南宁荷韵翻译公司

                   作者：苏静  单位：广西农业职业技术大学人文与艺术学院

在生产过程之中，有机会茶不允许使用人工合成的农药、化肥和植物生长调节剂，更不许使用除草剂等物质。 In the production process, Tea has the opportunity to not allow the use of synthetic pesticides, fertilizers and plant growth regulators, not to mention the use of herbicides and other substances.

我的老家在湖南新化县与安化县的交界处，是湖南黑茶的主要生产区域，我是喝着黑茶长大的。 My hometown is on the border of Xinhua and Anhua counties in Hunan, which is the main production area of black tea in Hunan, and I grew up drinking black tea.

迁居城市后，才发现家乡的名字已随黑茶而广为人知。 After moving to the city, I realized that the name of my hometown had become widely known with the black tea.

常常有人与我谈茶，当说到黑茶时，我很自豪地告诉他们：那是我故乡的茶，我是地道的“黑茶之子”。 Often people talk to me about tea, when it comes to black tea, I am very proud to tell them: that is the tea of my hometown, I am the authentic "son of black tea".

从安化江南往洞市沿新化七里冲到安化浮清至乐安桥一线，都是出产安化黑茶的区域。 From Anhua Jiangnan to Cave City along the Xinhua Chirichong to Anhua Fuqing to Le'anqiao line, are the production of Anhua black tea area.

这里山尖林密，寒暑温差大，降雨量丰富，云雾缭绕。 The area is characterized by sharp mountains and dense forests, large temperature differences between summer and cold, abundant rainfall and clouds.

山林中常有清泉汩汩流出，煮水泡茶，甜而清爽神怡。 There are often clear springs gurgling in the mountains and forests, boiling water for tea, sweet and refreshing.

据《中国名茶谱》记载：这里产的茶最著名的是渠江薄片、安化松针、红茶等。 According to "Chinese Famous Tea Spectrum", the most famous teas produced here are the thin slices of Qiujiang, Anhua pine needles and black tea.

安化黑茶不同于普通黑茶，历史上流传的安化黑茶是大茶叶。 Anhua black tea is different from ordinary black tea, the Anhua black tea that has been passed down in history is a big tea.

大茶叶属于野生茶种，非种植类茶叶，生长在荒山野岭间，枝繁叶茂，铺张开来，一蔸茶树有数千枝蔓，匍匐数十米，可产出几百上千斤鲜茶叶，然后做成上百块茶砖、茶饼。 Big tea belongs to the wild tea species, non-planting tea, growing in the wild mountains and mountains, branches and leaves, spread out, a root and branch of the tea tree has thousands of branches and vines, creeping tens of meters, can produce hundreds of thousands of fresh tea leaves, and then made into hundreds of tea bricks, tea cakes.

20世纪70年代末80年代初，安氏一带山区产过一批非常优秀的黑茶，后来其他树木长得高过茶树，遮挡住了阳光，茶树慢慢萎缩、死亡。 In the late 1970s and early 1980s, the mountains around An produced a number of very good black tea, and then other trees grew taller than the tea trees, blocking the sunlight, and the tea trees slowly shriveled and died.

接着，农民在开垦的地里种了茶树，茶叶稍小，叶片稍薄，后来生产的茶砖全是以中茶叶为原料，以机器揉做生产，成为比较粗糙的黑茶。 Then, the farmers planted tea trees in the reclaimed land, the tea leaves are slightly smaller, the leaves are slightly thinner, and then the production of tea bricks are all based on the medium tea leaves as the raw material, kneaded by the machine to do the production, becoming a relatively rough black tea.

我七八岁时，就随父母混迹茶园，在母亲的教导下学会摘茶、采茶、选茶、种茶等事务。 When I was seven or eight years old, I mixed with my parents in the tea gardens, and learned under my mother's tutelage to pluck tea, pick tea, select tea, plant tea and other matters.

那时被父母看重的是清明茶、谷雨茶，茶叶经过仔细采摘、认真挑选后，做成上等细茶。 At that time, what was valued by parents was Qingming tea and Guyu tea, where tea leaves were carefully picked and selected to make fine tea.

茶树经过冬天冰雪的考验，开春冰寒稍缓，千茶万树发芽散叶，鹅黄的两片芽叶上顶着一个青绿的芽儿，用指甲掐断嫩芽，一天摘不到十斤鲜茶叶。 Tea trees after the test of winter ice and snow, the beginning of spring ice cold a little slow, thousands of tea trees sprouting and leaf dispersal, goose-yellow two buds and leaves on top of a green bud, with fingernails pinch off the shoots, a day to pick less than ten pounds of fresh tea leaves.

然后，放阴凉处散开，经过半天的风嗍，晚饭后开始揉搓，直到流出绿色的泡沫浓液，再播散，又轻揉，用蔑盆装好，覆上湿毛巾发酵几小时，再把茶叶散开风干。 Then, put it in the shade to disperse, and after half a day's wind-shirt, after dinner begin to knead it until a thick liquid of green foam flows out, sow it again, knead it lightly again, put it in a scorn-bowl, and cover it with a wet towel to ferment it for a few hours, and then disperse the tea to air-dry it.

风干后，清掉鹅黄的对叶，才是上好的细茶，可作为擂茶的原料。 After air-drying, clearing off the goose-yellow pair of leaves, it is the best fine tea, which can be used as the raw material for ring tea.

农家采完谷雨茶后，在地里种上庄稼，茶树再次长出新芽，经过雨水的催发和阳光的沐浴，茶叶迅速生长。 After the farmers picked the Guyu tea, they planted crops in the ground, and the tea trees once again sprouted new buds, which grew rapidly after being catalyzed by rain and bathed in sunlight.

到七八月间，茶叶长到七八寸至尺余，茶茎清脆，叶子嫩绿，摘下茶芽，尚带着露水，青翠欲滴的茶浆散发着芳香，老人把这叫红茶，因为泡的茶水带红色。 To July and August, the tea leaves grow to seven or eight inches to more than a foot, tea stems crisp, tender green leaves, plucked tea buds, still with dew, verdant tea syrup exudes fragrance, the old man called this black tea, because of the brewing of tea with red.

经过杀青、揉捻、渥堆、松柴明火四大工艺，黑茶就做成了。 After the four major processes of greening, kneading, piling, and pine wood open fire, the black tea is made.

安化黑茶加工讲究，渥堆和松柴明火干燥特别需要注意。 The processing of Anhua black tea is delicate, and the drying of the pile and the open fire of the pine wood need special attention.

渥堆是决定黑茶茶品的关键步骤，晒青毛茶堆放到一定高度后，洒水，然后覆盖麻布使之湿热发酵，加速茶叶陈化，渥堆程度越重，茶汤颜色越深。 Ovation is a key step in deciding the black tea products, sun green tea stacked to a certain height, sprinkle water, and then covered with linen so that the hot and humid fermentation, accelerate the tea aging, Ovation process degree of the heavier, the deeper the color of the tea broth.

松柴明火干燥是黑茶独特的干燥方法，可以给茶叶带来松烟的香味。 Pine wood open fire drying is a unique drying method for black tea, which can bring the aroma of pine smoke to the tea leaves.

黑茶色泽黑褐油润，滋味醇和或微涩，汤色红黄明亮，用盖碗的沸水冲泡即可。 Black tea is dark brown and oily in color, mellow or slightly astringent in taste, with reddish-yellow and bright soup color, and can be brewed with boiling water in a covered bowl.

黑茶性质温润，老少皆宜，清热利尿，解肥腻和消滞，可抑制脂肪，有助减肥。 Black tea is warm in nature, suitable for both young and old, clearing heat and diuretic, relieving fat and eliminating stagnation, and can inhibit fat and help to lose weight.

黑茶营养成分也很丰富，含维生素、矿物质、蛋白质、氨基酸、糖类等，对牛肉、羊肉、奶酪有去油腻的作用。 Black tea is also rich in nutrients, containing vitamins, minerals, proteins, amino acids, sugars, etc. It has a de-greasing effect on beef, lamb and cheese.

黑茶主要供西部边区牧民饮用，又称边销茶，是藏族、蒙古族、维吾尔族兄弟的日常生活必需品，他们“宁可一日无食，不可一日无茶”。 Black tea is mainly used for herdsmen in the western border areas, also known as border tea, is the daily necessities of Tibetans, Mongolians and Uyghurs, who "would rather have no food than no tea".

黑茶是发酵茶，是我国独有的茶类。 Black tea is fermented tea, which is a unique type of tea in China.

黑茶历史悠久，花色品种丰富，最早的黑茶出现在11世纪北宋熙宁年间的四川，是由绿毛茶蒸压成的边销茶，又称“番茶”。 Black tea has a long history, colorful varieties, the earliest black tea appeared in the 11th century Northern Song Dynasty during the Xining years in Sichuan, is steamed by the green tea into the border tea, also known as "Fan tea".

当时交通不便，运输困难，为了减少体积而将茶叶蒸压成块。 At that time, transportation was difficult, in order to reduce the volume of tea leaves steamed into blocks.

毛茶经过二十多天的湿坯堆积，逐渐变黑，团块色泽黑褐，风味独特。 After more than twenty days of accumulation of wet blanks, the gross tea gradually turns black, and the clusters are black and brown in color, with a unique flavor.

黑茶按产区和工艺分湖南黑茶、湖北老青茶、四川边茶、滇桂黑茶。 Black tea according to the production area and process of Hunan black tea, Hubei old green tea, Sichuan border tea, Dian Gui black tea.

湖南黑茶集中在新化县与安化县交界处，益阳、桃江、宁乡、汉寿、沅江等县少量生产，最好的原料数高马二溪的茶叶。 Hunan black tea is concentrated in the junction of Xinhua and Anhua counties, with a small amount of production in Yiyang, Taojiang, Ningxiang, Hanshou, Yuanjiang and other counties, and the best raw material counts the tea of Gao Ma Er Xi.

湖南黑茶色泽油黑，汤色橙黄，叶底黄褐，香味醇厚，松烟飘香，装篓的有天尖、贡尖、生尖三尖，成砖的有黑砖、花砖、茯砖。 Hunan black tea color oil black, soup color orange-yellow, yellow-brown leaf bottom, mellow fragrance, pine smoke fragrance, the basket has a sky tip, Gong Jian, Sheng Jian three tips, into the brick has a black brick, flower brick, Por brick.

湖北老青茶产于蒲圻、咸宁、通山、崇阳、通城，茶叶粗老，经杀青、揉捻、初晒、复炒、复揉、渥堆、晒干等工序后，蒸压成砖，老青砖主销内蒙古。 Hubei old green tea produced in Puqi, Xianning, Tongshan, Chongyang, Tongcheng, tea leaves coarse old, after killing, kneading, initial sun, re-frying, re-kneading, Ottawa, sun-drying and other processes, steaming into bricks, the old green bricks are mainly sold in Inner Mongolia.

四川边茶分南路、西路，雅安、天全、荥经生产南路边茶，压制成康砖、金尖，主销西藏，也销青海、甘孜；灌县、崇庆、大邑生产西路边茶，蒸压后装篾包或圆包，主销四川、青海、甘肃、新疆。 Sichuan side tea divided into South Road, West Road, Ya'an, Tianquan, Xingjing production of South Road side tea, pressed into Kang brick, gold tip, the main sales in Tibet, also sold in Qinghai, Ganzi; irrigation county, Chongqing, Dayi production of West Road side tea, steam pressure after the gabion bag or round bag, the main sales in Sichuan, Qinghai, Gansu, Xinjiang.

滇桂黑茶中的云南黑茶用滇晒青毛茶经潮水沤堆发酵干燥而成，统称普洱茶。 Dian Gui black tea in Yunnan black tea with Dian sun green Maocha by tide composting fermentation and drying, collectively known as Pu'er tea.

广西黑茶最著名的是六堡茶，产于苍梧县六堡乡，有200年历史，经杀青、揉捻、沤堆、复揉、干燥，毛茶仍需潮水沤堆，蒸压装篓，堆放陈化。 Guangxi black tea is the most famous six fort tea, produced in Cangwu County, six fort township, has a history of 200 years, after killing, twisting, composting, re-rubbing, drying, gross tea still need to tide composting, steaming basket, stacking and aging.

黑茶中的紧压茶有茯砖茶、黑砖茶、花砖茶、湘尖茶、青砖茶、康砖茶、金尖茶、方包茶、六堡茶、圆茶、紧茶等。 The tightly pressed teas in black tea include Por brick tea, black brick tea, flower brick tea, Xiang Jian tea, green brick tea, Kang brick tea, golden tip tea, square packet tea, Liu Bao tea, round tea, tight tea and so on.

黑茶产量大，仅次于红茶、绿茶，是我国第三大茶类。 Black tea is produced in large quantities, second only to black tea and green tea, and is the third largest tea category in China.

黑茶中的高档品种是茯砖茶，也称伏砖茶、泾阳砖、福茶、附茶等，独具菌花香。 The high-grade variety of black tea is Por Brick Tea, also known as Fu Brick Tea, Jingyang Brick, Fu Tea, Annexed Tea, etc., which is characterized by the fragrance of fungus and flowers.

现代茯砖茶分特制茯砖和普通茯砖两种。 Modern Porcupine Tea is divided into two types: special Porcupine and ordinary Porcupine.

安化的黑茶主要是茶砖和千两茶。 Anhua's black tea is mainly tea bricks and Qianliang tea.

我曾经在西部的敦煌等地旅游，看到的茶叶都是安化黑茶，餐馆里最流行的茯茶就是黑茶加花椒、姜煮的茶水，很受牧民欢迎。 I once traveled to Dunhuang and other places in the west, and all the teas I saw were Anhua black tea, and the most popular Por Tea in the restaurants was the tea boiled with black tea plus peppercorns and ginger, which was very popular among the herdsmen.

安化是个带有传奇色彩的梅山古邑，有着古老的梅山文化和繁缛的梅山礼仪，在那宽阔的土地上，有多个小城，在我的记忆里留下了深刻的印象。 Anhua is an ancient Maysan town with a legendary history, with ancient Maysan culture and elaborate Maysan rituals, and there are several small towns in that wide land that have left a deep impression on my memory.

小时候，常听母亲提起安化擂茶，也听母亲念叨过喝擂茶的烦琐工艺。 When I was a child, I often heard my mother mention Anhua tea, and I also heard her recite the tedious process of drinking tea.

母亲说，喝好擂茶要去安化，才能体会那些讲究和韵味。 My mother said that you have to go to Anhua to drink good ring tea in order to appreciate the delicacy and flavor.

安化人热情好客，遇上客人，见面第一句就是“快进屋，喝茶！” Anhua people are so hospitable that when they meet guests, the first thing they say is, "Come in and have some tea."

这里的茶就是擂茶。 The tea here is ring tea.

擂茶是中国茶文化的一种，起于汉，盛于明清，其色香味、工艺制法、习俗礼仪、药效食用等已有一套完整的文化体系，在安化、桃江、益阳、常德、新化等地有一定知名度，早就为人熟识。 Ring tea is a kind of Chinese tea culture, started in Han, flourished in Ming and Qing Dynasties, its color and flavor, technology and method, customs and etiquette, medicinal effects of edible and so on has a complete set of cultural system, in Anhua, Taojiang, Yiyang, Changde, Xinhua and other places have a certain degree of popularity, has long been familiar with people.

1985年，日本人专程到安化考察茶种起源和制作工艺，将擂茶工艺带回日本，并广为传播，大受欢迎。 In 1985, Japanese people made a special trip to Anhua to investigate the origin of the tea species and the production process, and brought the tea-ringing process back to Japan, where it was widely spread and became very popular.

擂茶主要的原料是黑茶，黑茶是个古老的茶种，可以追溯到蚩尤退出中原，偶居梅山的时候。 The main raw material of the tea is black tea, black tea is an ancient tea, can be traced back to Chi You quit the Central Plains, even live in the time of Meishan.

梅山是古老的南蛮之地，山深林密，水恶瘴笼，蛇蚁蜂虫无处不在，高山密林中的茶叶成了消炎化毒的良药，生嚼和熟蒸都有极好的功效，慢慢被人们制成茶饮。 Meishan is an ancient land of southern barbarians, deep forests, water and miasma cage, snakes, ants and bees everywhere, the tea in the dense forests of the mountains became a good anti-inflammatory medicine, raw chewing and cooked steaming have excellent effect, slowly made into tea.

加之安化地处高山地带，雪峰山脉与资江伴随其中，所产茶叶属高山云雾茶系列，加上煮茶的雪峰山泉，茶水回味甘甜，沁人心脾。 In addition, Anhua is located in the alpine zone, Xuefeng Mountain Range and Zijiang River accompanied by the tea produced by the alpine cloud tea series, coupled with the Xuefeng Mountain Spring for cooking tea, the tea aftertaste sweet, refreshing.

民间把擂茶列为药茶，加上草药擂于茶中，既解渴又治病。 Folk classify the tea as medicinal tea, plus herbs in the tea, both to quench the thirst and cure the disease.

在家乡待了十九年，没有好好喝过地道的安化擂茶，更没有做过深入的品味。 After nineteen years in my hometown, I have never had a good taste of authentic Anhua ring tea, let alone a deep taste.

流落长沙，虽时有回家探亲，生活的疾苦摆脱不了尘世的纠缠，多年来只在记忆中惦念着安化擂茶。 Changsha, although from time to time to go home to visit relatives, the hardships of life can not get rid of the entanglement of the world, for many years only in the memory of Anhua ring tea.

2009年春节前夕，我到安化县东坪镇探望朋友，品味了惦念已久的安化擂茶，终于见识到擂茶的魅力和风韵。 On the eve of the Spring Festival in 2009, I went to visit my friends in Dongping Township, Anhua County, and tasted the Anhua ring tea that I had missed for a long time, and finally saw the charm and charm of the ring tea.

擂茶分原料、辅料两类，原料有大米、芝麻、玉米、绿豆、黄豆、姜米、花生米、盐、茶叶等，经过擂钵，纯靠手工擂成糊状，加开水冲泡即可饮服。 Tea is divided into two categories of raw materials, accessories, raw materials are rice, sesame, corn, mung beans, soybeans, ginger rice, peanut rice, salt, tea, etc., after the bowl, purely by hand into a paste, plus boiling water can be drunk.

辅料有花生、葵瓜子、南瓜子、麻糖、猫耳朵、薯片（条）、糖粒、饼干等九碟，多为炒熟的香脆之物，也有一两样副食品，边喝茶边吃碟子，以此打发饮茶间隙。 Accessories are peanuts, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, sesame candies, cat ears, potato chips (strips), sugar granules, cookies and other nine dishes, mostly fried crispy things, but also one or two kinds of side dishes, while drinking tea while eating dishes, as a way to pass the tea drinking gap.

擂茶用料讲究、工序繁杂。 The tea is made with delicate ingredients and complicated procedures.

主料一定要手工现场擂制，有客来，边烧开水边抓大米放擂钵里研磨。 The main ingredients must be hand-beaten on the spot, and when you have guests, you boil water while grabbing rice and grinding it in the bowl.

主料先选上好的茶叶，多为细茶叶或清明前茶，也可以加甘草、菊花、艾叶等中药材。 The main ingredients are first selected from good tea leaves, mostly fine tea leaves or pre-Ching Ming Ming tea, but you can also add licorice, chrysanthemum, mugwort and other Chinese herbs.

擂钵为陶制带棱槽土钵，擂棒为油茶树原木。 The ringing bowl is a ceramic earthenware bowl with ribbed grooves, and the ringing stick is a log of the oil tea tree.

擂钵夹在两大腿间，小腿屈抱，双手握擂棒成推磨式旋转，米浆和其他香脆之物慢慢融合，变成黏稠物状，直到听不到擂钵中有“呲咔呲咔”声，擂棒被黏住转不动，就说明擂茶浆已经打好。 Ring bowl sandwiched between the two thighs, calf flexion embrace, both hands holding the rod into a push mill type rotation, rice syrup and other crispy things slowly fusion, into a viscous substance, until you can not hear the ring bowl in the "CiaoKaCiaoKa" sound, the rod is stuck to rotate motionless, it means that the tea paste has been played well.

浆擂好后冲入刚烧开的开水，使劲搅拌数下，擂茶水迅速形成，香味四起，杂味飘逸，像花蕾般芬芳。 After the pulp is beaten and rushed into the freshly boiled water, stirring vigorously for several times, the tea water is rapidly formed, the fragrance rises in all directions, and the miscellaneous flavors float away, like the fragrance of flower buds.

手工擂茶可以保持茶与香脆之物的原汁原味，更能留存主料的甜纯，让人迷恋。 Hand-rolled tea can keep the original flavor of tea and crispy things, and moreover retain the sweet purity of the main ingredient, which is fascinating.

慢慢品味擂茶水，细小的颗粒在舌尖上滚动，产生散漫的动感；柔滑的擂茶水缓缓流过舌头，滑下喉咙，甜润在口、余味无穷。 When you slowly savor the tea water, the tiny particles roll on the tip of your tongue, creating a diffuse sense of movement; the smooth tea water slowly flows over your tongue and down your throat, sweet and moist in your mouth, with an endless aftertaste.

进入口中的擂茶，有咸、辣、甜、香诸味，散漫在味蕾周围，弥漫着阵阵香醇，稠稠的擂茶水，缠裹在舌唇，沁出点点香晕。 Into the mouth of the tea, salty, spicy, sweet, fragrant flavors, scattered around the taste buds, filled with gusts of mellow, thick tea, wrapped in the tongue and lips, seeping out of the point of aroma.

喝完一碗擂茶，奔波的疲劳消失殆尽，马上精神焕发，身心舒爽。 After drinking a bowl of ring tea, the fatigue of running around disappears and you are immediately refreshed and relaxed.

安化擂茶品种甚多，按地域有梅城擂茶、大福擂茶、后乡擂茶、前乡擂茶等十余品种，按功能有止渴、消炎、防暑、抗寒、充饥、解馋等。 There are many varieties of Anhua ring tea, according to the region, there are more than ten varieties such as Meicheng ring tea, Dafu ring tea, Houxiang ring tea, Qianxiang ring tea, etc. According to the function, there are thirst quenching, anti-inflammatory, preventing summer heat, resisting the cold, filling the hunger, quenching cravings and so on.

擂茶起源安化，扩散到新化、桃江、常德等地，也有些改良和变异：桃江改变了擂茶的主味调，由咸变甜；益阳只有喝擂茶的习惯，却没有喝擂茶的文化；新化夹杂其他茶饮，没有单独把擂茶摆于席面；常德是因一群安化姑娘嫁到那里，带去了喝擂茶的习俗。 The ring tea originated in Anhua, spread to Xinhua, Taojiang, Changde and other places, there are some improvements and variations: Taojiang changed the main flavor of the ring tea, from salty to sweet; Yiyang has only the habit of drinking the ring tea, but not the culture of drinking the ring tea; Xinhua intermingled with other teas, did not put the ring tea on the table alone; Changde is due to a group of girls from Anhua marrying there, and brought the custom of drinking the ring tea.

擂茶主要在于茶文化，即品茶或喝茶的过程。 The ring tea lies mainly in the tea culture, i.e. the process of tasting or drinking tea.

擂茶做好后，大伙儿坐上八仙桌，每人一碗擂茶水，九个碟子放在八仙桌台面中央，边说着“喝茶喝茶”，边举起杯子，慢慢品饮。 After the tea is done, everyone sits on the eight-imperial table, each person has a bowl of tea, nine saucers placed in the center of the eight-imperial table, saying "drink tea, drink tea," while lifting the cup, slowly sipping.

喝擂茶，少不了要说些儿女家常，也就要慢条斯理品饮，辅料和副食也就起到了作用，像下酒菜一样发挥了它的价值。 Drinking tea, it is inevitable to say some children's family life, but also to slowly and methodically sipping, accessories and side dishes also play a role, like a dish of wine to play its value.

在敬茶、添水的过程中消磨时间，一台擂茶可以喝上半天。 Passing the time in the process of tea honoring and water refilling, a single ring of tea can be drunk for half a day.

我的老家与陶澍故居小淹镇相隔仅三十余里，幼年时常看地方花鼓戏《陶澍私访南京》，听老人讲陶澍的传奇故事，对陶澍有着莫名的崇敬。 My hometown and Tao Shu's hometown of small drowning town only thirty miles apart, when I was a child I used to watch the local flower-drum opera "Tao Shu private visit to Nanjing", listen to the old man tell the legendary story of Tao Shu, Tao Shu has inexplicable reverence.

成人以后，我也多次去安化东坪出差，途径小淹镇，只能在车上与陶澍故居隔江相望，看看沧桑的文澜塔和陶澍与左宗棠曾共同种植的大片茶园。 Adults, I also went to Anhua Dongping many times on business, through the small drowning town, can only be in the car and Tao Shu's former residence across the river, to see the vicissitudes of the Wenlan Tower and Tao Shu and Zuo Zongtang had planted a large area of tea plantations together.

2011年11月，我和朋友去安化拜访楹联书法家梁大宏先生，终于有机会到陶澍故居一行。 In November 2011, my friend and I went to Anhua to visit Mr. Liang Dahong, a pillar calligrapher, and finally had a chance to visit Tao Shu's former residence.

小淹镇位于安化东部，地沃物丰，盛产茶叶，公元923年已成为资水中游的商贸集散地，宝庆、新化客商在此建立商行，是通往益阳、汉口的重镇。 Located in the eastern part of Anhua, the town is fertile and rich in tea. In 923 AD, it had already become a trading center in the middle reaches of the Zishui River, where merchants from Baoqing and Xinhua set up trading houses, and it was a major town leading to Yiyang and Hankou.

梁大宏说陶澍故居有两处，一处是陶氏祠堂，在江南镇茅坪村，旁有陶澍三世祖陵园。 Liang Dahong said Tao Shu's former residence in two places, one is Tao's ancestral hall, in the town of Jiangnan Maoping Village, next to the Tao Shu three ancestors mausoleum.

另一处在北岸沙湾村，现改名陶澍村。 The other is in Sha Wan Village on the north shore, now renamed Tao Shu Village.

陶澍每次回到故乡，先去茅坪村祭祖，住两三个月，给地方老百姓断案。 Tao Shu every time he returned to his hometown, first went to Maoping village ancestor worship, live two or three months, to the local people to break the case.

我们先来到陶澍三世祖陵园，走安化黑茶的贩运路线茶马古道，途经永锡风雨廊桥，时间冲刷，留下了斑斑痕迹，一路走，一路叹息。 We first came to Tao Shu three ancestor mausoleum, walk Anhua black tea trafficking route tea horse ancient road, passing through Yongxi wind and rain corridor bridge, the time washed, leaving a speck of traces, all the way to go, all the way to sigh.

陶澍三世祖陵园经过修缮后，墓表和石羊等物都在，但还是显得有些简陋。 The mausoleum of Tao Shu's third ancestor has been restored, and the tomb table and stone goat and other things are all there, but it still looks a bit simple.

陵墓在半山腰，坐落在山凹中，有大山环抱之势，我们恭恭敬敬三鞠躬凭吊陶氏先祖。 The mausoleum is halfway up the hill, nestled in a hollow with a large mountain surround, we respectfully bowed three times to honor our Tao ancestors.

下山再去陶氏祠堂，现只剩正在修缮的房屋，唯独座椅、卧具和陶澍审案的公案还在，看上去依旧威严。 Down the hill and then go to the Tao's ancestral hall, now only the house is being repaired, only seats, bedding and Tao Shu trial of the case of the case is still there, looks still majestic.

环视祠堂四周围墙，斑斓的青砖散发历史的幽光，让人无限缅怀。 Looking around the fence surrounding the shrine, the mottled green bricks emit the ghostly light of history, making people infinitely reminiscent.

我们又直奔小淹，去寻找陶澍读书的印心石屋。 We headed straight for Xiaoyan again to find the Yinxin stone house where Tao Shu reads.

印心石屋在小淹南岸，需坐渡船过资江。 Yinxin Stone House is on the south bank of Xiaoyuan, and you need to take a ferry to cross the Zijiang River.

车开到码头，早有渡船等候，于是车停在渡船上，看船悠悠划过江水。 When the car arrived at the pier, there was a ferry waiting, so the car parked on the ferry and watched the boat leisurely row across the river.

碧蓝的资江，深不可测，让我想起童年泛舟游资江的时光。 The blue Zijiang River, unfathomable, reminds me of my childhood canoeing the Zijiang River.

接近南岸，江中浮出一块巨石，那是陶澍童年读书之处，也就是传说中的印心石屋。 Close to the south bank, the river floated a huge stone, that is Tao Shu childhood reading place, that is, the legendary Yinxin stone house.

船靠岸，江中有个古塔倒影，抬头望去，高山围绕，绿树成林，文澜塔耸立在山冈上。 Boat docked, there is an ancient tower reflection in the river, look up, surrounded by high mountains, green trees, Wenlan Tower towers on the hillock.

我们站在文澜塔旁，向南岸望去，有块石崖很显眼，俨然巨龟一般，正是御书崖。 We stood beside the Wenlan Pagoda, looking toward the south bank, there is a stone cliff is very conspicuous, just like a giant tortoise in general, it is the Royal Book Cliff.

从文澜塔往前走三四百米是陶澍的尚书宅，20世纪60年代改为陶澍小学，现为陶澍实验中学，即安化三中。 Three to four hundred meters ahead from Wenlan Pagoda is Tao Shu's Shangshu Residence, which was converted into Tao Shu Primary School in the 1960s, and is now Tao Shu Experimental Middle School, i.e. Anhua Third Middle School.

操场上有两株陶澍亲手种植的玉兰，苍虬蔽日，花开如盘，香远益清。 On the playground there are two magnolias planted by Tao Shu himself, gnarled and sun-shaded, the flowers bloom like a disk, the fragrance is far away and clear.

周围的菜园中还有数株古老的茶树，这些曾经属于陶澍家的茶园，陶澍和左宗棠曾亲自采摘过。 There are also several ancient tea trees in the surrounding vegetable gardens that once belonged to Tao Shu's family, which Tao Shu and Zuo Zongtang had personally picked.

我们特意去观看了这些茶树，茶叶厚实宽阔，浓绿鲜活，隆冬不掉。 We made a point of viewing these tea trees, the tea leaves are thick and broad, thick green and vibrant, and don't fall off in the middle of winter.

嘉庆七年四月二十一日，陶澍参加保和殿策试，尝到了“内府新茶”，即嘉庆皇帝赐给他喝的贡茶。 Jiaqing seven years on April 21, Tao Shu to participate in the Baohe Temple test, tasted the "new tea in the house", that is, the emperor gave him to drink the tribute tea.

陶澍从小就生长在茶乡，是位采茶能手，在采茶季节，他一大清早就背着箩筐上山采茶。 Tao Shu grew up in the tea country, is a tea picker, in the tea picking season, he early in the morning on the back of the basket on the mountain tea picking.

陶澍由采茶人变为品茶人，开始钟爱品茶，品茶成为他为官之余的一大爱好。 Tao Shu from tea picking people into tea tasting people, began to love tea, tea has become a major hobby for his official side.

后来，陶澍在京师、四川、江苏等地为官，却念念不忘家乡的茶叶和家乡采茶人的艰辛。 Later, Tao Shu in the capital, Sichuan, Jiangsu and other places as an official, but do not forget the hometown of tea and hometown of tea picker's hardships.

近年，在茶亭附近还发现几块石碑，为陶澍任两江总督时为鹞子尖茶马古道捐钱修路的记载，陶澍的父亲陶必铨曾为茶亭作《鹞子尖茶引》一文。 In recent years, near the tea pavilion also found a few stone tablets, for Tao Shu served as Governor of the two rivers for the harrier tip of the old tea road donations to repair the road records, Tao Shu's father, Tao Biquan tea pavilion for the Harrier tip of the tea cited an article.

道光五年，道光皇帝将陶澍奉送的安化茶赐名天尖茶，列为皇帝专用茶。 Daoguang five years, the Daoguang Emperor Tao Shu presented Anhua tea named Tianjian tea, as the emperor's special tea.

安化天尖茶有皇上的垂爱、朝廷官员的推崇，迅速得到推广。 Anhua Tianjian tea has the emperor's love, the court officials to promote, and quickly get popularized.

茶农们对天尖茶的制作更为精细，以每年谷雨后采摘的鲜嫩茶叶为原料，沿用篾筛、篾盘、木风叉、木匣篾篓装包、焙笼烘茶、丝茅插孔透气、干燥凉置等十八道传统工艺，精心制作，年有进贡，以此为荣，茶园快速发展，产销进入鼎盛时期。 Tea farmers on the production of Tianjian tea is more delicate, to pick fresh tea leaves after the annual rain as raw materials, along with the gabion sieve, gabion plate, wooden wind fork, wooden box gabion basket bag, baking cage baking tea, silk Mao jack ventilation, drying and cooling and other eighteen traditional crafts, carefully crafted, the year there is a tribute to the pride of the tea plantations, rapid development, production and marketing into the heyday.

陶澍还培育了一位真正的茶人，那就是左宗棠。 Tao Shu also cultivated a real tea man, that is Zuo Zongtang.

陶澍回安化途径醴陵渌江书院，与左宗棠因为一副对联结为好友，并结为儿女亲家。 Tao Shu back to Anhua way liling Bryan river academy, and Zuo Zongtang because of a pair of couplets for good friends, and tied for children's family.

陶澍回南京不到一年，在两江总督任上去世后，左宗棠受托照顾陶澍的儿子。 Tao Shu returned to Nanjing in less than a year, after the death of the governor of the two rivers, Zuo Zongtang was entrusted to take care of Tao Shu's son.

左宗棠到安化小淹的宫保第官邸居住，一住是八年，边种茶边教女婿读书。 Zuo Zongtang to Anhua Xiaoyan Gongbao Di official residence, a residence is eight years, while growing tea and teach his son-in-law to read.

后来，左宗棠回到湘阴的柳庄，在家种了七十多亩茶园。 Later, Zuo Zongtang returned to Liuzhuang in Xiangyin and planted more than seventy acres of tea plantations at home.

陶澍一生三次回小淹，每次回乡都不忘游览茶园、考察茶场、拜访茶农、品味乡茶，还应邀为家乡的茶场、茶亭题联题诗。 Tao Shu life three times back to the small flood, each time back to his hometown do not forget to tour the tea plantation, investigate the tea field, visit the tea farmers, taste the tea, but also invited for the hometown of the tea field, the tea pavilion inscription inscription poem.

可见安化茶叶畅销全国，甚至饮誉海外，与陶澍对安化茶的重视和推广分不开，与陶澍茶诗的宣传和影响也是分不开的。 Visible Anhua tea sells well across the country, and even reputation overseas, and Tao Shu on the importance of Anhua tea and promotion is inseparable, and Tao Shu tea poetry propaganda and influence is also inseparable.

奉家山属于新化西部边远高寒山区，为雪峰山脉中段，平均海拔一千米以上，峰峦叠嶂，山势险恶，切割深度达数百米。 Bongjia Mountain belongs to the remote and alpine mountainous area in the west of Xinhua, which is the middle part of Xuefeng Mountain Range, with an average elevation of more than 1,000 meters, with peaks and peaks, treacherous mountains, and cutting depths of hundreds of meters.

清代以前，奉家山叫元溪山，因元溪闻名，地域覆盖水车、奉家、岗东（今属溆浦）。 Before the Qing Dynasty, Bongjia Mountain was called Yuanxi Mountain, famous for Yuanxi, and the territory covered Shui Che, Bongjia and Gangdong (now belonging to Xupu).

奉家山与隆回、溆浦接壤，曾是明清时候瑶人的聚居地，至今还有瑶人冲、瑶人凼、瑶人村、瑶人屋场、瑶人街等地名传世，还有瑶人庙等遗址存在。 Bongjiashan, bordering Longhui and Xupu, was once a settlement of Yao people in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and there are still Yao people Chong, Yao people Cesspit, Yao people village, Yao people house, Yao people street and other place names passed down, and there are also Yao people temples and other sites exist.

奉家山蒙洱冲原名蒙耳冲，一年四季雨雾弥漫，迷蒙了人眼，所以取名蒙眼冲。 Bongjalsan Mengerchong was originally known as Mengerchong, which was named after the rain and fog that blinded people throughout the year.

因地形像人的耳朵，又有人叫它蒙耳冲。 Because the terrain resembles a human ear, some people call it Mung-er-chong.

当地人迷信金木水火土，希望用水克火，又改名蒙洱冲，流传至今。 The local people were superstitious about gold, wood, water, fire and earth, and hoped to use water to overcome fire, and then changed the name to Meng Erchong, which has been passed down to the present day.

蒙洱冲下一公里处，有个村庄叫錾字岩村，以出产贡品茶闻名于世。 One kilometer below Meng Er Chong, there is a village called burin rock village, which is famous for producing tribute tea.

这里谷深林茂，层峦叠嶂，树木密布，河流纵横。 It is a place of deep valleys, lush forests, dense trees and rivers.

常年云雾弥漫，雨量充沛。 Cloudy and rainy all year round.

野生茶树极多，生长茂盛，茶芽极嫩，有“山崖水畔，不种自生”的架势。 Wild tea tree is very much, lush growth, tea buds are very tender, there are "cliffs and water, not planted self-generated" posture.

錾字岩原名凤鸣山。 The burr rock was formerly known as Fengming Mountain.

相传在唐代时期，八仙之一的张果老骑着毛驴经过奉家山，口渴进农家讨茶喝，当时天寒地冻，热忱的农民怕张果老喝不得凉茶，特意为他烧制一壶野生浓茶，浓郁的热茶温暖了张果老的身子。 Legend has it that during the Tang Dynasty, Zhang Guolao, one of the Eight Immortals, rode a donkey through Fengjia Mountain, and was thirsty enough to go into a farmer's house to ask for a cup of tea. At that time, it was freezing cold, and the enthusiastic farmers were afraid that Zhang Guolao would not be able to drink the herbal tea, and they specially burned a pot of wild and strong tea for him, and the rich, hot tea warmed up Zhang Guolao's body.

张果老感谢茶农的古道热肠，在奉家山渠江边的巨石上挥笔写下一个“茶”字，又点化周边的野生茶树百来蔸为一片茶园。 Zhang Guolao thanked the tea farmers of the old-fashioned warm-hearted, in the Fengjia Mountain Drainage River on the boulder waved his pen and wrote a "tea" character, but also pointing out the surrounding wild tea trees hundreds of root and stem for a tea plantation.

第二年春天，茶园的茶叶长势格外茂盛，茶叶香气弥漫，味道浓厚鲜甜，清香可口，回味无穷。 In the spring of the second year, the tea garden was extraordinarily lush, the tea aroma filled the air, the flavor was thick and sweet, fragrant and delicious, with a lingering aftertaste.

当地农民把这座錾字岩茶园视为仙茶，并把写有“茶”字的巨石称之为錾字岩。 Local farmers burin rock tea garden as immortal tea, and write the word "tea" boulder called burin rock.

渠江之源在新化奉家山，由蒙洱冲、青猴江、姑娘河等溪流汇聚而成，流经新化奉家、溆浦、安化等地而北入资江。 The source of Qiujiang River is in Fengjia Mountain of Xinhua, which is formed by the convergence of streams such as Meng Erchong, Qing Monkey River, and Girl River, and flows into Zijiang River in the north through Fengjia, Xupu, and Anhua of Xinhua.

奉家山蒙洱冲、川坳一带，海拔在800米以上，峻岭挺拔，云雾缭绕，雨量充沛，溪流潺潺，土质肥沃，是种植茶叶的天然宝地。 Bongjia Mountain Meng Erchong, Chuan Au area, the altitude of 800 meters above sea level, steep mountain elevation, cloudy, abundant rainfall, gurgling streams, fertile soil, is a natural treasure of planting tea.

宋神宗使用怀柔政策征服大梅山，置新化、安化两县，把古梅山纳入北宋版图。 The Song Shenzong used a policy of wistfulness to conquer Dameishan and set up two counties, Xinhua and Anhua, to incorporate the ancient Meishan into the Northern Song Dynasty.

南宋孝宗隆兴三年（1165年），新化县官下乡登记稻田，投宿改名錾字岩的凤鸣山，感慨其茶色香味美，于是采买一包献给孝宗，孝宗喝后大喜，赐名贡品茶。 South Song Emperor Xiaozong Longxing three years (1165 years), Xinhua county official down the countryside registration of rice paddies, accommodation renamed burin rock Fengming Mountain, lamented the color and flavor of its tea beauty, and then buy a packet of dedication to Emperor Xiaozong, Emperor Xiaozong drank the great joy, given the name of the Tribute Tea.

县官得到皇帝嘉奖，来到凤鸣山的錾字岩茶园边，在岩石上錾出“贡品茶”三字以示纪念，凤鸣山也由他在地图上改名錾字岩。 County officials were awarded by the emperor, came to Fengming Mountain burin rock tea garden side, in the rock burin out "tribute tea" three words to commemorate, Fengming Mountain also by him on the map renamed burin rock.

錾字岩与蒙洱冲同属一座山坡，只是位置有上下，茶质完全一样。 Burin Rock and Meng Er Chong belong to the same hillside, just the location has up and down, the tea quality is exactly the same.

宋代时期，新化向朝廷纳税，仅仅以錾字岩、蒙洱冲等地的贡茶代税，当时的贡茶产量极少，年产贡茶十六七斤。 Song Dynasty period, Xinhua to the court taxes, only to burin word rock, Meng Er Chong and other places of the tribute tea instead of tax, when the tribute tea production is very small, the annual output of tribute tea 16 or 17 pounds.

錾字岩茶被列为宋代茶苑中的名品。 The buri rock tea is listed as a famous product in the tea garden of the Song Dynasty.

宋、元、明等数朝，奉家山的瑶民不忍压迫，反抗四起，兵事不断。 During the Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties, the Yao people of Bongjia Mountain did not tolerate the oppression and resisted in all directions.

明太祖朱元璋登基称帝，将錾字岩茶列为皇宫贡茶。 Ming Taizu Zhu Yuanzhang ascended to the throne as emperor, the burin rock tea as the palace tribute tea.

蒙洱茶采制要求高，采摘茶叶在清明节前后七至十天之内，雨天、风霜天不采摘，茶叶如有虫伤、细瘦、弯曲、空心、茶芽开口、茶芽发紫、不合尺寸等问题则不能采摘。 Meng'er tea picking requirements are high, picking tea within seven to ten days before and after the Ching Ming Festival, rainy days, wind and frost days are not picked, tea if there are insect injuries, thin, curved, hollow, tea buds, tea buds open, tea buds purple, not the size of the problem can not be picked.

自明朝洪武年间到清代道光年间，古币贡茶历史长达近500年之久，成为当世现存的贡茶历史最悠久的茗品，堪称湖南贡茶极品。 Since the Ming Dynasty Hongwu years to the Qing Dynasty Daoguang years, the history of the ancient coins tribute tea for nearly 500 years, become the world's existing tribute tea history of the longest tea, can be called the best tribute tea in Hunan.

明代永乐元年（1403年），新化县令指导奉家山村民垦种茶园，茶叶生产得到了更大的发展。 In the first year of Yongle of the Ming Dynasty (1403), Xinhua county magistrate instructed the villagers of Fengjiashan to reclaim the tea plantation, and the tea production was developed even more.

清代同治年间，奉家米茶被列为清廷贡品，以抵“征粮”。 During the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, Bongjia rice tea was listed as a tribute to the Qing court to offset the "grain levy".

奉家米茶芽叶细嫩，香气馥郁，氨基酸、儿茶素含量尤高。 Bongjia rice tea has tender buds and leaves, rich aroma, and particularly high amino acid and catechin content.

当地人称“若得米茶天天饮，明目益思人长春”。 Local people say, "If you get the rice tea every day to drink, eyesight benefit from thinking about people long spring".

奉家山水资源丰富，山地气候明显，最适宜中药材、茶叶、高山延迟蔬菜的种植。 Bongjia is rich in landscape resources and has a distinct mountain climate, which is most suitable for the cultivation of traditional Chinese medicine, tea, and delayed vegetables in the high mountains.

錾字岩、蒙洱冲在双林峡谷，即千里渠江的源头，现在开发成渠江源茶文化主题公园，包括蒙洱冲贡茶园和姑娘河自然景观。 Burin Rock and Meng Erchong are in Shuanglin Canyon, the source of the Thousand Mile Drainage River, which is now developed into the Drainage River Source Tea Culture Theme Park, including the Meng Erchong Tribute Tea Plantation and the Girl's River Natural Landscape.

蒙洱冲旁的川坳村，世代住着几户李姓人家，他们的祖辈以种茶为业。 Chuan Au Village, next to Meng Er Chong, has been home to several families with the surname Li for generations, whose ancestors grew tea as a business.

晚清时期，他们主要是生产青砖茶，沿着渠江水运到资江或者翻过紫鹊界运到水车，汇集到新化、安化的茶叶大流中。 In the late Qing Dynasty, they mainly produced green brick tea, which was transported along the water of the Qiujiang River to the Zijiang River or over the Zijie Border to the Shuicha, where it was gathered into the great stream of tea in Xinhua and Anhua.

村民李洪玉的祖父，就是制作青砖茶的茶人之一。 Villager Li Hongyu's grandfather was one of the tea men who made green brick tea.

李洪玉的父亲继承了茶人的身份和职业，在20世纪五六七十年代，负责青猴江流域及蒙洱冲、錾字岩等村的茶叶收集、制作，并经营川坳村的东风茶厂，生产红碎茶。 Li Hongyu's father inherited the identity and profession of a tea man, and in the 1950s, 60s and 70s, he was responsible for the collection and production of tea in the Qinghoujiang River Basin and in the villages of Meng'erchong and Burinziyan, and operated the Dongfeng Tea Factory in the village of Chuanao, where he produced black crushed tea.

直到20世纪90年代，川坳村的东风茶厂改为青猴江茶厂，才由李洪玉经营，生产蒙洱茶、奉家米茶、月芽茶。 It was not until the 1990s that the Dongfeng Tea Factory in Chuanao Village was transformed into the Qinghoujiang Tea Factory, which was operated by Li Hongyu, producing Meng'er Tea, Bongjia Rice Tea, and Moon Bud Tea.

1982年起，娄底茶叶学会、科委组织茶叶界的专家和技术人员在继承蒙洱茶、奉家米茶等传统工艺的基础上，借鉴各类名茶的采摘经验和加工技术，于1985年成功地将奉家山的茶叶研制为形质皆美的月芽茶。 Since 1982, Loudi Tea Society, Science and Technology Commission to organize tea experts and technicians in the inheritance of tea, Feng family on the basis of the traditional craft, drawing on various types of tea picking experience and processing technology, in 1985 successfully Fengjiazhuang mountain tea developed for the shape and quality of the beautiful moon bud tea.

1986年，月芽茶通过省级鉴定，在全国名茶评比会上一举夺魁，获商业部颁发的优质产品证书。 In 1986, the moon bud tea passed the provincial appraisal and won the first prize in the national famous tea competition, and was awarded the certificate of high quality products by the Ministry of Commerce.

月芽茶为炒青绿茶，制茶的茶叶在清明到谷雨时期采摘，茶叶一芽一叶，经过杀青、揉拧、整形、干燥等几个主要的工艺制作而成，芽叶细嫩，香气馥郁，氨基酸、儿茶素含量尤高。 Moon bud tea is fried green tea, the tea leaves are picked during the period from Qingming to Guyu, the tea leaves are one bud and one leaf, and are made through several major processes such as killing, kneading and twisting, shaping, drying, etc. The buds and leaves are tender and the aroma is rich, and the content of amino acids and catechins are particularly high.

月芽茶外形呈弯弯的形状，犹如峨眉月一般，色翠较深，香气高长，汤色绿亮，滋味鲜醇，叶底嫩亮。 Moon bud tea has a curved shape, like the Emei moon, with darker color, high and long aroma, bright green soup color, fresh and mellow taste, and tender and bright leaf bottom.

仔细看颜色呈深绿色，茶叶上可以看到些许的白毫，冲泡后的茶汤呈绿色，茶叶片片舒展，叶脉清晰可见。 The color is dark green when you look closely, you can see some white hairs on the tea leaves, the tea broth is green after brewing, the tea leaves are stretching and the leaf veins are clearly visible.

品饮时滋味鲜香、甘爽，茶的香味比较浓郁持久。 The taste is fresh, sweet and refreshing, and the aroma of the tea is relatively strong and long-lasting.

我曾多次到访奉家山，寻访蒙洱冲、錾字岩、川坳村等地，在蒙洱冲下确实找到一块巨大的石壁，高数十米，宽约百米，如刀削斧劈，森然挺立。 I have visited Fengjia Mountain many times, searching for Meng Erchong, burin rock, Chuan Au Village, etc. I did find a huge stone wall under Meng Erchong, dozens of meters high and about 100 meters wide, like a knife and axe, standing upright.

渠江源头的溪流从下面哗哗流过，有惊涛拍岸之势。 The stream at the source of the Drainage River crashes through below with a thrilling force.

再细观石壁，隐约有一个巨大的“茶”字。 Look closely at the stone wall, there is a huge word "tea".

远望山坡上，有农舍五六栋，问行人，说均以种茶为生。 Look away from the hillside, there are five or six farmhouses, ask the pedestrians, said all to plant tea for a living.

初夏时节，农舍前摆放着一张张竹盘，都是晒的新茶，散发出阵阵清香，引人沉醉。 In early summer, a bamboo tray is set up in front of the farmhouse, all of which are sun-dried new tea, emitting a fragrant aroma that entices people to become intoxicated.

衡山是我国著名的佛教圣地之一，也有“五岳独秀”之称，游人如织。 Hengshan is one of China's famous Buddhist shrine, also known as the "five mountains alone", tourists like weaving.

走近衡山，才知道衡山林壑幽深，山岚弥漫，古木参天，巍峨秀丽。 Approaching Hengshan Mountain, only to realize that Hengshan Mountain is deep in the woods and ravines, filled with mountain mists, ancient trees, lofty and beautiful.

衡山共有七十二峰，逶迤绵延八百余里，气势磅礴。 Hengshan Mountain has seventy-two peaks, stretching over 800 miles in a magnificent manner.

衡山气候温和湿润，一年有280天云雾缭绕，烟雨弥漫。 Hengshan has a mild and humid climate, with 280 days a year filled with clouds and smoke.

衡山最有名的山峰是祝融峰，也是衡山主峰。 The most famous peak in Hengshan is Zhu Rong Peak, which is also the main peak of Hengshan.

夏季，很多旅游者都喜欢登上祝融峰顶极目远眺，北望烟波浩渺若隐若现的洞庭湖，南眺奔腾起伏如幛如屏的五岭，东看宛如玉带飘然北去的湘江，西瞩云雾缭绕时有时无的雪峰山。 In summer, many travelers like to climb to the top of the Zhu Rong Peak, looking out over the Dongting Lake in the north, looking out to the south, such as hanging scrolls such as the screen of the Five Ridges, looking east like a jade belt floating north of the Xiangjiang River, the west to see the cloudy and misty Xuefeng Mountain sometimes.

冬天，衡山白茫茫的雪景和极地冰凌，山顶林立的雾凇，清晰可见，别有一番北国风光。 In winter, the white snow and polar ice of Hengshan Mountain, the top of the mountain forested with freezing fog, clearly visible, a different kind of northern scenery.

春天，春风吹绿了山岚，从衡山山脚向祝融峰顶攀登，看见那绿油油的梯茶，蜿蜒曲折，横卧在山梁上，那飘逸的姿势，令人非常向往。 In the spring, the spring breeze blows green mountains, from the foot of Hengshan Mountain to the top of Zhu Rong Peak climbing, see the green terraced tea, winding, lying across the mountain beams, the floating posture, is very desirable.

当时的衡山云雾茶，已经名满京师，唐太宗把衡山云雾茶列为首批贡茶，供应皇室品茗需求。 At that time the Hengshan Yunwu tea, has been famous in the capital, Tang Taizong Hengshan Yunwu tea as the first tribute tea, supplying the royal family tea needs.

衡山的云雾茶，古称岳山茶，久负盛誉。 Hengshan's Yunwu Tea, anciently known as Yue Shan Tea, has a long-standing reputation.

最有名的是广济寺周边的毗陵茶，得名于广济寺旁有个毗陵洞，是我国有名的佛茶。 The most famous is Guangji Temple around the Biling tea, named after the Guangji Temple next to a Biling Cave, is China's famous Buddhist tea.

广济寺位于衡山石廪峰下，祝融峰、芙蓉峰、紫盖峰之间的山梁腹谷间，正是广济寺、铁佛寺、华盖峰的所在地。 Guangji Temple is located in Hengshan Mountain under the stone granary peak, Zhu Rong Peak, Furong Peak, Zi Gai Peak between the beams of the mountain between the belly of the valley, it is the location of the Guangji Temple, Iron Buddha Temple, Huagai Peak.

在这片宽深各二十里的狭长山谷里，三面环山拥抱，古木林立苍穹，泉水潺潺不绝，经常云缠雾绕。 In this narrow valley, twenty miles in width and depth each, embraced by mountains on three sides, ancient trees stand in the sky, springs gurgle incessantly, and clouds are often entangled in the mist.

山谷土地深厚、肥沃、湿润，海拔800～1100米，阳光和煦，最适宜于小茶叶的生长。 The valley land is deep, fertile, moist, 800 to 1,100 meters above sea level, and sunny and warm, which is most suitable for the growth of small tea leaves.

这里产的茶叶又尖又长，宛如枪尖，状似利剑。 The tea leaves produced here are sharp and long, like the tip of a gun, resembling a sword.

做好的茶叶泡沏后尖子朝上，两片叶瓣斜展如旗，颜色鲜绿，沉在水里，香气浓郁，滋味醇厚，纯而不淡，浓而不涩，多次冲泡，汤色清澈，甜润醉人，甜辛酸苦，恰似玉花绽放，风姿多彩，小呡一口，沁人心脾，让人回味。 Do a good job of tea steeping tip upwards, two leaf petals diagonally spread like a flag, bright green in color, sunk in the water, aroma and mellow taste, pure and not light, strong and not astringent, many times brewing, clear soup color, sweet and intoxicating, sweet and pungent and bitter, just like a jade flower bloom, colorful style, a small bite, refreshing, let a person aftertaste.

衡山云雾茶制作精细，分杀青、清风、初揉、初干、整形、提毫、摊凉、烘焙八道工序。 Hengshan Yunwu tea production is delicate, divided into killing, wind, the first kneading, the first drying, shaping, hair, cooling, baking eight processes.

杀青是奠定衡山云雾茶品质的关键，鲜叶下锅，炒手徒手翻炒，炒茶者神态自如，观者感叹不已。 Killing is to lay the key to the quality of Hengshan Yunwu tea, fresh leaves in the pot, frying hand barehanded stir-frying, tea fryer demeanor, the viewer sighs.

衡山云雾茶素以秀丽多毫、翠绿匀润、鲜爽醇厚、嫩香持久闻名遐迩，被誉为全国五大著名云雾茶之一。 Hengshan Yunwu Tea is known for its beautiful hair, green color, freshness, mellowness and long-lasting fragrance, and it is regarded as one of the five famous Yunwu teas in China.

衡山泉水甚多，品质兼优，有毗庐、太阳、虎跑等36处名泉，都是从花岗老岩中渗出，水质极好，冲泡茶叶，汤色明亮清澈，香气清高味醇。 Hengshan spring water is very much, the quality of both excellent, there are 36 famous springs such as Vishnu, sun, tiger, etc., are seeped from the granite old rock, water quality is excellent, brewing tea, soup color is bright and clear, the aroma of high flavor mellow.

南宋时期，日本僧人道元到中国求法，受戒于衡山曹洞宗十三代孙发静。 During the Southern Song Dynasty, the Japanese monk Dogen traveled to China to seek the Dharma and was ordained by Fajing, the thirteenth grandson of the Cao Dong Sect in Hengshan.

道元大师学成后，将南岳曹洞宗及禅茶文化传入日本，才有了日本佛法和禅茶共同发展、共同繁荣的鼎盛时期，后来慢慢演变成日本现在的茶道。 Dawon masters studied after the completion of the Nanyue Cao Dong Sect and Zen tea culture into Japan, only to have the Japanese Buddhism and Zen tea co-development and prosperity of the heyday, and later slowly evolved into Japan's current tea ceremony.

衡山的每座寺庙都有自己的茶园，供僧侣种植。 Each temple in Hengshan has its own tea garden for the monks to grow.

各寺设有“茶堂”，供寺僧饮茶辩说佛理。 Each temple has a "Tea Hall" for monks to drink tea and debate Buddhist principles.

衡山众僧善采制和品饮云雾茶，坐禅时，每焚完一炷香，僧侣都要饮茶，以提神集思，解除喉咙渴苦，慢慢成为衡山寺庙的“茶中有禅、茶禅一体、茶禅一味”的特色。 Hengshan monks are good at picking and drinking cloud tea, sitting in meditation, each burned incense, monks have to drink tea to refresh their minds, quench their throats, slowly become Hengshan temple "tea in the Zen, tea Zen one, tea Zen one flavor" features.

每当四月初，衡山广济寺周边的茶园，遍布采茶女和僧人的身影。 In early April, the tea gardens around Hengshan Guangji Temple are dotted with tea pickers and monks.

茶女身着蓝衫，背挎茶篓，巧手翻飞如梭，采摘鲜嫩的茶叶；僧人身着黄色佛裳，一手提长袍，一手采摘茶叶。 Tea women dressed in blue shirts, carrying tea baskets, hands flying like a shuttle, picking fresh tea leaves; monks dressed in yellow Buddhist clothes, a handful of robes, one hand picking tea leaves.

这样巨幅的采茶美景，远远欣赏，都让人无限感叹。 The beauty of such a huge tea-picking scene, admired from afar, is infinitely breathtaking.

古代寺庙多有私属耕地，供僧人耕种。 Ancient temples often had private arable land for monks to cultivate.

茶与禅的结合，渐渐产生了中国佛教文化中的独特一味——禅茶。 The combination of tea and Zen gradually gave rise to Zen tea, a unique flavor in Chinese Buddhist culture.

唐代大中三年（849年），宰相裴休在宁乡沩山建密印寺，灵佑禅师及其大弟子慧寂在密印寺合创禅宗五派之一的沩仰宗，并置大片茶园，种茶解禅，供寺内僧人使用，也常给施主品味。 Tang Dynasty Dazhong three years (849 years), Chancellor Pei Huo in Ningxiang Weishan built Miyin Temple, Lingyou Zen Master and his great disciple Hui Silence in the Miyin Temple co-creation of one of the five schools of Zen Weiyang Sect, and set up a large area of tea gardens, planting tea to solve the Zen for the use of monks in the temple, but also often to the taste of the givers.

密印寺周边山灵水秀，土壤肥沃，种植的茶树茂盛，茶叶肥厚，香味浓郁，成为上等好茶，也是上贡朝廷的珍品。 Miyin Temple around the mountains and water, fertile soil, planted tea trees lush, tea leaves fat, rich flavor, become a good tea, but also the tribute to the court of the treasures.

沩山禅茶多雨前采摘，香嫩清醇，不亚于武夷、龙井。 Weishan Zen tea is mostly picked before the rain, with tender and clear fragrance, no less than Wuyi and Longjing.

沩山毛尖多采摘一芽一叶或一芽二叶，经杀青、闷黄、轻揉、烘焙、熏烟等工艺精制而成，常密封于瓷罐，以保存香气。 Weishan Maojian mostly picks one bud and one leaf or one bud and two leaves, refined by killing, smothering, light kneading, baking, smoking and other crafts, often sealed in porcelain jars to preserve the aroma.

沩山毛尖外形微卷成块状，色泽黄亮油润，白毫显露，茶水汤色橙黄透亮，松烟香气芬芳，滋味醇甜爽口，非常诱人。 Weishan Mao Jian shape slightly rolled into a block, yellow color and glossy oily, white hair exposed, tea soup color orange and yellow translucent, fragrant aroma of pine smoke, taste mellow sweet and refreshing, very attractive.

北宋后，密印寺四度被毁，现在的密印寺占地9000平方米，为禅家道场；大佛殿为1933年重建，高27米，四壁嵌满鎏佛像，计12218尊，佛像神态肃穆，殿内金光灿烂，令人目眩。 After the Northern Song Dynasty, the Miyin Temple was destroyed four times, the current Miyin Temple covers an area of 9,000 square meters, for the Zen Buddhist Temple; Buddha Hall was rebuilt in 1933, 27 meters high, embedded in the four walls of the gilt Buddha statues, counting 12,218 statues, statues of solemnity, the Hall of golden light, dazzling.

寺内有密印十景，是著名的风景胜地。 The temple is famous for its ten views of Mihin.

第一次见识沩山禅茶，是到密印寺访古寻踪，看到沩山奇石怪峰，小溪汩汩，溪水清澈，茶树葱绿，心想真是一个产茶、养茶、喝茶的好地方。 The first time to see Weishan Zen tea, is to visit the Miyin Temple, see Weishan strange peaks, creeks, streams, clear water, tea tree green, I think it is really a tea, tea, tea, tea, a good place to drink.

我一阵瞎走之后，转悠到密印寺内，忽然闻到清幽之香飘然而过，再追寻已没有踪迹。 After I walked blindly for a while, wandering to the Temple of the Secret Mark, suddenly smelled the fragrance of the fragrance floated past, and then pursued has no trace.

我是馋食之人，对万物的香味非常敏感，初步辨别是焙炒之香，非常幽香、深远，可以一次吸入肺内，深入脾胃。 I am a glutton, very sensitive to the scent of everything, the initial identification is the aroma of roasting, very ethereal, far-reaching, can be inhaled at once into the lungs, deep into the spleen and stomach.

我顺风张望，寺院空旷，没有焙炒之物，于是我深深回味，断定是炒茶。 I looked into the wind, the temple is empty, there is no roasted things, so I deeply recalled, concluded that it is fried tea.

等一下，又传来一股，香味相同，飘散却慢些。 Wait a moment, and there's another one, with the same scent, but slower to dissipate.

我迅速向寺院靠拢，果然听到里面有人轻声话语，轻轻叩门，一位僧人开门，好奇地望着我。 I quickly leaned toward the monastery, and sure enough, I heard soft words being spoken inside, a gentle knock on the door, and a monk opening it and looking at me curiously.

我走进客房，只见茶几上放着两杯清茶，汤色嫩黄，热气缥缈，却没有香味散发。 I walked into the guest room, only to see two cups of clear tea sitting on the coffee table, the soup a tender yellow color, the heat misty, but no scent emanating.

寺主见我这般雅趣，换了坐姿，盘腿坐于稻草垫上。 Seeing me in this elegant manner, the temple master changed his sitting position and sat cross-legged on a straw mat.

撤换茶杯，以紫砂壶品评。 Remove the teacups and taste with a purple clay pot.

寺主起身，亲自为我沏茶，用勺子在瓷罐中打起一勺，轻轻抛入杯中，清脆有声，把刚烧开的泉水注入紫砂壶中，茶叶随着开水在壶中翻腾起伏，泛起细细泡沫，连成一片。 The master of the temple got up and personally made tea for me, using a spoon to beat up a spoonful in a porcelain pot, gently tossing it into a cup with a clear, crisp sound, pouring freshly boiled spring water into an alabaster pot, the tea leaves tumbling and undulating with the boiling water in the pot, raising a fine foam that was connected to a sheet.

茶叶随着壶水平静，慢慢下沉，直到最后一片叶子沉下。 The tea leaves slowly sink as the pot calms until the last leaf sinks.

寺主端来一碗泉水，我吸了满满一口，清漱口腔。 The temple owner brought a bowl of spring water and I took a full swig to clear my mouth.

紫砂壶中汤色浑黄，我轻轻喝了一口，只有开水的味道。 The soup was a muddy yellow color in the purple clay pot, and when I took a gentle sip, it only tasted like boiling water.

寺主开了佛乐，课经与木鱼之声飘荡，点上檀香，我漂浮的心稍微沉静，没有了烦忧，没有了思虑，全身心享受茶味。 The master of the temple turned on the Buddhist music, the lessons of the sutra and the sound of wooden fish floated, lighted sandalwood incense, my floating heart a little calm, no more worries, no more thoughts, all my heart and soul to enjoy the flavor of the tea.

汤色慢慢变得透明，喝上一口，香味游荡在唇舌尖，轻轻滑过喉咙，稍有涩味，却很悠长，让人回味。 The soup color slowly becomes transparent, take a sip, the aroma wanders in the tip of the lips and tongue, gently sliding across the throat, slightly astringent, but very long, let a person recall.

当课完一经，杯中茶叶全部张开，再喝茶，香味大开，涩味全无，香味绵长，可谓清新提气，神爽精奋。 When the lesson finished a scripture, the cup of tea leaves all open, and then drink tea, the aroma is wide open, astringent taste, long flavor, can be described as fresh and refreshing, God refreshing essence of excitement.

我细想才知道，沩山禅茶是在禅中等待茶的味道，感悟禅理，这才是沩山禅茶的真谛。 I thought about it carefully and realized that Weishan Zen Tea is waiting for the flavor of tea in Zen, and sensing the Zen theory.

回到长沙，清闲之时，常泡一壶沩山禅茶，听听佛乐，读读佛经，享受沩山禅茶的滋味，在茶味中参悟人生的哲理。 Back in Changsha, when you are free, you often brew a pot of Weishan Zen tea, listen to Buddhist music, read Buddhist scriptures, enjoy the taste of Weishan Zen tea, and realize the philosophy of life in the taste of tea.

在外地奔走，日子过得不像在办公室和家里那样安稳，喝茶也不例外，只能随遇而安。 Running around in the field, the days are not as peaceful as in the office and at home, and drinking tea is no exception to the rule of taking things as they come.

我行走的时间一长，渐渐养成所有茶都能喝的能耐，有时还故意找当地的茶品味一番，体验一点新鲜感。 As I walked for a long time, I gradually developed the ability to drink all teas, and sometimes I deliberately find local tea to savor and experience a little freshness.

初到江华，我见到过一种怪异的茶叶，叶片巴掌大，深黄色，非常厚实，几十片叶子捆扎在一起，放在市场上交易。 When I first arrived in Jianghua, I saw a strange kind of tea, with palm-sized, deep yellow leaves, very thick, dozens of leaves bundled together and traded in the market.

我一打听，才知道是瑶族独有的冬梨子茶叶，属于大茶叶的一种。 When I inquired about it, I realized that it was the unique winter pear seed tea leaves of the Yao ethnic group, which belongs to a kind of large tea leaves.

读了江华的一些史料才知道，江华有三种茶——苦茶、藤茶、冬梨子茶，都有着数百年的历史，让我为之一震。 I was shocked to learn from reading some of the history of Jianghua that there are three kinds of tea in Jianghua - bitter tea, rattan tea, and winter pear seed tea, all of which have a history of hundreds of years.

江华的朋友告诉我，冬梨子茶树属于阔叶小乔木，叶片大，质地硬。 Jianghua's friend told me that the winter pear tea tree belongs to the broad-leaved small trees with large leaves and hard texture.

冬梨子茶一片叶子可以泡三碗茶，颜色赤红，清香甘醇，有防暑降压的作用，深受深山中的瑶族人喜爱。 Winter pear seed tea a leaf can be brewed three bowls of tea, reddish color, fragrant and sweet, have the role of summer heat prevention and lowering the pressure, by the deep mountains of the Yao people love.

江华是湖南省唯一的瑶族自治县，也是神州瑶都，居住的瑶族同胞最多。 Jianghua is the only Yao Autonomous County in Hunan Province and the Yao Capital of God's Country, with the largest number of Yao compatriots living there.

瑶族是一个居住在深山老林的民族，特别是高山瑶，以打猎为生，过着清贫的生活。 The Yao are an ethnic group living in deep mountains and forests, especially the high mountain Yao, who live in poverty by hunting.

瑶族的祖先盘王，发现了冬梨子茶，把它作为治病的良药，从此代代相传，散居深山的瑶胞家家户户备有冬梨子茶。 Yao's ancestor Pan Wang, discovered the winter pear seed tea, it as a cure for disease, from generation to generation, the Yao people living in the mountains of every household with winter pear seed tea.

通过瑶族人们数百年对冬梨子茶的探索、开发，冬梨子茶已成为瑶族人们生活的必需品。 Through hundreds of years of exploration and development of winter pear seed tea by Yao people, winter pear seed tea has become a necessity in the life of Yao people.

瑶族同胞在祭祀瑶族始祖盘王时，要供奉冬梨子茶；或把冬梨子茶当作一种饮料，用于解渴；或把冬梨子茶作为一种消毒类药品，用于治疗红白痢疾、腹胀腹泻、食积不化等疾病；或开发冬梨子茶的防馊、防腐作用，运用在制作糍粑、腌菜、腐乳中，作天然防腐剂。 Yao compatriots in the worship of Yao ancestor Pan Wang, to offer winter pear tea; or winter pear tea as a drink, used to quench thirst; or winter pear tea as a disinfectant drugs, used to treat red and white dysentery, bloating and diarrhea, food accumulation and other diseases; or the development of winter pear tea rancidity prevention, antiseptic effect, used in the production of patties, pickles, fermented bean curd, as a natural antiseptic.

冬梨子茶树属于乔木中的杂木，生长在瑶山深处，树上长满了刺，叶子为椭圆形。 The Winter Pearse Tea Tree is a mixed tree among trees, growing deep in the Yao Mountains, with spiny trees and oval leaves.

每年秋季，冬梨叶从树上纷纷飘落，瑶胞携蓝提袋攀山越岭捡拾冬梨叶，捡回来后洗净沥水，用竹席翻晒几天，将冬梨叶捆扎好，吊在房檐下。 Every year in the fall, winter pear leaves from the trees have fallen, Yao compatriots with blue bags climbed over the mountains to pick up winter pear leaves, pick back after washing and draining, with bamboo mats over a few days of sunshine, will be winter pear leaves bundled, hanging under the eaves of the house.

有客人来，主人取三四片冬梨叶放于壶中，用开水冲泡，两三分钟后，一壶香气诱人的冬梨茶便泡好，色泽澄黄、香味独特，不生霉、不变味。 Guests come, the master take three or four pieces of winter pear leaves in the pot, with boiling water, two or three minutes later, a pot of attractive aroma of winter pear tea will be brewed, color and lustre yellow, unique aroma, not moldy, do not change taste.

我在江华瑶族山寨生活过一段时间，遇到蜂毒蛇虫的袭击，瑶胞用冬梨子茶水给我治疗，身体很快就恢复了，才知道冬梨子茶对瑶族人的重要性。 I lived in Jianghua Yao village for a period of time, encountered bee venom snake insect attack, Yao people with winter pear seed tea water to treat me, the body quickly recovered, only to realize the importance of winter pear seed tea to the Yao people.

据现代医学分析，冬梨子茶有抗菌消炎、止咳化痰、清咽润喉、增强免疫等作用，是一种比较实用的中草药。 According to modern medical analysis, winter pear seed tea has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, cough and phlegm, clearing and moistening the throat, and enhancing immunity.

我在江华县城住了几天，在饭馆吃饭前，江华人都要给客人上一杯冰冻冬梨子茶，作为饭前的茶饮。 I stayed in Jianghua County for a few days, and before eating in a restaurant, Jianghua people would serve a cup of frozen winter pear seed tea to their guests as a pre-dinner tea drink.

店家把泡好的冬梨子茶用大玻璃瓶装起来，放在冰箱里冻着，吃饭的时候给每位客人倒一杯。 The shopkeeper puts the brewed winter pear seed tea in large glass bottles, freezes it in the refrigerator, and pours a cup for each guest during the meal.

赤红的茶水缓缓流入透明的杯内，升起一层水雾，纯正的香味飘散开来，有点像麦香。 The ruddy tea slowly flowed into the transparent cup, rising a layer of water mist, and the pure fragrance wafted out, a bit like the smell of wheat.

轻轻喝上一口，既冰凉又清心，还可以慢慢回味其中的味道。 A gentle sip is both cold and refreshing, and you can slowly savor the flavors.

当我从炎热的太阳底下或者吵闹的街市走进饭馆，喝上一杯冬梨子茶，太阳的毒烈和心中的烦躁马上消失，开始进入茶的世界，吃饭时也食欲增大。 When I walk into a restaurant from the hot sun or a noisy market and drink a cup of winter pear seed tea, the poison of the sun and the irritation in my heart immediately disappears, and I begin to enter the world of tea, and my appetite increases when I eat.

在古梅山地带，很多名物让人无法理解，并且只在小范围内流行，然而，随着城市文明的进步，那些古老的梅山习俗和名物也开始慢慢消失了。 In the ancient Meishan area, many famous things were incomprehensible and only popular in a small area, however, as the city civilization progresses, those old Meishan customs and famous things are slowly starting to disappear.

梅山属于高山地带，海拔在800米左右，崇山峻岭之间，形成沟壑或山湾，有一片片小田，溪水汩汩地从旁边流过，一级一级梯田排列在山湾里，非常壮观。 Meishan belongs to the alpine zone, with an altitude of about 800 meters. Between the lofty mountains, gullies or mountain bays are formed, and there is a small field with a stream gurgling from the side, and one level of terraces are arranged in the mountain bays, which is very spectacular.

这些水田并非一年四季都水资源充足，常常靠天水来灌溉。 These paddy fields are not well-watered all year round and are often irrigated by water from the sky.

春季雷响，就要保持天水不被浪费，把田犁翻平整，积水过夏。 When the thunder strikes in the spring, it's important to keep the sky water from being wasted by plowing and leveling the fields to hold water through the summer.

很多人家借此养鱼、种稻，农民把这些水田叫塘田结合。 Many people use this to raise fish and rice, and farmers call these paddies pond-field combinations.

稻谷在稻子黄时需要干水，稻谷才能变金黄。 Rice needs dry water when the rice is yellow for the rice to turn golden.

稻谷中有种特殊的水稻——新化糯谷，可以不用干水，从插秧到收割都可以关水。 A special kind of rice, Xinhua glutinous rice, can be used without dry water, and water can be turned off from transplanting to harvesting.

稻谷黄时，稻香飘逸，幽远迷人，这种稻谷是酿新化糯米酒（新化水酒）的好原料。 When the rice grain is yellow, the fragrance of rice floats and is far away and charming, and this kind of rice grain is a good raw material for brewing Xinhua Glutinous Rice Wine (Xinhua Shui Wine).

糯谷稻田养的鱼叫稻香鱼，吃时有着稻子的香味。 Fish raised in the glutinous rice fields are called inaka fish and have the flavor of rice when eaten.

梅山有种古老的风俗——表兄妹成亲，分姑表亲、扁担亲、续房亲等，结婚时不需大宴宾客，只需邀请姑舅、叔伯几房近亲到场，席间喝碗“换茶”即可。 Meishan has an ancient custom - cousins into marriage, divided into aunts and cousins, flat pro, renewed pro, etc., do not need to feast on guests at the time of marriage, just invite aunts and uncles, uncles and uncles of several houses close relatives to the scene, the seat to drink a bowl of "change tea" can be.

梅山人家庭贫困，居住偏僻，娶不起亲，常娘舅间再结亲来传宗接代。 Meishan people's families are poor and live in remote areas, so they can't afford to marry, and often marry again between their maternal uncles to pass on the family name.

这些家庭自认为低人一等，怕人看不起，不敢庆祝结婚喜事，以喝换茶来表示喜庆。 Considering themselves inferior and afraid of being looked down upon, these families do not dare to celebrate the joyous occasion of marriage and show their joy by drinking exchange tea.

换茶是糯米炒制出来的米泡，洁白可爱，少部分被染成杂色。 Changcha is a rice bubble made from glutinous rice fried in a lovely white color, with a few dyed in mixed colors.

米泡抓在手里脆响脆响，干燥异常。 The rice bubbles are crunchy and dry in your hand.

喜庆的日子，给客人泡茶时，多使用饭碗，碗里装上多半碗米泡，加少许白砂糖，家境优越的放点精细茶叶——清明前的一芽两叶。 Celebration days, to the guests to make tea, more use of rice bowls, bowls filled with more than half a bowl of rice bubbles, add a little sugar, the family of superior put some fine tea leaves - a bud before the Qingming two leaves.

一碗换茶一般放四五芽即可，开水转了茶味就行，加多了茶叶反而冲了味。 A bowl of tea generally put four or five buds can be, open water turned the tea flavor on the line, add more tea leaves instead of rushing the flavor.

刚烧的开水冲入碗里，米泡慢慢地上升，又慢慢地平下去。 Freshly boiled boiling water rushes into the bowl and the rice bubbles slowly rise and flatten out.

开水冲泡时，米泡遇开水变软，米泡湿后潜于碗底，表面光滑明亮。 When brewed in boiling water, the rice foam softens in the presence of boiling water, and the rice foam dives to the bottom of the bowl when wet, with a smooth and bright surface.

用勺子搅拌以后，稍微泡上两三分钟就可以喝了。 After stirring with a spoon, steep it slightly for two or three minutes and drink it.

换茶米泡的制作工艺比较复杂，是梅山妇女做一个好妻子的标尺。 The complicated process of making the change of tea and rice infusion is a yardstick for the women of Meishan to be a good wife.

我母亲这一代妇女，做换茶米泡是她们的必修功课。 For women of my mother's generation, making exchange tea and rice bubbles was a must for them.

每年秋天，收割糯谷的时候，正是秋高气爽的时节，天气晴朗，阳光充足，也正是做换茶米泡的最佳时期。 Every fall, when the glutinous grain is harvested, it is the time of high autumn weather, clear and sunny, which is also the best time to make the change of tea rice infusion.

做换茶米泡，首先选择优质糯谷，粒大个长、颗颗饱满，谷壳颜色金黄发亮。 To make the tea for the rice bubble, the first choice of high-quality glutinous rice, large, long, full of grain, the color of the hull of the golden shiny.

用石臼去掉谷壳，筛出糯米，再次精加工，去掉糯米的谷芽，糯米看上去非常圆润，颜色奶白，颗粒完整。 The husk is removed with a stone mortar, and the glutinous rice is sieved and refined again to remove the buds of the glutinous rice, which looks very round, milky white in color, and complete in grain.

把糯米淘洗干净，冷水浸泡一夜，糯米发胀，闪着光亮。 Wash the glutinous rice and soak it in cold water overnight; it swells and shines.

第二天早上沥干水分，把糯米用木笼蒸熟，倒入蔑盘中，洒上凉水，糯米自动散开，叫发汗。 Drain the water the next morning, steam the glutinous rice in a wooden cage, pour it into a scorned dish, sprinkle it with cool water, and the glutinous rice automatically disperses, called sweating.

糯米散后，拨开冷却，放阴凉处慢慢阴干，糯米粒粒分明，小而坚硬，晶亮透明。 Glutinous rice scattered, set aside to cool, put in a cool place to slowly dry, glutinous rice grains are clear, small and hard, crystal clear.

在阴干过程中千万别用太阳暴晒，否则米粒会出现裂纹，炒出的换茶米泡尽是砂子。 In the shade drying process should not be exposed to the sun, otherwise the rice grains will be cracked, fried to change the tea rice bubble as much as the sand.

等米粒完全阴干后，用少许米粒染上红、蓝、紫多种颜色，掺杂在阴米中，米粒五颜六色，然后再做成炒米。 When the rice grains are completely shaded and dried, a small amount of rice grains are dyed with various colors of red, blue, and purple and mixed into the shaded rice, the grains are colorful, and then made into fried rice.

炒米多用砂炒，把经常用于炒干货的砂子烧热，加上植物油，砂粒闪着油光，冒出青烟，烟尽再下阴米。 Stir-fry rice with sand, often used to stir-fry dry goods sand hot, plus vegetable oil, sand grains glistening with oil, smoke, smoke and then under the yin rice.

炒米时烧火的柴非常讲究，一般使用干燥的杉树叶，最好是树上自然掉落于地上的细叶。 The firewood for the fire when stir-frying rice is very delicate, and dry cedar leaves are usually used, preferably fine leaves from trees that naturally fall to the ground.

每下一把阴米到锅中，就烧一把杉树叶，再也不要加火。 For every handful of yummy rice that is lowered into the pot, burn a handful of cedar leaves and never add to the fire again.

执炒勺的人不停翻转阴米，阴米很快鼓胀成米泡，用筛子筛掉炒砂，米泡洁白鲜艳，很有食欲诱惑。 The person in charge of the stir-frying spoon keeps turning the yin rice, and the yin rice soon swells up into rice bubbles, and when the stir-frying sand is sifted off with a sieve, the rice bubbles are white and bright, which is very tempting to the appetite.

换茶泡开水后，米粒非常柔软，有韧性，吃在嘴里非常顺滑，经过喉咙的感觉滑爽无比，加上糖水的甜腻，美味可口。 After changing the tea and soaking in boiling water, the rice grains are very soft and tough, very smooth in the mouth, passing through the throat with a smooth feeling, together with the sweetness of the sugar water, delicious and tasty.

做换茶时，糯米需要发汗，梅山人读“发换”，所以名叫换茶。 When making changcha, the glutinous rice needs to sweat, and the Meishan people pronounce it "fa-cha", hence the name changcha.

因茶的主要原料是炒米，也有人叫米茶。 Because the main ingredient of the tea is fried rice, some people also call it rice tea.

又因换茶一般用在结婚大宴宾客或春节时招待嘉宾等，表示喜庆、吉利，所以又叫欢茶。 And because the change of tea is generally used in the wedding feast or the Spring Festival to entertain guests, etc., to express the joy and auspiciousness, so it is also known as Huancha.

我喜欢吃换茶的感觉，大家围着桌子，每人捧一碗换茶，用勺子一勺一勺地打捞米泡送进嘴里，看到碗里一层又一层的米泡，很想一次多吃几粒，把它们全吃完，但又总感觉吃不完，再闲聊些家常，很有韵味。 I like the feeling of eating tea, everyone around the table, each holding a bowl of tea, with a spoon a spoon to salvage the rice bubbles into the mouth, see the bowl layer after layer of rice bubbles, would like to eat a few more grains at a time, eat all of them, but always feel that you can't eat it all, and then gossip about some of the family, it's very flavorful.

我从小就熟悉青砖茶，这是我们新化与安化的一大特产，并且是安化茯砖茶的前身。 I've been familiar with green brick tea since I was a child, which is one of our specialties in Xinhua and Anhua, and is the predecessor of Anhua Poria tea.

据1995年版的《新化县志》记载，明代末年在新化圳上镇龙珠山就出现了青砖茶。 According to the 1995 edition of the Xinhua County Records, in the late Ming Dynasty in the town of Xinhua Zhenshang Longzhushan appeared green brick tea.

因为家世渊源，我爷爷的产业依托于山村七里冲几十个山头土地和林地，他主要的劳作是茶叶的种植与采摘，除了极少的绿茶，主要是碎红茶，夏季还要制作青砖茶。 Because of his family history, my grandfather's industry relied on dozens of hills and woodlands in the mountain village of Chirichong, and his main labor was tea planting and picking, except for a very small amount of green tea, mainly crushed black tea, and in the summer, he also had to make green brick tea.

在民国后期，他的这些山头大部分已经落到了他人之手。 In the late Republican period, most of these hills of his had fallen into the hands of others.

后来，父亲六兄弟一个接一个地分家，一个大家庭被分为六七个部分，那点家产也所剩无几。 Later, one by one, my father's six brothers split up the family, and a large family was divided into six or seven parts, with very little of the family fortune left.

我出生之后，已经实行家庭联产承包责任制，水田、耕地、林地等都已经分散到户。 After I was born, the household contract responsibility system was already in place, and paddy fields, arable land, and forest land had been decentralized to households.

我家的土地有大部分是种了茶树的。 Most of my family's land is planted with tea trees.

每年春季，父母会带着我们一起去地里采春茶，主要是用来做功夫红茶。 Every spring, my parents would take us with them to the fields to pick spring tea, mainly for making Kung Fu black tea.

我们这里的红茶制作技术最早是由广东商人传入湖南的地方，与安化同期，这种功夫红茶即后来史志记载的红碎茶。 Our black tea making technology here was first introduced to the place in Hunan by Guangdong merchants, at the same time with Anhua, and this Kung Fu black tea is later recorded in the historical records as Red Broken Tea.

他们把这种红茶运往广东贩卖，叫湖南功夫红茶，简称湖南红茶，与湖北宜昌红茶合称“湖红”。 They transported this black tea to Guangdong to sell, called Hunan Kung Fu black tea, referred to as Hunan black tea, and Hubei Yichang black tea, known as "Hunan red".

一年采三次春茶，即一芽、一芽一叶、一芽两叶的一绿两红的茶树，再经过两三个月的生长，嫩芽长到两三寸长，茶梗非常粗壮，已经不适宜做碎红茶了。 Spring tea is harvested three times a year, i.e., one bud, one bud and one leaf, one bud and two leaves of one green and two red tea trees, and then after two or three months of growth, the young shoots grow to two or three inches long, and the tea stalks are very thick and sturdy, which is no longer suitable for making broken black tea.

因为茶芽的颜色已经由嫩绿色转变为青绿色或者红绿色，有点接近于漆黑色，家乡话中“漆”发“西”的音，所以叫西茶。 Because the color of the tea buds has changed from young green to lime green or reddish green, a little close to the black color of the lacquer, the hometown of the "lacquer" in the "West" sound, so it is called West Tea.

这种茶芽采摘起来很方便，我们主要用劄子采摘。 These tea buds are easy to pick, and we mainly use a letter writer to pick them.

劄子用绳子套在右手的食指上，拇指和食指同时张开，两个指头触摸到茶叶就扣紧捏成一把，套劄子的食指一使劲，就劄断了脆嫩的茶芽。 Writer with a string on the index finger of the right hand, the thumb and index finger at the same time open, two fingers touch the tea leaves will be buckled and pinched into a handful, set the letter of the forefinger of a force, write off the brittle tea buds.

这样采摘茶叶的速度很快，茶芽也很压秤，一个成年熟手可以摘一百多斤鲜叶。 This picking of tea leaves is very fast, the tea buds are also very weighing, an adult skilled hand can pick more than a hundred pounds of fresh leaves.

我们小孩子也喜欢跟父母去地里采摘西茶。 We kids also like to go to the field with our parents to pick western tea.

采到的鲜叶自己不加工，直接卖给收购茶叶的小商贩。 The picked fresh leaves are not processed by themselves and are sold directly to small traders who buy tea leaves.

他们运到揉茶厂，把茶叶杀青，揉出茶碱水，再晾晒干茶叶，成为粗红茶，直接压制成茶砖，为青砖茶。 They are transported to the tea kneading factory, where the tea leaves are killed, kneaded out of the tea alkaline water, and then dried and dried the tea leaves to become crude black tea, which is directly pressed into tea bricks for green brick tea.

晒干的茶叶储存一段时间，经高温蒸热，再压在固定的模型里，制作成茶砖，这就是黑砖茶。 The sun-dried tea leaves are stored for a period of time, steamed and heated at high temperatures, and then pressed in a fixed model to make tea bricks, which is black brick tea.

青砖茶可以由茶山直接生产，黑砖茶则需要茶叶加工厂生产。 Green brick tea can be produced directly from the tea plant, while black brick tea needs to be produced by a tea processing plant.

每年到了八月，我们小孩子就盼望收西茶的时间快些到来。 Every year in August, we children looked forward to the time when the harvest of western tea would come soon.

每天下午两三点，我们每个人背一个蛇皮袋，带一个劄子，来到自家的地里，开始采摘茶叶。 Every afternoon at two or three o'clock, each of us carried a snakeskin bag and a letterer to our own fields and started picking tea leaves.

到晚上六七点钟，就摘满了一蛇皮袋的鲜茶叶。 By six or seven o'clock in the evening, a snakeskin bag full of fresh tea leaves was picked.

我们高高兴兴地背起茶叶袋，赶到村供销社或者托山小学或者大桥头等地方，那里有收购茶叶的小商贩。 We happily picked up our tea bags and rushed to places such as the village supply house or Toshan Elementary School or the head of the bridge, where there were vendors who bought tea.

他们验一下我们采摘的茶叶，判断茶叶的质量，就过秤称重量，称完重量把蛇皮袋拖到茶叶储存处，倒出茶叶，如果没有发现质量问题，就到结账处去按斤领钱。 They check the tea leaves we picked, judge the quality of tea, weigh the scales, weighing the weight of the snake skin bag dragged to the tea storage, pouring out the tea, if there is no quality problems found, go to the checkout to get money by the catty.

西茶鲜叶的价格一般是一毛至三毛钱一斤，我们一个下午采得二三十斤，可以挣两三块钱到五六块钱不等。 The price of fresh leaves of western tea is generally 10 cents to 30 cents a catty, we pick twenty to thirty pounds in an afternoon, can earn two or three dollars to five or six dollars ranging.

这些钱不必交给父母，可以作为自己的零花钱，用来买零食、文具和书籍。 The money does not have to be given to your parents and can be used as your own pocket money to buy snacks, stationery and books.

年龄再大一些，在周末或者假期，我们要随父母到洞市去砍管竹，就是用它的叶子来包粽子的粽叶竹，是当地人用来编织扁篮的一种小竹子，多为筷子粗细。 When we were older, on weekends or vacations, we would go with our parents to Dongshi to cut tubular bamboo, which is the bamboo whose leaves are used to wrap zongzi (rice dumplings), a kind of small bamboo used by the locals to weave flat baskets, mostly chopstick-thin.

父亲在四季农闲的日子或者早晚时刻，利用空闲时间编织扁篮，再担到集市上去卖掉，可以挣些钱补贴家用。 My father used his free time to weave flat baskets during the four seasons on idle days or in the morning and evening, and then took them to the market to sell them, so that he could earn some money to subsidize his family.

大学时，我有位同学是岳阳临湘人，他对岳阳的特产和茶叶比较熟悉，跟我说起过他老家临湘的茶叶非常多，并且很有名，为青砖茶。 When I was in college, one of my classmates was from Linxiang, Yueyang, and he was more familiar with Yueyang's specialties and teas, and told me about his hometown, Linxiang, which has a lot of teas and is very famous for its green brick teas.

但是，我那时候不知道临湘的青砖茶与羊角峒的青砖茶是同一个大茶山，属于同一个茶源。 However, I didn't know at that time that Linxiang's green brick tea and Yangjiaodong's green brick tea are the same big tea mountain and belong to the same tea source.

2003年，我到出版社就职，长期在湖北出差。 In 2003, I took a job at a publishing house and traveled for long periods of time in Hubei.

第一次去湖北黄冈出差，车进入赤壁市，项目负责人就告诉我这是武赤壁，《三国演义》里的那个赤壁。 The first time I went to Huanggang, Hubei on business, the car entered Chibi City, the project manager told me that this is Wu Chibi, the one in the Romance of the Three Kingdoms.

又说，我们今天还要去苏轼的那个文赤壁黄冈。 And again, we have to go to that Wen Chibi Huanggang in Su Shi today.

《三国演义》和《赤壁赋》都是我很喜欢的文学作品，我曾经希望能够走遍书里提到的那些名山大川。 The Romance of the Three Kingdoms and Red Cliff Fugue are my favorite works of literature, and I used to wish that I could visit all the famous mountains and rivers mentioned in the books.

赤壁市地处幕埠山脉和江汉平原接壤的丘陵地带，雨水充足，日照时间长，土地肥沃，具有得天独厚的茶叶生长环境。 Chibi City is located in the Mumbu mountain range and the Jianghan Plain bordering the hilly area, rainfall, long sunshine, fertile land, with a unique environment for tea growth.

这里采茶历史长达两千多年，远在盛唐时期，赤壁就被朝廷辟为园户，宋元之时定为傕茶之地。 The history of tea picking here is as long as two thousand years, as far back as the Sheng Tang Dynasty, Chibi was set up by the court as a garden, Song and Yuan time as Jue tea place.

2004年4月30日，我在黄冈出差。 On April 30, 2004, I was on a business trip to Huanggang.

因要赶回长沙去过五一，连夜坐汽车往回赶。 I had to rush back to Changsha for May Day, so I took a bus all night to go back.

等车走上高速公路已经快四点钟了，我已经疲惫极了，很快就睡着了。 By the time the car got on the highway it was almost four o'clock and I was so exhausted that I fell asleep quickly.

等我醒来，发现车坏了，而且停在了一个不知名的地方。 When I woke up, I realized the car had broken down and was parked in the middle of nowhere.

有一半乘客已经下车去了，司机打了救援电话，也没有办法解决。 Half of the passengers had already gotten off the bus and gone, and the driver called for help and couldn't do anything about it.

后来，司机带着工具修了半个多小时，还是没有修好，于是不得不在最近的出口下高速，找地方修理客车。 Later, the driver brought his tools for more than half an hour to repair the bus, but it still wasn't fixed, so he had to get off the highway at the nearest exit to find a place to repair the bus.

我们来到专业的修理店，没花多少时间就把车修好了，可那时已经是晚上七八点钟了。 We went to a professional repair store and it didn't take us long to get the car fixed, but by then it was already 7 or 8 o'clock at night.

按他们平时的情况，我们的车应该已经到了长沙汽车站。 As they usually do, our car should have arrived at the Changsha bus station.

乘客们个个饥肠辘辘，要求司机开车到附近找个饭店就餐，吃了饭再赶路。 Passengers were hungry and asked the driver to drive to a nearby restaurant to eat, and then rush to the road.

司机同意了，开车带我们找到一家饭店。 The driver agreed and drove us to a restaurant.

我们每人吃了一份盒饭，却有个人来店里推销茶叶，他推销的是砖茶。 We each had a boxed lunch, but a man came to the store selling tea, and he was selling brick tea.

他说是当地的特产，叫青砖茶，价格不高，也就十块钱一块，一块大概一斤左右。 He said it is a local specialty, called green brick tea, the price is not high, it is only ten dollars a piece, a piece of about a catty or so.

我当时候正在收藏沱茶和砖茶，也就买了一块。 I was collecting tuocha and brick tea at the time and bought a piece.

从此我开始关注羊楼峒的砖茶，才知道羊楼峒产茶的历史很悠久，如果从帽盒茶算起，它源于唐，盛于明清，是全世界公认的青砖茶主产区。 From then on I began to pay attention to the brick tea of Yangloudong, only to know that the history of Yangloudong tea production is very long, if you count from the hat box tea, it originated in the Tang Dynasty, flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, is recognized as the world's main production area of green brick tea.

明清两朝，羊楼峒成为当地名镇，俗称小汉口，成为万里茶路的起点。 During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Yangloudong became a famous local town, commonly known as Little Hankou, and became the starting point of the Ten Thousand Mile Tea Road.

清朝乾隆年间，“三玉川”和“巨盛川”两茶庄在其生产的砖茶特别压制了代表羊楼峒三口泉水的“川”字，在西北牧民中信誉甚著。 During the Qianlong period of the Qing dynasty, "three yuk chuan" and "jusheng chuan" two tea farms in its production of brick tea especially embossed on behalf of the yangloudong three springs "chuan", in the northwestern herdsmen in the credibility of a very famous! The two tea estates are highly reputable among the herders in the Northwest China.

2005年，我在长沙组织了一次全国作者的交流大会，参加这次活动的是当时比较活跃的报刊作者，有五六十人，来自全国各地十多个省市。 In 2005, I organized a national authors' exchange conference in Changsha, which was attended by fifty to sixty of the then more active newspaper authors from more than ten provinces and cities across the country.

我当时写了一些品茶的散文，有位湖北的作者特意给我带了一块羊楼峒的青砖茶当礼物，虽然是块新茶，它的品质却很好。 I wrote some tea tasting essays at that time, and an author from Hubei specially brought me a piece of green brick tea from Yangloudong as a gift, although it was a piece of new tea, its quality was very good.

我把它与2003年在羊楼峒附近买的青砖茶放在一起，当作珍藏。 I keep it as a collector's item along with the green brick tea I bought near Yangloudong in 2003.

一直到2013年春，我有幸到临湘市的聂市镇采风，寻找那条茶马古道，正好聂市镇东面与赤壁市的羊楼司镇接壤。 Until the spring of 2013, I had the honor of picking up Nie Shi Town in Linxiang City in search of that ancient tea-horse road, which happens to be bordered on the east by Yanglousi Town in Chibi City.

我从聂市镇进入羊楼司镇，才知道，临湘的茶山与羊楼司的茶山是连在一起的，其实就是一个产茶区，只是羊楼峒的茶山占了绝大部分，临湘市占的也就是很少的一部分了。 I entered the town of Yanglousi from the town of Nie, only to realize that the tea mountains of Linxiang and Yanglousi are connected together, in fact, is a tea-producing area, only Yangloudong's tea mountains accounted for the vast majority of the Linxiang city accounted for a very small part of it.

它们在产量上有很大的差异，但它们的工艺和制作都是一脉相承的，来自一种传统。 They vary greatly in production, but their craftsmanship and production are all in the same vein and come from a tradition.

它们作为运往陕甘销售的茶砖，是山西人在安化、新化砖茶之后，开辟的新茶源。 They are used as tea bricks shipped to Shaanxi and Gansu for sale, and are a new source of tea opened up by Shanxi people after Anhua and Xinhua brick tea.

羊楼峒古代属于蒲圻八大古镇之一。 Yangloudong belonged to one of the eight ancient towns of Puqi in ancient times.

清代乾隆元年（1736年），雷中万开办羊楼峒茶庄，设在羊庙场街中段，厂房在观音泉下60米处，以羊楼峒的鲜茶叶为原料，引观音泉水制作，后更名洞庄茶号，所产砖茶“以莲花为案，以洞庄二字为识”。 In the first year of the Qing dynasty Qianlong (1736), Lei Zhongwan opened the Yangloudong Tea House, located in the middle of the Yangmiao field street, plant in the Guanyin spring at 60 meters below the Yangloudong fresh tea leaves as raw materials, cited Guanyin spring water production, and then renamed the hole village tea, the production of brick tea, "to the Lotus for the case to the hole village two words for the knowledge".

极盛时期，羊楼峒有两百多家茶庄，近四万人，五条主要街道，百余家商旅店铺。 In its heyday, Yangloudong had more than two hundred tea estates, nearly 40,000 people, five main streets, and more than a hundred merchant stores.

我这次到羊楼司，参观了羊楼司的几家砖茶厂。 I visited several brick tea factories in Yanglouji this time.

他们生产的砖茶成品棱角分明，外形美观，纹面图案清晰秀丽，色泽乌亮。 They produce finished brick tea with sharp edges, beautiful appearance, clear and beautiful pattern of grain surface, and bright color.

我又在赤壁市当地企业品尝了他们的青砖茶，那茶汤深红明亮、香气醇和、滋味醇厚。 I also tasted their green brick tea at a local business in Chibi City, which had a deep red and bright tea broth, mellow aroma, and rich flavor.

还有几家企业拿出一些不同年份的陈年青砖茶，随着陈放时间延长愈陈愈香，愈浓郁愈纯正。 There are also several enterprises to come up with a number of different years of aged green brick tea, as the aging time is prolonged the more fragrant, the more rich and pure.

我也品尝了存放已久的陈年青砖茶，有杏仁香气，汤色橙红明亮、晶莹剔透，滋味醇和，粗而不涩、老而不淡，大气回甘，余韵持久。 I also tasted the aged green brick tea that had been stored for a long time, with almond aroma, bright orange-red soup color, crystal clear, mellow flavor, coarse but not astringent, old but not bland, atmospheric sweetness, and long-lasting aftertaste.

细品茶汤，有不同层次的结构感。 When you sip the tea, there is a sense of structure at different levels.

小时候，我们采摘来的茶叶多换成钱，很少有自己喝的。 When I was a kid, we exchanged most of the tea leaves we picked for money, and rarely drank any for ourselves.

偶尔父亲会自己炒一点，加花椒来泡水喝。 Occasionally my father would fry a little for himself and add peppercorns to the water.

那种粗涩的味道，跟我今日品尝到的茶味当然不可同日而语。 That coarse, astringent flavor is certainly not comparable to the tea I'm tasting today.

但是当那浓滑的茶水流过口腔的时候，我还是感到了一阵阵的暖意。 But I still felt a rush of warmth as the thick, smooth tea flowed through my mouth.

2013年7月10日中午，我们从成都出发去神农架古清生茶园考察的团队顺利翻过重庆的巫山，进入湖北恩施州巴东县。 At noon on July 10, 2013, our team that set out from Chengdu to visit the Shennongjia Ancient Qingsheng Tea Plantation went smoothly over Wushan Mountain in Chongqing and into Badong County in Enshi Prefecture, Hubei Province.

茶叶是恩施州第一大特色产业，其规模面积、品牌形象在全省乃至全国都有名气。 Tea is the number one specialty industry in Enshi Prefecture, and its scale area and brand image are famous in the province and even in the country.

感慨之后，又有些后怕，背心直冒冷汗。 After the emotion, there was some fear, and a cold sweat broke out on his undershirt.

巴东县位于湖北省西南部，长江中上游两岸，长江三峡腹地巫峡与西陵峡之间，居恩施东北部，位于亚热带季风区，温暖多雨，湿热多雾，四季分明，是不可多得的生态茶园基地。 Badong County is located in southwestern Hubei Province, the upper reaches of the Yangtze River on both sides of the Yangtze River, the Yangtze River Three Gorges hinterland between the Wushu Gorge and Xiling Gorge, residing in northeastern Enshi, is located in the subtropical monsoon zone, warm and rainy, hot and humid fog, the four seasons are clear, it is an unparalleled eco-tea plantation base.

巴东县优质茶叶的主产区是金果坪、溪丘湾、沿渡河等地，一路向前，只见山前屋后是一垄垄茶树，青翠欲滴，让人忍不住想要去采摘。 The main production areas of high-quality tea in Badong County are Jinguoping, Xichuwan, and Yanduhe, etc. All the way forward, you can only see that in front of the mountain and behind the house is a ridge of tea trees, which are so green and lush that people can't help but want to pick them.

巴东的“真香茗”在唐代被列为贡品，成为荆楚名茶。 Batong's "True Fragrant Tea" was listed as a tribute in the Tang Dynasty and became a famous tea in Jingchu.

巴东县现有茶园四万二千亩，年产茶叶五百余吨，有神农翠峰、万仙碧峰、万仙毛峰、富硒炒表、九龙青巴东峰等品牌。 Badong County, the existing tea plantations 42,000 acres, with an annual output of more than 500 tons of tea, there are Shennong Cuifeng, Wanxian Bifeng, Wanxian Maofeng, selenium-enriched frying table, Jiulongqing Badong Peak and other brands.

巴东茶属于难得的富硒茶，含硒适中，而硒是人体必需的微量元素。 Badong tea is a rare selenium-rich tea with moderate selenium content, which is an essential trace element.

我们前往神农架，必须经过金果坪镇等地。 As we traveled to Shennongjia, we had to pass through the town of Jingopeng and other places.

开始进入我们视野的是漫山遍野的茶园，连房前屋后都栽满了茶树，我知道这里一定是巴东县的产茶区。 What began to enter our vision is the mountains of tea plantations, even in front of the house are planted with tea trees, I know this must be the tea production area of Badong County.

同行的王洪坤放慢车速，顺便观赏路边的茶树和茶园结构以及种植模式。 Peer Wang Hongkun slowed down the speed of the car, by the way to watch the roadside tea trees and tea plantation structure and planting patterns.

我发现这些茶园缺乏合理的管理，很多茶树都已经老化，没有补植茶苗。 I found that these tea gardens lacked reasonable management, and many of the tea trees had aged and were not replanted with tea seedlings.

我们继续往前走了两三公里，就见成片的茶园。 We continued on for two or three kilometers and saw patches of tea plantations.

这是新茶园，种植年限不长，不到十年时间，属于新开垦的仔茶园。 This is a new tea plantation, planted for a short period of time, less than ten years time, belonging to the newly reclaimed boy tea plantation.

我们继续走了一段，就有成片的老茶园，于是我们特意停车到茶园观察，发现茶园除草是采用割草的方式进行的，除得不是很干净，有的杂草长得和茶树一样高。 We continued to walk for a while, there are patches of old tea gardens, so we deliberately parked to the tea garden to observe, and found that the tea garden weeding is carried out by mowing, not very clean, and some weeds grow as high as the tea trees.

另外天气干旱对茶树的影响很大，茶叶晒得有点蔫了，茶树枝也有些干枯。 Also the dry weather has had a big impact on the tea trees, the tea leaves have wilted a bit in the sun and the tea tree branches have dried up a bit.

我们本想找人打听这是什么地方，但在这半山腰，路上很难看到人影。 We would have liked to find someone to ask what this place was, but it's hard to see people on the road halfway up this mountain.

我们只得继续前行，见到一块广告牌，我们才知道到了巴东县溪丘湾镇。 We just had to keep going and when we saw a billboard, we realized that we had arrived at the town of Xiqiuwan in Badong County.

附近是金果茶业的巴东县分公司，有两三栋厂房和一栋办公楼。 Nearby is the Badong County branch of Golden Fruit Tea, with two or three factory buildings and an office building.

我们想了解一下他们的茶叶生产过程和茶叶品质，到处寻人。 We wanted to find out more about their tea production process and the quality of their teas and looked around.

突然有一辆面包车开来，一直开到厂房的大门口。 Suddenly a van drove up, all the way to the front door of the plant.

面包车进去后没有马上关门，我们就走了进去。 The van didn't close right after we got in, so we walked in.

在左边的一栋厂房边的水泥坪上，有一个人正在摊晒刚揉好的鲜茶叶，散发出浓郁的茶碱味。 On the left, on a concrete pad by a factory building, a man was spreading freshly kneaded tea leaves, giving off a strong odor of theophylline.

他已经晒了三四百平方米的茶叶，那些先前摊晒的茶叶已经晒得半干，茶叶紧卷，茶梗干扁。 He has already tanned three or four hundred square meters of tea, those previously spread tea has been half-dry, tea leaves tightly rolled, tea stems dry and flat.

我仔细观察发现，茶叶比较老，大概是用来做黑茶的原料的。 On closer inspection, I realized that the tea leaves were older, probably used as ingredients for black tea.

我知道巴东县采摘的夏季老茶叶经过加工后，由商贩收购运到长沙，在长沙进行再加工和统一包装，内销至内蒙古、新疆等地，外销至俄罗斯等国。 I know that the old summer tea leaves picked in Badong County are processed and then purchased by traders and shipped to Changsha, where they are reprocessed and uniformly packaged for domestic sale to Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang and other places, as well as for export to Russia and other countries.

单金果坪乡年产黑茶就超过百吨。 The annual production of black tea in Jinguoping Township alone exceeds one hundred tons.

我们走进厂区，看见占了半个厂房面积的鲜叶，正在摊晾杀青，只有三四个工人在加工、生产。 We walked into the factory, saw accounted for half of the plant area of fresh leaves, is spreading drying kill green, only three or four workers in processing, production.

我们没有走过去，不想影响他们的工作，就去其他厂房区参观，却发现其他地方都关门了。 Instead of walking over and not wanting to disrupt their work, we went to visit the other plant areas, only to find the rest closed.

王洪坤在第三栋厂房门口找到了一个管理人员，向他了解巴东县和溪丘湾的茶叶种植政策等事情，得到了不少的信息。 Wang Hongkun found a manager at the entrance of the third factory building, and got a lot of information from him about Badong County and Xichuwan's tea planting policy and other things.

因为我们人多嘈杂，惊醒了展销区旁边的一间屋子里的服务员。 Because we were so crowded and noisy, we woke up the attendant in a room next to the display area.

她马上出来接待我们，泡了一壶红茶给我们喝，好在红茶味道颇为醇正，也算是不虚此行。 She immediately came out to receive us and brewed a pot of black tea for us to drink, and it was good to see that the black tea had quite a mellow flavor.

我与古清生的相识，颇有些周折在其中。 My acquaintance with Koo Ching Sang had some twists and turns in it.

2005年，古清生在岳麓书社出版了一套旅人饮食文化书。 In 2005, Gu Qingsheng published a set of traveler's food culture books in Yuelu Shusha.

我当时在湖南人民出版社工作，闲暇时从事图书评论和美食散文写作。 I was working at Hunan People's Publishing House, where I engaged in book reviews and food prose writing in my spare time.

策划旅人系列的周实先生，是诗人、作家，曾主编《书屋》。 Mr. Zhou Shi, who curated the Travelers series, is a poet and writer who edited The Book House.

他在湖南出版集团二楼办公，与我的工作单位相隔一条马路。 He works on the second floor of Hunan Publishing Group, which is across the street from my workplace.

我到周实处领取样书，写了两篇书评，发表在报刊与网络媒体上。 I picked up a sample copy of the book from Chou Si and wrote two reviews of the book, which were published in the press and online media.

第二年初，古清生在线装书局出版旅食天下系列，我为其中一本撰写了一篇书评，在《羊城晚报》《齐鲁晚报》等报刊发表。 At the beginning of the following year, Gu Qingsheng published the Traveling and Eating World series in the Threadneedle Bookstore, and I wrote a book review for one of the books, which was published in the Yangcheng Evening News, Qilu Evening News, and other newspapers and magazines.

从此，我们慢慢建立了联系。 From there, we slowly built a connection.

暑假期间，古清生携夫人及女儿到湘潭旅游，途经长沙，我设宴招待，古清生第一次吃到湖南的脆萝卜皮，觉得新奇，极力赞赏。 During the summer vacation, Gu Qingsheng with his wife and daughter traveled to Xiangtan, passing through Changsha, I hosted a banquet, Gu Qingsheng ate Hunan's crispy radish skin for the first time, found it novel, and highly appreciated it.

下午，我陪古清生去岳麓书院参观，向他介绍岳麓书院的文物、古迹。 In the afternoon, I accompanied Gu Qingsheng to visit the Yuelu Academy and introduced to him the cultural relics and monuments of the Academy.

古清生看到岳麓书院的一排园竹，跟我说他老家江西吉安也有这种竹子，还回忆起用油炸竹虫作美味的童年时光。 Seeing the rows of garden bamboo in Yuelu Academy, Gu Qingsheng told me that his hometown, Ji'an, Jiangxi Province, also has this kind of bamboo, and also recalled his childhood days when he used to deep-fry bamboo worms as a delicacy.

晚宴请古清生吃湖南小吃，我点了八样名小吃和油炸泥鳅等，我们边喝酒边闲聊各地的美食见闻。 The dinner invited Gu Qingsheng to eat Hunan snacks, I ordered eight kinds of snacks and deep-fried loach, etc., we drink and chat about the food of various places to see and hear.

古清生对小吃很感兴趣，边讲边挥舞着手，神态极其兴奋。 Gu Qingsheng is very interested in snacks, waving his hand while talking, his demeanor is extremely excited.

从古清生的讲述中，我发现他也是一个十足的馋虫。 From Gu Ching-Sheng's account, I realized that he was also a total glutton.

古清生说到写作的辛苦，说准备在神农架种茶，边劳作边写作。 Gu Qingsheng talked about the hard work of writing and said he was ready to grow tea in Shennongjia and write while laboring.

2007年春，我去北京出差，与古清生见面。 In the spring of 2007, I went to Beijing on a business trip and met with Gu Qingsheng.

我们喝酒、吃饭，侃美食、聊茶香，愉快之极。 We drank, we ate, we kibitzed about food, we chatted about the aroma of tea, and we had a great time.

我回湖南之前，古清生请我吃烤鱼。 Before I went back to Hunan, Gu Qingsheng invited me to eat grilled fish.

我们边吃边聊，又说起茶叶。 We ate and talked about tea again.

古清生已经在神农架的木鱼镇承包了一片茶园，采茶的时候，到神农架住两个月，其他时间请人打理。 Gu Qingsheng has contracted a tea plantation in Shennongjia's Muyu Township, and when picking tea, he went to live in Shennongjia for two months, and hired someone to take care of it for the rest of the time.

我再次到北京，正逢古清生的新书出版。 My visit to Beijing again coincided with the publication of Gu Qingsheng's new book.

深夜，出版社编辑开车带我们到通州去吃川味牛蛙，我们点了份大盆牛蛙，盆里飘着一层厚厚的花椒，吃得我嘴皮发麻。 Late at night, the publisher's editor drove us to Tongzhou for Sichuan-style bullfrogs, and we ordered a large pot of bullfrogs with a thick layer of peppercorns floating in the pot, which made my mouth numb.

结果，花椒辣得我一晚都没睡着，第二天跑去药店买药。 As a result, the peppers were so hot that I stayed up all night and ran to the drugstore the next day.

古清生说：茶能解百毒，无论是辣椒、花椒，茶都能减弱它的辣味、麻味。 Gu Qingsheng said: tea can detoxify all poisons, whether it's chili peppers or peppercorns, tea can diminish its spiciness and numbness.

要是喝了他种的茶，马上就会好。 If you drink the tea he grows, you'll be fine right away.

2009年初，我到北京。 In early 2009, I traveled to Beijing.

古清生蜗居在宾馆修改新书，我与他在北京师范大学附近的宾馆见面。 Gu Qingsheng was living at a snail's pace in a hotel revising his new book, and I met with him in a hotel near Beijing Normal University.

晚上在宾馆的餐厅里吃饭，古清生与我谈起他在全国各地采访时吃到的美食，颇有老饕的姿态。 In the evening, we dined in the restaurant of the hotel, and Gu Qingsheng talked to me about the food he had eaten during his interviews around the country, with the gesture of a gourmand.

晚上，我们在房间里喝他在神农架种的红茶，他说神农架的茶产量不高，味道却很醇正。 In the evening, we drank the black tea he grew in Shennongjia in our room, and he said that Shennongjia's tea production was not high, but the flavor was mellow.

古清生早就有归隐的意思，只是还没有找到合适的生存之道。 Gu Qingsheng had long had the intention of returning to seclusion, he just hadn't found the right way to survive yet.

他在神农架通过几年的投入和建设，终于有了一个可以生存的平台和劳动的空间。 He finally had a platform to live and a space to labor on through several years of dedication and construction in Shennongjia.

古清生确定要离开北京这个大都市，来到茫茫林海的神农架。 Gu Qingsheng is sure he wants to leave the metropolis of Beijing for the vast forested Shennongjia.

古清生除了种植茶叶，还种了几块菜地，保存古老的蔬菜种子。 In addition to growing tea, Koo Ching Sang also planted several vegetable plots to preserve ancient vegetable seeds.

他在茶园周边还养了上百箱蜜蜂，建成农业综合体。 He has also raised hundreds of hives of bees around the tea plantations to build an agribusiness.

古清生过着世外桃源的生活，他每天漫步于原始森林里，在那儿读书、写作、看星星，过着完全隐居的生活。 Gu Qingsheng lived a life outside the world, strolling through the primeval forest every day, where he read, wrote, watched the stars, and lived a life of complete seclusion.

而我也闲居在长沙的乡间，读书、写作，过着离群索居的日子。 And I lived idly in the countryside of Changsha, reading, writing, and living off the grid.

我们偶尔在网上联络一二，交流隐居生活里的琐事。 We occasionally connect online to exchange trivia about our reclusive lives.

那年八月，我在湖南省旅游局撰写《湖南省旅游志》。 In August of that year, I was at the Hunan Provincial Tourism Bureau writing the Hunan Provincial Tourism Journal.

古清生与搜狐网合作，进行中国大鲵、武陵山脉的考察活动，为此他先后去了湘潭、慈利等地。 Gu Qingsheng cooperated with Sohu.com to conduct an expedition to the Chinese giant salamander and the Wuling Mountains, for which he traveled to Xiangtan and Cili.

我陪他去张家界采访大鲵养殖之父王国兴并参观湖南娃娃鱼救护中心，后请张家界日报社副刊部主任龚爱民协助他。 I accompanied him to Zhangjiajie to interview Wang Guoxing, the father of giant salamander breeding, and to visit the Hunan Doll Fish Rescue Center, and later asked Gong Aimin, director of the Zhangjiajie Daily's deputy publication department, to assist him.

古清生觉得一个人在张家界不好玩，要我去陪同他考察武陵山脉。 Gu Qingsheng felt that it was not fun to be alone in Zhangjiajie and asked me to accompany him to examine the Wuling Mountains.

我到张家界，龚爱民来陪我俩，去了土家风情园、茅岩河、九天洞、宝峰湖等地。 I went to Zhangjiajie, Gong Aimin came to accompany the two of us, went to the Tujia style garden, Maoyan River, Jiu Tian Cave, Baofeng Lake and other places.

龚爱民知道我俩是好吃之徒，每餐安排我们吃不同的餐馆，就这样我们几乎吃遍了张家界的美食。 Gong Aimin knows that we are good eaters, each meal arranged for us to eat a different restaurant, so we almost ate all the food in Zhangjiajie.

古清生很高兴，觉得这次对张家界有了深度的了解。 Gu Qingsheng was very happy and felt that he had a deep understanding of Zhangjiajie this time.

龚爱民给我们介绍了张家界的茶叶资源，主要是张家界的云雾茶、霉茶等，我们都一一品尝，觉得很好。 Gong Aimin introduced us to Zhangjiajie's tea resources, mainly Zhangjiajie's cloud tea and moldy tea, etc. We all tasted them one by one and found them very good.

最后一天，我与古清生去天门山，我们安排的行程是一个上午，古清生在吃早餐的时候，吃完了一碗米粉，说还要来一碗，他跟我说，爬山要做好充分的准备，不能饿着肚子。 On the last day, I went to Tianmen Mountain with Gu Qingsheng, we arranged the trip for one morning, Gu Qingsheng ate a bowl of rice noodle at breakfast and said he wanted another bowl, he told me that you have to be well-prepared to climb the mountain, you can't be hungry.

结果上山以后，才发现温差较大，山上下着毛毛细雨，又冷又饿，我们只好喝可乐充饥。 As a result, after going up the mountain, we realized that there was a big difference in temperature, and it was raining heavily on the mountain, and we were cold and hungry, so we had to drink Coke to fill up our hunger.

后来在一个餐馆喝了一气热茶，才知道在张家界不只有云雾茶，还有在云雾里喝茶的习俗。 Later, after drinking a breath of hot tea in a restaurant, I realized that in Zhangjiajie not only cloud tea, but also the custom of drinking tea in the clouds.

我们到下午三点才下山，着急找地方美美吃了一顿，才赶回长沙。 We didn't get off the mountain until 3pm, and were in a hurry to find a place to have a nice meal before rushing back to Changsha.

古清生考察完张家界，到长沙，住在和府大酒店，常在五楼的熬吧就餐，几次叫我去品茶。 Gu Qingsheng investigation after Zhangjiajie, to Changsha, live in and the Palace Hotel, often in the fifth floor of the simmering bar dining, several times called me to go to tea.

熬吧是茶楼与书吧的结合，有专门的茶艺师泡茶，我不喜欢别人泡茶，也不喜欢别人打扰我谈话。 The Simmer Bar is a combination of a teahouse and a book bar, with a special tea master to make tea, and I don't like people making tea or interrupting my conversations.

有天晚上，我们在熬吧的花园里喝茶，吹着徐徐凉风，喝着古清生自己的茶，很是惬意。 One night we had tea in the garden of the Simmer Bar, enjoying the cool breeze and drinking Gu Ching Sheng's own tea.

古清生讲起他采用宋代的种茶方法，用纯天然的鸟粪做肥料，也说起种茶的辛苦和炒茶师傅的艰辛。 Gu Qingsheng talked about the Song Dynasty tea planting method he adopted, using all-natural bird droppings as fertilizer, as well as the hard work of planting tea and the hardships of the tea fryer.

这让我想起我的父母常年种茶和我童年采茶、制茶的辛酸。 It reminds me of my parents' years of growing tea and the travails of my childhood picking and making tea.

2012年春，古清生再次来到长沙，他撰写的新书已经完稿。 In the spring of 2012, Gu Qingsheng came to Changsha again, and the new book he was writing was already finished.

熬吧给古清生举办了一个书友会，请古清生讲述他隐居神农架的生活。 Simmer Bar hosted a book club for Gu Qingsheng to talk about his life in seclusion in Shennongjia.

其实，我知道他在神农架种茶的时候，没少吃神农架的美食，他搜集当地的野果，写了很多美食文章，成为神农架美食的活词典。 In fact, I know that when he was growing tea in Shennongjia, he didn't miss out on Shennongjia's delicacies, and he collected local wild fruits and wrote a lot of food articles, becoming a living dictionary of Shennongjia's cuisine.

他特地拿出他在红举村种的红茶，要我品味。 He made a point of bringing out the black tea he grew in the village of Hongju and asked me to savor it.

我尝到古清生的红茶，第一泡有些许青气味和生涩感；第二泡涩味下沉；第三泡舌尖味蕾膨胀；第四泡舌尖抵着上颚，茶味在口腔传播开去；第五泡有些许清味；第六泡有凉意；第七泡有点甜，慢慢回甘；第八泡呈现白糖味，沁甜无比。 When I tasted the black tea of Ku Ching Sang, the first infusion had a slight green smell and raw astringency; the second infusion had the astringency sinking down; the third infusion had the taste buds of the tongue expanding; the fourth infusion had the tip of the tongue against the palate, and the flavor of the tea spreading in the mouth; the fifth infusion had a slight refreshing taste; the sixth infusion had a coolness; the seventh infusion had a bit of sweetness, and a slow sweetness; and the eighth infusion presented a white sugar flavor, which was refreshingly sweet.

当时，熬吧泡茶采用的是纯净水，我觉得用白沙井水味道会更好。 At that time, Boiling Bar used pure water to make tea, and I thought it would taste better with Baishajing water.

晚上，我们闲聊的时候，古清生说起他在神农架种植茶叶时，在茶园里间植花草。 In the evening, as we chatted, Gu Qingsheng talked about how he interplanted flowers and plants in the tea garden when he was growing tea in Shennongjia.

我告诉他，在我的家乡梅山腹地的新化，茶园的周边，有天然的兰草，往往采茶的时候，也是兰花和紫罗兰开放得最旺盛的时候，我们嗅着兰花的香味，愉快地摘取一芽一叶和一芽两叶，这样制作的茶叶，具有兰花的香味。 I told him that in my hometown of Xinhua in the hinterland of Meishan Mountain, there are natural orchids around the tea gardens. Often, when we pick tea, it is also the time when orchids and violets open the most vigorously, and we sniff the fragrance of orchids and happily pick one bud and one leaf and one bud and two leaves, and the tea made in this way has the fragrance of orchids.

而我老家的茶园，不是很大一片或者整山整坡，也不连成整体，而是一块块分开。 The tea gardens in my hometown, on the other hand, are not very large or whole hills and slopes, nor are they connected as a whole, but are separated piece by piece.

松树叶落在地上变成腐殖质，对兰花的繁殖和生长帮助很大。 Pine leaves fall to the ground and turn into humus, which helps a lot in the propagation and growth of orchids.

我走的时候，古清生送了我两包顶级红茶，让我回家好好尝尝。 When I left, Gu Qingsheng gave me two packs of top-quality black tea to try at home.

我带回家，常与妻子在书房里品尝古清生的红茶，感受兰草的芳香。 I brought it home and often sip the black tea from Ancient Ching Sang in my study with my wife, taking in the aroma of orchids.

2013年春，我认识了新化天门种茶的同乡王洪坤先生，在他的一再邀请下，我去他的茶园看了看，觉得茶叶不错，只是在制作和管理上还需向同行学习，遂向他推荐了古清生。 In the spring of 2013, I got to know Mr. Wang Hongkun, a fellow tea grower in Xinhua Tianmen, and under his repeated invitations, I went to his tea plantation to take a look, and I felt that the tea was good, only that I still need to learn from my peers in production and management, and then I recommended Ancient Ching Sheng to him.

七月初，王洪坤邀请我与新化几位老乡一起去神农架探访古清生的茶园。 At the beginning of July, Wang Hongkun invited me to go to Shennongjia to visit the tea plantation of ancient Qingsheng with a few old folks in Xinhua.

7月7日，我们一行六人开车从长沙出发，走常德、吉首、重庆到成都，一路关注沿途的茶叶，有沅陵的官庄毛尖和碣滩茶。 On July 7, a group of six of us drove from Changsha to Chengdu by way of Changde, Jishou, and Chongqing, paying attention to the teas along the way, including Yuanling's Guanzhuang Mao Jian and Jietan tea.

8日，我们去雅安芦山清仁乡，品尝了雅安的雅茶。 On the 8th, we went to Qingren Township, Lushan, Ya'an, and tasted Ya'an's Ya tea.

回到成都，我邀请成都的茶文化研究者朱晓剑共进晚餐，王洪坤送他一盒寒茶，并邀他一起去神农架拜访古清生。 Back in Chengdu, I invited Zhu Xiaojian, a tea culture researcher from Chengdu, to dinner, and Wang Hongkun gave him a box of cold tea and invited him to visit Gu Qingsheng at Shennongjia.

9日，我们上午参加了中国社会救助基金会水安全的新闻发布会，交流对茶叶的认识。 On the 9th, we spent the morning at a CSRF Water Security press conference to share our knowledge of tea.

下午，主办方安排我们在宽窄巷子的庐恺老宅院喝茶，天空下着雨，我们边听雨边喝茶，空气湿润润的，茶也比较淡。 In the afternoon, the organizers arranged for us to have tea at the old Lukai mansion in the Broad and Narrow Alley, the sky was raining, we listened to the rain while drinking tea, the air was moist and the tea was relatively light.

晚上九点多，我们从成都出发，前往神农架，夜宿邻水县。 We left Chengdu after 9pm and headed to Shennongjia, staying overnight in neighboring county.

10日早晨，我们从邻水出发，过垫江、万州，走奉节、巫山，进入湖北巴东、兴山。 On the morning of the 10th, we departed from Neoshui, crossed Dianjiang and Wanzhou, took Fengjie and Wushan, and entered Badong and Xingshan in Hubei.

在巴东与兴山县交界处，探访了金果茶业，号称万亩茶园。 At the border of Badong and Xingshan County, visited the Golden Fruit Tea Industry, claiming 10,000 acres of tea gardens.

下午五点，我们进入神农架林区，过南阳镇、木鱼镇，住红坪镇。 At 5:00 pm, we entered Shennongjia forest area, passed through Nanyang town, Muyu town, and stayed in Hongping town.

在去红坪镇的路上，看了神农峰茶叶公司的茶园，种植时间不长，成片面积大，但茶叶干枯严重。 On the way to Hongping Township, looked at the Shennongfeng Tea Company's tea plantation, planting time is not long, the area of large patches, but the tea leaves dried up seriously.

11日早上，我们从红坪镇走机场线到红举村的古清生生态茶园，已经是中午。 On the morning of the 11th, it was already noon when we took the airport line from Hongping Township to the ancient Chingsheng Eco-Tea Garden in Hongju Village.

古清生已准备了新鲜的覆盆子为我们接风洗尘。 Koo Ching Sang has prepared fresh raspberries to receive us.

我们坐在他去年投资建设的茶叶生产园区，一边是生产厂区，一边是办公楼，中间有块很大的坪。 We were sitting in the tea production park he invested in last year, with a production plant on one side, an office building on the other, and a large ping in the middle.

我们品尝着古清生的红茶，边闲聊他制茶的讲究和追求，边看他的工人生产茶叶。 We savored Koo Ching Sang's black tea and gossiped about his tea-making preoccupations and pursuits while watching his workers produce tea.

闲聊了一个多小时，我们想亲自到古清生的茶园走走，亲临茶山。 After chatting for an hour or so, we wanted to walk around the tea gardens of Koo Ching Sang and visit the tea mountain ourselves.

当时，神农架已经两个多月没有降一滴雨水了，但古清生的茶园却长得很茂盛，嫩茶芽冒出来，星星点点。 At that time, Shennongjia has been more than two months without a drop of rainfall, but Gu Qingsheng's tea plantation is very lush, young tea buds emerge, stars.

我们遇上正在采茶的十多位妇女，她们忙活在茶蔸上，手指如弹钢琴般飞舞。 We met more than a dozen women who were picking tea, working on the root and stem of the tea plant, their fingers flying like playing a piano.

她们讲这里原是老茶区，在神农架改为林区时，很多人搬离了红举，茶园也荒了，古清生来了才慢慢恢复。 They said that this is the old tea area, in the Shennongjia into a forest area, many people moved away from the red lift, the tea plantation is also deserted, the ancient Qing Sheng came to slowly recover.

现在，古清生在神农架腹地种植茶叶已有一定年头，如今的他，已将自己深深扎根在这片土地上，俨然成了神农架茶山上的一株茶树，翩然出尘。 Now, Gu Qingsheng in the Shennongjia hinterland planting tea has been a certain number of years, and now he has been deeply rooted in this land, just like a tea tree on the Shennongjia tea mountain, fluttering out of the dust.

2013年7月7日，我与王洪坤等六人绕道成都，从成都过重庆进入湖北恩施、宜昌，到达神农架林区寻找美食作家古清生，并了解沿途的茶叶种植和生产情况，重点考察古清生在神农架种植的茶园。 On July 7, 2013, I took a detour with Wang Hongkun and six others from Chengdu across Chongqing into Hubei Enshi and Yichang to reach Shennongjia forest area in search of the food writer Gu Qingsheng, and to learn about tea planting and production along the way, focusing on the tea gardens planted by Gu Qingsheng in Shennongjia.

这次活动由王洪坤发起、组织，是一次真正的寻茶之旅。 This event was initiated and organized by Wang Hongkun, a real tea journey.

在成都停留的时候，我向王洪坤介绍了成都的茶文化研究者朱晓剑，后一同前往神农架拜访古清生。 While staying in Chengdu, I introduced Wang Hongkun to Zhu Xiaojian, a tea culture researcher in Chengdu, and later traveled together to Shennongjia to visit Gu Qingsheng.

我们驾驶两辆车，沿途遇到有茶叶种植的地方，就去观赏、调研、咨询、摄影、记录。 We drove two vehicles, and along the way, when we came across places where tea was grown, we went to view, research, consult, photograph and record.

我们不需要赶路，走到哪里算哪里，看到路旁种植有茶叶就拍照，并询问当地百姓，了解他们的种茶历史和独特的制作方法，并购买当地优质茶叶，仔细品尝其味道。 We didn't need to rush, we walked wherever we went, took photos when we saw tea planted by the roadside, and asked local people about their history of tea planting and unique production methods, and purchased local high-quality teas and carefully tasted their flavors.

进入恩施后，我们特意绕道利川，深入利川南部的毛坝镇、忠路镇等地，了解利川红茶的种植方法和制作技术，也顺便帮王洪坤落实在鄂西建立寒茶生产基地的事。 After entering Enshi, we deliberately detour Lichuan, Lichuan south of the town of Maoba, Zhonglu town, etc., to understand the Lichuan black tea planting methods and production techniques, but also to help Wang Hongkun implementation of the establishment of cold tea production bases in the west of Hubei.

利川位于湖北最西部，西邻重庆，南依湖南，北靠三峡，因境内最高峰星斗山而闻名于世，称星斗山河谷。 Lichuan is located in the westernmost part of Hubei, neighboring Chongqing in the west, relying on Hunan in the south and the Three Gorges in the north, and is famous for the highest peak in its territory, Stardust Mountain, which is called Stardust Mountain Valley.

利川有上千年的种茶历史，近160多年来一直是出口宜红功夫茶的核心产区，原生态植被润养了毛坝百年核心茶区。 Lichuan has thousands of years of tea planting history, nearly 160 years has been the core production area for exporting Yihong Kung Fu Tea, the original ecological vegetation moisturized Maoba hundred years of core tea area.

《利川县志》载：利川种茶自西周始，明朝初期为世人所知，清道光年间渐盛。 Lichuan County Journal: Lichuan tea since the Western Zhou Dynasty, the early Ming Dynasty for the world to know, Qing Daoguang years gradually flourished.

利川适合茶叶生长，利川功夫红茶有香、甜、滑等特点。 Lichuan is suitable for tea growing, and Lichuan Kung Fu black tea is characterized by aroma, sweetness and smoothness.

进入利川茶区，我们明显体会到利川山好、水好、茶更好的特点。 Entering the Lichuan tea area, we clearly appreciate the Lichuan mountains, water, tea better characteristics.

利川是恩施的一个县级市，茶叶是其支柱产业之一，有星斗山、生耕甘露、云头山等五个红茶品牌。 Lichuan is a county-level city in Enshi, and tea is one of its pillar industries, with five black tea brands, such as Xingdoushan, Shengkong Ganlu, and Yuntoushan.

炒作得最厉害的星斗山茶产自星斗山国家自然保护区核心区域，即利川境内星斗山国家自然保护区核心缓冲区，核心区已经没人居住，是利川市最好的茶叶产地。 The most highly speculated Xingdoushan tea is produced in the core area of Xingdoushan National Nature Reserve, that is, the core buffer zone of Xingdoushan National Nature Reserve within Lichuan, the core area has been uninhabited, and it is the best tea production area in Lichuan City.

毛坝镇地处星斗山腹地，常年云遮雾绕。 Maoba Township is located in the hinterland of Stardust Mountain, which is always covered with clouds and fog.

兰田村是毛坝相对偏僻的村落之一，大山中散落的吊脚楼是当地村民的住所，他们以种茶叶作为主要收入来源，青翠的茶园是村里的财富。 Lantian Village is one of the relatively remote villages in Maoba. The hammocks scattered in the mountains are the residences of the local villagers, who grow tea as their main source of income, and the verdant tea gardens are the wealth of the village.

楠木村在大堰半山上，一垄垄黑色的遮阳网下是长势良好的茶苗。 Nanmu Village is halfway up the mountain in Dayan, and under the rows of black shade nets are well-grown tea seedlings.

这些茶叶经过采摘、加工、装箱，漂洋过海来到德国，最终走进欧洲人的家庭。 These teas were picked, processed, boxed, and sailed across the ocean to Germany, where they eventually made their way into European homes.

20世纪80年代中期，利川市夹壁村发现一株能产生“冷后浑”现象的优良茶树，后培育了毛坝早一、冷后浑、黄金叶、红杜鹃、恩茶红等五大优质种群，红茶汤色红艳起金圈，滋味醇厚甘爽，香气浓郁，茶汤冷却后汤色变浑，加热又恢复红艳明亮。 In the mid-1980s, Lichuan City, Lichuan City, clipboard village found a strain can produce "cold after the muddy" phenomenon of fine tea trees, cultivated after the Maoba early one, cold after the muddy, gold leaf, red azalea, tea red, such as five high-quality populations, red tea soup color red color gold ring, mellow and sweet taste, rich aroma, tea soup after cooling soup color becomes muddy, heating and then return to the The color of the tea soup becomes muddy after cooling, and then returns to red color and brightness after heating.

我们在毛坝镇品尝了当地几家茶叶企业的利川红，入口香甜，口感极好。 We tasted Lichuan Red from several local tea companies in Maoba Township, which was sweet and extremely flavorful.

我仔细观察了这些茶叶，它们有共同的特点：条索紧细、附有金毫、色泽乌润、汤色红亮、滋味鲜醇、香气持久，茶汤冷却后有“冷后浑”的现象。 I carefully observed the tea leaves, they have common characteristics: tight and thin, with golden hair, color and lustre, red soup color, taste fresh and mellow, long-lasting aroma, tea soup cooling after the phenomenon of "cold after the muddy".

我们在那里喝茶，享受原产地、原叶、原香、原味的四原特色。 We drank tea there and enjoyed the four original characteristics of original origin, original leaf, original fragrance and original flavor.

我仔细观察了利川红经典品种从刚泡好到冷却的全过程，刚泡的茶汤红艳，还冒起不少金圈，细细品尝，醇厚甘爽，香气浓郁，在口腔里回味悠久；茶汤冷却后，茶汤的颜色开始浑浊，茶味一丝不变；继续加热茶汤，很快恢复了红艳明亮的颜色。 I carefully observed the classic variety of Lichuan red from just brewed to cooling the whole process, just brewed tea red, also rose a lot of gold rings, a careful taste, mellow and sweet, rich aroma, in the mouth aftertaste a long time; tea soup cooling, the color of tea soup began to cloudy, the tea flavor a trace of the same; continue to heat the tea soup, soon returned to the red bright color.

看了之后，我确实有些震惊。 I did get a little shocked when I read it.

我数年前痴迷品茶，现在已向读茶转变。 I was obsessed with tea tasting a few years ago and have now made the shift to tea reading.

朋友们送的新茶，尝两次，不再长饮。 New tea from friends, taste it twice, no longer drink it for long.

读书烦闷之时，打开茶叶包装，闻闻茶香，熏熏茶意，也就足矣。 When reading boredom, open the tea packaging, smell the tea, smoked tea, it is enough.

常守文字，多少有些枯燥无味，偶尔与朋友小聚，多谈食谈酒谈茶谈烟，在世俗里过滤一番。 Often abide by the text, more or less boring, occasionally small gatherings with friends, more talk about food talk about wine talk about tea talk about cigarettes, in the world to filter some.

回到书堆前，又是面壁思字，谨小慎微。 Back to the pile of books, again, face to face with words and caution.

友人知道我以前奢酒好茶，出差之时，常捎带异茶奇酒回长沙送我。 My friends know that I used to have good tea and wine, and when I traveled, they often brought strange tea and wine back to Changsha to send me.

有一朋友去云南半月有余，带回一小盒普洱赠我，盒亦精巧，茶成颗粒，小似铁丸，表面嫩黄，茸茸蒲蒲，裹于锡箔中。 A friend went to Yunnan for more than half a month, brought back a small box of puerh to me, the box is also exquisite, the tea into particles, small like iron pills, the surface of the tender yellow, fuzzy bushels, wrapped in tin foil.

我闻过数次，香气回肠，甜腻有加。 I've smelled it several times and the aroma is reverberating with sweetness.

时隔年余，妻翻箱倒柜，寻得此茶。 After more than a year, my wife rummaged through the box and found this tea.

我兴趣来时，偶尔泡两杯与妻对饮。 When my interest comes, I occasionally make a couple cups to drink with my wife.

普洱茶以云南大叶种晒青茶再加工而成，形条粗壮肥大，色泽乌润或褐红，俗称猪肝色。 Pu-erh Tea is reprocessed from Yunnan large-leaf sun green tea, with thick and fat strips, and the color is moist or brownish red, commonly known as pig's liver color.

滋味醇厚回甘，陈香味重，内质汤色红浓明亮，叶底褐红，置于玻璃瓶内，摇荡后光芒四溢。 The taste is mellow and sweet, with a heavy aroma of aging, the inner soup color is red, thick and bright, and the leaf bottom is brownish red, placed in a glass bottle, it shakes and glows with light.

普洱茶有保健的作用，可以减肥，药理效果也不错。 Pu-erh tea has health benefits, can lose weight and has good pharmacological effects.

普洱茶其实是一种陈茶，可以长期收藏保存，有越久越好的说法。 Pu-erh tea is actually a kind of aged tea, which can be collected and preserved for a long time, and there is a saying that the longer it lasts, the better it is.

藏家为了发挥普洱的这一特性，常买大量的茶储藏在家里，数年后再饮。 Collectors often buy large quantities of tea to store at home and drink it after several years in order to utilize this characteristic of pu-erh.

俗话说，普洱茶是“爷爷的茶，孙子卖”。 As the saying goes, Pu-erh tea is "grandpa's tea, sold by grandchildren".

普洱茶出现的年代比较早，有着悠久的历史文化沉淀。 Pu-erh tea appeared relatively early, with a long history of cultural precipitation.

唐朝，云南的普洱茶开始大规模地种植、生产，时称普茶。 During the Tang Dynasty, Yunnan's Pu'er tea began to be planted and produced on a large scale, and was then called Pu'er tea.

明朝，普洱茶声誉更盛。 During the Ming Dynasty, the reputation of Pu'er tea grew even more.

以云南普洱地区为中心，向国内外辐射，形成了五条名噪一时的茶马古道，即茶马大道、江莱茶道、旱季茶道、勐腊茶道、景栋茶道等。 With Yunnan Pu'er region as the center, radiating both at home and abroad, five famous ancient tea-horse routes have been formed, namely, the Tea Horse Road, Jianglai Tea Route, Dry Season Tea Route, Menghu La Tea Route, and Jingdong Tea Route.

普洱茶远销新加坡、马来西亚、缅甸、泰国、法国、英国、朝鲜、日本等国家，在世界上享有盛名。 Pu-erh tea is exported to Singapore, Malaysia, Myanmar, Thailand, France, Britain, North Korea, Japan and other countries, and is renowned in the world.

清朝，普洱茶达到第一个鼎盛时期，成为皇室贡茶，作为国礼赐给外国使者。 During the Qing Dynasty, Pu-erh tea reached its first heyday, becoming a tribute tea for the royal family and given as a state gift to foreign envoys.

溥仪曾说“夏喝龙井，冬饮普洱”。 Puyi once said, "Drink Longjing in summer and Pu'er in winter".

普洱茶最适宜冬天围着炉子，边烤火边聊天边喝茶，人生的苦乐和闲适，都沁入茶里，更加显露了茶的文化和品味。 Pu-erh tea is most suitable for winter around the stove, while roasting fire and chatting and drinking tea, the bitterness and happiness of life and leisure, are percolated into the tea, more revealing the culture and taste of tea.

1975年，普洱茶发生了重大转变，由只生产生普开始向生产熟普进化。 In 1975, Pu-erh tea underwent a major transformation and began to evolve from producing only raw Pu-erh to producing ripe Pu-erh.

生普是普洱生茶的简称，以云南大叶种茶树鲜叶为原料，经过杀青、揉捻、日光干燥、蒸压成型等工艺制成茶，包括散茶和紧压茶，色泽墨绿，香气清纯持久，滋味浓厚回甘，汤色绿黄清亮，叶底肥厚黄绿。 Raw Puerh is short for Puerh Raw Tea, with Yunnan large-leafed tea tree fresh leaves as raw materials, after killing, kneading, drying in sunlight, steaming molding and other processes made of tea, including loose tea and pressed tea, dark green in color, pure and persistent aroma, strong and sweet taste, green and yellow soup color and bright, fat and yellowish-green leaf bottom.

熟普是普洱熟茶的简称，以云南大叶种晒青茶为原料，采用渥堆工艺，经发酵加工成散茶和紧压茶，汤色红浓明亮，香气独特陈香，滋味醇厚回甘，叶底红褐均匀。 Ripe Pu is the abbreviation of Puerh ripe tea, with Yunnan large-leafed sun green tea as raw material, adopting Wo heap technology, fermented and processed into loose tea and tightly pressed tea, with red, thick and bright soup color, unique aroma of aged fragrance, mellow and sweet taste, and red and brown uniform leaf bottom.

普洱茶的传统制作工艺有采茶、杀青、揉捻、晒干、筛选、蒸压制型、干燥等；现代制作工艺有采茶、杀青、揉捻、干燥、增湿渥堆、晾干、筛选、蒸压制型、最终干燥等。 The traditional production process of Pu-erh tea includes tea plucking, greening, kneading, sun-drying, screening, steam-pressing and drying, etc. The modern production process includes tea plucking, greening, kneading, drying, humidification, drying, screening, steam-pressing and final drying, etc. The traditional production process of Pu-erh tea includes tea plucking, greening, kneading, drying, humidifying, drying, screening, steam-pressing, and final drying.

因为时代不同，制作差异比较大。 Because of the different eras, the production varies more.

普洱茶与黑茶有些相似，只是茶叶原料不同。 Pu-erh tea is somewhat similar to black tea, except that the raw materials of the tea are different.

黑茶是以小叶种茶树的粗老鲜叶为原料制成的初制毛茶，普洱茶是以大叶种晒青毛茶为原料，经自然发酵陈化或人工渥堆后发酵而制成的再加工茶类。 Black tea is made from the coarse and old fresh leaves of small-leafed tea trees, while Puerh tea is a reprocessed tea made from large-leafed sun-green tea, which is naturally fermented and aged or artificially fermented.

黑茶主要供边销，普洱茶可供边销、内销和外销。 Black tea is mainly for border sales, while Pu'er tea can be used for border sales, domestic sales and export sales.

普洱茶有产地、品种、原料、形状、品质、饮用等六大特色，黑茶只有发酵。 Pu-erh tea has six main characteristics such as origin, variety, raw material, shape, quality and drinking, and black tea is only fermented.

饮用普洱茶，需要十分的耐心和闲适，才能感觉出普洱的味道。 Drinking Pu-erh tea requires great patience and idleness to feel the flavor of Pu-erh.

喝普洱茶，第一个前提条件是必须用滚烫的开水或煮沸的泉水冲泡，第一泡茶水太涩，一般不喝；第二泡茶水暗红，像装在瓶里的红酒一样发着幽光；第三泡茶水颜色鲜明，像倒在高脚玻璃杯的红酒，荡漾着蓝光。 Drink Pu-erh tea, the first prerequisite is that it must be brewed with boiling hot water or boiled spring water, the first bubble of tea water is too astringent, generally do not drink; the second bubble of tea water dark red, like bottled red wine glowing with a ghostly light; the third bubble of tea water color is distinctive, like poured in a tall glass of red wine, swirling with blue light.

第二泡一般人喝太浓，常与第三泡混着喝。 The second brew is too strong for the average person and is often mixed with the third brew.

初次喝普洱，可以从第四泡以后的茶水喝起。 For the first time, you can drink Puerh from the fourth brew onwards.

第四泡以后，每15秒冲一泡，好的普洱可以冲一百泡，一杯茶下来，也就半天工夫，既考验了人的耐心，也能体会茶的文化与气氛。 After the fourth bubble, every 15 seconds to brew a bubble, good Pu-erh can be brewed a hundred bubbles, a cup of tea down, but also half a day's work, not only to test the patience of people, but also to experience the culture and atmosphere of tea.

喝普洱茶，最好是饭后半小时开始，喝了也不感觉到饥饿或空腹难受。 Drinking Pu-erh tea, it is best to start half an hour after a meal, and drink it without feeling hungry or uncomfortable on an empty stomach.

泡过的茶叶，可以废物利用，做色素、染料、有机肥、洗涤剂等。 Brewed tea leaves can be wasted and utilized to make coloring, dyes, organic fertilizers, detergents, and more.

普洱茶按存放方式分干仓普洱、湿仓普洱，按外形分满清帝王七子饼茶、沱茶、砖茶、金瓜贡茶、千两茶、散茶，按有无发酵再加工分生普、熟普，按型制分散茶和紧压茶。 Pu-erh tea is divided into dry warehouse pu-erh and wet warehouse pu-erh according to the way of storage, divided into Manchu Emperor's seven cake tea, tuo tea, brick tea, jin gua gong tea, a thousand two tea, loose tea according to the shape, divided into raw pu-erh and ripe pu-erh according to the presence or absence of fermentation and reprocessing, according to the type of system of dispersed tea and tightly pressed tea.

普洱茶是云南普洱地区独有的茶叶，口味丰富，一山一味，越陈越香。 Pu-erh tea is unique to the Pu-erh region of Yunnan, with rich flavors, one for each mountain, and the more it ages, the more fragrant it becomes.

昆明至今还流行着“好看不过素打扮，好吃不过茶泡饭”的俗话。 Kunming is still popular today, "good-looking but vegetarian dress, delicious but tea bubble rice," as the saying goes.

普洱茶也可以入菜，主要起到去油腻，清肠胃的作用。 Pu-erh tea can also be used in dishes, mainly serving to remove grease and clear the stomach.

在广州、香港，有不少普洱茶菜式，台湾有一个“普洱料理”系列，包括普洱鸡、普洱鱼、普洱贝、普洱蛋、普洱佛跳墙等。 In Guangzhou and Hong Kong, there are many Pu-erh tea dishes, and in Taiwan, there is a series of "Pu-erh cuisine", including Pu-erh chicken, Pu-erh fish, Pu-erh shellfish, Pu-erh egg, Pu-erh Buddha jumping over the wall, and so on.

比较流行的普洱菜式有普洱肘子、菊花普洱熏鸽子、普洱炖排骨、普洱茶粥。 Some of the more popular pu-er dishes include pu-er elbow, smoked pigeon with chrysanthemum and pu-er, stewed pork ribs with pu-er, and pu-er tea porridge.

我与妻闲聊着普洱茶的轶事，感受着普洱的味道，不知不觉就喝了三十泡。 My wife and I chatted about the anecdotes of Pu'er tea and felt the flavor of Pu'er, and before we knew it, we had drunk thirty brews.

长期在城市间行走，相似的城市很多，能留下记忆的城市不多，让我记忆深刻的就更少了。 Walking from city to city for a long time, there are many similar cities, not many cities that I can leave memories of, and even fewer that stick with me.

这次到昆明住了几天，昆明这座城市在我的记忆里留下了深刻的印象，这也许与昆明四季如春有关。 I stayed in Kunming for a few days this time, and the city left a deep impression in my memory, which might have something to do with the fact that Kunming has four seasons like spring.

我到昆明时，正好碰上西南地区大旱，昆明有好几个月没有下雨了，干旱异常，气温高涨。 When I arrived in Kunming, it coincided with a major drought in the southwest; it hadn't rained in Kunming for several months, and the drought was unusual, with high temperatures.

其他城市已经是春花烂漫，昆明的春天好像来得晚些，更像是冬末。 While other cities are already in full bloom, spring in Kunming seems to come later, more like late winter.

走在昆明的大街小巷，我的脚步不自觉地慢下来，没有大城市的快节奏，与本地人一起慢悠悠地行走在街上，欣赏起两旁的景物。 Walking in the streets and alleys of Kunming, my footsteps unconsciously slowed down, without the fast pace of the big city, walking slowly with the locals, enjoying the scenery on both sides of the street.

在昆明住了数天，感觉到昆明人生活节奏有些慢。 After staying in Kunming for a few days, I feel that the pace of life in Kunming is a bit slow.

我们生活在大城市，都是早起的鸟儿，赶着上班和做事。 We live in a big city and we are all early birds, rushing to work and things.

在昆明，很难看到忙碌的人群，他们在悠闲地过日子。 In Kunming, it is hard to see busy people who are taking it easy.

每天早晨，我七点起床，收拾洗漱后去吃早餐，早餐店才开门，店里冷冷清清，很少有食客。 Every morning, I woke up at seven, cleaned up and went to breakfast, the breakfast place was only open, the store was cold and quiet, very few diners.

看着空旷的店面，觉得有些凄凉和冷清，坐下吃完过桥米线，再去街上闲逛。 Looking at the empty storefront, I felt a little bleak and cold, sat down and ate the Bridge Rice Noodle, and then went to wander the streets.

街上也安安静静，除了打扫卫生的环卫工人，其他人比较少，除了偶尔碰上一两个早起的本地老人，在不急不慢地转悠或做早操之外，很难看到其他人。 The streets were also quiet, with relatively few people other than the sanitation workers cleaning up, and it was hard to see anyone other than the occasional local old man or two who bumped into an early riser, milling about unhurriedly or doing their morning exercises.

我在大街上转一圈，呼吸了新鲜空气，才回酒店准备去办事，再经过早餐店时，才看到有人来用餐。 I took a walk around the street and got some fresh air before heading back to the hotel to get ready for my errands, and then passed the breakfast place before I saw someone coming to dine.

我在昆明，住在关上，知道昆明人讲究夜生活，对漆黑的夜晚情有独钟，晚上过得有滋有味，比白天更有质量。 I was in Kunming, living on the pass, and I know that Kunming people are concerned about nightlife, and they are fond of the dark night, and they spend their evenings with more quality than the daytime.

舞厅和宵夜是昆明人的必修课，他们热衷于将运动与进食相结合。 Dance clubs and late-night snacks are a must for Kunmingites, who are keen to combine exercise with eating.

我在昆明认识了一些当地的男女老少，他们都是“舞林中人”，对舞蹈无比热爱，晚上跳到十二点才肯散场。 I met some local men and women in Kunming who were all "dancers" and loved dancing so much that they would not leave until twelve o'clock at night.

跳完舞，他们的下一个项目就是宵夜，对宵夜的态度，比对舞蹈更认真。 After the dance, their next project was a snack, which they took more seriously than the dance.

喜欢宵夜的人，一般忙碌到凌晨三四点，才肯收场，回家休息。 People who like late night snacks are usually busy until 3 or 4 am before they are willing to call it a night and go home to rest.

我到昆明，也参加了他们的宵夜大军，好好地享受了几个夜晚的美食，昆明的美食非常便宜，我与妻子一个晚上才吃不到一百元，而且品尝了许多不同的美味。 I went to Kunming and joined their late-night snacking army, and enjoyed a couple of nights of good food. The food in Kunming was so cheap that my wife and I ate for less than a hundred dollars a night, and we tasted many different delicacies.

到昆明，吃滇味美食也许是一件很惬意的事，我作为湘菜的爱好者，吃到傣族美食，非常兴奋。 When you go to Kunming, it might be enjoyable to eat Dian cuisine. I was very excited to eat Dai cuisine as a fan of Hunan cuisine.

以前没到过昆明，只知道昆明的饮食属于川菜里的滇贵菜系，有傣族风味。 I've never been to Kunming before, and I only know that the food in Kunming belongs to the Diangui cuisine in Sichuan cuisine, with a Dai flavor.

傣族菜到底是一种什么样子，我无从知晓。 I have no way of knowing exactly what a Dai dish looks like.

这次到昆明，才知道昆明的饮食很有特色，酸味和卤味调配，形成自己的特色。 This time, when I visited Kunming, I realized that Kunming's food is very unique, with sour and marinated flavors blended to form their own specialties.

昆明人的主食，除了大米，洋芋（马铃薯）占有很大的比例，我在昆明吃过的洋芋，有洋芋饭、洋芋饼、脆皮洋芋等，做得很有特色，味道也很别致，给我留下了深刻的印象。 Kunming people's staple food, in addition to rice, taro (potato) occupies a large proportion, I have eaten in Kunming taro, taro rice, taro cake, crispy taro, etc., made a very distinctive flavor is also very chic, leaving me a deep impression.

昆明人习惯于吃带酸味的菜，虽然没有贵州菜那么酸，却酸味不减，而且腐乳辣味常留，连普通的蛋炒饭、蛋炒粉等食物，都可以吃到快意的酸辣味。 Kunming people are accustomed to eating dishes with sour flavor, although not as sour as Guizhou dishes, but the sour taste is not reduced, and curd spicy flavor often stay, even ordinary egg fried rice, egg fried noodles and other food, you can eat fast and sour and spicy flavor.

在我品味过的很多小吃和滇菜中，都加有酸辣的腐乳和剁辣椒，用来提味。 In many of the snacks and Yunnanese dishes I've tasted, sour and spicy fermented bean curd and chopped chili peppers are added to enhance the flavor.

在昆明的街头巷尾，到处可见的是茶叶店。 In the streets and alleys of Kunming, tea stores can be found everywhere.

昆明的茶叶店把茶叶和烟草集中在一起卖。 Tea stores in Kunming sell tea and tobacco together.

云南有两大特产，一是普洱茶，一是云烟。 Yunnan has two major specialties, one is Pu'er Tea and the other is Yunnan Tobacco.

在人们的生活中，烟和茶慢慢地被人们所重视，也被人为地炒作，搞得名声在外。 In people's lives, cigarettes and tea are slowly being taken seriously and artificially hyped up to make a name for themselves.

我喜欢喝普洱茶，以前很多朋友给我捎带普洱茶回长沙，那时并不知道普洱茶的意义和品味的形式。 I like drinking Pu'er tea, many friends used to bring me Pu'er tea back to Changsha, I didn't know the significance of Pu'er tea and the form of taste at that time.

这次到昆明，我当然要好好品味地道的普洱茶，感受普洱的风味，我每到一家茶叶店，都要与老板侃普洱，一起品味他们煮的普洱茶。 This time when I was in Kunming, of course I had to savor the authentic Pu'er tea and feel the flavor of Pu'er. Whenever I went to a tea store, I had to kan Pu'er with the owner and savor the Pu'er tea they cooked together.

喝多了，我才知道，像我这样饮茶如牛的人，最好用大玻璃壶泡。 After drinking more, I realized that people like me, who drink tea like cattle, are better off brewing it in a large glass jug.

茶叶洗干净后，一次又一次地续水，加满一壶开水，茶水带着葡萄酒的红色，非常诱人，喝着还有点甜味。 After the tea leaves were cleaned, the water was refilled again and again to fill the pot of boiling water, and the tea, with its reddish color of wine, was very attractive and a little sweet to drink.

有了这些零星的记忆，慢慢具象化，我才整理出对昆明普洱茶的印象，久久地留在脑海里。 With these sporadic memories, slowly materializing, I was able to compile an impression of Kunming Puerh Tea that stayed in my mind for a long time.

我认识沱茶，应该从2003年说起。 My acquaintance with Tuocha should begin in 2003.

我大学毕业，到出版社做编辑，常与茶、酒打交道，慢慢地喜欢上了品茶。 I graduated from college and went to work as an editor at a publishing house, where I often dealt with tea and wine, and slowly fell in love with tea tasting.

一天，我去超市购物，在货架上看到了用黄蜡纸包裹的沱茶，就买了两砣，准备与朋友分享。 One day, I went to the supermarket for shopping, and saw Tuocha wrapped in yellow wax paper on the shelves, so I bought two weights to share with my friends.

我对沱茶的了解，起源于我中学时买的一册书《中国名茶》。 My knowledge of tuocha tea originated from a book I bought in middle school called Famous Chinese Teas.

我在梅城新华书店花了两毛七分钱买的，回家一有空闲就翻阅此书，记熟了所有中国名茶的基本知识。 I spent 27 cents in the Meicheng Xinhua bookstore to buy, home as soon as I have a spare moment to read this book, memorized all the basic knowledge of the famous Chinese tea.

我把买的沱茶保存了起来。 I saved the cuppa I bought.

不久，我又买了几砣，一共有十多砣，用纸箱装好，小心收藏。 Soon after, I bought a few more weights, more than a dozen in all, and packed them in a cardboard box for careful storage.

随后，我不停地搬家，换了五六个地方，随身物品都丢得差不多了，这些沱茶倒一直带在身边。 Subsequently, I kept moving, changed five or six places, the belongings are almost lost, these Tuocha has been with me.

直到2005年，住到好友家，我还带着。 Until 2005, staying at my best friend's house, I carried.

一天，朋友的姐姐来电话，问有陈茶吗？ One day, a friend's sister called and asked if she had any aged tea.

说外甥女身上长了疙瘩，要用茶叶洗澡。 Said niece had bumps on her body and needed to bathe in tea.

电话是我接的，我就告诉她，我收藏了一些茶叶。 I answered the phone, so I told her that I had some tea in my collection.

她来了后，我给了她一坨，告诉她用烹蒸的方法把沱茶蒸散，再去煮水洗澡，就会有奇效。 When she arrived, I gave her a lump and told her that cooking and steaming the tuocha to disperse it, and then going to boil the water to take a bath, it would work wonders.

2006年1月，我搬离了朋友家，沱茶没有带走。 In January 2006, I moved out of my friend's house, and Tuocha didn't take it with me.

很快，我结婚了。 Soon after, I got married.

我的写作方向转变到旅游、美食。 My writing direction shifted to travel and food.

我陆续写了几十篇有关各地名茶的散文，在数家报刊开辟品茗专栏。 I have written dozens of essays about famous teas from all over the world, and opened a column on tea tasting in several newspapers and magazines.

我一直想写一篇有关沱茶的文章，但迟迟没有动笔。 I've been wanting to write an article about Tuo Tea for a while now, but I've been slow to get started.

因我坚持自己的写作态度，所写美食、旅游，强调现场感，必须自己去过原产地，在当地品味过才敢写。 Because I insist on my own writing attitude, I write about food and travel, emphasizing the sense of site, and I must have been to the place of origin and tasted it locally before I dare to write about it.

2010年4月，我陪妻子到昆明见一位中医学教授。 In April 2010, I accompanied my wife to Kunming to meet a professor of Chinese medicine.

我在宾馆附近的茶叶店里再次见到了思念已久的沱茶，我当即就买了几砣带回宾馆。 I saw the long-sought Tuocha again in the tea store near the hotel, and I immediately bought a few weights to bring back to the hotel.

在我浏览云南旅游地图的时候，发现大理市有个地方叫“下关”。 When I was browsing the Yunnan travel map, I found a place called "Xiaguan" in Dali City.

我想了很久，终于想起来了，下关就是产沱茶的地方。 I've been thinking about it for a long time and finally remembered that Shimonoseki is the place where Tuocha is produced.

我与妻子见完教授，就去大理旅游，妻子尽情地欣赏苍山洱海，感受自然风情。 After meeting the professor, my wife and I traveled to Dali, where my wife enjoyed the Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Sea and the natural flavor.

我惦记着即将见到的沱茶，总心不在焉。 I was always distracted by thoughts of the cuirasses I was about to see.

妻子很清楚，我们从昆明到大理，主要目的是来品沱茶、买沱茶。 My wife knew very well that our main purpose of traveling from Kunming to Dali was to come to taste Tuocha and buy Tuocha.

我们回到旅馆，匆匆吃过晚饭，到街上去溜达。 We returned to the hotel, ate a quick dinner, and went out into the street to sneak around.

在不远的地方发现一家茶叶店，我走进店里询问。 Spotting a tea store not far away, I walked into the store to inquire.

老板是江西新余人，姊妹四个都在云南做茶叶生意，有十多年了。 The owner is from Xinyu, Jiangxi Province, and all four sisters have been in the tea business in Yunnan for more than ten years.

听我说是长沙来的，特意到大理来买沱茶，她很兴奋，又很热情。 She was very excited and enthusiastic when she heard me say that I was from Changsha and had come to Dali specially to buy Tuocha.

她马上摆出茶盘，给我煮沱茶喝。 She immediately set out a tea tray and made me tuo tea to drink.

在闲聊中才知道，她在长沙高桥大市场有一个普洱茶销售点，五月去长沙开业。 In casual conversation, I learned that she has a Pu'er tea sales point in Changsha Gaoqiao Market, and will go to Changsha in May to open the business.

我们边品味她煮的沱茶，边询问与沱茶有关的问题。 We savored the tuocha she made and asked questions related to tuocha.

她告诉我，沱茶以云南下关沱茶最为有名。 She told me that Tuocha is most famous for Yunnan Xiaguan Tuocha.

下关沱茶属普洱紧压茶，凹面看像厚壁小碗，凸面看似圆形面包。 Xiaguan Tuocha is a Puerh tightly pressed tea, the concave side looks like a small thick-walled bowl, and the convex side looks like a round bread.

外形加工源于明代普洱团茶和清代女儿茶。 The shape processing originated from the Puerh Group Tea of the Ming Dynasty and the Daughter Tea of the Qing Dynasty.

1902年，由下关永昌祥商号定型，有百余年历史。 In 1902, it was stereotyped by Shimonoseki Yongchangxiang Trading Company, with a history of more than a hundred years.

与下关沱茶最为接近的是月饼形团茶，由景谷县私人茶坊制作，1900年运销下关并在此制作，又称景关茶。 The closest thing to Xiaguan Tuocha is the moon cake-shaped group tea, made by private tea houses in Jinggu County, shipped to Xiaguan in 1900 and made here, also known as Jingguan tea.

老板又告诉我沱茶的历史，下关沱茶创始人为大理喜洲四大商帮之首的严子珍，他于1902年与江西商人彭永昌、北城商人杨鸿春合资创立永昌祥商号，在国内主要做滇藏、滇川贸易，在国外主要做滇缅、滇印贸易。 The boss also told me the history of Tuocha, Xiaguan Tuocha founder of the Dali Xizhou four merchants of the first Yan Zizhen, he was in 1902 and Jiangxi businessman Peng Yongchang, North City businessman Yang Hongchun joint venture to create the Yongchang Xiang business, in the country mainly to do the Yunnan-Tibet, Yunnan-Sichuan trade, mainly abroad to do the Yunnan-Burma, Yunnan-India trade.

永昌祥下关沱茶问世，很快在滇、川、藏等省打开销路，其他商家见沱茶有利可图，纷纷投资经营，下关一时成为众商家角逐的战场。 Yongchang Xiang Shimonoseki Tuocha came out, and soon in Yunnan, Sichuan, Tibet and other provinces to open up sales, other businessmen see Tuocha profitable, have invested in business, Shimonoseki has become the battlefield of the businessmen competing for a moment.

其中，永昌祥的松鹤牌沱茶在四川备受推崇。 Among them, Yongchangxiang's Songhe Brand Tuocha is highly respected in Sichuan.

主销四川叙府（宜宾）沱江流域的碗形茶、销往康藏的带柄心脏型茶是其代表，前者称叙府庄茶、后者称紧茶。 The bowl-shaped tea mainly sold in the Tuo-river basin of Sichuan's Xufu (Yibin) and the heart-shaped tea with a handle sold to Kham and Tibet are its representatives; the former is called Xufuzhuang tea, and the latter is called Tight tea.

叙府庄茶经沱江水冲泡，色、香、味俱佳，当地人对此茶极其珍爱，雅称沱茶。 Syufus Zhuang tea brewed by the Tuojiang River water, color, aroma and taste are excellent, the local people of this tea is extremely treasured, elegantly known as Tuocha.

1950年，康藏茶厂定名云南省下关茶厂。 In 1950, Kangzang Tea Factory was named Yunnan Province Xiaguan Tea Factory.

1955年，永昌祥、复春和、茂恒等并入下关茶厂。 In 1955, Yongchangxiang, Fuchunhe and Maoheng were merged into Xiaguan Tea Factory.

在继承和发展永昌祥下关茶厂传统工艺的基础上，不断开拓创新，对选料、拼配、压制、包装等各个环节进行改进，在保持沱茶传统色、香、味、形的基础上推陈出新。 On the basis of inheriting and developing the traditional craftsmanship of Yongchangxiang Xiaguan Tea Factory, we continue to explore and innovate, and improve the selection of materials, blending, pressing, packaging and other aspects, so as to keep the traditional color, aroma, taste and shape of Tuocha on the basis of innovation.

第二天，我在老板的陪同下去了下关，到终年积雪的苍山之麓和碧波荡漾的洱海之滨，品尝甘洌泉水，享受清风吹拂，观摩了茶园和茶叶生产车间，非常感慨。 The next day, I went to Xiaguan accompanied by the boss, to the foothills of the Cangshan Mountain and the blue waves of the Erhai coast of the year-round snow, taste the clean spring water, enjoy the breeze blowing, observe the tea garden and tea production workshop, very emotional.

回到住处，我选购了20个七子饼和百砣沱茶，还订购了百多斤沱茶，由老板直接发货到长沙。 Back at my place, I shopped for 20 qizi cakes and a hundred weights of tuocha, and also ordered more than a hundred pounds of tuocha to be shipped directly to Changsha by the owner.

老板另送我十个珍藏了20年的七子饼作为礼物，请我做她长沙普洱茶销售专店的顾问。 As a gift, the owner also gave me ten seven-ounce cakes, which she had treasured for 20 years, and asked me to be the consultant of her Changsha Puerh Tea Sales Shop.

回到长沙，我把随身带回的七子饼和沱茶分成20份，给朋友们送去，他们非常兴奋，常找我去同饮。 Back in Changsha, I brought back with me the Qizi cake and Tuocha divided into 20 copies, to give friends, they were very excited, often looking for me to drink with.

喜欢喝茶的人和对茶文化有一定了解的人，大都知道云南大理的下关沱茶。 People who like to drink tea and have a certain understanding of tea culture, most of them know the Yunnan Dali Xiaguan Tuocha.

如我等茶痴和寻茶人，长年在全国各地寻找茶叶，向往云南的大理，并不亚于喜欢旅游的人向往丽江一样。 Tea lovers and tea seekers such as myself, who have been searching for tea all over the country for years, yearn for Dali in Yunnan, no less than those who like to travel yearn for Lijiang.

我并非地道的背包客，只是长期在外行走而已。 I am not an authentic backpacker, just a long time walker.

为了寻找美食、美景，我浪迹天涯，把这当作自己的职业。 In search of food and beauty, I have traveled the world and made this my profession.

无论是去旅游还是进行美食考察，我都会兼顾两者的关系。 Whether I'm going on a trip or on a culinary expedition, I juggle the two.

在我的大部分旅程中，我会让美食与美景完美结合，构成一个整体，补充我出发时思考的不足。 On most of my trips, I'll have the perfect combination of food and beauty to form a whole that complements what I'm thinking about when I set out.

这几年，我去西南地区的时间比较多，无外乎是美食、茶叶、咖啡老三样，每次去都让我长途奔波、颠沛流离，受尽了苦头。 In the past few years, I've been going to the Southwest more often, and it's nothing more than the same old three things: food, tea, and coffee, and every time I go, it makes me travel long distances, uproot, and suffer.

现在只要有人召唤，我还是会乐呵呵地赶过去。 Now I still happily rush over whenever someone calls.

其中去云南的次数比较多，每次去云南，都会去大理，大理就像我的故土，到了云南，没有过家门还不入的道理。 Which go to Yunnan more often, every time you go to Yunnan, will go to Dali, Dali is like my hometown, to Yunnan, there is no over the family door is still not into the reason.

我老是去大理，别人问我的目的是什么？ I keep going to Dali and people ask me what my purpose is.

我说为了寻找一块性感的沱茶，他们觉得我很搞笑，太感性，很不理智。 When I said I was looking for a sexy piece of cuppa, they thought I was hilarious, too emotional and irrational.

沱茶在任何地方都可以买到，非要那么麻烦地跑到大理去购买吗？ Tuocha can be bought anywhere, do you have to go through all the trouble of traveling to Dali to purchase it?

对于这些论调，我不以为然，作为茶痴，我一直强调要亲历、亲见、亲尝。 I am not convinced by these arguments. As a tea nerd, I always emphasize the need to experience, see and taste for myself.

我喜欢沱茶，不去大理的下关，那就违背了我的品茶原则。 I love Tuocha and it would be against my tea tasting principles not to go to Xiaguan in Dali.

今年是我第二次去大理了。 This year was my second trip to Dali.

我还是为了那块沱茶而去，不是我家里没有沱茶喝了，而是心中的渴望，总有那种想储备一些沱茶度荒年的想法。 I still go for that tuocha, not that I don't have tuocha to drink at home, but the longing in my heart, there is always that idea that I want to stock up some tuocha for the wilderness years.

坐车到大理，我直接前往下关镇。 Taking the bus to Dali, I headed straight to the town of Xianguan.

到了下关，我没有联系沱茶厂家，而是在外面瞎逛。 When I got to Shimonoseki, I didn't contact the Tuocha manufacturers, but wandered around outside.

我也曾想：如果有缘分，我可以与沱茶偶遇。 I have also thought: if there is fate, I can have a chance encounter with Tuocha.

我的偶遇与那种以人为目的的猎艳偶遇有着本质的区别，艳遇是感观的欲望的追求，我的偶遇是理性的价值判断，需要用我的茶叶知识、审美眼光、嗅觉、手感等去识别。 My chance encounter with the kind of people with the purpose of the hunt for sex encounters has a fundamental difference, sex encounters is the pursuit of sensory desire, my chance encounter is a rational value judgment, need to use my knowledge of tea, aesthetic vision, sense of smell, feel, etc. to identify.

我多是在夜市和茶叶店里寻找沱茶，高档的茶往往能够散发它自身的气味，与其他茶完全区分开来。 I mostly look for tuocha in night markets and tea stores, where the premium tea tends to give off its own scent that completely distinguishes it from other teas.

我就像一个流浪汉一样流落在下关的街头巷尾，四处寻觅茶香，这种漫无目的的行走，往往让人无法理解。 I was like a vagabond roaming the streets and alleys of Shimonoseki, searching for the scent of tea, an aimless walk that is often incomprehensible.

我的寻访还是有收获的，我背着这些购买的沱茶，无论走到哪里，都与它们相伴，感受它们的芳香。 My search is still rewarding, and I carry these purchased tuocha on my back, wherever I go, with them, feeling their aroma.

我有时在想：我这哪是旅行，分明是背着沱茶去旅游。 I sometimes think: I'm not traveling, clearly is carrying Tuocha to travel.

虽然说走就走，也没有大家向往的那么浪漫和自由，要考虑到沱茶的感受和环境，要体谅沱茶的难处与尴尬。 Although said to go, but also not as romantic and free as we aspire to, to take into account the feelings of the Tuocha and the environment, to sympathize with the difficulties and embarrassment of the Tuocha.

这种旅行，我看的风景都是透过沱茶去看的。 On this kind of trip, I look at the scenery through the tuyere.

有一天傍晚，我在街边吃了一份洋芋饭，就去夜市寻觅沱茶。 One evening, I ate a yam rice on the street and went to the night market in search of tuocha.

我走了很远，也挑选了很多，都没有看到满意的沱茶。 I have traveled a long way and picked a lot, but I have not seen any satisfactory tuocha.

走到我不想走了，却发现一个摊点旁有人在争执。 I walked until I didn't want to go any further, but then I noticed someone arguing by one of the stalls.

我走过去一看，才知道他们几个人拿着块沱茶在讨价还价。 I walked over and realized that a few of them were haggling over a block of tuocha.

我也想凑过去瞅瞅，弄清楚到底是块怎样的沱茶。 I also wanted to go over and take a look and figure out what kind of cuotte it was.

我接过沱茶，发现它的包装纸是20世纪80年代的黄色粗纸张，包装没有撕开，他们犹豫不决。 I took the tuo tea and noticed that it came in a 1980s yellow coarse paper wrapper, the package was not torn and they hesitated.

我接过沱茶掂了掂，是一斤一块的沱茶，顺着包装纸的缝隙闻到茶叶的味道，茶味非常纯正。 I took the Tuocha weighing, is a catty piece of Tuocha, along the gap in the wrapping paper smell the flavor of tea, tea flavor is very pure.

根据我的经验判断，我告诉他们：这应该是中叶种的嫩叶，大概产于20世纪80年代前期，品质非常好，市面上很少见，属于私家制造，不是机械生产。 Judging from my experience, I told them: this should be the young leaves of the medium-leaf species, probably produced in the early 1980s, of very good quality, rarely seen on the market, and belonging to private manufacturing, not mechanical production.

此话一出，拿沱茶的汉子马上从我手里夺过茶叶，按着摊主的喊价付了钱。 As soon as these words came out, the man with the tuo tea immediately took the tea from my hand and paid the stall owner's shouted price.

我仔细挑选摊位上的沱茶，看中两个小块，属于一两一块的，应该与刚才买走的属于同一批茶。 I carefully select the booth Tuocha, fancy two small pieces, belonging to one or two a piece, should be with just bought away belong to the same batch of tea.

我想找块大的沱茶，闻了一遍都没有找到，就拿着两块小沱茶问老板价格。 I wanted to find a large piece of tuo tea, smelled all over the place did not find, so I took two small tuo tea and asked the boss the price.

我抬头才发现老板是位十七八岁的白族姑娘，长得极其清秀，水汪汪的眼睛很有灵气。 I looked up and realized that the owner was a seventeen or eighteen year old white girl, extremely good looking with watery eyes.

我欣然应允，约定第二天同去，自己又去夜市闲逛。 I readily agreed to go with them the next day, and went back to the night market to hang out by myself.

第二天早上，我收拾完，来到大堂，那个白族女孩的车已经在门口等着了。 The next morning, I finished packing and went to the lobby where the white girl's car was already waiting at the door.

上车后，她告诉我她叫茵茵。 When we got in the car, she told me her name was Umbra.

半个多小时的车程，我们就到了挖色镇。 A little over half an hour's drive brought us to the town of Dig Color.

下车后，我们没有去她家，她先带我去洱海边游玩。 When we got off the bus, we didn't go to her house, she took me on a trip to the Erhai Sea first.

我们看了几个景点，才去茵茵家，她的爷爷已经准备了饭菜，有白族土八碗：红粬米红肉炖、蛋糊油炸酥肉、扣蒸酱油蜂蜜五花三线肉千张、红薯粉蒸肉、猪头猪肝猪肉卤干香、肉茸蛋屑白扁豆、木耳豆腐下水蛋丝菜梗杂碎、炸猪条竹笋。 We saw a few sights before heading to Yin Yin's house, where her grandfather had already prepared the meal, which consisted of the eight bowls of Bai Tu: red other rice and red meat stew, fried crispy pork in egg batter, buckled and steamed with soy sauce and honey five-flower and three-stranded pork thousand sheets, sweet potato vermicelli with steamed pork, pork head and liver and pork marinated in dried incense, minced meat and egg crumbled white lentils, wood ear and tofu with watery egg shreds and mixed vegetable stems, and deep-fried pork strips and bamboo shoots.

还有我期盼已久的黄壳砂锅鲤鱼、乳扇、生皮等美食。 There was also the yellow-shelled casserole carp, milky fan, and rawhide that I had been waiting for.

我与妻子来大理时曾吃过一顿白族土八碗，但没有吃过砂锅鱼、乳扇、生皮，这次却无意吃到了，算是了却了我的心愿。 When my wife and I came to Dali, we had a meal of Bai Tu Ba Bowls, but not fish in casserole, milk fan, or raw skin, but this time we unintentionally ate it, which was a fulfillment of my wish.

吃完饭后，茵茵的爷爷与我聊起他的沱茶经。 After dinner, Umbra's grandfather and I talked about his Tuocha experience.

1941年下关茶厂创立时，他才十多岁，为第一批制茶的学徒工。 When the Shimonoseki Tea Factory was founded in 1941, he was only in his teens and was one of the first apprentices to make tea.

20世纪80年代初，他在退休前几年就安排了自己的生活，种植了一片大茶园，开始在家里做沱茶。 In the early 1980s, a few years before he retired, he organized his life, planted a large tea plantation, and began to make tuocha at home.

家人采茶叶，他利用晚上的时间制作，每年做两三百斤沱茶，用茶厂废弃的边角料粗纸包装，储存在一个干燥的地方。 His family picks tea leaves and he uses the evening hours to make them, making two to three hundred pounds of Tuocha each year, wrapped in rough paper from the discarded edges of the tea factory and stored in a dry place.

他现在九十岁了，想寻找有缘人，分享他的沱茶，才把自己做的沱茶拿出来交给孙女到夜市上出售，卖给喜欢沱茶的游客。 He is now ninety years old, and wants to find a kindred spirit, to share his Tuocha, before he took out the Tuocha he made and gave it to his granddaughter to sell at the night market, to sell it to the tourists who like Tuocha.

这些沱茶的卖价比较高，一斤一块的沱茶在两千元以上。 The selling price of these Tuocha is relatively high, a catty piece of Tuocha in more than two thousand dollars.

他又要茵茵把1985年到1989年间的沱茶各抱两坨出来，给我闻闻茶叶的味道。 He also asked Yin Yin to hold out two piles of each of the Tuocha from 1985 to 1989 to give me a whiff of the tea leaves.

我逐一品味、鉴别，区别各自的茶叶和茶味。 I savor and identify each one, distinguishing between their respective teas and flavors.

他给我讲了这些茶叶的故事，里面不乏旧时风花雪月，我都一一记在心里。 He told me stories about these teas, which were full of old-time flavor, and I took them all to heart.

离开时，茵茵的爷爷硬是要把这十块沱茶赠送给我，让我分享他的劳动果实。 When he left, Yin Yin's grandfather insisted on gifting me the ten pieces of tuocha so that I could share the fruits of his labor.

我收下了这份巨礼，非常感激他。 I accepted this huge gift and was very grateful to him.

这次大理之行，我收获了这些沱茶，真是满载而归。 This trip to Dali was a full house as I was rewarded with these tuo teas.

随着普洱茶的普及和爱茶者对普洱茶的喜欢，大部分茶客都见过或者喝过七子饼茶，七子饼茶慢慢成为茶客们待客的大礼节。 With the popularity of Pu-erh tea and the love of tea lovers for Pu-erh tea, most of the tea drinkers have seen or drank the seven son cake tea, which has slowly become a great gift for tea drinkers to treat their guests.

在我十几年的品茶、寻茶生涯中，不知道喝过多少七子饼茶了，但是让我记忆犹新的就那么两三次。 In my more than ten years of tea tasting and tea hunting, I don't know how many seven son cake teas I've had, but the ones that I remember vividly are just two or three times.

2009年夏，我与妻子到昆明办事，住在关上的夜市旁。 In the summer of 2009, my wife and I traveled to Kunming on business and stayed next to the night market on the Pass.

我们的目的很简单，第一次到昆明旅游，希望多品尝些昆明的美食，也好多了解些昆明的夜市风情。 Our purpose was simple, we were traveling to Kunming for the first time and wanted to taste more of the city's food and learn more about the city's night market.

我们安顿好后，已经是下午五点左右。 It was about 5pm when we settled in.

我们在夜市转了一圈，除了美食，这里摆摊最多的是销售茶饼的，其中仿匾额和仿古钱币的茶饼最多，偶尔也有七子饼。 We took a look around the night market, and apart from the food, the most popular stalls here were those selling tea cakes, with imitation plaques and imitation ancient coins being the most prevalent, as well as the occasional sevens cake.

我在来昆明的火车上，一直在想一件事情。 I was thinking about something on the train to Kunming.

我到昆明办事，几个同事都知道我去昆明，作为同事间的礼尚往来，我应该给他们带点什么礼品或者手信回去呢？ I went to Kunming to do business, a few colleagues know that I go to Kunming, as a courtesy between colleagues, I should bring them some gifts or souvenirs back?

在夜市上见到这些茶饼，我突然有了主意，那就给同事们带些普洱茶回去，这些仿匾额和仿钱币的茶饼都可以作为礼品。 When I saw these tea cakes at the night market, I suddenly had an idea, so I should bring some Pu'er tea back to my colleagues, and these imitation plaques and imitation coins can be used as gifts.

我把自己的想法与妻子说了，她也觉得可以。 I spoke to my wife about my idea and she thought it was okay.

但是我当时对普洱茶不甚了解，不过我知道，很多东西是可以临时学习的。 But I didn't know much about pu-erh tea at the time, but I know that a lot can be learned on the fly.

最好学习的方法，对于我来说莫过于地摊了。 There is no better way to learn, for me, than the ground floor.

地摊虽然鱼龙混杂，但是跟他们学习，很快就能掌握我需要的知识。 Groundlings are a mixed bag, but learning from them quickly gave me the knowledge I needed.

我需要了解的是普洱茶的品种、优劣、价格，而地摊主就可以提供这些，询问他们就知道了品种和价格，讨价还价间就能知道质量。 What I need to know is the varieties, merits, and prices of Puerh tea, and the stallholders can provide these. Ask them and you'll know the varieties and prices, and you'll know the quality between bargains.

关上这个夜市，有很多摆地摊卖普洱茶的。 Off this night market, there are a lot of stalls selling pu-erh tea.

我没有其他事，就一个地摊一个地摊地问过去。 I had nothing else to do, so I asked my way through one floor stall at a time.

他们的价格、货源、型号、品质、利润空间、销售方式、服务态度等都不同，但是茶叶的质量、价格体系、利润范围、进货渠道等都差不多。 Their prices, sources, models, quality, profit margins, sales methods, and service attitudes are all different, but the quality of the tea, the price system, the range of profits, and the channels of purchase are similar.

看得多了，自然认识的产品也多了，真实的价格也大概知道，价钱也好把握。 See more, naturally recognize the product is also more, the real price is also probably know, the price is also good to grasp.

一个晚上，我走在这条几百米长的夜市街上，看了十多个摆普洱茶的地摊，看了二十多种产品。 One night, I walked down this several hundred meter long night market street and looked at more than a dozen stalls displaying Pu'er tea and saw more than twenty kinds of products.

我不敢贪便宜，只是买了几块火柴盒大小的普洱茶砖，拿来自己在宾馆里喝，也好了解一下普洱茶的茶叶品质。 I didn't dare to be cheap, I just bought a few matchbox-sized Puerh tea bricks and used them to drink by myself in the hotel, so that I could understand the quality of Puerh tea leaves.

第二天，我们白天去呈贡办事，到晚上才回到昆明。 The next day, we went to Chenggong to run errands during the day and didn't get back to Kunming until the evening.

我与妻子吃过饭之后，又去逛街。 My wife and I had dinner and then went shopping.

在昆明，街头巷尾到处都是茶叶店，往往茶叶和烟草在一起卖。 In Kunming, the streets and alleys are full of tea stores, often selling tea and tobacco together.

我想做到货比三家，找到物美价廉的茶叶，就在宾馆周边的街巷找茶叶店。 I wanted to do some comparison shopping and find good quality tea at a good price, so I looked for tea stores in the streets around the hotel.