.

从阴阳五行的辨证规律来看，火生土，土在滋味属于甘，甘则缓之，辛、甘、淡又属阳，故当茶叶经过火的炮制后，滋味会趋于甘甜，茶的寒性会有不同程度的降低，刺激性也会相应的减弱。 From the yin and yang five elements of the law of identification, fire begets earth, earth in the taste belongs to the sweet, sweet is slow, pungent, sweet, light and belongs to the yang, so when the tea after the fire concoction, the taste will tend to be sweet, the coldness of the tea will be reduced to varying degrees, the irritation will be correspondingly weakened.

糖类是茶叶中的主要甜味物质，它是叶片通过光合作用合成的。 Sugars are the main sweetening substances in tea, which are synthesized by the leaves through photosynthesis.

一般来讲，阳光越充足的地方，所生的食物会越偏暖性。 In general, the sunnier the place, the warmer the food produced will be.

茶树的幼嫩茶梢，在光下合成的多为单糖和蔗糖，但也会因呼吸作用分解掉一部分。 The young tea tips of the tea tree synthesize mostly monosaccharides and sucrose in the light, but some of it is also broken down by respiration.

在良好的生态环境里，阳崖阴林，雨雾萦绕，茶树会因植被覆盖率高、昼夜温差大、呼吸作用减弱等，从而积累更多的糖类、氨基酸等有机物质，这也是高海拔茶的茶汤细腻、呈花蜜香的重要原因。 In a favorable ecological environment, with sunny cliffs and shady forests, and lingering rain and fog, tea trees will accumulate more sugars, amino acids and other organic substances due to the high vegetation cover, large temperature difference between day and night, and weakened respiration, which is also an important reason for the delicate and nectar-scented tea broths of high-altitude teas.

氨基酸是茶叶中的主要化学成分，目前已确认的氨基酸有26种之多。 Amino acids are the main chemical components in tea, and as many as 26 types of amino acids have been recognized.

氨基酸是构成茶叶香气和美妙细腻滋味的重要物质，其中含量最高的是游离的茶氨酸，一般占茶叶干重的1%～2%。 Amino acids are important substances that make up the aroma and wonderful delicate flavor of tea, of which the highest content is free theanine, generally accounting for 1% to 2% of the dry weight of tea leaves.

生态良好的春茶含量，可超过2%。 The content of ecologically sound spring tea can exceed 2%.

茶氨酸的存在，对茶叶品质的鲜甜及缓解茶的寒性等，起到了至关重要的协调作用。 The presence of theanine plays a crucial role in harmonizing the fresh and sweet quality of tea and alleviating the chilling effect of tea.

茶氨酸主要在茶树的根部合成，其中以须根部位含量最高。 Theanine is mainly synthesized in the roots of the tea tree, with the highest content in the fibrous root parts.

茶氨酸于秋冬低温季节，在茶树的根部合成，等到来年春天的茶芽萌发期间，才陆续转移到茶树新生的芽叶部位，故茶氨酸以头春茶的含量为最高。 Theanine in the fall and winter cold season, synthesized in the roots of the tea tree, and so on to the next spring during the tea buds sprouting, only to be transferred to the tea tree newborn buds and leaves, so the theanine to the first spring of the tea content is the highest.

在茶树新梢的萌发过程中，如果光照太强，茶氨酸会降解为谷氨酸和乙胺，乙胺会部分参与儿茶素的合成，而使茶叶滋味偏涩。 In the sprouting process of tea tree new shoots, if the light is too strong, the theanine will be degraded to glutamic acid and ethylamine, ethylamine will be partially involved in catechin synthesis, and make the tea taste astringent.

如果是在浓荫蔽日、竹林围合、空气湿润的烂石之地，茶氨酸向儿茶素的转化，就会受到明显抑制，茶氨酸便会在茶树的芽叶部位，得以最大程度地积累下来。 If it is in the shade, bamboo forests surrounded by moist air, rotten rocky land, the conversion of theanine to catechin, will be significantly inhibited, theanine will be in the buds and leaves of the tea tree, to be able to maximize the accumulation of down.

高氨低酚，恰是上好春茶的品质特征。 High ammonia and low phenol is the quality characteristic of good spring tea.

唐代刘禹锡的“阳崖阴岭各殊气，未若竹下莓苔地”，不就是茶树生长需要的绝佳生态的真实写照吗？ Liu Yuxi of the Tang Dynasty wrote, "The sunny cliffs and shady ridges are different from each other, and it is not as good as the berry moss land under the bamboo", isn't it a true portrayal of the excellent ecology needed for the growth of the tea tree?

竹林、烂石、莓苔地上的茶树，毛细根发达，最有利于茶氨酸的合成与积累。 Bamboo forest, rotten stone, berry moss on the ground of the tea tree, capillary roots developed, the most conducive to the synthesis and accumulation of theanine.

茶园里有青青的莓苔、繁芜的杂草，一方面反映了茶山的空气湿润、生态良好；另一方面，也因竹林风味、翠烟微冷，会消解公众对当下茶园滥用灭草剂的质疑和担忧。 There are green berry moss and luxuriant weeds in the tea garden, on the one hand, it reflects that the air in the tea mountain is moist and ecologically sound; on the other hand, due to the flavor of the bamboo forest and the slight coldness of the emerald smoke, it will dissolve the public's doubts and worries about the misuse of herbicide in the tea garden at the present time.

综上所述，生态良好、海拔较高的春茶，由于糖类、氨基酸、芳香物质的含量较高，这些甘温物质的存在，既可遮掩、修饰茶汤的苦涩滋味，又能明显减弱茶叶的寒性与刺激性。 To summarize, spring tea with good ecology and higher altitude is characterized by higher content of sugars, amino acids and aromatic substances, and the presence of these sweet and warm substances can not only mask and modify the bitter and astringent taste of tea broth, but also significantly weaken the coldness and irritation of tea.

因此，明代李中立的《本草原始》说：“细茶宜人”，“粗茶损人，粗恶苦涩，品类之最下者”。 Therefore, the Ming Dynasty Li Zhong's "Original Materia Medica" said: "fine tea is suitable for people", "coarse tea damage, coarse evil bitter and astringent, the category of the lowest".

可见，色清味甘、茶汤细腻、粘稠、密度高，是宜人良茶的主要标志。 It can be seen that the color is clear and sweet, and the tea soup is delicate, viscous and dense, which is the main sign of a good and pleasant tea.

茶类寒性的强弱，主要取决于茶中游离咖啡碱的含量高低，与糖类、氨基酸、脂类、芳香物质等组分比例，也有密切关系。 The strength of the tea cold, mainly depends on the tea in the free caffeine content of high and low, and sugar, amino acids, lipids, aromatic substances and other components of the ratio, but also has a close relationship.

茶类的发酵与否，与茶的寒性变化关联度并不高。 The fermentation or non-fermentation of the tea type does not correlate well with the change in the coldness of the tea.

例如在低温状态下，红茶的轻发酵，会导致咖啡碱含量的增加，可能会使茶叶的寒凉程度加重。 The light fermentation of black tea at low temperatures, for example, leads to an increase in caffeine content, which may make the tea more chilly.

又如黑豆本为平性，通过发酵做成的酱油，则变成寒性食品。 Another example is that black beans, which are originally flat, become a cold food when made into soy sauce through fermentation.

从上述例证可知，发酵并非是决定茶性寒温的必要条件，也没有证据表明，发酵的茶叶，一定会变成温性或热性。 From the above examples, it is clear that fermentation is not necessary to determine the coldness or warmth of tea, and there is no evidence that fermented tea, necessarily becomes warm or hot.

况且，红茶、乌龙茶的所谓“发酵”，只是茶多酚在多酚氧化酶作用下的有氧氧化，而非真正意义上的微生物主导的发酵过程。 Moreover, the so-called "fermentation" of black tea and oolong tea is only the aerobic oxidation of tea polyphenols under the action of polyphenol oxidase, rather than the true sense of microbial-led fermentation process.

但是，由于茶红素、茶褐素会对咖啡碱具有一定的络合作用，使得茶中游离的咖啡碱的溶出率，有不同程度的降低或含量减少，因此，茶叶发酵程度的高低，与茶叶的寒性变化，有一定的间接的相关度。 However, due to the theobromine, theobromine will have a certain complexation of caffeine, so that the free caffeine in the tea dissolution rate, there are different degrees of reduction or content reduction, therefore, the degree of fermentation of tea, and the change in the coldness of the tea, there is a certain degree of indirect correlation.

对茶类寒性影响最大的，莫过于茶叶在干燥或精制过程中，其焙火温度、焙火频率等因素的影响。 The greatest influence on the coldness of tea, no more than the tea in the drying or refining process, its roasting temperature, roasting frequency and other factors.

火生茶色，焙火强度与茶类的寒性变化，是呈正相关的。 The fire produces tea color, and the roasting intensity is positively correlated with the change in the coldness of the tea.

国内外多组数据表明，红茶的酶促氧化及黑茶的渥堆发酵，可能会增加茶中的咖啡碱含量。 Several sets of data at home and abroad show that the enzymatic oxidation of black tea and the pile fermentation of black tea may increase the caffeine content in tea.

但是，为什么经过发酵的成品茶，会变得滋味醇和甘甜、茶性温和了呢？ But why is it that after fermentation, the finished tea becomes mellow and sweet in flavor and mild in nature?

我们往往只关注茶类是否发酵，而忽略了茶的干燥、焙火对此造成的关键影响。 We tend to focus on whether or not the tea is fermented, ignoring the critical impact that the drying and roasting of the tea has on this.

首先，毛茶的干燥、成品茶的复火、精制，都会有效地降低咖啡碱的含量。 First of all, the drying of the gross tea, the reheating and refining of the finished tea will effectively reduce the caffeine content.

其次，茶的深度氧化或发酵，降低了涩味的酯型儿茶素的含量，增加了香气成分。 Second, the deep oxidation or fermentation of the tea reduces the amount of astringent ester catechins and increases the aroma component.

对红茶来讲，增加了可溶性的糖类与水溶性果胶的含量。 For black tea, it increases the content of soluble sugars and water-soluble pectin.

对黑茶来讲，尽管可溶性糖类与氨基酸的含量会有所降低，但是，茶多糖和水溶性果胶的含量，却是有了明显的增加。 For black tea, although the content of soluble sugars and amino acids will be reduced, but the content of tea polysaccharides and water-soluble pectin, is a significant increase.

还要注意一点，黑茶类采得比较粗老，与其他茶类比较，糖类的含量本身要高很多，其咖啡碱的含量，也是低出很多的。 It should also be noted that the black tea type is more coarse and old, compared with other types of tea, the sugar content itself is much higher, and its caffeine content, is also much lower out.

另外，尽管茶叶的发酵过程，可能会增加成品茶中咖啡碱的含量，但是，发酵茶类还存在一个不易被觉察的特点，即是随着多酚类物质的氧化、发酵程度的加深，咖啡碱与其形成不溶性酚类复合物的比例就越大，茶汤中游离的咖啡碱含量，相应的就会越低。 In addition, although the fermentation process of tea leaves may increase the content of caffeine in the finished tea, however, there is also an imperceptible feature of fermented teas, that is, with the oxidation of polyphenols, deepening of the degree of fermentation, caffeine and its formation of an insoluble phenolic complex of the proportion of the greater, the free caffeine content in the tea broth, and accordingly the lower the caffeine content.

这才是发酵茶类寒性降低、茶汤醇和、甜润的根本原因。 This is the fundamental reason why fermented teas are less chilly, mellow and sweet.

我们经常碰到一些以次充好的茶类，尤其是普洱生茶，刚买回来冲泡时，会很甜香，存放一段时间后，往往会变得苦涩加重。 We often come across some substandard teas, especially Puerh Raw Tea, which will be very sweet and fragrant when just bought and brewed, and tend to become bitter and astringent after being stored for a period of time.

其原因大概是，在茶叶的炒制过程中，利用湿闷产生的茶黄素，来复合降低游离态的咖啡碱含量。 The reason for this is presumably that the theaflavin produced by wet smothering is utilized in the frying process of tea to compound the reduction of free caffeine content.

待以时日，等茶中的不稳定的酚类复合物分解以后，咖啡碱又重新游离出来进入茶汤，从而使茶汤的滋味变苦。 Over time, when the unstable phenolic complexes in the tea are broken down, caffeine will be free again and enter the tea broth, thus making the tea broth taste bitter.

一阴一阳之谓道。 One yin and one yang is called the Way.

任何事物都包含着阴阳的两个方面，阴阳双方发生转化的内在根据，即是阴阳互根、互藏、互寓的辩证关系。 Everything contains two aspects of yin and yang, and the inner basis for the transformation of yin and yang is the dialectical relationship between yin and yang, which are rooted in each other, hidden in each other, and residing in each other.

茶性的寒、凉，在一定条件下是可以转化的，这就需要具体问题具体分析。 Tea nature of cold, cool, under certain conditions can be transformed, which requires specific issues to be analyzed.

当茶里的咖啡碱等阴性物质含量偏高时，茶汤表现为滋味苦涩，茶性就偏于寒凉。 When the content of caffeine and other negative substances in the tea is high, the tea broth shows a bitter taste, and the tea is cold.

根据寒凉程度的不同，依次体征为大寒、寒、微寒。 Depending on the degree of coldness, the signs are, in order, great cold, cold, and slight cold.

当茶里的阳性物质茶氨酸、糖类、果胶等含量较高时，茶汤就表现为甜润顺滑，依次体征为凉、微凉、温凉。 When the tea is high in the positive substances theanine, sugars, pectin, etc., the tea broth is sweet and smooth, characterized in turn by cool, slightly cool, and warm cool.

当甘寒性凉的高品质茶，因投茶量、出汤时间等外在因素，造成茶汤浓度的突然升高时，微凉的茶类，也可能表征为寒或微寒。 When the sweet and cold nature of cool high-quality tea, due to the amount of tea casting, soup time and other external factors, resulting in a sudden increase in the concentration of tea soup, slightly cool tea, may also be characterized as cold or slightly cold.