南宁荷韵翻译公司

作为一名茶叶科技工作者，我去过国内外不少产好茶的名山大川。

As a tea technician, I have been to many famous mountains and rivers at home and abroad that produce good tea.

纵观中外，可以断言，今天是一个属于中国茶的时代！还从来没有一个时代人们如此看重茶的健康与文化属性。

Looking at China and abroad, it can be asserted that today is an era of Chinese tea! There has never been a time when people valued the health and cultural attributes of tea so highly.

吴锡端先生原是中国茶叶流通协会秘书长，现在任职于祥源茶业。

Mr. Wu Xiduan was formerly the Secretary General of the China Tea Distribution Association and now works for Xiangyuan Tea.

他有丰富的在茶行业一线调研和观察分析的经验，是一位实干型茶叶专家；而周滨女士是中国茶业内的知名媒体人、茶文化作家，有对产区和产业的独到认识。

He is a practical tea expert with rich experience in front-line research and observation and analysis in the tea industry, while Ms. Zhou Bin is a well-known media person and tea culture writer in the Chinese tea industry, with unique knowledge of the production area and industry.

他们著作颇丰，能够联手梳理中国白茶的发展历程，这既是读者的幸运，也为我们科研工作者提供了参考，让中国的茶科学和茶文化普及之路走得更顺畅、更长远。

They have written a lot of books, and they are able to work together to sort out the development history of Chinese white tea, which is not only the luck of the readers, but also provides a reference for our researchers, so that the road of tea science and tea culture popularization in China will be smoother and more long-lasting.

提到中国白茶，不得不说的就是它的自然与健康，因为白茶是一种加工过程看似简单，实则因其天然而奥妙无穷的茶。

When it comes to Chinese white tea, one has to talk about its naturalness and health, because white tea is a tea whose processing seems simple, but is actually mysterious due to its naturalness.

我是自2011年开始，正式研究白茶与人类健康命题的。

I have been formally researching the white tea and human health proposition since 2011.

在那一年，福鼎市政府邀请我们团队启动“福鼎白茶的保健养生功效研究”项目，同时国家茶叶产业技术体系深加工研究室确定了“白茶的保健作用机理”研究项目。

In that year, the Fuding municipal government invited our team to start the project of "Research on the health care effect of Fuding white tea", and at the same time, the Research Laboratory of Deep Processing of the National Tea Industry Technology System determined the research project of "Health Care Mechanism of White Tea".

我们研究项目组采用最先进的现代仪器分析技术，在对白茶品质与功能成分进行全面系统分析的基础上，构建生物模型和细胞模型，从化学物质组学、细胞生物学和分子生物学角度上探讨了白茶的美容抗衰老、抗炎清火、降脂减重、调降血糖、调控尿酸、保护肝脏、抵御病毒等保健养生功效及其作用机理。

Our research team used the most advanced modern instrumental analysis technology, on the basis of a comprehensive and systematic analysis of the quality and functional components of white tea, constructed biological models and cellular models, and explored the beauty and anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, anti-weight loss, blood glucose regulation, uric acid regulation, liver protection, virus protection, and other health care effects of white tea and its mechanism of action in the context of chemical composition, cellular biology, and molecular biology. The mechanism of action of white tea was investigated from the perspectives of

研究结果表明，常饮白茶确实有如下作用：白茶具有显著的自由基清除能力，可有效抵御人们因不良环境或生活习惯引起的皮肤细胞衰老，具有较好的美容抗衰老作用。

Research results show that drinking white tea does have the following effects: white tea has a significant free radical scavenging ability, can effectively resist people due to poor environmental or lifestyle habits caused by skin cell aging, has a better beauty and anti-aging effect.

同时，对各种辐射导致的皮肤细胞衰老具有较强的抑制作用。

At the same time, it has a strong inhibitory effect on the aging of skin cells caused by various types of radiation.

白茶可有效调节人体糖脂代谢，激活低密度脂蛋白受体基因，调节细胞的胰岛素分泌，改善胰岛素抵抗，有效调降血脂和血糖水平。

White tea can effectively regulate human glucose and lipid metabolism, activate the LDL receptor gene, regulate cellular insulin secretion, improve insulin resistance, and effectively regulate blood lipids and blood glucose levels.

陈年老白茶可有效提高肝脏的抗氧化能力，修复人们因过量饮酒引起的肝损伤。

Aged white tea can effectively improve the antioxidant capacity of the liver and repair the liver damage caused by people's excessive alcohol consumption.

白茶可有效调节人体免疫机能，增强人们抵御病毒的能力。

White tea can effectively regulate the body's immune function and enhance people's ability to resist viruses.

白茶可有效调控人体免疫因子和炎症因子，具有明显的抗炎清火功效，且陈年老白茶表现尤为突出。

White tea can effectively regulate the body's immune factors and inflammatory factors, with obvious anti-inflammatory fire effects, and aged old White tea performance is particularly prominent.

陈年老白茶可有效调控肠道微生物种群分布结构，增加双歧杆菌、乳酸杆菌等有益微生物数，降低大肠杆菌、金色葡萄球菌等有害微生物数，具有较好的调理肠胃的作用。

Aged white tea can effectively regulate the distribution structure of intestinal microbial population, increase the number of beneficial microorganisms such as bifidobacteria, lactobacillus, and reduce the number of harmful microorganisms such as Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, which has a better gastrointestinal conditioning effect.

茶是一种简单易得的饮品，也是中国人长期以来无论从精神还是物质层面都极其认可的饮品。

Tea is a simple and easily accessible beverage that has long been recognized by the Chinese people on both a spiritual and material level.

而中国白茶，又因这个时代的人们对健康、对自然发自内心的呼唤，在几年间犹如一匹黑马异军突起，其曝光率和知名度大幅提升。

And Chinese white tea, because of the people of this era of health, the call of nature from the heart, in a few years like a dark horse surged, its exposure and popularity increased dramatically.

福鼎白茶甚至创造了一个奇迹一白茶从默默无闻到骤然火爆，它点燃了消费者的热情。

Fuding white tea has even created a miracle - white tea has gone from obscurity to sudden fire, which has ignited the enthusiasm of consumers.

总之，我期望天下所有爱茶人，能够怀着愉悦的心情，品尝和感受茶的色香味形之美妙和魅力，通过茶中富含的有益活性成分而远离亚健康。

In conclusion, I hope that all tea lovers in the world can taste and feel the beauty and charm of tea's color, aroma, flavor and shape with a happy heart, and stay away from sub-health through the beneficial active ingredients contained in tea.

这是多么令人快乐的事情！近两百年间有关中国白茶的故事，似乎总是有些朦胧。

What a joy it is! The story of Chinese white tea over the last two hundred years has always seemed a little hazy.

如果按学者陈椽教授对中国六大茶类的分类方法看待白茶，它实在是一个年轻的品类。

If according to the scholar Prof. Chen rafter on the six major tea categories of China's classification method of white tea, it is really a young category.

白茶初起时，不过是乡野之物，它本性淡泊质朴，曾被民间作为去火消炎、治麻疹的良药。

When white tea first started, it was just a countryside product, it was simple and unadorned in nature, and had been used by the folk as a good medicine for removing fire and inflammation, and for treating measles.

细说起来，白茶是中国茶叶家族中制作最简单也最接近天然的茶类，它不炒不揉，以萎凋为其核心制作工艺。

In detail, white tea is the simplest and closest to natural tea in the Chinese tea family, which is not stir-fried or kneaded, with withering as its core production process.

在加工过程中阳光与风的参与、微产区与小气候的融合、人的经验与技艺的演绎，造就了它“淡泊清雅、极利身心”的特点和保健性。

The participation of sunlight and wind, the integration of micro-production zones and micro-climate, and the interpretation of human experience and skills during the processing process have created its characteristics of "lightness and purity, extremely beneficial to the body and mind" and its health properties.

我们品饮白茶那淡淡的茶香。

We sip the light flavor of white tea.

一口白茶入口时，隔绝了都市丛林中的种种纷扰，甚至抵御了雾霾。

When you take a sip of white tea, you are cut off from the chaos of the urban jungle and even from the haze.

白茶对呼吸道的保护作用，近年来屡现于各种研究报告和新闻调查中。

The protective effect of white tea on the respiratory tract has appeared in various studies and news polls in recent years.

这对消费者来说，是一种福音。

This is a boon to consumers.

曾几何时，白茶被人与绿茶混为一谈，少有人清楚白茶的起源、品种、种植区域、制作工艺、品饮技巧、文化背景以及市场现状。

Once upon a time, white tea was confused with green tea, and few people were clear about the origin of white tea, varieties, planting areas, production process, drinking skills, cultural background and market status.

这个时代有许多值得记录的事，也有许多可爱的人，是他们合力将白茶推到大众眼前，使白茶成为人人都能消费的健康饮品，让白茶发挥了它的根本作用，又让白茶成为大众话题，进入万户千家，这是极可贵的。

There are many things worth recording in this era, and there are also many lovely people, it is their joint efforts to push white tea to the public eye, so that white tea has become a healthy drink that everyone can consume, so that white tea plays its fundamental role, and so that white tea has become a popular topic into thousands of households, which is extremely valuable.

为此，我们将这种种可爱收录其中，成为将来回首往事的见证，也让大众了解中国白茶所走过的道路。

For this reason, we have included all these loveliness as a witness to look back in the future, and for the public to understand the path that Chinese white tea has traveled.

唯愿你，喝茶长精神，知己千杯少，你我饮杯中的白茶，记录中国白茶的故事。

Only wish you, drink tea long spirit, confidant a thousand cups less, you and I drink cups of white tea, record the story of Chinese white tea.

太姥山中的春茶可就在福建闽北、闽东的茶商们赚钱赚得不亦乐乎、几大工夫红茶在国际市场上的销售量节节攀高时，一些不那么和谐的声音已经出现了：由于长期以来，在中国和西方（主要是英国）的贸易往来中，中国处于出超地位（指一国在一定时期内出口贸易总额大于进口贸易总额），这引起了通过工业革命强大起来的英国的强烈不满。

Spring tea in Taimushan But just as the tea traders in Fujian's northern and eastern Fujian Province were making money and enjoying themselves, and the sales volume of several major gongfu black teas in the international market was rising, some discordant voices had already appeared: because for a long time, in the trade between China and the West (mainly Great Britain), China was in the position of outstripping the rest of the world (meaning that the total amount of export trade of a country was greater than the total amount of import trade in a certain period of time), which aroused strong resentment from Great Britain, which had become powerful through the Industrial Revolution, and which was the only one that had the power to make money. This aroused the strong resentment of Britain, which had been strengthened by the Industrial Revolution.

有一组数据可以说明英国的担忧：从1685年到1759年，在这70多年的时间里，茶叶已经成了中国出口到欧洲的最大宗货物，其总值占了欧洲从中国采购商品的一半以上。

One set of data illustrates Britain's concern: in the seventy years from 1685 to 1759, tea had become the largest Chinese export to Europe, accounting for more than half of all European purchases from China.

而其中最大的买主是英国人，他们采购茶叶的数量从每年8万多磅增加到269万磅，增加了30多倍。

And one of the biggest buyers was the British, whose purchases of tea increased more than 30 times from more than 80,000 pounds to 2.69 million pounds per year.

在1764年，中国出口到欧洲的货物总值364万两白银，其中，英国人购买了170万两白银的货物，占46.7%；而整个欧洲运往中国的货物总值为191万两白银，其中英国所运占63.3%，为121万两。

In 1764, the total value of goods exported from China to Europe was 3.64 million taels of silver, of which the British purchased 1.7 million taels of silver, or 46.7%; while the total value of goods shipped from Europe to China was 1.91 million taels of silver, of which the British accounted for 63.3%, or 1.21 million taels.

（陈尚胜《闭关与开放：中国封建晚期对外关系研究》）在大多数的中国人还满足于自给自足、自耕自织的农业社会状态时，英国人则煞费心机地想把自己生产的现代化纺织品、钢铁产品和其他工业制成品卖给中国（因当时中国人口已达世界第一），结果消费者反应冷淡。

(Chen Shangsheng, "Closure and Opening: A Study of China's Foreign Relations in the Late Feudal Period") While the majority of the Chinese were still content with an agrarian society of self-sufficiency and self-cultivation, the British tried very hard to sell their modern textiles, iron and steel, and other manufactured goods to China (which by that time was the world's most populous nation), but the response of the consumers was lukewarm.

而中国的乾隆皇帝对英国人的想法和处境也不关心，因为在他眼里，世界上除了大清国，就只有蛮夷小国，它们根本不足为虑。

The Chinese Emperor Qianlong did not care about the thoughts and situation of the British, because in his eyes there were only small barbaric countries in the world, apart from the Qing Dynasty, and they were nothing to worry about.

为了了解中国社会的真实情况，为了知道怎样才能赚到中国人的钱，乾隆五十八年（1793年）夏天，英国派出第一个访华使团到中国，成员多达七百多人。

In order to understand the real situation of Chinese society and to know how to earn Chinese money, in the summer of 1793, the British sent the first mission to China with more than 700 members.

他们由外交官、学者、医生、画家、乐师、技师、士兵等人员组成，带队的是国王的亲戚、精通国际事务的外交家马戛尔尼勋爵。

They consisted of diplomats, scholars, doctors, painters, musicians, technicians, soldiers, etc. They were led by Lord Macartney, a relative of the King and a diplomat with a good knowledge of international affairs.

英国国王想和中国皇帝聊聊，想通过正式外交关系的建立，让中国的外贸体制更有利于英国。

The King of England wanted to talk to the Emperor of China to make China's foreign trade system more favorable to England through the establishment of formal diplomatic relations.

可对于这个访华团来说，这是一次十分不愉快的访问：经过西方启蒙思想的洗礼，追求“平等”、“自由”的英国人不愿向大清皇帝行“三跪九叩”之礼，这让乾隆极其吃惊而且非常不悦；而对于英国人费尽心思带来的、代表当时西方先进科技和生产力的各种新奇产品，包括天体运行仪、地球仪、气压计、蒸汽机、棉纺机、有减震装置的马车、追击炮、卡宾枪甚至是热气球等，中国人看不懂、不会用，也不感兴趣。

But for this delegation to China, this is a very unpleasant visit: after the baptism of the Western Enlightenment, the pursuit of "equality", "freedom" of the British people are not willing to perform the "three kneeling and nine kowtowing" rituals to the Emperor of the Qing Dynasty "This made Qianlong extremely surprised and very unhappy; and for the British took great pains to bring, on behalf of the advanced technology and productivity of the West at the time of a variety of novelty products, including the celestial orbiter, globe, barometer, steam engine, cotton spinning machine, shock-absorbing device of the carriage, the pursuit of artillery, carabiners, and even hot-air balloons, etc., the Chinese people can not understand, will not use, and not interested in. The Chinese could not understand, could not use, and were not interested in them.

不难想见，在这样尴尬的情形下，皇帝虽然以完美的风度接见了外国人，但却拒绝了对方的所有要求。

It is not difficult to imagine that in such an awkward situation, the emperor, although he received the foreigner with perfect manners, refused all his requests.

英国人悻悻而归，但他们同时看清楚了一这是一个思想和工业水平还停留在中世纪的国家，由于闭关锁国造成其对国际政治格局几乎不了解，所以军事力量也很落后。

The British returned unhappy, but at the same time they saw clearly that this was a country whose intellectual and industrial level was still in the Middle Ages, and whose military power was backward due to the fact that it had little understanding of the international political scene because of the closed-door policy.

在这样一种奇幻、错位的对话体系和世界贸易格局下，一场为争夺财富资源而一触即发的战争，已经隐隐在即了。

Under such a fantastical and dislocated dialog system and world trade pattern, a war for wealth and resources is imminent.

绿雪芽茶母树而英国人对中国市场的觊觎还没有完，他们希望掌握中国茶叶的核心机密，扭转中国茶一统世界的霸主地位，因此派出了植物学家罗伯特・福琼来到中国。

The British were not finished coveting the Chinese market; they wanted to get to the heart of Chinese tea and reverse its dominance of the world, so they sent a botanist, Robert Fauchon, to China.

当时的英国驻印度总督甚至专门给他发了一纸命令：“你必须从中国盛产茶叶的地区挑选出最好的茶树和茶树种子，然后由你负责将茶树和茶树种子从中国运送到加尔各答，再从加尔各答运到喜马拉雅山。

The British Governor-General in India at that time even gave him a special order: "You must select the best tea trees and tea seeds from the tea-producing regions of China, and then you will be responsible for transporting the tea trees and tea seeds from China to Calcutta and then from Calcutta to the Himalayas.

你还必须尽一切努力，招聘一些有经验的种茶人和茶叶加工者，没有他们，我们将无法开展在喜马拉雅山的茶叶生产。

You must also make every effort to recruit a number of experienced tea growers and tea processors, without whom we will not be able to start tea production in the Himalayas.

”于是在1848年到1860年间，福琼四次入华，他剃掉头发戴上假辫子，乔装打扮成中国人的模样，还学会了说中国话，在重点茶区的各个茶园活动。

"So between 1848 and 1860, Fourchon made four trips to China, shaving his hair and putting on a false braid, disguising himself as a Chinese man, learning to speak Chinese, and moving around the tea plantations in the key tea regions.

对这件事，英国作家托比・马斯格雷夫在其著作的《植物猎人》中做了详细说明：“福琼从衢州和浙江的其他地区成功地采集到了茶树种子。

The British author Toby Musgrave elaborated on this event in his book The Plant Hunter: "Fuqiong successfully collected tea tree seeds from Quzhou and other parts of Zhejiang.

他还从宁波地区、舟山和武夷山采集了标本，负责将23892棵幼株及大约17000棵幼苗运到喜马拉雅山山脚下，同时安排8位中国茶工携带工具一同前往。

He also collected specimens from the Ningbo area, Zhoushan and Wuyi Mountains, and was responsible for transporting 23,892 young plants and about 17,000 seedlings to the foothills of the Himalayas, arranging for eight Chinese tea workers to go along with their tools.

不久，在印度的阿萨姆邦和锡金邦，茶园陆续涌现。

Soon, tea gardens sprang up in Assam and Sikkim in India.

到了19世纪下半叶，茶叶成了印度北部最主要的出口商品之一。

 By the second half of the 19th century, tea became one of northern India's leading export commodities.

”西方人喜好喝红茶，所以从中国盗运的种子都被拿到其殖民地去种植，几乎都是红茶，而中国福建生产的红茶这时面对着生产成本远低于国内，因此价格也低得多的印度、锡兰（斯里兰卡）的红茶的冲击，一筹莫展。

"Westerners preferred black tea, so the seeds stolen from China were taken to their colonies to be planted, almost all of which were black tea, and the black tea produced in Fujian, China, was then faced with the onslaught of Indian and Ceylon (Sri Lanka) black tea, which was far cheaper to produce than in China, and therefore much less expensive.

1860年，中国还是国际市场上的红茶主要输出国，到了1893年，英国红茶市场的份额已有一半被印度、锡兰的红茶取代；而另一方面，国内在1875年创制成功的安徽祁门红茶也异军突起，挤占了不少闽红茶的市场。

In 1860, China is still the main exporter of black tea on the international market, by 1893, half of the share of the British black tea market has been replaced by India, Ceylon's black tea; on the other hand, the success of the domestic production of Anhui Qimen black tea in 1875, also surged forward, crowding out a lot of Min black tea market.

这时的福建茶商，终于看到危机，他们决定另辟蹊径，大力推进白茶生产。

At this time the Fujian tea merchants, finally see the crisis, they decided to find another way to vigorously promote the production of white tea.

这时候，无论是闽北的政和，还是闽东的福鼎茶商，都对白毫银针的销售寄予了希望。

At this time, both Zhenghe in northern Fujian, and Fuding tea traders in eastern Fujian, have pinned their hopes on the sales of Baihao Silver Needle.

福鼎东海之滨的太姥山，历来被看做福鼎白茶的祖庭。

Fuding's Taimushan, on the coast of the East China Sea, has always been regarded as the ancestral home of Fuding white tea.

而太姥山鸿雪洞顶的“绿雪芽”古茶树则被认为是福鼎白茶的原始“母株”，是研制白茶的重要母本。

The "Green Snow Bud" ancient tea tree at the top of Hongxue Cave in Taimushan Mountain is considered to be the original "mother plant" of Fuding White Tea, which is an important parent for the development of white tea.

要说当年的福鼎人对“白毫银针”的认识，用清代周亮工在《闽小记》中的一句话就能概括：“绿雪芽，今呼白毫。

To say that the Fuding people of the year on the "White Hair Silver Needle" knowledge, with the Qing Dynasty Zhou Liang Gong in the "Min Xiaoji" in a sentence can be summarized: "green snow buds, now called White Hair.

色香俱绝，而尤以鸿雪洞为最。

Color and aroma of the best, but especially to the Hongxue hole for the most.

功同犀角，为麻疹圣药。

It has the same function as rhinoceros horn, and is the holy medicine for measles.

运销国外，价与金埒。

It is shipped abroad at a price comparable to that of gold subdivided.

”“价与金埒”就是与黄金同价，由此看来，白毫银针不但是民间养生保健的一种良药，而且其价值还得到了国际市场的认可。

""Price and gold enclosure" is the same price as gold, so it seems that the white hair silver needle is not only a folk health care of a good medicine, and its value has been recognized by the international market.

白毫银针第一次出口是在1891年，在1910年以后开始畅销欧美。

White Hair Silver Needle was first exported in 1891 and began to sell well in Europe and the United States after 1910.

当年，道光皇帝在洋人压迫下含泪签署了《中英五口通商章程》，条约中将福州和厦门划为了出口口岸，这极大地促进了白毫银针的出口。

In that year, the Daoguang Emperor signed the "Sino-British Five-Port Treaty" in tears under the pressure of the foreigners, which designated Fuzhou and Xiamen as the ports of export, which greatly promoted the export of Baihao Silver Needle.

到了清末民初时，以白毫银针为代表的中国白茶，已经源源不绝地远销欧亚大陆共39个国家和地区，也使得一大批有头脑的福建茶商成为当地巨贾。

By the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Civil War, the Chinese white tea represented by the White Hair Silver Needle has been exported to a total of 39 countries and regions in Eurasia in an uninterrupted manner, which also made a large number of smart tea merchants in Fujian become local tycoons.

而因为福鼎大白茶的抗旱抗寒性强、扦插繁殖力强、成活率高，20世纪60年代后，福建、浙江、湖南、贵州、四川、江西、广西、湖北、安徽和江苏等省区曾大面积栽培福鼎大白茶，用于制作红茶、绿茶、白茶等各种茶类，掀起了一股如火如荼的生产浪潮。

Because of the strong drought and cold resistance of Fuding large white tea, strong propagation of cuttings, high survival rate, after the 1960s, Fujian, Zhejiang, Hunan, Guizhou, Sichuan, Jiangxi, Guangxi, Hubei, Anhui, Jiangsu and other provinces and districts had a large area of cultivation of Fuding large white tea, used to make black tea, green tea, white tea and other kinds of tea, set off a wave of production in full swing.

如前所述，在1885年时，迫于国内外市场形势的压力，福鼎人开始用福鼎大白茶制作白毫银针，到1910年出口后，风头一时无二。

As mentioned earlier, in 1885, under the pressure of the domestic and international market situation, Fuding people started to make Baihao Yinzhen with Fuding Dabai tea, which was exported in 1910, and became popular for a while.

可是突如其来的第一次世界大战打乱了这种格局，很多人开始想办法扩大白茶的市场。

However, the sudden onset of World War I disrupted this pattern, and many people began to find ways to expand the market for white tea.

从福鼎茶业开始兴盛之日起，当地渐渐形成了一些颇有影响力的茶商世家，其中的吴（吴观楷）、蔡（蔡德教）、梅（梅伯珍）、袁（袁子卿）四家是威望最高的。

From the day when the Fuding tea industry began to flourish, some influential tea merchant families were gradually formed in the area, among which Wu (Wu Guan Kai), Cai (Cai De Jiao), Mei (Mei Bo Zhen), Yuan (Yuan Zi Qing) were the four most prestigious ones.

在道光二十二年（1842年）五口通商后，福鼎茶叶交易中心白琳生产的“白琳工夫”红茶、“白毫银针”白茶以及“白毛猴”、“莲心”等绿茶，每年满载商船，畅销国内外。

 After the opening of five ports for trade in 1842, the Fuding Tea Trade Center, Bailin, produced "Bailin Koufu" black tea, "Baihao Yinzhen" white tea, and "Baihao Monkey" green tea, and "Lianxin" green tea, which were sold well both at home and abroad every year on board the merchant ships, "Lianxin" and other green teas produced by Bai Lin Tea Trading Center, which were loaded with merchant ships and sold well both at home and abroad every year.

梅伯珍，字步祥，号筱溪，又号鼎魁，出生于清光绪元年（1875年），本是福鼎县点头镇柏柳村一个富裕之家的幼子，也是福鼎近代茶叶史上最著名的茶商之一。

Mei Bozhen, character Buxiang, No. Xiaoxi, also known as Dingkui, was born in the first year of Guangxu in Qing Dynasty (1875), originally the youngest son of a wealthy family in Bailiu Village, Nodding Town, Fuding County, and one of the most famous tea merchants in the history of tea in Fuding in modern times.

梅伯珍少年的时候，家道中落，后来父母又相继去世，他最终走上了贩茶为生的道路。

When Mei Bozhen was a young man, his family fell into disgrace, and his parents died one after another, so he eventually started selling tea to make a living.

在20世纪初期，梅伯珍的茶叶生意一度发展得很顺利，他先后得到了白琳棠园茶商邵维羡、马玉记老板和福茂春茶栈主人的信任，受邀合伙经营茶庄。

At the beginning of the 20th century, Mei Bozhen's tea business developed smoothly for a time, and he successively gained the trust of Shao Weixian, a tea merchant in Bai Lin Tong Yuan, the owner of Ma Yuji and the owner of Fumao Chun Tea Stacks, who were invited to run the tea estate in partnership.

这段经历在梅伯珍晚年的自传《筱溪陈情书》里，做了详细的说明。

This experience is described in detail in Mei Bozhen's later autobiography, Shinshi Chenxue (A Letter of Love from Shinshi).

就在他踌躇满志地准备大干一番时，第一次世界大战爆发，导致从1918年至1920年连续三年的茶叶生意惨淡，连年折本，梅伯珍参股的马玉记茶行当时亏了九千多块大洋。

Just when he was hesitantly ready to make a big effort, the outbreak of the First World War led to three consecutive years from 1918 to 1920, the tea business was dismal, year after year, Mei Bozhen shareholding of Ma Yuji Tea Company lost more than 9,000 yen.

梅伯珍的遭遇相当有代表性，当时，梅伯珍的姻亲袁子卿也同样面临这一困局（《梅氏宗谱》载：梅伯珍次子梅世厚生一女，适玉琳袁志仁（袁子卿之子）为室）。

Mei Bozhen's experience was quite representative of the situation faced by Yuan Ziqing, Mei Bozhen's relative by marriage (Mei Clan Genealogy: Mei Bozhen's second son, Mei Shihou, gave birth to a daughter, who was suited to Yulin Yuan Zhiren (Yuan Ziqing's son) as a roommate).

他因为主营红茶，面对白琳工夫当时在国内外市场上竞争力弱、价格较低的局面，果断更换制茶品种，将生产原料全部改为福鼎大白茶，发明了白琳工夫中的珍品“橘红”红茶，结果运到福州销售后一炮打响（见《福鼎文史资料》）。

Because of his main business of black tea, facing the weak competitiveness and low price of Bai Lin Gongfu in domestic and foreign markets, he decisively replaced the tea varieties, changed all the raw materials to Fuding large white tea, and invented the precious "Orange Red" black tea of Bai Lin Gongfu, which was a hit after being shipped to Fuzhou for sale (see Fuding Literary and Historical Materials).

但白茶一直都是外销特种茶，除了欧美以外，最主要的市场还是华侨集中的香港、澳门地区和东南亚国家。

However, white tea has always been an export specialty tea, in addition to Europe and the United States, the most important market is still the concentration of overseas Chinese in Hong Kong, Macao and Southeast Asian countries.

为此，梅伯珍加大了开拓南洋市场的力度，他亲自远渡重洋，努力将白茶、绿茶、红茶销往东南亚。

For this reason, Mei Bozhen increased the development of the South Pacific market, he personally traveled across the ocean, efforts to sell white tea, green tea, black tea to Southeast Asia.

梅伯珍为人信用极好，但生意几起几落。

Mabel Jane was extremely creditworthy, but the business had several ups and downs.

他曾为福茂春两度前往南洋追债，把欠款不还的合作方振瑞兴洋行告上法庭，结果领回来一张四万多元的欠条；他也曾担任福州福鼎会馆茶邦的会计，因为集体购房资金不够，就用自己的财产向华南银行抵押借款，结果时局走弱，会馆经营不善，各种费用其他董事都不理，他独自一人承担了下来。

He has twice traveled to Nanyang to collect debts for Fu Mao Chun, and took the unpaid partner Zhen Rui Xing Foreign Bank to court, only to receive back a note of more than 40,000 yuan; he also served as the accountant of the Fu Ding Guild House Chabang in Fuzhou, and because of insufficient funds for the collective purchase of the house, he borrowed money from the South China Bank using his own property as collateral, and in the result, when the times were weak and the Guild House was not operating well, the other directors ignored the various expenses, and he took them on by himself. He had to bear all the expenses alone.

在柏柳村，至今还留着梅伯珍于1936、1937年间亲手修建的“正屋七溜，以及左右厨房和门楼”，但因为年久失修都显得败落，已经无人居住了。

In Kashiwagi Village, there is still the "main house, seven slips, the left and right kitchens, and the gatehouse," which were built by Mei Bozhen in 1936 and 1937, but they have fallen into disrepair and are no longer inhabited.

反而相隔不远、由梅伯珍祖上梅光国建造的梅家大厝，保存得更为完整。

On the contrary, the Mei family house, which was built not far away from the house by Mei Guangguo, the ancestor of Mei Bozhen, has been preserved more intact.

而在梅家祖屋的正厅，还悬有一面牌匾，上书：“积厚流光”，上面题款是“赐进士翰林院庶吉士加福鼎县事加五级纪录十次陈昉为梅光国立道光三年（1823）岁次姑洗月上涴榖旦”。

In the main hall of the Mei family's ancestral house, there is also a plaque with the inscription "Jiehou Liuguang", which reads, "The scholar Hanlin Academy's concubine scholar and Fuding County's affairs were added to the record of the fifth grade, ten times the record of the tenth time that Chen Fang set up the Meiguang State in the third year of the Daoguang period (1823), the year of the second Gushu month, this Ceres Dan". The name of this place is "Fuding County".

这大约是曾经出过进士的茶商之家，当年书香所剩不多的见证了。

This is a testament to the fact that there are not many books left in the tea merchant's house that once produced a scholar.

民国二十五年（1936年），上海茶叶产地检验监理处（处长为蔡无忌，副处长为中国当代茶圣吴觉农）在白琳设立了办事处，专门检验白琳镇生产的白茶和其他茶叶。

In the 25th year of the Republic of China (1936), the Shanghai Tea Production Inspection Supervision Office (with Cai Wuji as the director and Wu Juanong as the deputy director, the contemporary tea saint of China) set up an office in Bailin, specializing in the inspection of white teas and other teas produced in Bailin town.

民国二十九年（1940年），福建省建设厅创设示范茶厂，福鼎设白琳分厂采办茶叶，时任福建茶叶管理局局长的中国近代茶学家、茶树栽培学科奠基人庄晚芳，点名聘请茶商梅伯珍为福鼎茶业示范厂总经理兼副厂长。

Republic of China in the 29th year (1940), the Fujian Provincial Construction Department to create a model tea factory, Fuding set up Bailin sub-factory tea, then director of the Fujian Tea Administration of China's modern tea scientists, the founder of the tea cultivation disciplines Zhuang Wanfang, named the tea merchant Mei Bozhen for the Fuding Tea Demonstration Plant, general manager and deputy factory director.

梅伯珍当年即设白琳、点头、巽城等三个分厂，采办茶叶5800多件，获利丰厚。

Mei Bozhen that year, that is, set up Bailin, point head, Xuncheng and other three branch factories, more than 5,800 pieces of tea purchased, making a substantial profit.

而他也在第二年宣布退休，回到了老家柏柳村，在年近古稀之时，以自传的方式留下了民国茶事的一段记录。

He announced his retirement in the following year and returned to his hometown of Park Liu Village, where he left a record of the tea affairs of the Republic of China in the form of an autobiography when he was nearly old.

如今走在柏柳村的乡间，一切是安静的，风在林梢，叶落沙沙，农家的小黄狗在阳光下吐着舌头。

Nowadays, when I walk in the countryside of Kashiwagi Village, everything is quiet, the wind is blowing in the forest, the leaves are rustling, and the little yellow dog of the farmer's house is poking its tongue out in the sunlight.

2010年才落成的梅氏宗祠，在这个古旧的村落里显得很新。

Only completed in 2010, the Mei Clan Shrine looks new in this ancient village.

而在梅氏宗祠的门口，村民一字排开的晾青筛上，躺着半干未干的茶青，那些过去的岁月，就好像烟云般被吹得无影无踪。

At the entrance of the Mei Clan Ancestral Hall, the villagers lined up on the drying sieve, lying half-dried tea green, those past years, as if the smoke clouds were blown away without a trace.

但是过去毕竟从这里开始，并从这里走向了新的时代。

But the past, after all, begins here and moves from here to a new era.

1949年6月，福鼎解放。

In June 1949, Fuding was liberated.

1950年4月，中国茶业总公司福建省分公司在白琳康山广泰茶行建设福鼎县茶厂，同年10月迁址于福鼎南校场观音阁。

In April 1950, the Fujian Branch of the China Tea Industry Corporation built the Fuding Tea Factory in Guangtai Tea House, Bailin Kangshan, and in October of the same year, the factory moved to Guanyin Pavilion in the South Campus of Fuding.

原厂址则改为福鼎白琳茶叶初制厂，负责收购白琳、磻溪、点头、管阳，以及霞浦、柘荣、泰顺等地的茶青，经加工制作，销往国内外。

The original factory site was changed to Fuding Bailin Tea Starter Factory, which is responsible for purchasing tea from Bailin, Panxi, Nodou, Guanyang, Xiapu, Zherong, Taishun and other places, and then processing and producing tea for domestic and international sales.

在对澄源的一路感慨中，我们踏入了一片视野绝佳的茶园一石仔岭生态茶园。

In the midst of all the emotions about Cheng Yuan, we stepped into a tea plantation with an excellent view, the Shiziling Eco-Tea Garden.

它的前身是澄源乡茶场，地处澄源乡澄源村，始建于1976年，2007年改制后由福建省政和县云根茶业有限公司经营管理，并成为该公司的产茶基地，现有茶园面积5000余亩。

Its predecessor is Chengyuan Township Tea Farm, located in Chengyuan Village, Chengyuan Township, was founded in 1976, after the restructuring in 2007 by the Fujian Province, Zhenghe County, Yungen Tea Co., Ltd. management, and become the company's tea production base, the existing tea plantations cover an area of more than 5,000 acres.

主要茶种有政和大白茶、福安大白茶、金观音、黄观音、梅占、台茶12号、瑞香，紫玫瑰等，另外还保留有300余亩生长达200余年的小菜茶（土茶）。

The main types of tea are Zhenghe Dabai tea, Fuan Dabai tea, Jin Guanyin, Huang Guanyin, Meizhan, Taicha 12, Ruixiang, Purple Rose, etc. In addition, there are more than 300 acres of small vegetable tea (soil tea) that have been grown for more than 200 years.

这里海拔近千米，茶园中长着各种野草、野花和野果树，沿着一条用石阶连成的观赏道可以一直走到茶园最高处，然后极目四眺。

At an altitude of nearly 1,000 meters, the tea plantation is home to a variety of wild grasses, flowers, and fruit trees, and you can walk along a stone staircase to the highest point of the tea plantation and take in the view.

对此许益灿笑着说，经常有人来看茶园，却把这里当成了花果山。

Xu Yican said with a smile, often people come to see the tea garden, but here as a mountain of flowers and fruits.

看得出来，在澄源土生土长的许益灿，对他的每一株茶苗都爱护有加，就连山风吹歪了茶园脚下的一个牌子，他也要仔细地把它扳正。

It can be seen that Xu Yican, who was born and raised in Chengyuan, loves and cares for each of his tea plants, and even if the wind blows a sign at the foot of the tea garden askew, he has to carefully set it straight.

“茶叶，是我们这个古老的山区，人人都爱的东西。

"Tea, something that everyone loves in this old mountainous region of ours.

出生于20世纪70年代的许益灿，回忆小时候的生活说，“那时候我们澄源乡的人，因为山里生活的这种自足性甚至很少出门。

Xu Yican, who was born in the 1970s, recalled his life as a child, saying, "At that time, we in Chengyuan Township seldom even went out because of the self-sufficiency of life in the mountains.

我第一次去县城还是在中考那年，看到满街的人，听到电铃的声音，感觉既新鲜又困惑。

The first time I went to the county seat was the year I took my midterm exams. Seeing the streets full of people and hearing the sound of electric bells was both new and confusing.

确实如许益灿所说，已经1000多年过去了，澄源乡还是一派“阡陌交通，鸡犬相闻，有良田美池桑竹之属”的世外桃源风貌。

Indeed, as Xu Yican said, has been more than 1,000 years past, Chengyuan Township is still a "road traffic, dogs and chickens smell each other, there is a good field, beautiful pond, mulberry and bamboo belonging to" the world of paradise style.

这里的山民既少见外人，也不提防外人（流动人口很少），甚至许多人白天出门劳作，都没有闭户的习惯。

The mountain peoplehereseldom see outsiders, nor are they wary of outsiders (there are very few transients), and many of them even go out to work during the day and do not close their homes.

直到黄昏的云霞染红了半边天时，他们才踩着夕阳回家，在邻里乡亲的问候中，喝一碗热汤，放松劳作了一天的筋骨。

It is only when the clouds redden the sky at dusk that they step into the sunset and head home, where they are greeted by their neighbors and have a bowl of hot soup to relax their muscles after a long day of work.

其实，茶叶一直是澄源的支柱产业，也是最传统的产业之一。

In fact, tea has always been the pillar industry of Cheng Yuan, and it is also one of the most traditional industries.

整个澄源乡现有茶园面积1.8万亩，其中可采摘面积1.5万亩，茶树种植品种有福安大白茶、福云六号、政和大白茶、台茶12号、福云595、铁观音等优良品种，就茶叶种植面积而言，居整个政和县首位，占全县茶叶种植总面积的25%左右，年产量达到3万担以上。

The whole Chengyuan Township has 18,000 acres of tea plantations, of which 15,000 acres can be harvested, and the varieties of tea planted are Fuan Large White Tea, Fuyun No. 6, Zhenghe Large White Tea, Taiwan Tea No. 12, Fuyun No. 595, Iron Goddess of Mercy and other fine varieties, in terms of the area planted in the tea plantations, it ranks the first in the whole county of Zhenghe, and it accounts for about 25% of the total area planted in the county, and the annual output reaches over 30,000 quintals.

澄源茶因何能有这样的产出？应该说和它的气候有很大关系。

How can Chengyuan tea have such output? It should be said that it has a lot to do with its climate.

澄源地处二元地域，属典型的中亚热带季风性湿润气候，又称高山气候，冬寒夏凉，年平均气温才14.7℃左右，年降水量1900毫米，空气湿度大。

Cheng Yuan is located in the dual area, is a typical subtropical monsoon humid climate, also known as alpine climate, cold winters and cool summers, the average annual temperature is only 14.7 ℃ or so, the annual precipitation of 1900 millimeters, air humidity.

即使是在盛夏，山里的平均气温也只有25℃左右，早晚温差大，十分适宜茶树的生长，且让茶树因光合作用的影响，积累了更丰富的有益物质。

Even in the middle of summer, the average temperature in the mountains is only about 25℃, with a big temperature difference between morning and evening, which is very suitable for the growth of the tea tree, and allows the tea tree to accumulate a richer amount of beneficial substances due to the influence of photosynthesis.

现代科学分析表明，茶树新梢中茶多酚的含量会随着海拔的升高、气温的降低而减少，从而使茶叶的苦涩味减轻；而茶叶中氨基酸和芳香物质的含量却随着海拔升高、气温的降低而增加，这就为茶叶滋味的鲜爽甘醇提供了基础。

Modern scientific analysis shows that the content of tea polyphenols in the new shoots of tea tree will be reduced with the increase of altitude and the decrease of temperature, which makes the tea less bitter and astringent; while the content of amino acids and aromatic substances in the tea increases with the increase of altitude and the decrease of temperature, which provides the basis for the freshness and sweetness of the tea flavor.

有学者也在研究高山茶叶的香气的形成机理时指出，山区低温和茶梢生长缓慢是形成高山茶香的主要原因。

Some scholars have also pointed out in their research on the formation mechanism of the aroma of alpine tea that the low temperature in mountainous areas and the slow growth of tea tips are the main reasons for the formation of the aroma of alpine tea.

而茶叶中的芳香物质在加工过程中会发生复杂的化学变化，产生某些鲜花的芬芳，具有独特的风味特征。

The aromatic substances in tea leaves undergo complex chemical changes during processing, resulting in the aroma of certain flowers with unique flavor characteristics.

地处高山区的澄源所拥有的小气候，使茶园保持了较理想的生态平衡。

The microclimate that Cheng Yuan, located in a high mountainous area, possesses allows the tea plantations to maintain a more optimal ecological balance.

茶树凭借自身的抵御能力，少有病虫害，很多茶园从不喷施农药；而山区茶园中的天然肥源丰富，让土壤保持了良好的理化性状，使茶叶品质更优良。

Tea trees by virtue of their own ability to resist, few pests and diseases, many tea gardens never spray pesticides; and the mountainous areas of the tea plantations in the natural fertilizer rich, so that the soil maintains a good physical and chemical properties, so that the quality of tea is better.

另外，这里人迹罕至，几乎没有空气污染，又让高山茶的生态多了一份保证。

In addition, it is a sparsely populated area with virtually no air pollution, which adds to the ecological assurance of high mountain tea.

井、黄山的毛峰、云南的普洱等，这些耳熟能详的名茶，都是独特的地理环境和气候条件成就了它们优异的品质。

Jingjing, Maofeng from Huangshan, Pu'er from Yunnan, and so on, all these famous and familiar teas owe their excellent quality to their unique geographical environment and climate conditions.

白茶的主要产地是福建的福鼎市、政和县，建阳县、松溪县、建瓯县等也有。

The main production areas of white tea are Fuding City and Zhenghe County in Fujian Province, and also in Jianyang County, Songxi County and Jianou County.

在同一个产区，海拔、生态、土壤、茶园管理等因素都会对茶叶品质产生影响。

In the same production area, factors such as altitude, ecology, soil, and tea plantation management all have an impact on tea quality.

白茶的优质原料主要来自政和、福鼎的高山区，这些产区不仅海拔高，而且生态环境也十分优越，为白茶的品质奠定了良好的基础。

The high-quality raw materials of white tea mainly come from the high mountainous areas of Zhenghe and Fuding, which are not only high in altitude, but also have a very favorable ecological environment, laying a good foundation for the quality of white tea.

俗话说“高山云雾出好茶”。

As the saying goes, "good tea comes out of high mountain clouds and mist".

通常情况下，海拔高的茶品质会比海拔低的好。

Usually, the quality of tea at higher altitude will be better than that at lower altitude.

最典型的是斯里兰卡红茶，直接以海拔的不同分类，分为高地茶（海拔在1200米以上）、中地茶（海拔在600-1200米）和低地茶（海拔在600米以下）三大类，斯里兰卡著名的红茶产区乌沃、努瓦勒埃利亚生产的茶都属于高地茶。

The most typical is Sri Lankan black tea, directly classified by the different altitudes, divided into highland tea (altitude of 1200 meters above sea level), middle-ground tea (altitude of 600-1200 meters) and lowland tea (altitude of 600 meters below sea level) three categories, Sri Lanka's famous black tea producing areas Uva and Nuwara Eliya production of tea are all belong to the highland tea.

一般说来，海拔每升高100米，气温大致降低0.6摄氏度。

In general, for every 100 meters of elevation gain, the temperature decreases by roughly 0.6 degrees Celsius.

现代科学分析表明，茶树新梢中茶多酚的含量随着海拔升高、气温降低而减少，海拔越高，茶叶的涩味越轻；而茶叶中氨基酸和芳香物质的含量却随着海拔升高、气温降低而增加，这就为茶叶滋味的鲜爽甘醇提供了物质基础。

Modern scientific analysis shows that the content of tea polyphenols in the new shoots of the tea tree decreases with the increase of altitude and the decrease of temperature, and the higher the altitude, the lighter the astringency of tea; while the content of amino acids and aromatic substances in tea increases with the increase of altitude and the decrease of temperature, which provides the material basis for the freshness of the taste of tea.

高海拔茶园的茶叶内含物质会更加丰富。

Tea from high altitude tea plantations will be richer in substances.

高山地区昼夜温差大，白天气温高，日照充足，茶树的光合能力强，合成物质多。

Alpine areas with a large temperature difference between day and night, high daytime temperatures, sufficient sunshine, the tea tree's photosynthetic capacity, synthesize more substances.

夜晚气温较低，茶叶背面呼吸气孔关闭，茶树的呼吸随之放缓。

At night the temperature is lower, the back of the tea leaves respiratory stomata closed, and the respiration of the tea tree slows down.

由于呼吸消耗减少，茶树得以积累和贮存更多的营养物质，而使得高山茶内含物质更加丰富。

Due to the reduced respiratory consumption, the tea tree is able to accumulate and store more nutrients, which makes the alpine tea richer in substances.

高山地区云雾多，太阳光质与茶叶品质有着密切的关系，红光利于茶多酚形成，而蓝紫光则促进氨基酸、蛋白质合成。

The high mountain area has a lot of clouds and mist, and the quality of sunlight has a close relationship with the quality of tea. Red light is good for the formation of tea polyphenols, while blue-violet light promotes the synthesis of amino acids and proteins.

在一些海拔高的山区，雨量充沛，云雾多，长波光受云雾阻挡，在云层被反射，以蓝紫光为主的短波光穿透力强，这也是高山茶氨基酸、叶绿素和含氮芳香物质多，茶多酚含量相对较低、涩味轻的主要原因。

In some high-altitude mountainous areas, rainfall is abundant, there are many clouds, long-wave light is blocked by clouds, reflected in the clouds, and short-wave light, mainly blue-violet light, has strong penetration, which is the main reason why alpine tea has more amino acids, chlorophyll and nitrogenous aromatic substances, and the content of tea polyphenols is relatively low and astringent flavor is light.

另外高山地区多以腐质砂石土壤为主，土层深厚，酸度适宜。

In addition, the alpine region is mostly dominated by humic gravel soils, which are deep and acidic.

植被繁茂，枯枝落叶多，地面形成一层厚厚的覆盖物，这样不但土壤质地疏松，有机质和矿物质丰富，茶树在这种生态环境下，生长旺盛，芽叶肥壮，内含物丰富，加工而成的白茶自然香气足，滋味鲜爽。

The vegetation is luxuriant, withered branches and leaves, the ground forms a thick layer of mulch, so not only is the soil loose, rich in organic matter and minerals, the tea tree grows vigorously in this ecological environment, the buds and leaves are strong and rich in inclusions, and the processed white tea naturally has sufficient aroma and fresh taste.

茶园周边的生态，对茶叶品质的影响也十分显著，茶叶的味道会随着生长地的土壤、水、气候、光线的改变而发生变化。

The ecology around the tea plantation also has a significant impact on the quality of the tea, as the flavor of the tea changes with the soil, water, climate, and light of the area where it is grown.

茶树原产于我国西南地区，在长期的进化过程中，茶树形成了喜温怕寒、喜光怕晒、喜酸怕碱、喜湿怕涝的习性。

Tea tree is native to the southwest of China, in the long-term evolutionary process, the tea tree has formed a preferred temperature and fear of cold, preferring light and fear of sunshine, preferring acid and fear of alkali, preferring wet and fear of flooding habits.

凡是在气候温和、雨量充沛、湿度较大、光照适中、土壤肥沃的地方采制的茶叶，品质都比较好。

Tea leaves picked in places with mild climate, abundant rainfall, high humidity, moderate light and fertile soil are of better quality.

在福建白茶的产区，很多茶园周边的森林覆盖率高，这给茶树生长带来纯净的水源、湿润的空气等。

In the production area of Fujian White Tea, many tea gardens are surrounded by high forest coverage, which brings pure water and moist air to the growth of tea trees.

在白茶产区有不少多年没有管理的茶园，采摘这种茶园中的鲜叶做成的白茶，不仅香气浓郁，而且滋味也非常鲜爽，很有特色。

In the white tea production area, there are many tea gardens that have not been managed for many years, and the fresh leaves from these gardens are picked to make white tea, which not only has a strong aroma, but also has a very fresh and refreshing flavor, which is very unique.

这种荒废的茶园在茶区经常能见到，现在很多人把出自这些地方的茶叫做“荒茶”或者“野茶”。

This kind of deserted tea plantation is often seen in the tea region, and many people now call the tea from these places "deserted tea" or "wild tea".

另外还有一些零星的茶园，种植的茶树大多属于自然繁殖，以当地的菜茶为主，其品质风格各异，制成白茶，习惯上叫“小白”，滋味清新、甘甜。

There are also some sporadic tea gardens, where most of the tea trees are naturally reproduced, and the local vegetable tea is the mainstay, with different styles of quality, and made into white tea, which is customarily called "Xiaobai", with a fresh, sweet taste.

福鼎太姥山的茶园现代茶园大多数良种化，管理也更加科学。

Tea plantations in Fuding Taimushan Most modern tea plantations are seeded and managed more scientifically.

通过人工管理，可以人为地为茶树生长提供更适合的条件，比如采取灌溉来防止干旱对茶叶生长的影响，通过施肥来提高茶叶的产量，但也会由于过度使用化肥和农药，影响到茶叶的品质。

Artificial management can artificially provide more suitable conditions for tea plant growth, such as irrigation to prevent drought, and fertilization to increase yields, but it can also affect the quality of the tea due to overuse of chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

这几年，有的地方开始发展有机茶种植，按照有机农业的要求，采用农家肥和生物防治的方式来防止病虫害，这种方式虽会影响到茶叶的产量，但是茶叶的品质会更好，而且经过有机农业组织认证后的茶叶销售价格也会更高，可以一定程度减少因为产量下降带来的损失，同时保护了茶树生长的自然环境，促进了茶叶产业的可持续发展。

In recent years, some places have begun to develop organic tea planting, in accordance with the requirements of organic agriculture, the use of farmyard fertilizers and biological control methods to prevent pests and diseases, this approach will affect the production of tea, but the quality of tea will be better, and after the certification of the organic agricultural organizations, the sales price of tea will be higher, which can to a certain extent reduce the loss due to the decline in production, and at the same time protect the natural environment of the growth of the tea tree. At the same time, it protects the natural environment where tea trees grow and promotes the sustainable development of the tea industry.

品种对茶叶品质十分关键。

Varieties are critical to tea quality.

如武夷岩茶就有“香不过肉桂，醇不过水仙”的说法，肉桂和水仙这两种茶树品种，同样种植在武夷山茶区，以肉桂茶树鲜叶制成的岩茶香气非常浓郁，以水仙茶树鲜叶制成的岩茶茶汤会更加甜醇。

Such as Wuyi rock tea has a "fragrance but cinnamon, mellow but Narcissus" said, cinnamon and Narcissus these two varieties of tea trees, also planted in the Wuyi Mountain Tea District, to cinnamon tea tree leaves made of rock tea aroma is very strong, to Narcissus tea tree leaves made of rock tea tea broth will be more sweet and mellow.

茶树品种对白茶的品质影响也是一样的。

Tea tree varieties have the same effect on the quality of white tea.

由于白茶品质特征中芽叶显毫是一个重要的指标，高等级的白茶甚至要求成茶外表满披白毫。

As the white tea quality characteristics of buds and leaves show hair is an important indicator, the high grade white tea even requires the appearance of the finished tea to be covered with white hair.

这就要求茶树品种嫩梢满披茸毛，而且芽叶肥壮，氨基酸含量高，酚氨比通常小于10（酚氨比是指以茶树一芽两叶的茶多酚与氨基酸总量的比值，可在相当程度上判定鲜叶的适制性。

This requires tea tree varieties to be full of hairy shoots and leaves, and buds and leaves,highamino acidcontent, phenol-ammonia ratio is usually less than 10 (phenol-ammonia ratio refers to the ratio of tea polyphenols to the total amount of amino acids in one bud and two leaves of the tea tree, which can be used to determine the suitability of the fresh leaves to a considerable extent.

一般而言，制作绿茶的品种要求氨基酸含量高，酚氨比数值小于8。

In general, varieties of green tea require a high amino acid content and a phenol-ammonia ratio of less than 8.

在8-15之间红绿兼制，白茶品种通常小于10，而制作红茶的品种要求茶多酚高，酚氨比数值通常大于15。

Between 8 and 15 for black and green, white tea varieties are usually less than 10, while black tea varieties require high polyphenols, and the phenol-ammonia ratio is usually greater than 15.

如果用酚氨比较大的品种制作绿茶，往往滋味苦涩，反之用酚氨比小的品种制作红茶，则易滋味寡淡）。

(If green tea is made from varieties with larger phenol-ammonia ratios, it tends to be bitter and astringent, while black tea made from varieties with smaller phenol-ammonia ratios tends to be bland).

传统上适合制作白茶的主要品种有福鼎大毫茶、福安大白茶、福鼎大白茶、政和大白茶、福建水仙及地方品种菜茶等。

Traditionally, the main varieties suitable for making white tea are Fuding Dahaocha, Fuan Dahaocha, Fuding Dahaocha, Zhenghe Dahaocha, Fujian Shui Xian and local varieties of vegetable tea.

这些品种中，除了菜茶外，其他茶树的植株较高大，多为小乔木，中大叶种，芽叶肥厚，而且显毫。

Among these varieties, except for Vegetable Tea, the other tea plants are taller, mostly small trees, medium to large leaves, with fat buds and leaves, and show hair.

由于品种的不同，制作出来的白茶品质也会有差异。

Due to the different varieties, the quality of the white tea produced will also vary.

福鼎大毫茶原产于福鼎市点头镇汪家洋村，已有100多年的栽培历史，由于发芽早，芽叶肥壮，产量大，在福鼎广泛种植，是采制福鼎白茶的主要品种，约占福鼎白茶产量的70%以上。

Fuding Dahao tea originates from Wangjiayang Village, Nodou Town, Fuding City, and has a cultivation history of more than 100 years. Due to the early germination, strong and fat buds, and large production, it is widely planted in Fuding and is the main variety of Fuding White Tea, accounting for more than 70% of the production of Fuding White Tea.

福鼎大毫茶茶树植株高大，树姿较直立，主干明显，树高2.8米以上，树幅2.8米以上，分枝部位较高，分枝较密，枝条粗壮，为小乔木型大叶种。

Fuding Dahao tea tea tree plant is tall, the tree posture is more upright, the main trunk is obvious, the tree height is more than 2.8 meters, the tree width is more than 2.8 meters, the branching part is higher, the branching is denser, the branching is stout, for the small arbor-type large-leaved species.

叶片水平或下垂状着生，叶形椭圆或近长椭圆，叶尖渐尖下垂，叶缘面卷，叶面略隆起，叶色浓绿具有光泽，锯齿深明而钝，侧脉较明显。

Leaf blades horizontal or pendulous, elliptic or suboblong elliptic, apices acuminate and pendulous, leaf margins rolled, leaf surfaces slightly elevated, leaf color rich green with luster, serrations deep and obtuse, lateral veins more obvious.

福鼎大毫茶色泽较绿，芽叶肥壮，满披白毫，色白如银，香清味醇，是制“白毫银针”、“白牡丹”的高级原料。

Fuding Dahao tea is green in color, with fat buds and leaves, covered with white hairs, white as silver, with a clear aroma and mellow taste, and is a high-level raw material for making "White Hair Silver Needle" and "White Peony".

以春茶一芽二叶初展、福鼎大毫茶鲜叶自然萎凋制成的白茶在形态上，芽叶连枝，外形肥壮，叶态平伏伸展，叶缘垂卷，叶面有隆起，叶尖翘起；在色泽上，叶面翠绿、匀润，叶背有白茸毛，毫心银白；香气清爽鲜嫩、毫香显；汤色黄绿、清澈明亮。

The white tea made from spring tea buds and two leaves at the beginning of development, Fuding Dahao tea leaves withered naturally, in the form of buds and leaves, plump in appearance, the leaf state is flat and stretched out, the edge of the leaf hangs down and rolls, the surface of the leaf has rises, the tip of the leaf is arched; in the color and lustre, the surface of the leaf is emerald green, uniformly moist, the back of the leaf has white velvet hairs, and the heart of the hairs is silver and white; the aroma is refreshingly fresh and tender, and the hairs aroma is obvious; the color of the soup is greenish-yellow, clear and bright.

滋味鲜爽清甜、毫味重；叶底毫心肥壮，叶张软嫩，毫芽连枝，叶脉微红，叶色黄绿。

The taste is fresh and sweet, with a heavy millia flavor; the leaf bottom has a plump millia heart, soft and tender leaves, millia buds with branches, reddish leaf veins, and yellowish-green leaf color.

福鼎大白茶原产于福鼎县太姥山。

Fuding Great White Tea is native to Tai Mo Shan in Fuding County.

据传说，距今100多年前，由柏柳乡竹头村陈焕把此茶移植家中，后繁育成功。

According to legend, more than 100 years ago, Chen Huan from Jutou Village, Bailiu Township, transplanted this tea to his home and later bred it successfully.

由于福鼎大白茶的茶叶产量不如福鼎大毫茶，而且芽叶也不如福鼎大毫茶肥厚，福鼎茶农更喜欢种植福鼎大毫茶。

Since the tea yield of Fuding Daho tea is not as high as that of Fuding Da Hao tea, and the buds are not as fat as those of Fuding Da Hao tea, Fuding tea farmers prefer to grow Fuding Da Hao tea.

福云6号；福云595；福建水仙；福安大白茶福鼎大白茶茶树植株高大，树高1.5-2米，幅宽1.6-2米，树姿半开张，分枝较密。

Fuyun 6; Fuyun 595; Fujian Narcissus; Fuding Dabai Tea Fuding Dabai Tea tea plant is tall, tree height 1.5-2 meters, width 1.6-2 meters, tree posture semi-open, branching is dense.

树皮灰色，为小乔木型，中叶种。

 The bark is gray and is a small tree type, medium-leaved species.

叶片呈上斜状着生，叶呈椭圆形，叶色绿，叶面隆起，有光泽，叶身平，叶尖钝尖，叶齿锐，较密，叶质较厚软。

The leaf blade is upwardly oblique, oval, green, with a raised, glossy surface, flat body, blunt tip, sharp teeth, dense, thicker and softer texture.

白茶品质特征福鼎大白茶品质极佳，以茸毛多而洁白、色绿、汤鲜美为特色。

White Tea Quality Characteristics Fuding Great White Tea is of excellent quality, characterized by many velvet hairs and white, green color and fresh soup.

以春茶一芽二叶初展、福鼎大白茶鲜叶自然萎凋制成的白茶在形态上，芽叶连枝，外形较肥壮，叶态平伏伸展，叶缘垂卷，叶面有龟甲纹隆起；在色泽上，叶面翠绿、匀润，叶背有白茸毛，毫心银白、亮；叶尖翘起；香气鲜嫩清爽、毫香显；汤色橙黄尚绿、清澈明亮。

The white tea made from the first development of spring tea buds and two leaves, and the natural withering of Fuding Great White Tea fresh leaves is in the form of buds and leaves with branches, fattening in appearance, with the leaves in the form of flat and stretched out, the leaf margins drooping and rolling, and the surface of the leaves with tortoiseshell lines; in the color and lustre, the surface of the leaves is emerald green, uniformly moist, and the back of the leaves has white velvet hairs, and the heart of the hairs is silver-white and bright, and the tip of the leaf is upturned, and the fragrance is fresh and refreshing, and the hair flavor is obvious, and the color of the soup is orange-yellow, still green, and clear and bright.

滋味鲜爽清甜、毫味重；叶底毫心较肥壮，叶张软嫩，毫芽连枝，叶脉微红，叶色黄绿。

The taste is fresh and sweet, with a heavy milligram flavor; the leaf bottom has a fat milligram heart, soft and tender leaves, with milligram buds, slightly red veins, and yellowish-green leaf color.

福安大白茶原产福建省福安市康厝乡上高山村。

Fuan Dabai Tea is native to Shang Gaoshan Village, Kangcuo Township, Fuan City, Fujian Province.

主要分布在福建东部、北部茶区。

It is mainly distributed in the eastern and northern tea regions of Fujian.

因其发芽较当地的政和白茶早，而且适合制红茶，在政和广泛种植。

 It is widely planted in Zhenghe because it germinates earlier than the local Zhenghe white tea and is suitable for making black tea.

茶树植株高大，树姿半开张，主干显，分枝较密，为小乔木型，大叶种。

Tea tree plant tall, tree posture half open, the main trunk is obvious, branching denser, for the small tree type, large-leaved species.

叶片呈稍上斜状着生。

Leaf blade slightly upwardly oblique.

叶呈长椭圆形，叶色深绿，富光泽，叶面平，叶缘平，叶身内折，叶尖渐尖，叶齿较锐、浅密，叶质厚脆。

Leaves are long elliptic, dark green, glossy, with flat surfaces, flat margins, inwardly folded bodies, acuminate tips, sharp, shallowly dense teeth, and thick, brittle texture.

以福安大白茶鲜叶制白茶色稍暗，以芽肥壮、味清甜、香清、汤浓厚为特色，制白毫银针，则颜色鲜白带暗，全披白毫，香气清鲜，滋味清甜。

The color of white tea made from the fresh leaves of Fu'an large white tea is slightly dark, featuring fat buds, sweet taste, clear aroma, and thick soup, and the white silver needle, which is bright white with dark color and covered with white hairs, fresh aroma, and sweet taste.

以春茶一芽二叶初展、福安大白茶鲜叶自然萎凋制成的白茶在形态上，芽叶连枝，外形肥壮，叶态平伏伸展，叶缘垂卷，叶尖翘起；在色泽上，叶面灰绿、匀润稍暗，叶背有白茸毛，略暗，毫心银白稍暗；香气清爽鲜嫩、毫香显；汤色橙黄稍深、清澈明亮。

The white tea made from spring tea buds and two leaves at the beginning of development and natural withering of the fresh leaves of Fu'an Great White Tea is in shape, with buds and leaves connected, fat and strong in appearance, with flat and stretched leaves, with leaf margins drooping and curling, and the tips of the leaves rising; in color and luster, with gray-green, uniformly moist and a little bit dark on the surface of the leaf, with white velvet hairs on the back of the leaf, a little bit dark, and a little bit dark in the silver-white heart of the hairs; in aroma, with freshness and tenderness, and with obvious fragrance of hairs; and the soup color is orange-yellow and a little bit darker, clear and bright.

滋味浓厚清甜鲜爽、毫味重；叶底毫心肥壮，叶张软嫩，毫芽连枝，叶脉微红，叶色黄绿稍深。

The taste is thick, sweet and fresh, with a heavy milligram flavor; the leaf bottom has a plump milligram heart, soft and tender leaves, with milligram buds, slightly reddish leaf veins, and a slightly darker yellow-green leaf color.

政和大白茶原产于政和县铁山高仓头山。

Zhenghe large white tea originated in Zhenghe County, Tieshan high cangtou mountain.

政和大白茶是晚生种，茶树发芽要比福鼎大毫茶和福安大白茶晚10天以上，这几年在政和的种植面积在减少，但是以其鲜叶制作出来的白茶外形肥壮、香气清鲜，滋味鲜爽甘醇，因而是制成白毫银针、白牡丹的优质原料。

Zhenghe large white tea is a late-born species, the germination of the tea tree is more than 10 days later than Fuding Dahao tea and Fu'an large white tea, and the planting area in Zhenghe is decreasing in these years, but the white tea made from its fresh leaves has a plump shape, fresh aroma, and a fresh and sweet flavor, and thus it is a high-quality raw material for making white hair silver needle and white peony.

政和大白茶茶树植株高大，树高1.5-2米，幅宽1-1.5米。

Zhenghe large white tea tea tree plant is tall, tree height 1.5-2 meters, width 1-1.5 meters.

树姿直立，分枝少，节间长。

Trees erect, little branched, long internodes.

嫩枝为红褐色，老枝为灰白色，为小乔木型，大叶种。

The shoots are reddish-brown and the older branches are grayish-white, a small-tree type with large leaves.

叶片呈水平状着生，叶形椭圆，叶色深绿，富光泽，叶面隆起，叶质较厚。

The leaf blade is horizontally attached, oval in shape, dark green in color, glossy, elevated, and thick.

以政和大白茶鲜叶所制白茶色稍黄，以芽肥壮、味鲜、香清、汤厚为特色，所制白毫银针，颜色鲜白带黄，全披白毫，香气清鲜，滋味清甜。

The white tea made from the fresh leaves of Zhenghe large white tea is slightly yellow in color, featuring fat buds, fresh taste, clear aroma and thick soup, and the white silver needle made from it is bright white with yellow color, covered with white hairs, with fresh aroma and sweet taste.

以春茶一芽二叶初展、政和大白茶鲜叶自然萎凋制成的白茶在形态上，芽叶连枝，外形极肥壮，叶态平伏伸展，叶缘垂卷，叶尖翘起；在色泽上，叶面灰绿、匀润，叶背有白茸毛，银灰白色，毫心银白稍灰暗；香气清爽鲜嫩、毫香显；汤色橙黄稍深、清澈明亮。

The white tea made from spring tea buds and two leaves at the beginning of development, and the natural withering of fresh leaves of Chenghe Dabaicha is in the form of buds and leaves with branches, extremely fat and strong in appearance, the leaf state is flat and stretched, the edge of the leaf is drooping and rolled, and the tip of the leaf is arched; in the color and lustre, the surface of the leaf is grey-green and uniformly moist, and the back of the leaf is with white velvet hairs, silver-gray-white, and the heart of the hairs is silver-white with a slightly grayish darkness; the aroma is refreshingly fresh and tender, and the hair aroma is obvious; and the color of the soup is orange-yellow with a slightly deeper, clear, and bright.

滋味浓厚、鲜爽清甜、毫味重；叶底毫心肥壮，叶张软嫩，毫芽连枝，叶脉微红，叶色黄绿。

The taste is thick, fresh and sweet, with a heavy hair flavor; the leaf bottom has a fat hair heart, soft and tender leaves, hair buds with branches, reddish leaf veins, and yellowish-green leaf color.

福建水仙原产于福建建阳市小湖镇大湖村，栽培历史有100多年。

Fujian Narcissus is native to Dahu Village, Xiaohu Town, Jianyang City, Fujian Province, with a cultivation history of more than 100 years.

主要种植在福建的闽北和闽南茶区，广东的饶平也有种植。

It is mainly planted in Fujian's northern Fujian and southern Fujian tea areas, and also planted in Guangdong's Rao Ping.

水仙茶鲜叶现在主要用来制作乌龙茶。

Shui Xian tea fresh leaves are now mainly used to make oolong tea.

历史上，水仙茶品种被发现后，其鲜叶曾经在建阳的水吉一带被大量用来加工白茶，因其芽肥壮、香浓郁、味醇厚而受欢迎。

Historically, after the discovery of the Narcissus tea variety, its fresh leaves were once used in large quantities to process white tea in the Shui Ji area of Jian Yang, which was popular because of its plump buds, rich aroma, and mellow flavor.

但是因为制成的白茶外形不好看，大多被拼配到其他白茶中，以提高香气和滋味。

However, because of the unattractive appearance of the white tea made, it is mostly blended into other white teas to enhance the aroma and flavor.

目前还在少量生产。

It is still being produced in small quantities.

福建水仙树势高大，自然生长可以达到5-6米，树姿半开张，主干较明显，分枝较疏，节间长1.8-3.5厘米。

Fujian Narcissus is a tall tree, with a natural growth of 5-6 meters, a semi-open posture, an obvious main trunk, sparse branching, and an internode length of 1.8-3.5 centimeters.

嫩枝为红褐色，老枝为灰白色，为小乔木型，大叶种。

The shoots are reddish-brown and the older branches are grayish-white, a small-tree type with large leaves.

叶片呈水平状着生，叶形呈椭圆形或长椭圆形，叶色深绿，富光泽，叶面平，叶缘平稍成波状，叶尖渐尖，叶质厚，硬脆。

 The leaf blade is horizontally attached, the leaf shape is elliptic or long oval, the leaf color is dark green, rich in luster, the leaf surface is flat, the leaf margin is flat and slightly undulate, the leaf tip is acuminate, the leaf texture is thick, hard and brittle.

福建水仙茶芽叶连枝，叶态平伏伸展，叶缘垂卷；外形极肥壮，叶尖翘起；色泽为叶面暗绿，匀润；叶背有黄白茸毛，毫心银白稍暗；香气鲜嫩清爽、毫香显，略带水仙茶特有的兰花香；汤色橙黄、清澈。

Fujian Shui Xian Tea buds and leaves, the leaf state is flat and stretched, leaf edge hanging scroll; shape is very fat, the tip of the leaf is up; color is dark green on the surface of the leaf, uniformly moist; the back of the leaf has yellow and white velvet hairs, the heart of the hairs is silver-white and a little darker; the aroma is fresh and refreshing, the hairs are obvious, and it has a slight orchid aroma unique to Shui Xian Tea; the soup color is orange-yellow and clear.

滋味浓厚、鲜爽清甜、毫味重；叶底毫心多而肥壮，叶张软嫩，毫芽连枝，叶脉微红，叶色黄绿。

The taste is rich, fresh and sweet, with a heavy milligram flavor; the leaf bottom is full of fat milligrams, the leaf sheet is soft and tender, the milligram buds are continuous, the leaf veins are reddish, and the leaf color is yellowish-green.

菜茶是指用种子繁育的茶树群体种，栽培历史约有1000余年，由于长期用种子繁殖与自然变异的结果，性状混杂。

Vegetable tea refers to a group of tea tree species bred from seeds with a history of cultivation of about 1,000 years, with mixed traits as a result of prolonged seed reproduction and natural variation.

用来制作白茶的菜茶品种主要是武夷菜茶，在闽北和闽东白茶主要产区都有种植。

Vegetable tea varieties used to make white tea are mainly Wuyi Vegetable Tea, which is planted in the major white tea producing areas of northern Fujian and eastern Fujian.

用菜茶加工白茶大多为贡眉级别，现在也有用细嫩的芽叶做成牡丹级别，但是菜茶的芽头较细小，制成白茶后，形似白眉，俗称“小白”。

Most of the white tea processed with vegetable tea is Gongmei level, and now there are also tender buds and leaves made into peony level, but the buds of vegetable tea are smaller, and when made into white tea, it looks like white eyebrow, which is commonly known as "small white".

武夷菜茶以灌木型为主，植株中等，树姿半开张或开张，分枝较密，叶片呈水平或稍上斜状着生。

Wuyi vegetable tea is mainly shrub type, medium plant, tree posture half open or open, densely branched, leaves are horizontal or slightly upward slanting bearing.

枝皮粗糙，呈暗灰色。

Branch bark is rough and dark gray.

叶长椭圆，叶色绿或深绿，叶面隆或微隆起，叶缘平或微波，叶身平或稍内折，叶尖钝尖或渐尖，叶齿较锐、深密，叶质较厚脆。

Leaves are long elliptic, green or dark green, leaf surface elevated or slightly elevated, leaf margin flat or microwaved, leaf body flat or slightly inflexed, leaf tip obtuse-acuminate or acuminate, leaf teeth sharper and denser, leaf texture thicker and brittle.

芽叶淡绿或紫绿色，茸毛较少。

The buds and leaves are light green or purple-green, with less velvet.

形态呈现芽叶连枝，外形稍小，叶态平伏伸展，叶缘垂卷，叶面有龟甲纹隆起；色泽为叶面翠绿润匀，叶背青绿，有茸毛，毫尚显，毫心银白；香气鲜嫩清爽，有毫香；汤色为明黄带绿、清澈明亮；滋味清甜醇爽，毫味显；叶底毫心多稍瘦，叶张软嫩，色泽灰绿匀亮。

Morphology shows buds and leaves, slightly small in shape, with flat and spreading leaves, leaf margins hanging and curling, and raised tortoise shell lines on the leaf surface; color and luster are emerald green on the leaf surface, green on the back of the leaf, with velvet hairs, hairs are still visible, and the heart of the hairs is silver-white; the aroma is fresh and refreshing, with the smell of hairs; the soup color is bright green with yellow and is clear and bright; the taste is clear and sweet, mellow and refreshing, with the flavor of hairs being visible; the bottom of the leaf is thin with many hairs, the leaf is soft and tender, and the color and lustre of the leaf is gray-green and even and bright.

另外，由于白茶在国内兴起，福建一些茶区也开始尝试用乌龙茶和一些新品种来加工白茶，用乌龙茶加工出来的白茶，香气高，滋味浓厚。

In addition, due to the rise of white tea in China, some tea regions in Fujian have begun to try to use oolong tea and some new varieties to process white tea, white tea processed with oolong tea, high aroma and strong flavor.

在新品种中，以福云595制成白茶，虽然茶芽偏小，茸毛不够浓密，但是花香很显，而且滋味浓厚，回甘也很好。

Among the new varieties, Fuyun 595 was used to make white tea, although the tea buds were small and the hairs were not dense enough, the floral aroma was very obvious, and the flavor was strong, with a good aftertaste.

在广东，有茶厂尝试用白毛茶和英红9号制成白茶，也很有特色。

In Guangdong, some tea factories try to make white tea with white hair tea and Yinghong No. 9, which is also very distinctive.

在云南景谷有茶厂用云南大白茶，按照白茶的加工工艺生产白茶，叫“月光白”，有浓郁的蜜香与毫香。

In Yunnan Jinggu, there are tea factories using Yunnan large white tea, according to the white tea processing technology to produce white tea, called "moonlight white", with a strong honey flavor and fragrance.

“早采一天是宝，晚采一天是草”，这句谚语是说茶叶采摘对时间的要求。

"Early picking one dayis treasure, late picking one day is grass", this proverb is to say that tea picking on the time requirements.

茶叶的采摘时间受产地、品种等的影响。

Tea picking time is affected by the place of origin, variety and so on.

白茶的采摘在清明前后，福鼎的开采时间要比政和早，在同一个区域，福鼎大毫茶、福鼎大白茶的开采要早于福安大白茶，福安大白茶要早于政和大白茶。

White tea is plucked around the time of the Qingming Festival, and Fuding's plucking time is earlier than Zhenghe's. In the same region, Fuding Dahaocha and Fuding Dabaicha are plucked earlier than Fu'an Dabaicha, and Fu'an Dabaicha is earlier than Zhenghe Dabaicha.

按照所做的产品品质的要求，制白毫银针的鲜叶采摘时间要早于制白牡丹、贡眉和寿眉的。

In accordance with the quality of the product being made, the fresh leaves for making White Hair Silver Needle are picked earlier than those for making White Peony, Gong Mei and Shou Mei.

张天福先生在《福建白茶的调查研究》中总结到：“春茶可采到5月小满，产量约占全年总产量的50%。

Mr. Zhang Tianfu in the "Fujian white tea research" concluded that: "spring tea can be picked until May small full, the production accounted for about 50% of the total annual output.

夏季采自6月芒种到7月小暑，产量约占25%。

The summer harvest is from June for mango planting to July for summer vacation, with about 25% of the yield.

秋茶采自7月。

Fall tea is harvested from July.

春茶为最佳，叶质柔软，芽心肥壮，茸毛洁白，茶身沉重，汤水浓厚、爽口，所以在春茶中高级茶（特、一、二级）所占的比重大。

Spring tea is the best, soft leaves, bud heart fat, velvet white, heavy tea body, soup thick, refreshing, so in the spring tea in the high-grade tea (special, first and second level) accounted for a significant proportion.

夏茶芽心瘦小，叶质带硬，茶身轻飘，汤水淡薄或稍带青涩。

Summer tea buds are thin and small, the leaves are hard, the tea body is light, and the soup is thin or slightly astringent.

秋茶品质则介于春、夏茶之间。

The quality of fall tea is between spring and summer tea.

秋天气候秋高气爽，很适合晾晒白茶，制作的茶叶品质优良。

The climate in the fall is high and clear, very suitable for drying white tea, and the quality of the tea produced is excellent.

高山茶区气温温差大，紫外线较强，漫射光多，生产的白茶香气高，滋味浓厚。

The high mountain tea area has a big temperature difference, strong ultraviolet rays and diffuse light, producing white tea with high aroma and strong flavor.

白茶的采摘还要看气候条件。

The picking of white tea also depends on the climatic conditions.

白茶加工关键工序是萎凋，因此采摘要选择晴天，尤以北风天最佳，北风是从内地大陆吹来，空气干燥，如果太阳大、气温高，茶青在萎凋过程中失水容易控制，可以制出好的白茶。

The key process of white tea processing is withering, so picking should choose sunny days, especially the best days with north wind, which is blowing from the mainland, the air is dry, and if the sun is big and the temperature is high, the loss of water in the withering process is easy to be controlled, and a good white tea can be made.

如果是遇到南风天就会差一些，太阳虽大，气温虽高，但从南边海上吹来的风湿度较大，茶青干燥较慢，生产的白茶容易出现芽绿、梗黑的情况。

If it is encountered in the south wind day will be worse, although the sun is big, although the temperature is high, but the wind blowing from the south of the sea is more humidity, the tea green drying is slower, the production of white tea is easy to appear buds green, stalks black situation.

如果是雨天和大雾天，则均不宜采制。

If it is rainy and foggy, neither should be harvested.

因此，过去白茶的生产受到天气条件、加工场地面积等条件制约，制优率不高，大家不愿意生产。

Therefore, in the past, the production of white tea was constrained by the weather conditions, the area of the processing site, and other conditions, the rate of excellent production was not high, and people were reluctant to produce.

现在采用了室内加温来进行萎凋，有的可以在室内模拟太阳光，甚至通过控温控湿来进行萎凋，避免了天气变化对加工的影响。

Nowadays, indoor heating is used for withering, and some can simulate sunlight indoors, or even by controlling temperature and humidity, avoiding the impact of weather changes on processing.

但市场上还是更认同自然条件下萎凋的白茶。

However, the market still recognizes white tea withered under natural conditions.

白茶的采摘还要看对原料等级的要求。

The picking of white tea also depends on the requirements for the grade of the raw material.

采制银针以春茶的头一、二轮茶的品质最好，其顶芽肥壮，毫心特大。

Silver needle picking to the first one or two rounds of spring tea quality is the best, its top buds fat, hair heart extra large.

到三、四轮后多系侧芽，芽较小，到夏秋季节，茶芽更瘦小，难制高级茶。

After three or four rounds, there are more side buds, smaller buds, and in summer and fall, the tea buds are even thinner and smaller, making it difficult to make high-grade tea.

采制白毫银针，其原料主要以福鼎大毫、福鼎大白、福安大白和政和大白茶品种为主。

White Hair Silver Needle is harvested from Fuding Dahao, Fuding Dabai, Fuan Dabai and Zhenghe Dabai tea varieties.

采时，只在新梢上采下肥壮的单芽，在头轮采的茶芽往往带有“鱼叶”，芽头饱满而且重实，制成白毫银针品质最优。

When picking, only in the new shoots picked off the fat single buds, in the first round of picking tea buds often with "fish leaves", buds full and heavy solid, made of white hair silver needle of the best quality.

也有的采下一芽一、二叶，采回后再行“抽针”。

In some cases, one bud, one or two leaves are picked, and then the needle is drawn after picking.

即以左手拇指和食指轻捏茶身，用右手拇指和食指把叶片向后拗断剥下，把芽与叶分开，芽制白毫银针，叶拼入白牡丹原料。

In other words, the left thumb and forefinger gently pinch the body of the tea, use the right thumb and forefinger to break the leaves backward and peel them off, separating the buds from the leaves; the buds are used to make White Hair Silver Needle, and the leaves are put together to form the White Peony raw material.

采制白牡丹的要求也十分严格，高级白牡丹一般是采大白茶品种一芽一叶初展及一芽二叶初展的细嫩芽叶，也有采摘菜茶和水仙品种的细嫩原料制成。

The requirements for picking white peonies are also very strict. High-grade white peonies are usually made from the tender buds and leaves of the first bud and first leaf of the large white tea varieties, as well as the tender raw materials of the vegetable tea and narcissus varieties.

高级白牡丹的原料要求采得早，采得嫩，一般在清明前后开采。

The raw material for high-grade white peony is harvested early and tender, usually around the time of the Ching Ming Festival.

大多数的白牡丹要求原料嫩度适中，以一芽二叶为主，有的甚至是一芽三叶。

Most white peonies require the raw material to be moderately tender, with mainly one bud and two leaves, and some even one bud and three leaves.

原料过于细嫩，质量好，但产量会降低，采工效率也不高，但如果采的太粗老，成茶的色香味形都会受到影响。

If the raw materials are too tender, the quality will be good, but the yield will be lower and the picking efficiency will not be high, but if the picking is too coarse and old, the color, aroma, flavor and shape of the finished tea will be affected.

贡眉原料主要以菜茶品种为主，采一芽二叶和一芽三叶制成。

Gongmei raw materials are mainly vegetable tea varieties, picking one bud and two leaves and one bud and three leaves made.

菜茶的芽虽小，但也要求有嫩芽才符合产品的规格，所以对夹叶都不适用。

Although the buds of vegetable tea are small, they are required to have young buds in order to meet the specifications of the product, so they are not suitable for the folder leaves.

在贡眉中另单独列有寿眉花色，其品质在贡眉三、四级之间，但在精制时有拼入一部分制大白茶的粗片原料。

In the Gongmei another separate list of Shoumei color, its quality in the Gongmei between the third and fourth level, but in the refining of a part of the production of coarse pieces of raw materials into the large white tea.

寿眉在1953-1954年尚有制造，之后停制，至1959年外销市场又有需要乃恢复寿眉的制造。

 Shoumei was still manufactured in 1953-1954, after which it was discontinued and resumed in 1959 when there was a need for it in the export market.

现在，市场上寿眉的产量最大，而且大多压制成饼茶。

Nowadays, Shou Mei has the largest production in the market, and most of them are pressed into cake tea.

萎凋是白茶加工的“灵魂”，萎凋质量的好坏，直接决定白茶成茶的品质。

Withering is the "soul" of white tea processing, and the quality of withering directly determines the quality of white tea.

萎凋一般是在一定温度、湿度和通风等情况下，伴随叶片水分蒸发和呼吸作用，叶片内含物发生缓慢水解氧化的过程。

Withering is generally a process of slow hydrolysis and oxidation of leaf contents, accompanied by evaporation of leaf water and respiration under certain conditions of temperature, humidity and ventilation.

在此过程中，茶叶挥发青气，增进茶香，发出甜醇的“萎凋香”，这对白茶的品质起着重要的作用。

During this process, the tea leaves volatilize the green gas, enhance the tea flavor, and emit the sweet and mellow "withering aroma", which plays an important role in the quality of white tea.

萎凋方式主要有日光萎凋、室内自然萎凋、加温萎凋和复式萎凋。

The main types of wilting are daylight wilting, indoor natural wilting, heating wilting and double wilting.

如果天气晴朗，福鼎白茶大多采取日光萎凋。

If the weather is sunny, Fuding White Tea mostly adopts sunlight withering.

萎凋时，茶芽均匀地薄摊于篾箅或水筛上。

When withering, the tea buds are spread evenly and thinly on gabion grates or water sieves.

篾箅，是一种长方形的竹编工具，长2.2-22米，宽70-80厘米，利用0.2-0.3厘米宽的篾条编制而成，箅上有缝隙没有孔洞。

Gomer grates, a rectangular bamboo weaving tool, 2.2-22 meters long and 70-80 centimeters wide, are prepared using 0.2- 0.3 centimeter wide gabion strips with slits and no holes in the grates.

这种结构最适合白茶萎凋，茶的上下面都有空气流通，做出的白茶质量就有保证。

This structure is the most suitable for white tea withering, the upper and lower part of the tea has air circulation, and the quality of white tea is guaranteed.

水筛，是一种具有大孔眼的大竹筛，径约100厘米，每孔约为0.5厘米见方，蔑条宽1厘米左右。

Water sieve, a large bamboo sieve with large holes, about 100 cm in diameter, each hole about 0.5 cm square, with a width of about 1 cm.

茶芽摊放勿重叠，因为重叠的部分会变黑，摊好后放在架上，置于日光下进行自然萎凋，不要用手翻动以免茶芽受机械损伤变红，或破坏芽茶上的茸毛；也不可放在地下，以免妨碍空气流通，使萎凋时间延长。

Tea buds spread do not overlap, because the overlap of the part will turn black, after spreading on the shelf, placed in the daylight for natural withering, do not turn over by hand to avoid mechanical damage to the tea buds turn red, or destroy the buds on the hairs of the tea; can not be placed on the ground, so as not to impede the circulation of air, so that the time of withering is prolonged.

萎凋总历时48-72小时不等，制茶师根据经验，观察气候、茶叶走水情况、茶色变化、茶叶的干度等，进行调节。

Withering lasts for 48-72 hours, and the tea maker adjusts the withering according to his experience, observing the climate, water movement of the tea leaves, color changes, and the dryness of the tea leaves, and so on.

政和白茶产区采用室内自然萎凋的较多。

Zhenghe white tea production area adopts more indoor natural withering.

萎凋室要求四面通风，无日光直射，并要防止雨雾侵入，场所必须清洁卫生，且能控制温湿度。

The withering room should be ventilated on all sides, free from direct sunlight and protected from rain and fog, and the place must be clean and hygienic, with temperature and humidity control.

春茶室温要求为20-30℃，通常以25℃上下为宜，相对湿度为55%-70%。

Spring tea room temperature requirements for 20-30 ℃, usually 25 ℃ up and down appropriate, relative humidity of 55% -70%.

夏秋室温控制在30-32℃，相对湿度在60%-75%。

The room temperature is controlled at 30-32°C in summer and fall, with relative humidity at 60-75%.

室内自然萎凋历时52-60小时。

Natural wilting in the room lasts 52-60 hours.

雨天采用室内自然萎凋历时不得超过3天，否则芽叶发霉变黑；在晴朗干燥的天气萎凋历时不得少于2天，否则成茶有青气，滋味带涩，品质不佳。

On rainy days, the indoor natural withering time should not be more than 3 days, otherwise the buds and leaves will become moldy and black; in sunny and dry weather, the withering time should not be less than 2 days, otherwise the finished tea will be green and astringent in taste, and the quality is not good.

由于自然萎凋所需时间较长，占用厂房面积大，所需设备较多，并受自然气候条件的影响，不适于大量生产，应用范围受限。

Due to the long time required for natural withering, the large area of the plant, the large amount of equipment required, and the influence of natural climatic conditions, it is not suitable for mass production, and the scope of application is limited.

开筛鲜叶进厂后要求老嫩严格分开，及时分别萎凋。

Open sieve Fresh leaves are required to be strictly separated from the old and young after entering the factory, and withered in time.

白茶萎凋时把鲜叶摊放在水筛上，俗称“开筛”或者“开青”。

When white tea is withered, the fresh leaves are spread on a sieve of water, commonly known as "open sieve" or "open green".

开筛方法：叶子放在水筛后，两手持水筛边缘转动，使叶均匀散开，开筛技术好的一筛即成，且摊叶均匀，其动作要求迅速、轻快，切勿反复筛摇，防止茶叶机械损伤。

Open sieve method: leaves on the water sieve, two hands holding the edge of the water sieve rotation, so that the leaves evenly spread, open sieve technology is good a sieve, and spread the leaf uniformity, the action requires rapid, brisk, do not repeatedly sieve shaking, to prevent mechanical damage to the tea leaves.

由于开筛的技术要求高，也可以用手将鲜叶抖撒在水筛上或者竹帘上，但动作要轻柔。

As sieving is technically demanding, it is also possible to shake the fresh leaves by hand onto a sieve of water or a bamboo curtain, but with a gentle movement.

每筛摊叶量，春茶为0.8公斤左右，夏秋茶为0.5公斤左右。

The amount of leaf spread per sieve is about 0.8 kilograms for spring tea and 0.5 kilograms for summer and fall tea.

摊好叶子后，将水筛置于萎凋室晾青架上，不可翻动。

After spreading the leaves, place the water sieve on the drying rack in the withering room and do not turn it over.

在室内自然萎凋过程中，要进行一次“并筛”，也叫“修衣”，主要目的是促进叶缘垂卷，使水分均匀，减缓失水速度，促进转色。

In the indoor natural withering process, to carry out a "and sieve", also known as "repair clothes", the main purpose is to promote the leaf edge hanging volume, so that the water is uniform, slow down the rate of water loss, and promote the color change.

“并筛”的时间一般是：白茶萎凋时间为35-45小时，萎凋至七八成时，叶片不贴筛，芽毫色发白，叶色由浅绿转为灰绿色或深绿，叶缘略重卷，芽叶与嫩梗呈“翘尾”，叶态如船底状，嗅之无青气，即可进行“并筛”。

The time of "and sieve" is generally: the withering time of white tea is 35-45 hours, when the withering is up to 70% or 80%, the leaves do not stick to the sieve, the buds and hairs are whitish, and the color of the leaves turns from light green to grayish-green or dark green, the edge of the leaves is slightly re-curled, and the buds and leaves and the young stalks are "cocked", and the state of the leaves is like a ship's bottom. The leaf shape is like the bottom of a ship, and the smell is not green, then it is ready to be "sifted together".

小白茶为八成干时两筛并一筛。

Small white tea is two sieves and one sieve when 80% dry.

大白茶并筛一般分二次进行，七成干时两筛并一筛，待八成干时，再两筛并一筛。

Dabai tea and sieve generally divided into two times, 70% dry two sieve and a sieve, to be 80% dry, and then two sieve and a sieve.

并筛后，把萎凋叶堆成厚度10-15厘米的凹状。

After sieving, the withered leaves are piled up into concave piles 10-15 centimeters thick.

中低级白茶则采用“堆放”，也叫“渥堆”，闽北低等级白茶通常会采用这种方式。

Low and medium grade white tea is "stacked", also known as "Wo heap", which is usually used for low grade white tea in northern Fujian.

堆放时应掌握萎凋叶含水量与堆放厚度，萎凋叶含水量不低于20％，否则不能“转色”。

Stacking should be mastered withering leaf moisture content and stacking thickness, withering leaf moisture content is not less than 20%, otherwise it can not "turn color".

堆放厚度视含水量多少而定：含水量在30％左右，堆放厚度为10厘米；含水量在25%左右，堆放厚度为20-30厘米。

The thickness of the pile depends on the moisture content: for a moisture content of about 30%, the thickness of the pile is 10 cm; for a moisture content of about 25%, the thickness of the pile is 20-30 cm.

并筛后仍放置于晾青架上，继续进行萎凋。

After sieving, it is still placed on the green drying rack and continues to be withered.

一般并筛后12-14小时，梗脉水分大为减少，叶片微软，叶色转为灰绿，达九成五干时，就可下筛拣剔。

Generally and sieve after 12-14 hours, the stalks and veins of water is greatly reduced, leaf Microsoft, leaf color to gray-green, up to ninety-five percent dry, you can pick under the sieve.

拣剔时动作要轻，防止芽叶断碎。

Be gentle when picking to prevent the buds and leaves from breaking.

毛茶等级愈高，对拣剔的要求愈严格。

The higher the grade of the tea, the stricter the requirements for picking.

制高级白牡丹时应拣去蜡叶、黄片、红张、粗老叶和杂物；制一级白牡丹时应剔除蜡叶、红张、梗片和杂物；制二级白牡丹时只剔除红张和杂物；制三级白牡丹时仅拣去梗片和杂物；制低等级白茶时拣去非茶类夹杂物。

When making high grade white peony, wax leaves, yellow flakes, red flakes, coarse and old leaves and debris should be removed; when making first grade white peony, wax leaves, red flakes, stem flakes and debris should be removed; when making second grade white peony, only red flakes and debris should be removed; when making third grade white peony, only stem flakes and debris should be removed; and when making low grade white tea, non-tea inclusions should be removed.

春茶期如遇阴雨连绵，必须采用加温萎凋，可采用管道加温或萎凋槽加温萎凋。

Spring tea period in case of continuous rain, must be used to heat withering, can be used pipeline heating or withering trough heating withering.

管道加温是在专门的“白茶管道萎凋室”内进行。

Pipeline heating is carried out in a special "white tea pipeline withering room".

白茶热风萎凋由加温炉灶、排气设备、萎凋帘、萎凋鲜架等四部分组成。

The hot air withering of white tea is composed of four parts: heating stove, exhaust equipment, withering curtain, and withering fresh rack.

萎凋室外设热风发生炉，热空气通过管道均匀地散发到室内，使萎凋室温度上升。

Withering room outside the hot air furnace, hot air through the pipeline evenly distributed to the room, so that the withering room temperature rise.

一般萎凋房面积为300平米，可搭架排放萎凋帘1200个。

A typical wilting room is 300 square meters in size and can hold up to 1200 wilting curtains.

萎凋帘由竹蔑编成，长2.5米，宽0.8米，每个萎凋帘可放茶青1.8-2公斤。

The withering curtains are made of bamboo scissors, 2.5 meters long and 0.8 meters wide, and each withering curtain can hold 1.8-2 kilograms of tea green.

萎凋房前后各安装2台排气扇，以确保热风萎调房通风排气状况良好，特别要注意的是进风与排气都是在近地面处。

Two exhaust fans are installed at the front and back of the withering room to ensure that the ventilation and exhaust of the hot-air withering room are in good condition, and special attention should be paid to the fact that the air intake and exhaust are near the ground.

室内温度控制在29-35℃，相对湿度为65%-75%。

The room temperature is controlled at 29-35°C and the relative humidity is 65%-75%.

萎凋室切忌高温密闭，以免嫩芽和叶缘失水过快，梗脉水分补充不上，叶内理化变化不足，芽叶干枯变红。

The withering room should not be closed at high temperature, so as to avoid rapid water loss of the shoots and leaf margins, the water of the stalks and veins can not be replenished, and the physicochemical changes in the leaves are insufficient, so that the shoots and leaves dry up and turn red.

一般热风萎凋历时18-24小时，采用连续加温方式萎凋，温度由低到高，再由高到低，即开始加温1-6小时内室内温度控制在29-31℃，加温7-12小时室内温度控制在32-35℃，加温13-18小时室内温度控制在30-32℃，加温18-24小时室内温度控制在29-30℃。

Generally, the hot air withering lasts 18-24 hours, and adopts continuous heating method of withering, the temperature is from low to high, and then from high to low, i.e. the indoor temperature is controlled at 29-31℃ in the beginning of heating for 1-6 hours, the indoor temperature is controlled at 32-35℃ in the heating for 7-12 hours, the indoor temperature is controlled at 30-32℃ in the heating for 13-18 hours, and the indoor temperature is controlled at 29-30℃ in the heating for 18-24 hours. 30℃.

当萎凋叶含水量在16%-20%，叶片不贴筛，茶叶毫色发白，叶色由浅绿转为深绿，芽尖与嫩梗显翘尾。

When the water content of withered leaves is 16%-20%, the leaves do not stick to the sieve, the hair color of the tea leaves is whitish, the leaf color changes from light green to dark green, and the bud tips and young stalks show the cocked tail.

叶缘略带垂卷，叶色呈波纹状，青气消失、茶香显露时，即可结束白茶萎凋。

The withering of white tea can be ended when the edge of the leaf is slightly drooping and curling, the color of the leaf is rippled, the green gas disappears, and the aroma of the tea is revealed.

热风萎调不但可以解决白茶雨天萎凋的困难，而且可以缩短萎凋时间，充分利用萎凋设备，提高生产效率。

Hot air withering adjustment can not only solve the difficulties of white tea withering in rainy days, but also shorten the withering time, make full use of the withering equipment and improve the production efficiency.

但由于白茶萎凋时间偏短，内含物化学变化还尚未完成，为了弥补这一不足，对白茶萎凋叶还要进行一定时间的堆积后熟处理。

However, due to the short withering time of white tea, the chemical change of the contents has not been completed, in order to make up for this shortcoming, the withered leaves of white tea should also be piled up for a certain period of time after ripening treatment.

具体做法是：将萎凋叶装入篓中，蓬松堆积，堆积厚度约为25-35厘米，堆中温度控制在22-25℃，堆中温度不能过高，以免因温度过高而使萎凋叶变红，若茶叶含水量过低则要增加堆高度，或装入布袋中，或装入竹筐。

Specific practice is: the withered leaves into the basket, fluffy pile, pile thickness of about 25-35 cm, pile temperature control at 22-25 ℃, pile temperature can not be too high, so as not to make the withered leaves red because of the high temperature, if the tea leaves are too low in water content to increase the height of the heap, or into a cloth bag, or into a bamboo basket.

堆积后熟处理，历时2-5小时，有的甚至达几天，待到萎调叶嫩梗和叶主脉变为浅红棕色，叶片色泽由碧绿转为暗绿或灰绿，青臭气散失，茶叶清香显露时即可进行干燥，固定品质。

Pile up after ripening treatment, lasted 2-5 hours, some even up to a few days, until the shriveled leaves tender peduncle and the main veins of the leaves become light reddish-brown, the color of the leaves from turquoise to dark green or grey-green, the green odor is dissipated, the tea leaves clear aroma is revealed when you can be drying, fixing the quality.

干燥温度掌握在100-105℃，摊叶厚度为3-4厘米，时间为8-10分钟。

The drying temperature is 100- 105℃, the thickness of leaf spreading is 3-4 centimeters, and the time is 8-10 minutes.

萎凋槽萎凋方法与工夫红茶相同，但温度低些，大约在30℃，摊叶厚度也要薄些，通常在20-25厘米，全程历时12-16小时。

The withering method of the withering tank is the same as that of Gongfu black tea, but the temperature is lower, about 30℃, and the thickness of the spreading leaves is thinner, usually 20-25cm, and the whole process lasts 12-16 hours.

萎凋后仍然上架继续摊晾萎凋。

After wilting, they remain on the shelf to continue to dry and wilt.

春季遇有晴天，可采用白茶复式萎凋法，所谓的复式萎凋就是将日光萎凋与室内自然萎凋相结合，一般“大白”与“水仙白”在春茶谷雨前后采用此法，对加速水分蒸发和提高茶汤醇度有一定作用。

When there is a sunny day in spring, you can use the white tea double withering method, the so-called double withering is the combination of daylight withering and indoor natural withering, generally "big white" and "daffodil white" in the spring before and after the rain to use this method, to accelerate water evaporation and improve the mellowness of the tea broth has a certain effect. It has a certain effect on accelerating water evaporation and improving the mellowness of tea broth.

复式萎凋全程进行2-4次，日照历时1-2小时。

Compound wilting was performed 2-4 times throughout the process, with daylight lasting 1-2 hours.

其方法是选择早晨和傍晚阳光微弱时将鲜叶置于阳光下轻晒，日照次数和每次日照时间的长短应以温湿度的高低而定，一般春茶初期，在室外温度25℃，相对湿度63%的条件下，每次晒25-30分钟，晒至叶片微热时移入萎凋室内萎凋，待叶温下降后再进行日照，如此反复2-4次。

The method is to choose the morning and evening sunlight when the sunlight is weak will be placed in the sunlight of the fresh leaves light sunshine, the number of sunshine and the length of each sunshine time should be the temperature and humidity of the high and low depending on the general early spring tea, in the outdoor temperature of 25 ℃, relative humidity of 63% of the conditions of the sunshine for 25-30 minutes each time, sunshine to the leaf blade is slightly hot moved into the withering withering room, to be after the leaf temperature drops and then sunshine, and so on for 2-4 times.

春茶中期，在室外温度30℃，相对湿度57%的条件下，日照时间以15-20分钟为宜；春茶后期，在室外温度30℃的条件下，日照时间以10-15分钟为宜，夏季因气温高，阳光强烈，不宜采用复式萎凋。

Spring tea in the middle, at an outdoor temperature of 30 ℃, relative humidity of 57% of the conditions, the sunshine time to 15-20 minutes appropriate; spring tea in the late spring, at an outdoor temperature of 30 ℃, the sunshine time to 10-15 minutes appropriate, summer because of the high temperature, sunshine is strong, should not be used withering compound.

白茶的干燥可以用焙笼来烘焙，也可以用烘干机来干燥。

White tea can be dried either in a roasting cage or in a dryer.

焙笼烘焙是传统的白茶干燥法，主要用于自然萎凋和复式萎凋的白茶生产，分一次烘焙和两次烘焙两种方式，当萎凋叶达到九成干的时候，采取一次烘焙，每焙笼1-1.5公斤，温度掌握在70-80℃，烘焙时间为15-20分钟。

Baking cage baking is the traditional white tea drying method, mainly used for natural withering and compound withering white tea production, divided into one baking and two baking two ways, when the withered leaf reaches ninety percent dry, to take a baking, each baking cage 1-1.5 kilograms, the temperature is mastered in the 70-80 ° C, the baking time is 15-20 minutes.

萎凋叶达七八成干的时候，采取两次烘焙，初焙用明火，温度在100℃左右，每笼的摊叶量在0.75-1.0公斤，历时10-15分钟，干度达到八九成干时摊晾，0.5-1小时后重新进行复焙。

Withered leaves up to 70% to 80% dry, take two baking, the first baking with open fire, the temperature at about 100 ℃, the amount of leaves per cage in the 0.75-1.0 kilograms, lasted 10-15 minutes, the dryness reached 80% to 90% dry when drying, 0.5-1 hours after re-roasting.

复焙用暗火，温度在80℃，历时10-15分钟，烘至足干。

Re-roasting Use dark fire at 80℃ for 10-15 minutes until dry.

烘焙过程中，需要数次翻拌。

Several tosses are required during the baking process.

现在大批量的生产，更多是采用烘干机烘焙，萎凋叶达九成干的时候，烘干机的风温掌握在70-80℃，摊叶的厚度为4厘米，历时20分钟左右，一次烘焙就可以了。

Now the mass production, more is the use of dryer baking, withered leaves up to 90% dry, dryer air temperature mastered at 70-80 ℃, spread the thickness of the leaf is 4 cm, lasted about 20 minutes, a baking can be.

干度达到六七成千的时候分两次烘焙。

When the dryness reaches 60 or 70%, bake in two batches.

初焙风温在90-100℃，摊叶厚度为4厘米，历时10分钟左右进行摊晾0.5-1小时，之后进行复焙，复焙风温80-90℃，摊叶厚度为4厘米，历时20分钟至足干。

The initial roasting wind temperature is 90-100℃, the thickness of leaf spreading is 4 centimeters, and it lasts about 10 minutes to spread drying for 0.5-1 hour, and then re-roasting is carried out, and the re-roasting wind temperature is 80-90℃, the thickness of leaf spreading is 4 centimeters, and it lasts about 20 minutes to full dryness.

另外，加工的白茶直到2000年以前，基本都只有散茶。

Also, processed white tea was basically only loose tea until 2000.

白茶饼这种形式是在2006年以后才大行其道的，到现在已占据了白茶市场的大半江山，成为一支新兴力量。

This form of white tea cake was popularized only after 2006, and now it has occupied most of the white tea market, becoming an emerging force.

那么这一个白茶饼里，究竟隐藏了多少奥秘？又如何解读这其中的种种信息密码呢？请看下一篇。

How many mysteries are hidden in this white tea cake? And how to decipher the information code? Please see the next article.

兴业茶厂从开办至今一直以生产白牡丹、水仙白和贡眉为主。

Since its opening, Xingye Tea Factory has been focusing on the production of White Peony, Daffodil White and Gongmei.

而漳墩虽是贡眉原产地，但贡眉的茶青来源却总让叶赞喜犯愁：“做贡眉‘小白’要当地的菜茶。

Although Zhangdun is the Gongmei origin, but the Gongmei source of tea green but always let Ye Zanxi worry: "do Gongmei 'small white' to the local vegetable tea.

但是你看这些年，一开始大家不愿意种茶，到后来白茶销路好转了，漳墩的茶园又都改种福安大白，因为它一亩能达到几百斤的产量，而小菜茶一亩只有五六十斤的产量，效益根本没法比。

But you see these years, at the beginning, we are reluctant to plant tea, to later white tea sales improved, Zhangdun tea plantations and changed to plant Fuan Dabai, because it can reach several hundred pounds per acre of production, while the small vegetable tea acre only fifty or sixty pounds of production, the benefits are not comparable.

而且用大白茶制成的产品卖相好，出口时更受欢迎，所以前些年，茶农陆续挖了自家的菜茶改种大白茶。

Moreover, the products made of Dabai tea are good in appearance and more popular when exported, so some years ago, tea farmers dug up their own vegetable tea one after another and planted Dabai tea instead.

我们漳墩现有福安大白茶七八千亩，小菜茶恐怕就只有千亩左右。

We Zhangdun existing Fuan big white tea seven or eight thousand acres, I'm afraid only a thousand acres of small dish tea.

更可惜的是，像贡眉白茶的原产地南坑，茶园已经很少了。

What's more, unfortunately, there are very few tea plantations left in Nankeng, the place of origin of Gongmei White Tea.

由于福鼎白茶的市场推动，近些年，整个中国的白茶由全部外销渐渐发展到国内热销。

As a result of the market promotion of Fuding white tea, in recent years, the whole of China's white tea has gradually developed from all export sales to domestic sales.

这也带动了政和白茶和建阳白茶的重新崛起。

This has also led to the re-emergence of Zhenghe white tea and Jianyang white tea.

而建阳白茶的传统优势品种贡眉和水仙白，在恢复中正努力地发展。

The traditional advantageous varieties of Jianyang white tea, Gongmei and Shuishenbai, are struggling to develop in the recovery.

我们在兴业茶厂的二楼办公室，一字排开老叶今年做的白茶，吴麟认真地抓起茶叶，先看外形，然后开汤审评。

We are in the second floor office of the Xingye Tea Factory, lined up the white tea made by Lao Ye this year, Wu Lin seriously grabbed the tea, first look at the shape, and then open the soup review.

他给我们讲解建阳贡眉和水仙白生产的技术要点：“建阳地区的大白茶以水仙白为主，但是因为受到自然天气条件和生产工艺、生产设备的约束，基本属于靠天吃饭的状态。

He explained to us the technical points of production of Jianyang Gongmei and Shui Xian Bai: "Jianyang region's large white tea is dominated by Shui Xian Bai, but because of the constraints imposed by the natural weather conditions and production processes, production equipment, basically belongs to the state of living off the sky.

比如说到了春季，今年天气好，做出的茶叶就很漂亮；如果天气不好，茶叶就黑黑红红的很不好看。

For example, in the spring, this year's weather is good, the tea will be very beautiful; if the weather is not good, the tea will be black, red, red and very unattractive.

相对而言，贡眉因为叶张薄，比较好控制一点，而水仙茶的叶张、芽头中的水分要比一般茶叶的含水量高，做茶叶就很难。

Comparatively speaking, Gongmei is better controlled because of its thin leaves, while the water content in the leaves and buds of Shui Xian tea is higher than that of normal tea, making it difficult to make tea.

过去制作水仙白最大的问题是什么？容易发黄。

What was the biggest problem with making daffodil whites in the past? It was prone to yellowing.

所以在吴麟和他更上一代人的经验里，水仙白往往呈现偏黄绿色的特征，就是因为当年没有理想的工艺去处理。

Therefore, in the experience of Wu Lin and his predecessors, Narcissus White tends to have a yellowish-greenish coloration because the process was not ideal for it.

他笑了笑说：“现在水仙白做出来的颜色就好多了，因为有了现代工艺的技术，比如抽湿和加温萎凋，可控制在一定的时间内让它的水分尽快散失。

He smiled and said: "Now the color of the white daffodil is much better, because of modern technology, such as humidification and heating withering, can be controlled within a certain period of time so that its moisture as soon as possible to dissipate.

而过去做不到，所以做出的白茶偏黄。

In the past, it was not possible to do so, so the white tea was yellowish.

从2014年开始，建阳政府专门拨款对白茶工艺进行恢复，吴麟作为主要专家，负责水仙白恢复传统工艺的试制任务，已获成功。

Starting from 2014, Jianyang government specifically allocated funds for the restoration of the white tea process, Wu Lin, as the main expert, is responsible for Shui Shien white restoration of the traditional process of trial production tasks, has been successful.

在与我们的交流中，他表示目前建阳水仙白的发展势头很好，像叶赞喜的茶厂，一年生产量能达到几千担。

During our exchange, he said that the current development of Jianyang Shui Shien Bai is very good, like Ye Zhanxi's tea factory, the production volume can reach several thousand quintals a year.

这一方面是因为设备的改进提高了茶叶品质，另一方面还是内外销的形势近年不断转好所带来的市场结果。

This is partly due to the improvement of the equipment to improve the quality of tea leaves, and partly due to the market result of the continuous improvement of the domestic and international sales situation in recent years.

在总结水仙白的口感特征时，吴麟的观点是：“你别看水仙白制作的白牡丹和其他品种制作的白牡丹外形看起来相似，它的口感和回甘程度却优于其他品种制作的白牡丹，有一种很爽口的清甜感，特别是做好之后放一段时间，味道更好。

In summarizing the taste characteristics of Daffodil White, Wu Lin says, "Although the white peonies made from Daffodil White look similar to those made from other varieties, their taste and sweetness are superior to those made from other varieties, with a refreshing sweetness, especially when left for a period of time after preparation.

而这是由水仙茶的品种特征所决定的。

And this is determined by the varietal characteristics of Shui Xian tea.

2016年春天的雨水特别多，让叶赞喜很是为难，因为他一年中虽做春、夏、秋三季茶，但主要的收益来自春茶。

The spring of 2016 was particularly rainy, making it difficult for Ye Zanxi, because although he does spring, summer and fall tea in a year,the main revenue comes from spring tea.

“像这几天这种阴雨天气，我们用传统方法做贡眉一般要晾七天才会干，做水仙白又担心会红掉。

"Like these days of rainy weather, we use the traditional method to do Gongmei generally need to dry for seven days before drying, to do Narcissus white and worried about the red off.

他有些无奈地解释道。

He explained somewhat reluctantly.

而这段时间也正是老叶最忙的时候，每天清晨五点半就起床，到晚上十点半以后才能休息。

And this is also the busiest time for Lao Ye, who gets up at 5:30 in the morning and can't rest until after 10:30 at night.

做了几十年的茶，老叶说虽然做茶远没有做其他生意赚钱，但对出身农民、祖祖辈辈都只会做茶的他来说，每天只要摸到茶叶就觉得心里舒服。

Doing decades of tea, Lao Ye said that although doing tea is far from doing other business to make money, but for the origin of farmers, grandparents will only do tea for him, every day as long as the touch of the tea leaves will feel comfortable.

老叶的徒弟也是他的女婿，跟在他身边二十多年了，两个人配合很默契。

Old Ye's disciple is also his son-in-law, who has been with him for more than twenty years, and the two of them work very well together.

老叶自己负责把关生产，女婿则负责收购毛茶、联系业务以及运货。

Lao Ye himself is in charge of production, while his son-in-law is in charge of purchasing the gross tea, contacting the business and transporting the goods.

他们的生活就像中国千千万万的农民一样，在日复一日的单调活动中消逝。

Their lives, like those of millions of farmers in China, pass in the monotony of day-to-day activities.

曾经在外销市场红极一时的建阳白茶，如今在中国白茶几大主产区中的市场占有率却是最低的，这是一个摆在这个从“北苑贡茶”开始就名声响亮的古老茶区面前的难题。

Once in the export market red hot Jianyang white tea, now in China's white tea in several major producing areas in the market share is the lowest, this is a pendulum in the "Beiyuan Tribute Tea" from the beginning of the reputation of the old tearegionin front of the difficult problem.

悠悠一千多年的建茶岁月，像兴业茶厂楼下的河水一样从我们面前流过，风声树影中，却不见当年的建阳人熊蕃父子在撰写《宣和北苑贡茶录》时的怡然。

Long more than a thousand years to build tea years, like the Xingye Tea Factory downstairs like the river flowing past us, the wind sound and shadow of trees, but did not see when the Jianyang Xiongfan father and son in the writing of "Xuanhe Beiyuan Tribute Tea Records," when the pleasure.

中国白茶，肇始于富贵、兴盛于风雨、改革在红色峥嵘的岁月，走遍了世界的许多国家和地区。

Chinese white tea, started in the rich, flourished in the wind and rain, reformed in the red lofty years, traveled to many countries and regions of the world.

尤其是在海外华人的记忆里，有着独特功能的白茶，是他们漂洋过海时的一份慰藉。

Especially in the memories of overseas Chinese, white tea with unique functions is a comfort for them when they traveled across the ocean.

在2012年3月，“建阳白茶”商标经国家工商总局认定为地理标志证明商标，既实现了建阳市地理标志证明商标零的突破，也让建阳人重拾对建茶的信心。

In March 2012, "Jianyang white tea" trademark by the State Administration for Industry and Commerce recognized as a geographical indication certification mark, not only realized the Jianyang City, geographical indication certification mark zero breakthrough, but also let Jianyang people regain confidence in Jian tea.

此番情景，若是一生嗜茶的朱熹重回人间看到，是否又该吟一首新时代的饮茶诗呢？我们在本书第一章已经说过，传统的中国白茶是指白毫银针、白牡丹、贡眉、寿眉和水仙白，但同时，就在20世纪60年代末，由于国家茶叶出口创汇的需要，位于闽东的福鼎为适应港澳市场的需求，曾专门投入研发经费和组织技术人员，研制出了与各类传统白茶都不相同的新工艺白茶。

If Zhu Xi, a lifelong tea lover, were to come back to earth, would he recite a poem on tea drinking in the new era? As we have said in the first chapter of this book, the traditional Chinese white tea refers to White Hair Silver Needle, White Peony, Gongmei, Shoumei and Shui Xian Bai, but at the same time, at the end of 1960's, due to the need of the national tea exporting to create foreign exchange, Fuding, located in the east of Fujian Province, in order to adapt to the market demand of Hong Kong and Macao, had invested in research and development and organized technicians to develop a new process of white tea which is not the same as all kinds of traditional white teas.

很多人至今对新工艺白茶的认识多有不清，更不了解它的问世是代表着一个特殊而不会再现的时代。

Many people still do not have a clear understanding of the new white tea, not to mention that its introduction represents a special era that will not be reproduced.

我叫王亦森，福州人，今年86岁。

My name is Wang Yisen, a native of Fuzhou, 86 years old.

1952年时我22岁，响应号召自愿到边远山区支援经济建设，由福州市劳动局介绍到省贸易公司，之后被分配到福鼎茶厂。

In 1952, when I was 22 years old, I responded to the call to voluntarily go to the remote mountainous areas to support economic construction, and was introduced to the Provincial Trade Company by the Fuzhou Municipal Labor Bureau, and then assigned to the Fuding Tea Factory.

1953年，我被福鼎茶厂安排到白琳茶叶初制厂，从事茶叶初制的技术研究工作。

In 1953, I was arranged by Fuding Tea Factory to Bai Lin Tea Primary Factory, engaged in the technical research work of tea primary production.

我记得当时省里还在办茶师培训班，像国内早就知名的张天福、庄任等一批专家，都在培训班讲课。

I remember at that time the province was also running a training course for tea masters, and a group of experts, such as Zhang Tianfu and Zhuang Ren, who had long been well known in China, were lecturing in the training course.

2016年4月中旬，我们在福鼎乡间的一处茶叶加工厂里，见到了刚刚午睡起身、已经86岁的原福鼎白琳茶厂副厂长王亦森。

In mid-April 2016, we met Wang Yisen, the 86-year-old deputy director of the former Fuding Bailin Tea Factory, who had just gotten up from a nap at a tea processing plant in the countryside of Fuding.

他是中国新工艺白茶的创始执行人，也是当时一起研究新工艺白茶课题的专家组人员中唯一健在的人。

He is the founding executive of China's new technology white tea, and the only surviving member of the expert group that worked together on the new technology white tea project at that time.

老人精神很好，他中等身材、面色红润、腰板挺得笔直，说起话来声音洪亮、思路清晰，一点不像80多岁的人。

The old man's spirit is very good, he is medium-sized, rosy-colored, straight-backed, and speaks with a loud voice and clear thoughts, not at all like a person of more than 80 years of age.

在得知我们的来意后，他很是激动：中国白茶是个大家庭，应对其有个统一和全面的认识，现在的年轻人应该知道。

After learning our intention, he was very excited: Chinese white tea is a big family, there should be a unified and comprehensive understanding of it, and young people should now know.

像我们这一代人，经历过逃难、饥荒、战争和长期的计划管制，哪里想到会有今天的百花齐放。

People of my generation, who have experienced flight, famine, war and long-term planning and control, could not have imagined that today's flowers would blossom.

王奕森从最火热的革命年代开始回忆。

Wang Yisen begins his recollections with the hottest revolutionary years.

作为福州知青，他刚来到福鼎时并不了解茶，也不太会做茶，但是在一个50年代爱国青年的思想意识里，他觉得自己干一行就要爱一行，于是在白琳茶厂一干就是几十年。

As a youth in Fuzhou, he just came to Fuding did not understand tea, and not very good at making tea, but in the ideology of a patriotic young man in the 1950s, he felt that he should love what he does, and so he worked for decades in the Bailin Tea Factory.

说到王奕森所在的白琳茶厂，其前身是中国茶业总公司福建省分公司于1950年4月在白琳康山广泰茶行建设的福鼎县茶厂。

Speaking of Wang Yisen's Bailin Tea Factory, its predecessor was the Fuding County Tea Factory built by the Fujian Branch of China Tea Industry Corporation in April 1950 in Bailin Kangshan Guangtai Tea House.

因为在1950年10月，该厂迁址到福鼎南校场观音阁，原厂址就改为福鼎白琳茶叶初制厂。

Because in October 1950, the factory moved to the Fuding South School Ground Guanyin Pavilion, the original factory site was changed to Fuding Bailin Tea Primary Manufacturing Factory.

而白琳茶厂当时和福安分厂、政和制茶所、星村制茶所、武夷直属制茶所等福建省茶业各分厂以及制茶所一起，属于建国前就创立的福建示范茶厂，大名鼎鼎的张天福则是福建示范茶厂的首任厂长。

At that time, Bailin Tea Factory, together with Fu'an Branch Factory, Zhenghe Tea Factory, Xingcun Tea Factory, Wuyi Tea Factory, etc., belonged to Fujian Demonstration Tea Factory, which was established before the founding of the PRC, and the famous Zhang Tianfu was the first factory director of Fujian Demonstration Tea Factory.

建国后茶叶归国家统管。

After the founding of the country tea under the state control.

我记得1952年的公告，说绿茶不能做，白茶不能做，各厂全部做红茶，而且做了红茶以后任何人不能私自买卖，都要交给国家销售。

I remember the announcement in 1952, saying that green tea could not be made, white tea could not be made, and all factories would make black tea, and that no one could buy or sell black tea privately after it was made, and it had to be handed over to the state for sale.

那时粮食是国家一类物资，茶叶属于二类物资，谁也不敢动。

At that time, food was a class of national materials, tea belonged to the second class of materials, no one dared to move.

我们茶厂的职工要想买两斤茶给家里人喝，都要经过上级管理部门的批准。

If a tea factory employee wants to buy two pounds of tea for his family, he has togetapproval from the higher management.

差不多有十年的时间，因为中国红茶生产销售被上升到了国家战略的高度，所以政府对茶叶管制严格，品种也单一。

For almost ten years, because the production and sale of black tea in China was elevated to the level of a national strategy, the government imposed strict controls on tea, and the varieties of tea were unitary.

王奕森和他的工友们按照上级的要求，安排各项生产工作。

Wang Yisen and his workers arrange all production work according to the requirements of their superiors.

白琳茶厂的历史性转折出现在1962年。

The historic turnaround of Bailin Tea Factory occurred in 1962.

由于在20世纪60年代初，我国与苏联的外交关系破裂，中国红茶失去了出口市场，面临滞销，使得茶叶生产结构的调整势在必行。

Due to the breakdown of diplomatic relations between China and the Soviet Union in the early 1960s, Chinese black tea lost its export market and faced stagnant sales, making it imperative to adjust the structure of tea production.

作为中国茶叶品种最丰富、生产历史也相当悠久的茶叶大省，福建省相关部门的各级茶叶专家相当重视这个问题，对生产调整的讨论和安排工作尤其重视。

As a major tea province with the richest variety of tea in China and a long history of tea production, tea experts at all levels in the relevant departments in Fujian Province have attached considerable importance to this issue, and have paid particular attention to the discussion and organization of production adjustments.

当时白琳茶厂要转型，那做什么茶好？我们原本是更倾向于生产绿茶的，因为福鼎的绿茶质量一直不错。

At that time, Bailin Tea Factory wanted to transform, what kind of tea should we make? We were originally more inclined to produce green tea because the quality of Fuding green tea has always been good.

但省外贸的专家同志建议我们生产白茶，并成立外贸出口基地，因为当时外贸出口的白茶不够。

However, the expert comrades of the provincial foreign trade suggested us to produce white tea and set up a base for foreign trade export, because the white tea for foreign trade export was not enough at that time.

不够的原因在哪里呢？因为传统的白茶生产就是靠天吃饭，主要销售市场在香港和东南亚，偏偏他们的订单又不太稳定，使福建白茶的生产要考虑一个问题，即如果订单多了赶上天气不好就完不成订单，订单少了赶上好天气茶叶又会被积压。

What is the reason for the inadequacy? Because the traditional white tea production is to rely on the weather to eat, the main sales market in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, but their orders are not too stable, so that the production of white tea in Fujian has to consider a problem, that is, if the order is more to catch up with the weather is not good will not be able to complete the order, the order lessto catch up with thegood weather and tea will be backlogged.

我们必须提高机械控制程度，生产一款“不用靠天吃饭”的白茶。

We have to improve the degree of mechanical control to produce a white tea that "doesn't depend on the sky".

这个任务后来被派给了白琳茶厂。

This task was later assigned to the Bailin Tea Factory.

王奕森告诉我们。

Eason Wang told us.

1962年，王奕森第一次试制“不用靠天吃饭”的白茶。

In 1962, Wang Yisen for the first time to try to produce "do not have to rely on the sky to eat" white tea.

他和他的工友们是边生产、边试验、边研究，绞尽脑汁做了好几批白茶都不成功，心里很是苦恼。

He and his fellow workersare the sideproduction, experiments, research, racking their brains to do several batches of white tea are not successful, the heart is very distressed.

后来有一次，他做了一个实验：让两名女工调整机器上的皮带，本来茶叶放进去7分钟就出来，他尝试把皮带环放小，慢慢走。

Then one time, he did an experiment: he asked two female workers to adjust the belt on the machine, which was supposed to take seven minutes for the tea to come out, and he tried to make the belt loop smaller and go slowly.

20分钟后将火全部灭掉，用火底来烘，温度控制在60℃左右，让这两名女工把茶叶摊得薄薄地转出来。

After 20 minutes, the fire is extinguished and the tea is roasted at the bottom of the fire, at a temperature of about 60°C, so that the two women workers can spread the tea leaves thinly and turn them out.

实验结束，王奕森一看，这批茶叶颜色很理想，试喝后口感清香，马上就带工人正式生产了一批。

The end of the experiment, Wang Yisen look, the batch of tea color is ideal, after tasting the taste of fragrant, immediately brought workers to formally produce a batch.

同时又赶紧从这批茶样中包装了两罐。

At the same time, we hurriedly packed two cans of tea samples from this batch.

之后他步行两天，将两罐茶送到福州。

He then walked for two days to deliver two cans of tea to Fuzhou.

那是1962年4月，王奕森在清明前做了这批茶样，之后便安排正式生产。

It was April 1962, Wang Yisen made the tea samples before the Qingming Festival, and then arranged the official production.

那时候白琳茶厂有三部干燥机，专门抽了一部出来做白茶，到春茶结束时，一共做了十几担茶叶（大约1500斤）。

At that time, there were three dryers in Bai Lin Tea Factory, and one of them was dedicated to making white tea, and by the end of spring tea, a total of more than ten quintals of tea (about 1,500 pounds) had been made.

茶叶做好以后，白琳茶厂的工人马上装箱送到外贸专车，同时带样。

After the tea is ready, the workers of Bailin Tea Factory will immediately box up the tea and send it to the foreign trade trucks, and at the same time, bring the samples.

按照王奕森的介绍，当时是送给省茶叶公司两个样，省进出口公司两个样，省商品检验局两个样，省农业厅两个样，另外还有外贸局和外贸公司各一个样。

According to Wang Yisen's introduction, at that time was given to the provincial tea company two samples, the provincial import and export company two samples, the provincial commodity inspection bureau two samples, the provincial Department of Agriculture two samples, in addition to the Foreign Trade Bureau and foreign trade companies each a sample.

而这批样品，所有参加研制的负责人和专家都要看，包括时任福建省农业厅特产处处长的张天福。

The samples were shown to all the people in charge and experts who participated in the development, including Zhang Tianfu, who was the head of the Specialty Products Division of the Fujian Provincial Department of Agriculture at the time.

看完后专家们都表示认可。

After watching it the experts recognized it.

这批茶是正常销到香港的，而香港的惯例是要到端午节才开始销售。

This batch of tea is normally sold to Hong Kong, and it is customary in Hong Kong to not start selling until the Dragon Boat Festival.

让王奕森万万没想到的是，香港方面在当年农历四月底拆箱时，发现这批白茶已经全部变黄，只能全部退货。

What Wang Yisen did not expect is that the Hong Kong side at the end of the fourth lunar month in that year, when unpacking, found that the batch of white tea has all turned yellow, only to return all.

这一来导致外汇损失得很严重。

This has resulted in a significant loss of foreign exchange.

总之那次失败对所有人的打击都不小。

All in all, it was a big blow to all of us.

省里各相关部门分析失败的原因，每个经手的专家都要做分析检查，我还写了一份总结。

All relevant departments in the province analyzed the reasons for the failure, and each expert who handled the case had to make an analysis and examination, and I also wrote a summary.

当时感觉心理压力很大，害怕省里打来的电话。

At that time, I felt a lot of psychological pressure and was afraid ofthe phone call fromthe province.

这段经历让王奕森沉吟了一下。

This experiencemadeYi-SenWangponder for a while.

他想，即使失败了，完成国家任务也是第一使命。

Even if he fails, he thought, fulfilling the national mission is the first mission.

但从那时候开始，福建省的茶叶专家便开始更直接地指导白琳茶厂研制白茶新品种，时任福建省茶叶进出口公司技术专员的庄任，就带着白琳茶厂的茶师们认真研究课题。

But from that time onwards, the tea experts in Fujian Province began to guide Bailin Tea Factory more directly to develop new varieties of white tea, and Zhuang Ren, who was then the technical commissioner of Fujian Tea Import and Export Corporation, led the tea masters of Bailin Tea Factory to seriously study the subject.

而与此同时，张天福还亲自撰写了《福建白茶的调查研究》，整个报告对茶区一线的白茶生产，有重要的指导意义。

At the same time, Zhang Tianfu also personally wrote the "Fujian white tea research", the whole report on the front line of the tea production, white tea, has an important significance of guidance.

王奕森捧着这份调查研究，对其中有关技术生产的论述，读了一遍又一遍。

Wang Yisen held this research study and read the discourse on technical production over and over again.

而庄任也拿来一本书，对王奕森说：“王生，你拿去好好看。

And Zhuang Ren also brought a book and said to Wang Yisen, "Wang Sheng, take it and read it well.

王奕森一看封面，那是陈椽的《茶叶制造学》，他仔细研究起了其中的要点。

Wang Yisen look at the cover, that is Chen Rafael's "tea manufacturing", he carefully studied the main points.

这一年，王奕森被正式任命为福鼎白琳茶叶初制厂生产技术副厂长。

In this year, Wang Yisen was officially appointed as the deputy director of production technology of Fuding Bailin Tea Factory.

时间一晃就进入1968年的夏天。

The clock is ticking into the summer of 1968.

正值特殊年代，福建全省进行军事管制，福鼎县也成立革委会，各机关、单位和团体组织全部在进行政治学习，全县生产几乎瘫痪。

It was a special time whenthe whole province of Fujianwas under military control, and Fuding County had set up a Revolutionary Committee, and all organs, units and organizations were conducting political studies, which almost paralyzed the whole county's production.

就在这时候，负责福建省茶叶外贸工作的茶叶审评员刘典秋，从香港回来找到王奕森。

 At this time, responsible for the Fujian Province, the work of foreign trade in tea tea reviewer Liu Dianqiu, returned from Hong Kong to find Wang Yisen.

就在当时白琳茶厂的审评室，刘典秋看着王奕森的眼睛说：“现在福建省的低端白茶在香港的酒楼茶馆卖，很受台湾白茶冲击。

At the time of the Bai Lin Tea Factory's review room, Liu Dianqiulooked at WangYisen's eyes and said: "Now Fujian Province, the low-end white tea in Hong Kong's restaurants and teahouses to sell, very much affected by the impact of Taiwan's white tea.

人家都不要我们的货，导致福建白茶在港澳市场无法销售。

People do not want our goods, resulting in Fujian white tea not being sold in the Hong Kong and Macao markets.

你看怎么办？”他拿出随身携带的一个台湾白茶样品，给王奕森看，并提出意见和方案，要求试制样品。

What do you think?" He took out a Taiwan white tea samples with him, to Wang Yisen see, and put forward the views and programs, asked to try to make samples.

王奕森想了想，答应马上做。

Wang Yisen thought about it and promised to do it right away.

刘典秋回了福州，他给王奕森留下一句话：“要越快越好，能超过对方茶样的水平就更好。

Liu Dengqiu back to Fuzhou, he left a sentence to Wang Yisen: "to be as fast as possible, the better, can exceed the level of the other side of the tea samples is even better.

我们需要制造一批质高、价低的白茶来抢夺被台湾茶商占领的市场。

We need to create a batch of high quality, low price white tea to capture the market occupied by Taiwanese tea traders.

当时的白琳茶厂正受“文革”影响，生产陷于停顿阶段。

At that time, Bai Lin Tea Factory was affected by the "Cultural Revolution", production came to a standstill.

但作为生产班子负责人，王奕森接下任务就开始做。

But as head of the production team, Wang Yisen took on the task and started doing it.

在不到半个月的时间里，他带着工人连续试制数批白茶，经过纳优、排劣，精制成茶7箱，运抵省外贸茶叶公司再转运香港，给刘典秋布样，样品包装标号为“仿台白茶”。

In less than half a month's time, he led the workers continuous trial production of several batches of white tea, after the NaYou, row bad, refined into 7 boxes of tea, arrived in the province of foreign trade tea company and then transferred to Hong Kong, to LiuDianQiu cloth samples, samples of packaging labeled "imitation of Taiwan white tea".

同年8月下旬，福鼎县革命委员会成立了，县革委会生产组来文：“茶叶采摘将至，结束封园，希快速组织人力抢制‘仿台白茶’300担。

In late August of the same year, the Fuding County Revolutionary Committee was established, the County RevolutionaryCommitteeproduction group communication: "Tea picking will be coming, the end of the garden, the Hi-quick organization of manpower to grab the production of 'imitation Taiwan white tea' 300 quintals.

今后要把‘仿台’标号改为‘仿白’标号，一定要在国庆前抢制完成，不得延误。

In the future, the 'Imitation Taiwan' mark should be changed to 'Imitation White' mark, and the production must be completed before the National Day without delay.

王奕森接文后，立即与白琳周围的点头、磻溪、巽城各茶站联系，转告县革委会来文精神，同时张贴公告，要求广大茶农采摘荒山野茶，茶厂现金收购。

Wang Yisen received the text, and immediately contact with the white Lin around the nodding, Panxi, Xuncheng tea station, relaying the spirit of the county Revolutionary Committee communication, while posting notices, asking the majority of tea farmers picking wild tea, tea factory cash purchase.

消息传出后，福鼎茶农采摘茶叶的积极性空前高涨。

After the news spread, Fuding tea farmers picking tea enthusiasm is unprecedentedly high.

白琳茶厂最高峰时，日收购茶青达200多担。

At the peak of Bailin Tea Factory, the daily purchase of tea green amounted to more than 200 quintals.

王奕森带工人日夜抢制生产，最终在9月27日完成任务，将白茶调运至福建省外贸茶叶公司，再转运香港销售。

Wang Yisen with workers day and night rush production, and finally on September 27 to complete the task, the white tea transferto theFujian Provincial Foreign Trade Tea Company, and then transferred to Hong Kong for sale.

就在1969年春节过后，王奕森接到了一个令他终生难忘的好消息，刘典秋来信告诉他：“‘仿白白茶’经1968年试制、试产、试销，当年产销300担，今已断货脱销。

Just after the Spring Festival in 1969, Wang Yisen received a good news that he will never forget, Liu Dianqiu wrote to tell him: "'imitation white white tea' by the 1968 trial production, trial production, trial sales, production and sales of 300 quintals that year, has been cut off off the market.

目前是港澳茶楼首选茶类，深受消费者欢迎，台湾白茶已退出香港茶楼酒家，对此表示祝贺与感谢！”“我们努力了很多年，终于成功了。

Currently it is the preferred tea type in Hong Kong and Macau teahouses, popular among consumers, Taiwan White Tea has been withdrawn from Hong Kong teahouse restaurants, congratulations and thanks for this!" "We have worked hard for many years and finally succeeded.

谈及往事，王奕森还略有激动，但他也不无遗憾地说，“可惜当时一起并肩工作过的同志们，包括指导我们的技术专家庄任，大都去世了。

Talking about the past, Wang Yisen is still slightly excited, but he is not without regret, "Unfortunately, the comrades who worked side by side at that time, including the guidance of our technical experts Zhuang Ren, most of them passed away.

我到现在身体还不错，还能做茶，也带一些年轻人做茶。

I am still in good health to this day, and I can still make tea and take some young people to do so.

在几经波折后，由福建省自主研制成功的这款“新”白茶，在1969年改换“仿白”的标号，以“轻揉捻白茶”的商品命名，在全省茶叶会议中予以公告。

After several twists and turns,this "new" white tea developedby Fujian Provincewaschanged to "Imitation White" in 1969, and was named "Lightly Twisted White Tea", which wasat the. In 1969, this "new" white tea was changed to "imitation white" label, and was named "light twisted white tea", which was announced in the tea conference of the province.

此产品生产被列入外贸出口茶类生产任务，年产1000担，并与香港合记公司签订供销协议。

The production of this product is included in the task of export tea production, with an annual output of 1,000 quintals, and signed a supply and marketing agreement with Hong Kong Hutchison Company.

而白琳茶厂产制的“轻揉捻白茶”样、价，均由福鼎茶厂贯彻执行。

The white tea produced by Bai Lin Tea Factory "light twisting white tea" samples, prices, are carried out by the Fuding Tea Factory.

从此，白琳茶厂成为福建省茶叶进出口公司独家产制“轻揉捻白茶”的加工厂。

From then on, Bai Lin Tea Factory became the exclusive processing factory of Fujian Tea Import & Export Corporation to produce "Lightly Twisted White Tea".

再后来，由于目标市场的消费者对“轻揉捻”这一名称不理解，给销售人员的推销增添了难度。

Later on, the name "Lightly Twisted" was not understood by consumers in the target market, which made it more difficult for the sales force to promote the product.

为此，“轻揉捻白茶”正式更名为新工艺白茶，一直沿袭到今天。

For this reason, the "Lightly Twisted White Tea" was officially renamed as the New Craft White Tea, and has been carried on to this day.

新工艺白茶对鲜叶的原料要求和寿眉类似，原料嫩度要求相对较低，其制作工艺为萎凋、轻揉、干燥、拣剔、过筛、打堆、烘焙和装箱。

The raw material requirements for fresh leaves of the new white tea are similar to those of Shou Mei, with relatively low tenderness requirements, and its production process is withering, light kneading, drying, picking, sieving, stacking, baking and packing.

在初制时，原料鲜叶萎凋后，要迅速进行轻度揉捻，再经过干燥工艺，使其外形叶张略有缩摺，呈半卷条形，色泽暗绿略带褐色。

In the initial production, after the withering of the raw material fresh leaves, it should be quickly and lightly twisted, and then through the drying process, so that its appearance is slightly folded leaves, half-rolled strip, dark green and slightly brown color.

它的特点是清香味浓，汤色橙红；叶底展开后可见其色泽青灰带黄，筋脉带红；茶汤味似绿茶但无清香，又似红茶而无酵感，浓醇清甘又有闽北乌龙茶汤的“馥郁”感，但它的条索更紧结，茶汤味道更浓，汤色也更深沉。

It is characterized by strong fragrance, soup color orange-red; the leaf bottom can be seen after unfolding its color greenish gray with yellow, veins with red; tea soup taste like green tea, but no fragrance, and like black tea without fermentation, mellow and clear and sweet and Fujian oolong tea soup "rich" sense, but it is more tightly knotted rope, tea soup flavor is more intense, soup color is also more deep.

在新工艺白茶刚进入港澳市场的20世纪60年代，由于香港经济还没有起飞，白茶的主要销售市场是以大众酒楼茶餐厅为代表的低端市场。

Inthe 1960s, whennewwhitetea was first introduced into the Hong Kong and Macau markets, as the Hong Kong economy had not yet taken off, the main sales market for white tea was the low-end market represented by popular restaurants and cafes.

但是到了1970年以后，香港作为“亚洲四小龙”的代表，经济快速崛起，人们对茶叶消费提出了更高的要求。

However, after 1970, Hong Kong, as a representative of the "Four Little Dragons of Asia", saw a rapid rise in its economy, and people put forward a higher demand for tea consumption.

为此，白琳茶厂在1980年重新创制验收标准样，同时调整了调拨价格，在香气和滋味方面都超过了1968年试制的标准样，产品质量上了一个新台阶。

 To this end, Bailin Tea Factory in 1980 to re-create the acceptance of standard samples, while adjusting the price of allocation, in terms of aroma and flavor are more than the standard samples of the 1968 trial,product quality ona new level.

从此，新工艺白茶由专销茶楼、酒店的低档茶，变身为适合港澳市场多数消费者的商品茶，销量极大。

Since then, the new craft white tea has changed from a low-grade tea sold exclusively in teahouses and hotels to a commercial tea suitable for the majority of consumers in the Hong Kong and Macao markets, and the sales volume has been extremely large.

新工艺白茶的创始执行人王奕森，在20世纪80年代退休，他把白琳茶厂交给了比自己更年轻、更有想法的下一代，自己带着三个儿子办起了民营茶厂。

Wang Yisen, the founding executive of New Craft White Tea, retired in the 1980's. He left the Bailin Tea Factory in the hands of the next generation, who were younger and more thoughtful than himself, and set up a private tea factory with his three sons.

遇到本地的晚辈茶人来请教，他也会倾囊相授。

When he meets a local junior tea drinker who asks for advice, he will also teach him.

用他的话说，自己为茶活了一辈子，总是希望茶越做越好。

In his words, he has been living for tea all his life, and he always hopes that tea will get better and better.

唯一可惜的是，从1962年开始酝酿，在1968年问世，生产史达25年，产销量每年达4000多担，经过多年生产、研究、调整成长起来的新工艺白茶，在1993年时，因国营白琳茶厂响应国家经济转轨政策而宣告破产，从此结束了大批量的生产，但是在福鼎、政和、松溪的部分地区，时至今日，它还有一定的民间产量。

The only pity is that, from the brewing in 1962, came out in 1968, the production history of 25 years, production and sales of more than 4,000 quintals per year, after many years of production, research, adjustments to the growth of the new technology of white tea, in 1993, due to the state-run Bailin Tea Factory in response to the national economic transition policy and declared bankruptcy, and since then the end of the production of a large number of people, but in Fuding, Zhenghe, and part of the Songxi area, it still has a certain amount of folk production today. However, in some areas of Fuding, Zhenghe and Songxi, there is still a certain amount of private production to this day.

“没有人能够左右变化，唯有走在变化之前。

"No one can sway change; the only way to get ahead of it is to get ahead of it.

这是现代管理学家彼得德鲁克的一句名言，说明了当人身处在一个转型的时代时，唯有“变”才是永远不变的主题。

This is a famous quote from Peter Drucker, a modern management scholar, which illustrates that when people are in an era of transition, the only constant theme is "change".

具体就中国茶业的发展情况而言，若说20世纪八九十年代的中国，还充满机遇的话，那在进入2000年以后，整个行业的商品种类和商业格局已日臻成熟，对一个后来者而言，要在市场发力的难度就极大了。

 In terms of the development of China's tea industry, if the 1980s and 1990s were full of opportunities in China, then after the 2000s, the industry's merchandise and business patterns have matured, and it has become extremely difficult for a latecomer to make an impact in the market.

可偏偏就有人在这个时候入场，还偏偏选了一条针对茶叶源头的做茶道路，这又是为什么呢？春天的十三坪有机茶园位于山海之间的福鼎，它的春天是令人难忘的。

However, some people have entered the market at this time, and they have chosen to make tea at the source of the tea leaves. Thirteen Ping Organic Tea Garden in Spring Located in Fuding between the mountains and the sea, its spring is unforgettable.

我们就在春天里，走进了在福鼎市磻溪镇十三坪十分著名的有机茶园一“知青茶园”。

In the spring, we went into the very famous organic tea plantation "Zhiqing Tea Plantation" in Thirteen Ping, Panxi Town, Fuding City.

事实上，在进十三坪之前我曾翻阅了资料，了解了一些它的过去一磻溪本是著名的国家级生态乡镇，也是福建省重点产茶镇之一，全镇有70%以上的农业人口直接或间接受益于茶叶产业。

As a matter of fact, before entering Thirteen Ping, I had looked up some information about its past. Panxi is a famous national ecological township and one of the key tea-producing towns in Fujian Province, with more than 70% of the town's agricultural population directly or indirectly benefiting from the tea industry.

1958年，全国茶业现场交流会在磻溪镇召开，1959年到1960年，是国家的“大跃进”时期，为此磻溪公社发出了“再造万亩茶园”的号召，各大队利用山坡荒地共建造了两万多亩梯层式茶园。

In 1958,the NationalTea Industry Field Communication Meeting was held in Panxi Town. 1959 to 1960 was the "Great Leap Forward" period of the country, for which Panxi Commune issued the call of "recreating ten thousand mu of tea gardens", and the brigades built more than ten thousand mu of terraced tea gardens by utilizing the wasteland on the hillside. The brigades utilized the barren land on the mountain slopes to build more than 2,000 mu of terraced tea gardens.

1971年，磻溪公社组织了一场茶园建设“大会战”，在山湖岗十三坪新建了标准化茶园，茶园的种植和管理者均是当年上山下乡的知青。

In 1971, Panxi Commune organized a tea plantation construction "battle" and built a new standardized tea plantation in Shannhugang Thirteen Ping, where the plantation growers and administrators were all intellectuals who went to the countryside in those years.

“知青茶园”的开辟在当年是极其艰苦的。

The opening of the "Tea Garden for Young People" was extremely difficult in those days.

当时人们用了五年时间，经过一锄一锹、一担一筐的努力，硬是用一双手挖了两座山头、填平一个山谷，才形成了规格整齐的茶园。

At that time, people spent five years, through a hoe and a spade, a load and a basket of efforts, and dug up two hills and filled in a valley with one hand, and only then formed a neat specification of the tea plantation.

而那坪与坪之间的挡土墙，也是青年们搬运来石头，而后一块块亲手堆叠累积而成的。

The retaining wall between the ping pongs was also made by the youths who carried the stones and stacked them one by one by hand.

但在20世纪80年代后，由于知青们纷纷返城，便留下了这一望无垠的茶园，在数十年的时间里被人渐渐地淡忘，默默地抛荒。

However, after the 1980s, as the young intellectuals returned to the city one after another, they left behind this sprawling tea plantation, which has been gradually forgotten and silently deserted in the past decades.

直到有一天，一个美丽面孔的出现。

Until one day, a beautiful face appeared.

“其实在考察基地时，我们去过福鼎的各个乡镇，从管阳、点头到白琳一路过来，最后才来到磻溪。

"In fact, when we visited the base, we went to various townships in Fuding, from Guanyang, Nodou to Bailin, and finally came to Panxi.

也许是我与这片茶园有缘吧，虽然找到它纯属偶然，可是一上山后我就知道这次对了。

Maybe it was my destiny to find this tea plantation. Although I found it by chance, I knew I was right as soon as I went up the mountain.

陈颖说。

Chen Ying said.

我面前的陈颖，也就是这片2300亩的十三坪茶园现在的主人。

Chen Ying, the owner of the 2,300-acre Thirteen Ping Tea Plantation, is in front of me.

她在说到她与茶园的第一次邂逅时笑了起来：“这又是缘分又是挑战，因为那么大的一片山上没有路，当时几乎没人敢接手。

It was both fate and a challenge, because there were no roads on such a large piece of mountain, and almost no one dared to take it over at that time.

陈颖和她的“大沁白茶”，可算是近年来福鼎白茶业内快速崛起的一匹黑马，由于起点高、投入大，她常常和她的茶园成为各种头条的焦点。

Chen Ying and her "Daqin White Tea" can be regarded as the rapid rise of a dark horse in the Fuding white tea industry in recent years, due to the high starting point, large investment, she often and her tea plantation become the focus of various headlines.

和当地许多传统茶人不同的是，陈颖原本不曾种茶、涉茶。

Unlike many of the traditional tea drinkers in the region, Chen Ying did not originally grow tea, nor was he involved in tea.

在二十多年前，她和丈夫一起创办了国内化油器行业的龙头企业一福鼎市华益机电有限公司，并且到现在，这个企业都是工业领域的佼佼者。

More than twenty years ago, she and her husband founded one of the leading enterprises in the domestic carburetor industry, Fuding Huayi Mechanical & Electrical Co.

但是在她的心里，一直有一个茶叶梦，她说：“因为我出生在茶乡，从小喝着土陶罐里煮的白茶长大，即使在外上大学，最念念不忘的还是这杯茶。

But in her heart, there has always been a dream of tea, she said: "Because I was born in the tea country, grew up drinking white tea cooked in earthenware pots, even outside the university, the most unforgettable or this cup of tea.

所以就在女儿逐渐长大的过程中，我开始萌发做茶、做茶园，然后把它们当成传家宝留给下一代的想法，因为茶是能做一辈子的事情。

So as my daughter was growing up, I began to think about making tea, making tea gardens, and then passing them on to the next generation as heirlooms, because tea is something you can do for the rest of your life.

其实“大沁白茶”的“沁”字，正是陈颖女儿的名字。

In fact, the word "Qin" in "Da Qin White Tea" is the name of Chen Ying's daughter.

从2011年开始，陈颖用了5年时间，把她的品牌从默默无闻经营到小有名气，她付出了比常人更多的努力。

Starting from 2011, Chen Ying spent 5 years to bring her brand from obscurity to fame, she paid more efforts than others.

“要以工业化的管理要求来高标准地打造农业。

"It is important to build agriculture to a high standard with industrialized management requirements.

她说。

She said.

这是她一开始就确立的方向，可是怎么做，这实在考验一个做茶人的决心和信心。

This is the direction she established from the beginning, but how to do it, this is really a test of determination and confidence of a tea maker.

人说隔行如隔山，可是这个小巧秀丽的女人偏不信这一点，有多少次，丈夫问她还要不要坚持下去，她都义无反顾地说“我能行”。

It is said that a different profession is like a mountain, but this small and beautiful woman does not believe in this, how many times her husband asked her if she still wants to continue, she said "I can do it" without any hesitation.

做好茶的根本是茶园，尤其是生态茶园。

The root of good tea is tea plantations, especially ecological tea plantations.

那在一片连路都没有的抛荒茶园里，陈颖做些什么呢？首先是修路，无论是为了企业的生产和管理，还是为了附近村民的脱贫致富，这都是迫在眉睫的事情。

In a deserted tea plantation with no road, what did Chen Ying do? The first is to build roads, whether for the production and management of enterprises, or for the nearby villagers to get rich, this is an urgent matter.

“我们修建了从磻溪镇到山湖岗村到湖林村一共14.5公里的水泥公路，解决了这里的实际问题。

"We built a total of 14.5 kilometers of concrete road from Panxi Township to Shanhugang Village to Hulin Village to solve the practical problems here.

陈颖告诉我们，她前后投入了600多万元。

Chen Ying told us that she had invested more than 6 million dollars.

在茶山上修路，不但是大路，还包括通往茶园深处的每一条小路。

Build roads on the tea hills, not only the main roads, but also every path leading deep into the tea plantations.

因为她的理想是最终让所有人都受益。

Because her vision is to ultimately benefit everyone.

有了路以后，第二步就是建基地。

Once you have a road, the second step is to build a base.

为此陈颖花的心思就更多了。

For this reason Chen Ying put more thought into it.

看着几十年无人打理的荒草丛生的茶园，她想出了一个笨办法一全部用人工除草。

Looking at decades of unattended grassy tea plantations, she came up with a stupid way to manually weed all of them.

这些荒草极其顽固，她来来回回反复让人拔了几回才遏制下来，这一下又花了几百万。

These weeds were extremely stubborn, and she had them pulled up several times before they were contained, which cost her several million dollars.

有人无法理解她，也有人支持她，陈颖自己的总结是：“茶是食品，安全最重要，虽然全用人工费时费力效果也不明显，但为了以后这片土地上的茶，能够清透和甘甜，这些付出都是值得的。

Some people can't understand her, some people support her, Chen Ying's own summary is: "Tea is food, safety is the most important, although it is time-consuming and laborious to use all human labor and the effect is not obvious, but for the sake of the future of this land on the tea, to be clear and sweet, these expenses are worth it.

茶园的营养来自肥料，这谁都知道，但是对生态茶园来说，投入有机肥的成本之高，时常让人却步。

Tea garden nutrition from fertilizer, which everyone knows, but for ecological tea gardens, the high cost of organic fertilizer inputs, often discourage people.

对话中陈颖自己也说，这是中国茶叶目前最受关注的问题，对此企业只能正视。

During the conversation, Chen Ying himself said that this is the most concerned issue of Chinese tea, and enterprises can only face it squarely.

“我专门请教了专家，一开始我们将山东的羊粪拉回来先发酵几个月，再挖沟埋进土壤，这样没有二次污染。

"I specifically asked the experts, at first we will pull back the sheep manure in Shandong first fermented for a few months, and then dug trenches into the soil, so there is no secondary pollution.

后来我们又用的菜籽饼，因为它的渣营养成分很高。

Later we used canola cake because of its high nutrient content in the residue.

但成本也很高，甚至比羊粪还贵。

But it's also expensive, even more expensive than sheep manure.

陈颖说。

Chen Ying said.

就这样，仅仅2015年一年的时间，陈颖花掉的有机肥加人工费用，就达600万元。

In this way, only in 2015 a year, Chen Ying spent organic fertilizer plus labor costs, amounting to 6 million yuan.

有人惊呼她实在任性，简直是现代版的“愚公移山”，而她说，要留下一座可以传家的茶园，不能随随便便。

Some people exclaimed that she is really capricious, whichislike a modern version of "Yugong Yishan", but she said that she can't just leave a tea plantation that can be passed on to her family.

一年又一年过去了，原本寂寞的十三坪茶山越来越姹紫嫣红，原来是陈颖又花了几百万元，在茶园山间种植了万余棵山茶花、樱花、桂花、紫薇和桃树。

Year after year passed, the original lonely thirteen ping tea mountain more and more beautiful purple and red, it turned out to be Chen Ying and spent millions of dollars in the tea garden mountain planted more than 10,000 camellias, cherry blossoms, osmanthus, yew and peach trees.

她的想法是，在茶季，到茶园来观光的客人，不但可以自己采茶，还可以现场制茶和品茶。

Her idea is that during the tea season, visitors to the tea plantation can not only pick their own tea, but also make and taste tea on site.

这里还有全方位无死角、高清、透雾的茶园环境监测系统，任何人在全球任何一个地方，只要下载了远程监控系统，就能看到这座茶园的实时状况，实现对茶园管理的全程监控。

 There is also a full range of dead-angle, high-definition, fog permeable tea plantation environment monitoring system, anyone in any part of the world, as long as the download of the remote monitoring system, you can see the real-time status of the tea plantation, to achieve thewhole processofmonitoringthe management of the tea plantation.

“哪怕是一滴露珠，也能看得清清楚楚。

"Even a drop of dew can be seen clearly.

陈颖笑着说。

Chen Ying said with a smile.

磻溪是国家级生态乡镇，更是福鼎白茶的生产重镇，但是一直缺乏一个像样的茶叶市场，过去茶农们要卖茶青必须赶到位于点头镇的茶花交易市场，这在繁忙的春季非常浪费时间，对茶青的质量也有影响。

Panxi is a national ecological township and a major town for the production of Fuding white tea, but it has always lacked a decent tea market. In the past, tea growers had to rush to the Camellia market in Nodou Township to sell their tea, which was a great waste of time in the busy spring, and had an impact on the quality of the tea.

陈颖看到了这一点，就在磻溪镇双溪西路上投资建设了面积3000多平方米的茶青交易市场，解决了附近的茶青交易问题。

Seeing this, Chen Ying invested in the construction of a tea green market with an area of more than 3,000 square meters on Shuangxi West Road in Panxi Town, which solved the problem of tea green trading in the vicinity.

而她说，等明年正式开市后，自己位于山间的工厂也能开足马力生产。

And, she says, when the market officially opens next year, her own factory in the mountains will be able to produce at full capacity.

“我的计划就是将茶园与茶厂无缝对接，让茶青在最好的状态进入生产环节。

"My plan is to seamlessly connect the tea gardens to the tea factories, so that the tea green can enter the production process in the best condition.

她的表情非常认真。

The look on her face was very serious.

在“大沁”占地100亩的工厂厂区内，所有的设施建设刚刚完成一期。

In the "Daqin" covers an area of 100 acres of plant factory, all the facilities construction has just completed a phase.

可以说，这里无论是高标准的自动化生产线、日光萎凋房，还是全实木、温湿控制的专业大型茶仓，在福鼎都是首屈一指，其投入也是惊人的。

Itcan be said that whether it is the high-standard automated production line, sunlight withering room, or all solid wood, temperature and humidity controlled professional large-scale tea warehouses, in Fuding are second to none, and its investment is also amazing.

可是陈颖还觉得不够，她的心里烧着更明亮的一团火，她说：“我曾经白手起家，从一台打磨机开始做到现在有一千多名员工，靠的就是福鼎人能吃苦的精神。

But Chen Ying does not think it is enough, her heart burns a brighter fire, she said: "I once started from nothing, from a grinding machine to now have more than 1,000 employees, relying on the Fuding people can endure the spirit of hard work.

如今有了这片茶园，我更没有后退的道理。

Now that I have this tea plantation, there is no turning back.

因为农业是要做一辈子的事，我要看得长远。

Because agriculture is something you do for the rest of your life, I have to look at the long term.

她还在一心一意地修筑着自己理想中的“世外桃源”，打造一个中国茶叶的梦一从脚下的茶园开始，实现白茶的自然生态，让每一片茶叶有更强的生命力和更理想的生长环境。

She is still single-mindedly building her own ideal "paradise", to create a dream of Chinese tea - starting from the tea plantation under her feet, to realize the natural ecology of white tea, so that each piece of tea has a stronger vitality and a more ideal growing environment.

一切都存在，同时又不存在，因为一切都在流动，都在不断地变化，不断地产生和消失。

Everything exists and does not exist at the same time, because everything flows, changes, arises and disappears.

早在两千多年前，古希腊哲学家赫拉克利特就对世界的转化提出了以上观点。

More than two thousand years ago, the ancient Greek philosopher Heraclitus made the above point about the transformation of the world.

因为从客观上来说，万物是永恒地运动、变化和发展的。

Because objectively speaking, everything is in perpetual motion, change and development.

我们身处的时代、社会、地点，都遵循着这种朴素而真实的原理。

Our times, societies and places follow this simple but true principle.

我们在政和的采访工作安排得紧锣密鼓，几天的时间，就和制作政和白茶的几位非物质文化遗产传承人和手艺人有了深入交流。

Our interviews in Zhenghe were organized in a tight schedule, and within a few days, we had in-depth exchanges with several intangible cultural heritage inheritors and craftsmen who make Zhenghe white tea.

而令我略感吃惊又有些喜出望外的是，他们中的余步贵、杨丰、刘际浩和黄礼灼全部出生于1970年后，其中最年轻的黄礼灼，更是75后。

What surprised and delighted me was that among them, YU Bugui, YANG Feng, LIU Jihao and HUANG Lizhuo were allborn after 1970, and the youngest of them, HUANG Lizhuo, was even born after 75.

而这些70后与茶的第一次交集，大都从他们少年时就开始了。

And most of these post-70s' first interactions with tea began when they were teenagers.

“原来在计划经济时代，这里就是石屯茶叶精制厂，我们是20世纪80年代成立的私营企业，原来是以政和县茶厂为中心，每个乡镇允许成立一家茶叶精制厂。

"Originally, in the planned economy era,thisis Shitun Tea Refinery, we were established in the 1980s as a private enterprise, originally centered on the Zhenghe County Tea Factory, each township was allowed to set up a tea refinery.

石屯是茉莉花产区，我父亲做茉莉花茶的茶坯，供应给县茶厂做茉莉花茶。

Shitun is a jasmine producing area, and my father made jasmine tea blanks and supplied them to the county tea factory to make jasmine tea.

我印象里，从1988年开始，一直到1993年，我们公司都是在做茉莉花茶。

As far as I remember, from 1988 until 1993, our company was making jasmine tea.

身材偏胖的黄礼灼，高个、圆脸，他回忆中的自己，从读初中开始，就每天到市场上去负责收购茉莉花，然后再到福州收购玉兰花，还会通过对香港的茶叶销售获得一些港币，好去福州炒外汇，“当时市场流通放开了，但货币兑换还没有那么自由，我们做个体经营的有时要通过‘黑市’换钱。

The chubby Huang Lizhuo, tall, round face, his memories of himself, from junior high school, every day to the market in charge of acquiring jasmine flowers, and then go to Fuzhou to buy magnolia flowers, but also through the sale of tea in Hong Kong to get some Hong Kong dollars, so that they can go to Fuzhou to speculate on foreign exchange, "when the market circulation liberalization, but the currency exchange is not so free, we do self-employment of the Sometimes we had to exchange money through the 'black market'.

被黄礼灼提到的政和县茶厂，与刘际浩的成长密不可分，因为刘际浩的父亲刘开林，曾经是政和县茶厂厂长，他从1964年进厂到1993年政和茶厂倒闭，见证了国营经济从发展壮大、如日中天到日渐衰落的整个过程。

Huang Lizhuo mentioned Zhenghe County Tea Factory, and Liu Jihao's growth is inextricably linked, because Liu Jihao's father, Liu Kailin, used to be the director of the Zhenghe County Tea Factory, he went into the factory from 1964 to the closure of the Zhenghe Tea Factory in 1993, witnessed the whole process of the state-run economy from the development of growth and development, such as the days of the decline of the decline of the whole process.

刘际浩说：“我从小就看我父亲安排厂里的生产。

I grew up watching my father organize the factory's production," Liu Jihao said.

在计划经济时代，我们这边还要去浙江调茶叶，比如金华，因为政和茶厂一年要做40000担花茶，但自己原料不够，就要到外面调。

In the planned economy era, we had to go to Zhejiang to transfer tea leaves, such as Jinhua, because the Zhenghe Tea Factory had to make 40 000 quintals of flower tea a year, but it did not have enough raw materials of its own, so it had to transfer them outside.

当时茶厂生产都是由省茶叶公司统一安排调拨的。

At that time, the production of tea factories are unified by the provincial tea company to arrange the allocation.

在当地文献资料的描述中，新中国成立后福建省成立最早的国营茶厂是1950年设的福州茶厂，同年，福安茶厂和福鼎茶厂也成立了。

 In thedescription of the local literature, the earliest state-run tea factory established in Fujian Province after the founding of New China was the Fuzhou Tea Factory set up in 1950, and in the same year, Fu'an Tea Factory and Fuding Tea Factory were also established.

政和茶厂是1952年成立的，前身是当地的个体作坊，新厂房到1954年才正式落成。

Zhenghe Tea Factory was established in 1952, formerly a local individual workshop, and the new factory building was not officially completed until 1954.

在当年地区级茶厂的任务规划中，直到1960年以前都是福安茶厂做总厂，福鼎和政和两地茶厂做分厂，所生产的福建省三大工夫红茶归在一起，最后精制完了交给总厂。

In that year, the task of the regional tea factory planning, until 1960 before the Fuan tea factory to do the main plant, Fuding and Zhenghe two tea factories to do the branch, the production of Fujian Province, the three major work of black tea together, and finally refined to the main plant.

由于在20世纪60年代以前，国内的红茶全部销往苏联。

Because until the 1960s, all domestic black tea was sold to the Soviet Union.

而在中苏关系突然变化之后，中国红茶面临着销售困难。

After the sudden change in Sino-Soviet relations, Chinese black tea faced difficulties in selling.

所以最后政和茶厂就主营茉莉花茶。

So in the end, the Zhenghe Tea Factory specializes in jasmine tea.

“再后来就到了80年代，茶叶生产销售放开了，茶厂就不行了。

"Then later on it was the 1980s, when tea production and sales were liberalized, and the tea factories were not working.

面临市场竞争，政和茶厂在1993年陷入停产，到1999年彻底倒闭，茶厂工人全部下岗。

Facing competition in the market, Zhenghe Tea Factory was shut down in 1993 and completely closed down in 1999, with all the tea factory workers laid off.

刘际浩说，“我当年从安徽农业大学毕业后，在1992年到1993年间，也在老茶厂待了一年，眼看茶厂确实撑不下去，于是从1993年开始我自己办厂。

Liu Jihao said, "I graduated from Anhui Agricultural University, in 1992 to 1993, but also in the old tea factory to stay a year, see the tea factory really can not hold out, so from 1993 onwards I run my own factory.

在政和当地，计划经济时代有过两大茶厂，除了在1952年成立的政和县茶厂，还有在1958年创建的国营稻香茶场。

 In the local Zhenghe, there have been two major tea factories in the planned economy era, in addition to the Zhenghe County Tea Factory established in 1952, and the state-run Taoxiang Tea Farm created in 1958.

这是一家隶属于国营农垦系统的企业，余步贵曾是稻香茶场的职工。

Yu Bugui was a former employee of the Taoxiang Tea Farm, anenterprisebelonging to the state-run agricultural reclamation system.

“我是受伯父的影响，在初中毕业那年，也就是从1986年开始，到茶场学习茶叶生产加工，直到1992年3月才正式成为稻香茶场的职工，到现在我一直都没离开过。

"I was influenced by my uncle, the year I graduated from junior high school, that is, from 1986, to the tea plant to learn tea production and processing, until March 1992 to officially become a rice tea plant employees, and now I have never left.

几个人当中最不善言辞的余步贵，从进茶场开始就学做政和白茶，和茶叶打了二十多年交道。

Yu Bugui, the most inarticulate of the group, has been learning to make Zhenghe white tea since he joined the tea farm, and has been dealing with tea for more than twenty years.

他告诉我们，当年因为稻香茶场是一家以外销为主的企业，所以主要就是做花茶和白茶。

He told us that back then, because the Taoxiang Tea Farm was an export-oriented enterprise, it mainly made flower tea and white tea.

而当时因为国家的管控，政和白茶不能直接销往它的主要目标市场港澳地区和东南亚，所有的白茶只能通过福建省茶叶进出口公司销售。

At that time, because of state control, Zhenghe white tea can not be sold directly to its main target market of Hong Kong, Macao and Southeast Asia, all the white tea can only be sold through the Fujian Tea Import and Export Corporation.

“稻香茶场的国有经营方式一直持续到1999年，从2000年开始才采用承包经营模式。

"The state-owned operation of the Tao Heung Tea Farm continued until 1999, and only since 2000 has it been operating on a contractual basis.

那年，我承包了茶叶加工厂，独立经营。

That year, I contracted a tea processing plant and operated it independently.

余步贵说。

Yu Bugui said.

2003年时，稻香茶场正式改制，出于对老茶场的感情以及对茶叶的兴趣，余步贵联合另外两位老职工组建了“稻香茶叶有限公司”。

In 2003, the formal restructuring of the Taoxiang Tea Farm, out of affection for the old tea farm and interest in tea, Yu Bugui, together with two other old workers to form the "Taoxiang Tea Co.

在2006年之后，他们除了做外销市场，也打开了相对固定的内销市场。

After 2006, in addition to the export market, they also opened up a relatively stable domestic market.

90年代初期是政和茶业的一个分水岭。

The early 90s was a watershed moment for the Zhenghe tea industry.

1993年，22岁的杨丰也挂出了自己的第一块招牌“鑫隆茶厂”。

In 1993, at the age of 22, Yang Feng also hung out his first signboard "Xinlong Tea Factory".

他的父亲曾管理着一座老茶厂，使他从小就结下茶缘，他的姐姐和姐夫又都是政和县茶厂技术车间的工人，早在20世纪90年代初他们就下海，带动了当时正年轻的杨丰创业。

His father had managed an old tea factory, so he grew up with tea, his sister and brother-in-law are Zhenghe County Tea Factory technical workshop workers, as early as the early 1990s they went to sea, bringing the then young Yang Feng business.

“一开始考虑生存，我主要做茉莉花茶和绿茶，因为政和是茉莉花之乡，90年代的中国茶叶市场又以绿茶为主。

"In the beginning, I considered survival, I mainly do jasmine tea and green tea, because Zhenghe is the hometown of jasmine, and the Chinese tea market in the 1990s was dominated by green tea.

红茶和白茶在当时都是兼带生产的，白茶一开始的销售也还是通过外贸系统。

Black tea and white tea were both produced at the time, and white tea was initially sold through the foreign trade system.

在政和所有的本土茶人中，杨丰在社会上的名气最大，因为他对茶技术和茶文化的研究都颇有心得，并且数十年如一日地推广地方名茶。

Among all the local tea men in Zhenghe, Yang Feng is the most famous in the society, because he is very knowledgeable about tea technology and tea culture, and he has been promoting local famous tea for decades.

尤其特别的是，他还有收藏民间地方志和各种茶叶样本的爱好，他自豪地说自己拥有从20世纪50年代开始一直到现在都不间断的白茶样本，都是当年各国营单位的留样。

In particular, he also has a hobby of collecting folklore and various tea samples, and he is proud to say that he has a continuous collection of white tea samples from the 1950s to the present day, all of which aresamples from various national camping units in those years.

现如今杨丰的“隆合茶业”，已是一处集生产加工、文化展示、体验教学为一体的茶文化博物馆。

Now Yang Feng's "Longhe Tea Industry", has been a production and processing, cultural display, experience teaching as one of the tea culture museum.

清末时期，政和白茶有过一段相当辉煌的历史；计划经济时代，政和白茶和福鼎白茶以及建阳、松溪等地的白茶一样，统归国家外贸销往国外市场；而在2005年以后，由于福鼎白茶一骑绝尘，打开了中国内销市场这个口子，从此带动了福建各地的中国白茶市场。

At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Zhenghe White Tea had a rather brilliant history; in the planned economy era, Zhenghe White Tea and Fuding White Tea, as well as Jianyang, Songxi and other places of White Tea, collectively belong to the national foreign trade sales to foreign markets; and after 2005, due to the Fuding White Tea rode to the forefront, opened up China's domestic market this mouth, and from then on drove the Chinese White Tea market in all parts of Fujian.

可是在白茶复兴的过程当中，身处传统与市场交锋中的茶人们，也面对着各种问题。

However, in the process of white tea revival, in the tradition and the market in the tea people, but also faced with a variety of problems.

杨丰说，对制政和白茶的传统，据他观察，在民间自己做茶晾青的老百姓，还占了相当部分，尤其是铁山、东平和石屯这一带的茶农都这么做。

Yang Feng said, on the production of Zhenghe white tea tradition, according to his observation, in the private sector to do their own tea drying green people, but also accounted for a considerable part of the tea farmers, especially in the area of Tieshan, Dongping and Shitun are doing so.

因为当地民众一直以来很少接受外围市场环境和思路的影响，也不刻意追求产量，而是根据老传统和经验做茶，基本上就是靠天吃饭。

Because the local people have always been little affected by the external market environment and thinking, and do not deliberately pursue production, but according to the old traditions and experience in tea, basically rely on the sky to eat.

而他的茶厂生产，是一分为二的实践一整个工艺流程都按照传统方式，而整个工厂环境更符合设计要求，做到科学衔接和生产优化。

His tea factory production, however, is divided into two practices: one is the entire process flow in accordance with the traditional way, while the entire factory environment is more in line with the design requirements, to achieve scientific convergence and production optimization.

用杨丰的话说就是：“严守传统，坚持标准。

 In Yang Feng's words, "Strictly adhere to the tradition, adhere to the standard.

“举一个例子，对空间的运用，我是把最具政和特色的廊桥搬进了生产场地。

"As an example, for the use of space, I am moving the corridor bridge, which is the most characteristic of Zhenghe, into the production site.

为什么？因为政和廊桥以前叫风雨桥，人走过时一边通风一边还可以挡雨，那同理推证，我用传统工艺结合环境的优化来做茶，容易事半功倍。

Why? Because Zhenghe corridor bridge used to be called the wind and rain bridge, people walk through the ventilation on the one hand, but also can block the rain, so the same reasoning, I use the traditional craft combined with the optimization of the environment to make tea, easy to get twice the result with half the effort.

杨丰解释道，由于政和白茶的萎凋属于复式萎凋，就他的生产量来说，如果要让工人一个筛子一个筛子地推出去晒，工厂就有12000个晾茶筛，没有摊放场地。

Yang Feng explains that because the withering of Zhenghe white tea is compound withering, in terms of his production volume, if he wants workers to put out one sieve after another to dry in the sun, there are 12,000 drying sieves in the factory, and there is no space for staging.

那根据茶叶的状况，该室内萎凋的就在廊桥内摊晾，该日光萎凋的在室外摊晾，结合起来就是复式萎凋，然后进行干燥处理，无论是晒干还是用炭火烘干，用传统工艺都能完成。

According to the condition of the tea leaves, those that should be withered indoors will be spread out in the corridor bridge, and those that should be withered in daylight will be spread out outdoors, which is a combination of double withering, and then drying treatment, whether it is drying in the sun or drying with charcoal fire, can be completed by the traditional craft.

味道，是嗅觉到味觉的一场曼妙旅程。

Flavor, a delicate journey from smell to taste.

口感，是一切曼妙的源头。

Mouthfeel, the source of all that is Mannish.

茶水，没有花，闻起来却有淡淡的花香；没有糖，喝起来却是甜的；不舒服时喝一杯，会使肠胃舒服；烦躁时闻了茶香，心情也会变得舒畅。

Tea, no flowers, smell but have a light fragrance of flowers; no sugar, but drink it is sweet; uncomfortable when drinking a cup, will make the stomach comfortable; irritable when the smell of tea, the mood will become soothing.

茶水，就是如此神奇的饮品。

Tea, is such an amazing drink.

2001年，我作为制片人创办了一档日播栏目《华夏文明》，其中有一集为《普洱茶的故事》。

In 2001, as a producer, I started a daily program called "Chinese Civilization", one of the episodes of which was "The Story of Pu'er Tea".

因为拍摄需求，我第一次走进风景如画的茶园，第一次深入接触到茶叶背后的故事，第一次了解了茶的丰富内涵。

Because of the shooting demand, I entered the picturesque tea garden for the first time, the first in-depth contact with the story behind the tea, the first time to understand the rich connotation of tea.

我惊讶于茶叶的神奇，并自此与茶结缘。

I was amazed by the wonders of tea and I have been in love with tea ever since.

十几年后，我作为制片人与江苏卫视联合出品大型人文纪录片《茶界中国》，这让我有机会与茶再续前缘。

Ten years later, as a producer, I co-produced the large-scale humanistic documentary "Tea China" with Jiangsu TV, which gave me the opportunity to renew my relationship with tea.

在整个《茶界中国》的前期策划过程中，我们用了8个月的时间梳理关于茶的知识。

Throughout the pre-planning process of Tea World China, we spent eight months combing through knowledge about tea.

茶叶本身的维度比较多：有历史文化的概念，有原产地农作物的概念，有中国传统手工制茶者工匠精神的概念；有精神追求层面的概念，还有对世界影响的概念。

 Tea itself has many dimensions: the concept of history and culture, the concept of the crop of origin, the concept of the craftsmanship of the traditional Chinese handmade tea maker; the concept of the spiritual quest, and the concept of the impact on the world.

那么，从哪个维度入手去拍摄《茶界中国》？这是我们经常陷入的僵局。

So, which dimension should we start from to shoot "Tea China"? That's the impasse we often find ourselves in.

后来，经过大量的理论学习和到各地茶园的实践调研之后，我们决定回归到茶最本真的状态，也就是回归一个最基本的概念：茶，就是饮品！

Later, after a lot of theoretical studies and practical research in tea gardens around the world, we decided to return to the true state of tea, that is, to return to the most basic concept: tea is a beverage!

这就是纪录片《茶界中国》核心概念的由来——来自原产地的口感追随。

That's where the core concept of the documentary "Tea World China" comes from - a taste following from the place of origin.

一片树叶来自深山，经历九死一生，遇水涅槃后再次绽放。

A leaf comes from the mountains, undergoes nine deaths, meets the water nirvana and blooms again.

茶叶经过历史的变迁和时代的洗礼后，正从容不迫的展示着它本真的魅力。

Tea, after the changes of history and the baptism of time, is showing its true charm with ease.

对于饮料来说，首先是要好喝，适口为珍。

For beverages, the first thing is to be good and palatable as a treasure.

《茶界中国》尝试把视角转换成口感的体验，把纪录片中的主角定位于茶叶，通过茶叶目前在全世界的变化，以及当下人们是如何做茶、饮茶为切入点开始讲述茶的故事。

Tea China attempts to shift the perspective to the taste experience by focusing on tea as the main character in the documentary, and begins to tell the story of tea through the current changes in tea around the world, and how people make and drink tea today.

在拍摄的过程中，我们发现了一些知识性的内容，所以在纪录片中加入了识茶、泡茶、鉴茶等常识性介绍，但由于受到纪录片篇幅的限制，这方面内容无法详尽描述。

In the process of filming, we found some intellectual content, so we added general knowledge of tea, tea brewing, tea appreciation and other general knowledge in the documentary, but due to the limitations of the length of the documentary, this aspect could not be depicted in detail.

这本同名书籍将弥补这个遗憾，以更加丰富的内容来弥补影像叙述的不全、不足之处。

This book of the same name will make up for this by providing more content to compensate for the incompleteness and inadequacy of the visual narratives.

“源于纪录片，而不止于纪录片”这是我们的在图书策划时的初衷，希望通过这本书继续和爱茶人士分享有关茶的方方面面。

"This was our original intention when planning the book, and we hope to continue to share all aspects of tea with tea lovers through this book.

现在，我们正在筹备《茶界中国》（第二季），2018年将以全新的方式展示出茶叶给人们的美好生活带来的积极影响。